Drafting a Women’s Jacket
Using your oaktag torso sloper, we will teach how to draft a women’s princess seam jacket. You will learn where to add the necessary jacket ease, how to shape the pattern, how to extract the princess panels and then how to draft a notch collar, lapel and facing.
To draft your suit sleeve, either view our lesson on how to Draft a Suit Sleeve from Measurements or our lessons on Converting a Fitted Sleeve to a Suit Sleeve and then how to Convert a Suit Sleeve to a Two-Piece Suit Sleeve.
Our jacket construction techniques lesson will guide you through the finer points of sewing a tailored jacket.
The torso sloper used for this lesson can be found and drafted in our lesson Convert Bodice Sloper to Fitted Torso Sloper.
For additional jacket lessons view: Mounting & Fitting A Suit Jacket Sleeve, Drafting A Kimono Bodice With Gusset, Drafting A Portrait Collar Jacket and Drafting A Shawl Collar & Variations.
| Module | Description | Step |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Lesson Prep | 1-3 |
| 2 | Adding Jacket Ease | 1-6 |
| 3 | Drafting the Princess Panels | 1-9 |
| 4 | Tracing & Extracting the Front Panel | 1-4 |
| 5 | Front Extension, Breakpoint & Roll Line | 1-6 |
| 6 | Under Collar, Front Facing & Sleeve | 1-4 |
MODULE 1 • Lesson Prep
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| 1 | For this lesson, you will need your front and back torso sloper. |
| 2 | For the jacket draft, you will need a piece of unlined white pattern paper measuring 29” (73.7cm) wide by 36” (91.4cm) long. |
| 3 | I have traced off my front and back slopers, leaving about a 4” (10.2cm) space between the piece, and enough distance from the top for my collar which is about 9” (22.9cm). |
To see the full transcript and complete video lesson, subscribe to the University of Fashion!
© 2008-2018 University of Fashion® – - Transcript for use with University of Fashion lessons only and not authorized for download or distribution