Drafting A Kimono Bodice with Gusset
Learn how to draft a kimono bodice with a gusset. In this lesson will teach you how to draft a kimono bodice foundation and then how to add a gusset insert. This style can be used to create blouses, dresses, jackets and coats.
The front bodice sloper you will need for this lesson can be found and drafted in our lesson Pivoting a Front Shoulder Dart to One Waist Dart. The back bodice sloper you will need for this lesson can be found and drafted in our lesson Drafting a Shoulder Dart Bodice from Measurements and the fitted sleeve sloper that you will need for this lesson can be found and drafted in our lesson Fitted Sleeve from Straight Sleeve Sloper.
For more on drafting stylized collars and jackets view: Drafting A Portrait Collar Jacket, Drafting A Shawl Collar & Variations and Drafting A Women’s Jacket.
| Module | Description | Step |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Lesson Prep | 1-4 |
| 2 | Front Bodice Dart Distribution | 1-9 |
| 3 | Back Bodice Dart Distribution | 1-5 |
| 4 | Preparing the Gusset Slit | 1-6 |
| 5 | Joining the Front & Back Bodice to the Sleeve | 1-2 |
| 6 | Drafting the Gusset | 1-4 |
| 7 | Shaping the Shoulder/Sleeve | 1-2 |
| 8 | Planning the Gusset Opening | 1-12 |
| 9 | Adding Seam Allowances | 1-6 |
MODULE 1 • Lesson Prep
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| 1 | To begin this lesson, trace-off your fitted sleeve sloper onto pattern paper. |
| 2 | Next, reduce the lower leg of the elbow dart intake by ¼” (6mm) and connect it to the dart’s vanishing point. |
| 3 | Shorten the back underarm seam by ¼” (6mm) then redraw the wrist line. |
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