Suit Sleeve From Measurements
This lesson will teach you how to draft a jacket suit sleeve from measurements taken either from the arm of your dress form or from actual body measurements. You’ll begin by downloading our Sleeve Measurement Chart so that you can easily record your extracted armhole measurements. Once you have learned which measurements to take and the required ease to add, you will begin the suit sleeve drafting process. You will learn how to shape the cap and how to draft a sleeve elbow dart and finally how to turn your draft into a finished pattern.
| For this lesson you will need the muslin suit jacket that you draped in our Draping lesson: Jacket Draft & Drape. |
| Module | Description | Step |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Attaching and Measuring Sleeve | 1-9 |
| 2 | Measuring Pattern Armhole | 1-4 |
| 3 | Drafting the Suit Sleeve | 1-7 |
| 4 | Sleeve Cap Prep | 1-5 |
| 5 | Sleeve Cap & Sleeve Inseam | 1-6 |
| 6 | Sleeve Dart | 1-7 |
| 7 | Transfer Sleeve Draft | 1-7 |
| 8 | Final Steps | 1-6 |
MODULE 1 • Attaching and Measuring Sleeve
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| 1 | For this lesson, you will need a sleeve arm for your size dress form, or if measuring the human form, the measurements for the arm length and elbow, which are taken with the arm at a 90˚ angle with the hand on the hip. You will also need your jacket toile, pressed and transferred to a paper pattern with all of the notches and grainlines noted on each the pattern pieces. Download our Sleeve Measurement Chart and to convert your measurements, you can refer to our Fractions to Decimals Chart. |
| 2 | We will begin, by attaching the sleeve arm to the dress form, as demonstrated. Our sleeve arm has been fashioned with a piece of woven tape affixed to the top of the sleeve cap with a toggle on the end of the tape, so that we can mount the sleeve to the dress form’s armhole and secure the sleeve in place with pins. Some dress forms come with a detachable arm that conveniently mounts into the sleeve plate. |
| 3 | Once you have secured the arm to the dress form, find the position of the elbow, that is where the arm bends. Place style tape around the elbow circumference. |
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