OUR ONCE YEARLY HOLIDAY SPECIAL IS HERE!

- - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Education, Fashion Events, Holiday Gift Subscription

 

At last! Our Once Yearly Holiday Special is Here

From now until December 31, 2023, you will be able to get $40 off a yearly subscription to University of Fashion’s 500+ fashion education video lessons

What was $189 for a yearly, is now $149.                        At checkout use promo code: BEST

We’re also offering $10 off a monthly subscription (1st month only).

What was $19.95 for a monthly (recurring billing) is now $9.95 for the first month.                At checkout use promo code: BETTER

UoF promo codes for yearly at $149 was $189 and monthly was $9.95 monthly (recurring billing) was $19.95

 

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CELEBRATING NATIONAL NATIVE HERITAGE MONTH

- - Current Topics in Fashion

Looks from B. Yellowtail. (Photo Credit: American Craft Council)

As November unfurls its autumnal tapestry, we find ourselves immersed in the rich hues of National Native Heritage Month—a time to celebrate and honor the diverse cultures, histories, and contributions of Native American peoples. This month offers an opportunity not only to delve into the vibrant traditions of indigenous communities, but also to reflect on the complex relationship between fashion and cultural appropriation.

For decades, the fashion industry has drawn inspiration from indigenous designs, textiles, and embroideries. Renowned designers such as Ralph Lauren and Isabel Marant have woven the intricate threads of Native American aesthetics into their collections, creating garments that pay homage to the beauty of indigenous cultures. The allure of tribal patterns, beading techniques, and earthy color palettes has undeniably left an indelible mark on the world of haute couture.

Ralph Lauren built an empire on his vision of ‘Americana’. Not only have his  collections included the American flag, but throughout the years he has incorporated elements inspired by Native American dress. From Navajo prints to fringe details reminiscent of traditional Native attire, his collections have been a testament to the timeless beauty of indigenous craftsmanship. Similarly, Isabel Marant, a French fashion luminary, has skillfully blended bohemian chic with Native American influences, creating pieces that resonate with a global audience.

A Ralph Lauren Native American inspired look from 1981. Photo Credit: Ralph Lauren)

However, as the fashion industry navigates the complex waters of cultural sensitivity, a spotlight is being cast on the issue of cultural appropriation. What was once seen as homage, is now under scrutiny, prompting a shift in perspective. The borrowing of elements from Native American cultures has given rise to an “appropriation” uproar, challenging the industry to reassess its practices.

In recent years, discussions surrounding cultural appropriation have gained momentum, urging designers to reconsider their approach to incorporating indigenous motifs. The line between ‘appreciation’ and ‘appropriation’ has become increasingly blurred, prompting a call for greater respect and understanding. Native communities argue that using sacred symbols, traditional patterns, or religious attire without context or proper acknowledgment perpetuates harmful stereotypes and commodifies their heritage.

As fashion enthusiasts, it’s crucial to engage in conversations about cultural sensitivity and the impact of our clothing choices. Designers are now encouraged to collaborate with indigenous artists and craftspeople, ensuring that the cultural context is preserved and respected. The emphasis is shifting towards appreciation rather than appropriation, promoting a more inclusive and respectful approach to fashion that celebrates diversity without erasing the roots of inspiration.

National Native Heritage Month serves as a poignant reminder to celebrate and learn from indigenous cultures rather than commodify them. While fashion has been a powerful medium for cultural expression, the industry is evolving towards a more conscious and respectful future—one that honors the rich tapestry of traditions without unraveling the fabric of cultural identity. As we admire the beauty of Native American influences in fashion, let us do so with open hearts, listening to the voices of those whose heritage we celebrate and ensuring that our appreciation is a bridge rather than a barrier.

WEAVING TRADITIONS

Looks from EMME Studio. (Photo Credit: EMME Studios)

National Native Heritage Month is not just a time to admire the tapestry of indigenous cultures, but also an opportunity to celebrate the incredible talents of Native American fashion designers who are reshaping the landscape of fashion. Here are eight designers whose work not only captivates the runway but also pays homage to their rich heritage.

JENNIFER YOUNGER

Jewelry by Jennifer Younger. (Photo Credit: Jasper Soloff)

Jennifer Younger effortlessly fuses traditional Native aesthetics with contemporary silhouettes. Her designs, inspired by her Navajo heritage, are a testament to the enduring beauty of indigenous artistry.

JAMIE OKUMA

A look from Jamie Okuma. (Photo Credit: Jamie Okuma)

Jamie Okuma, a Luiseno and Shoshone-Bannock artist, brings beadwork to life in ways that defy expectations. Her intricate bead designs tell stories, capturing the essence of Native American narratives with each carefully chosen hue.

EMME STUDIO

Models display Korina Emmerich’s Drugstore Rodeo 2021 collection. (Photo Credit: Two Hawks Young)

Korina Emmerich, of the Puyallup Tribe, blends her Native roots with a modern edge in EMME Studio. Her pieces are a dynamic fusion of bold patterns and innovative designs that transcend cultural boundaries.

TANIA LARSSON

Jewelry by Tania Larsson. (Photo Credit: Jamie Stevenson Photography)

Hailing from the Gwich’in and Kaska Dena nations, Tania Larsson’s creations are a dance of color and texture. Her work reflects the vast beauty of the Canadian North, echoing the Northern Lights in every stitch.

B. YELLOWTAIL

A look from B. Yellowtail. (Photo Credit: B. Yellowtail)

Bethany Yellowtail, a member of the Crow and Northern Cheyenne tribes, empowers through fashion. Her brand, B. Yellowtail, blends cultural motifs with elegant simplicity, creating clothing that embodies strength and grace.

EVAN DUCHARME

Looks from Evan Ducharme. (Photo Credit: Evan Ducharme)

Evan Ducharme, a designer of Metis heritage, weaves his cultural identity into every garment. His creations tell the story of the Metis people, combining historical reverence with a contemporary flair.

GINEW

Looks from Ginew. (Photo Credit: Ginew)

Dyani White Hawk, a member of the Rosebud Sioux Tribe, breathes life into denim through her brand Ginew. Her designs honor her Native roots with intricate details, showcasing the spirit of heritage in every stitch.

4KINSHIP

A look from 4Kninship. (Photo Credit: 4Kinship)

Amy Denet Deal, a Chickasaw designer, explores the intersection of elegance and tradition in 4Kinship. Her creations embody the spirit of Native American aesthetics, offering a harmonious blend of the past and present.

NAVIGATING THE THREADS OF CULTURAL SENSITIVITY

As we celebrate National Native Heritage Month, let us not only appreciate the breathtaking designs but also recognize the profound stories woven into each thread. These eight designers stand as living testaments to the resilience, creativity, and cultural pride of indigenous communities. In a world where fashion often transcends borders, their work serves as a powerful reminder that diversity is not just a trend but a celebration of the rich tapestry of human experience.

So, tell us, when designers are influenced by a culture that is not their own, do you believe it is cultural appropriation, or do you believe its an homage to?

Veteran’s Day: Saluting Style & Strength

- - Fashion History

A look from Sacai’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

As we celebrated Veterans Day on November 11th, we honor the brave men and women who have served in the armed forces. It’s a day to express gratitude, admiration, and respect for the sacrifices made by our veterans. But beyond parades and solemn ceremonies, it’s also a moment to celebrate the influence of military history on the world of fashion. We will explore how military-inspired fashion has made its mark on runways and especially acknowledge the remarkable women who played a crucial role during World War II – the era that ignited a fashion revolution.

COMMANDING STYLE

A look from The Attico’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

Military-inspired fashion has a long history of making a bold statement on runways worldwide. Drawing from the uniform designs of various armed forces, designers have incorporated elements such as epaulettes, camouflage patterns, trench coats, and combat boots into their collections. These garments, often imbued with a sense of authority and structure, have been embraced by fashion enthusiasts seeking to make a powerful fashion statement.

During and after World War II, the military look permeated the fashion world. The iconic trench coat, originally designed for British soldiers, found its place in civilian wardrobes. The “bomber jacket” was adapted from aviation uniforms, becoming a symbol of cool rebellion and youthful style. Even the classic sailor stripe and sailor collar, inspired by naval uniforms, continue to be timeless fashion staples. Join us on a sartorial journey as we explore the chic, commanding and timeless world of military-inspired fashion.

THE TIMELESS TRENCH COAT

A look from Maison Margiela’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

The trench coat, born on the battlefields of World War I, has become a symbol of sophistication and versatility. Its distinctive double-breasted design, epaulettes, and weather-resistant fabric exude an air of authority and practicality. Whether cinched at the waist with a belt or left open for a relaxed look, the trench coat is a must-have for every fashion-forward fashionista.

MARCHING ORDERS

A look from Balenciaga’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

Camouflage patterns, designed to help soldiers blend into their surroundings, have become a high-impact fashion statement. From cargo pants to jackets, the camo trend makes a bold and unapologetic impression. Celebrities, models, and street-style aficionados have all embraced this print, effortlessly fusing military precision with urban street style.

THE BOMBER

A look from Undercover’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

Originally designed for aviators, the bomber jacket has transcended its utilitarian roots to become a symbol of rebellion and youth culture. Its ribbed cuffs, waist, and collar, give it an iconic silhouette that exudes a sense of edginess. Today, bomber jackets come in various materials and colors, making them a versatile addition to any wardrobe.

REGAL IN OFFICER’S ATTIRE

A look from Ralph Lauren’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

Military-style blazers with gold buttons, brass details, and sharp tailoring, lend an air of formality and elegance. Inspired by officer’s uniforms, these garments exude authority and sophistication. Paired with jeans for a casual look or a sleek pencil skirt for a professional ensemble, military blazers are a timeless choice for those who ‘command’ attention.

A look from Balmain’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

TIME FOR COMBAT

Prada’s iconic combat boots. (Photo Credit: Prada)

Combat boots, initially crafted for soldiers to withstand the rigors of the battlefield, have become a staple in fashion. With their rugged, no-nonsense appearance, they effortlessly juxtapose with dresses, skirts, and denim, adding a dash of punk rock attitude to any outfit.

EARNING YOUR STRIPES

A look from Schiaparelli’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

The classic sailor stripe, inspired by naval uniforms, continues to be a timeless fashion staple. Breton stripes bring a nautical charm to any outfit and can be effortlessly incorporated into both casual and formal looks. Whether it’s a striped tee or a striped dress, this pattern always ‘anchors’ your style.

WOMAN OF VALOR

Women in the Army during WW2. (Photo Credit: U.S. Army)

On Veterans Day, we should also celebrate the unsung heroines who played pivotal roles during World War II, reshaping history and leaving an indelible mark. We’s like to honor those women of valor – the Rosie the Riveters, the Pin-up girls on the sides of warplanes, the nurses, the secretaries, and all the women who raised their children solo, while their men were off at war. We appreciate their wartime contributions through the ages and the heightened role they play in military service today.

ROSIE THE RIVETER

Rosie the Riveter Poster. (Photo Credit: U.S. Department Of Defense)

Rosie the Riveter, a symbol of female empowerment during World War II, became an icon of resilience and determination. With her rolled-up sleeves, red bandana, and a strong, confident demeanor, Rosie represented the countless women who stepped into factory roles to support the war effort. She inspired not only women in the workforce but also fashion trends with her practical yet stylish jumpsuit, the modern boiler suit, and the fashionable reimagining of the iconic polka-dotted bandana.

PIN-UP GIRLS

World War II,  U.S. Army Vintage Print Pin-up. (Photo Credit: Etsy)

In the midst of wartime uncertainty, pin-up girls adorned the sides of warplanes, bringing both beauty and morale to the frontlines. These alluring images, often featuring glamorous women in patriotic poses, became symbols of hope and inspiration for the troops. Today, the pin-up girl aesthetic continues to influence fashion, from high-waisted bikinis to retro-inspired dresses, capturing the playful and vintage appeal of that era.

ANGELS OF MERCY: NURSES

Navy nurses dressed in new uniforms, in the nurses quarters at Aiea Naval Hospital, Honolulu, Hawaii, early March 1945 after liberation. (Photo Credit: Navel History and Heritage Command)

The nurses of World War II, often referred to as “angels of mercy,” played a vital role in caring to the wounded soldiers. Their courage, compassion, and dedication continue to be an inspiration. While their uniforms were functional and practical, their commitment to duty remains unmatched. Today, their spirit lives on in the clean lines and crisp whites of medical-inspired fashion, reflecting an air of professionalism and compassion.

SECRETARIAL DUTY

Women’s Army Corps during WWII. (Photo Credit: Britannica)

The secretaries, typists, and administrative assistants of the wartime era were the backbone of military logistics. They were tasked with managing the ever-growing volumes of paperwork and correspondence. Their contributions paved the way for modern office attire, with pencil skirts, tailored blouses, and sleek accessories. These outfits exemplify the blend of professionalism and elegance that marked the wartime working woman.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE

The Women’s Army Corps (WAC)  in WWII. (Photo Credit: National Woman’s History Museum)

So, this Veterans Day, as we remember and honor those who served, let’s also celebrate the intersection of style and strength – a legacy that endures through military-inspired fashion. These designs connect us to the past and continue to inspire us in the present, reminding us of the remarkable women and men who shaped history during wartime.

So, tell us, are you a fan of military-inspired fashion?

Introducing Our New Instructor Lane Odom & CLO 3D Design Series

- - Uncategorized
Lane Odom Headshot

Lane Odom – UoF’s CLO 3D instructor (Photo courtesy: Lane Odom)

At University of Fashion, our mission has always been to prepare students with a solid foundation in on-the-table technical techniques, as well as computer-assisted design and pattern making skills. In 2022, with our industry embracing 3D design software, we added a 3D Browzwear lesson series, taught by industry pros Iris Hopkins and Brittany Gray.

We are proud to announce that we are expanding our commitment to 3D  by adding lessons in CLO 3D, taught by our newest instructor, Lane Odom. Lane’s series begins with an Introduction to CLO 3D, followed by How to Construct a Garment with Existing 3D Patterns and then How to Draft a CLO 3D Women’s Bodice Block. Lane provides instructions on how to purchase the CLO 3D software and demonstrates how you can actually draft a set of slopers, based on your avatar’s measurements from scratch, a rare lesson in the 3D space. Click on the link below each lesson’s poster frame to view a preview of that particular lesson.

2-PosterFrame-CA-CLO-001-Introduction to CLO3D

                                                                                  UoF’s lesson on Introduction to CLO 3D

 3-PosterFrame-CA-CLO-002-Constructing a Garment With Existing Patterns-LT

                                        UoF’s lesson Constructing a Garment with Existing Patterns

 

 

ABOUT LANE ODOM

Upon graduating from Johns Hopkins University with a B.A. in International Studies, Lane enrolled at Parsons School of Design to pursue a A.A.S. Fashion Design degree. After four semesters, he graduated with honors and displayed his senior thesis collection with the Design x NYC student showcase.

Through the post-pandemic uncertainty of 2021, Lane started as an intern for Swiss apparel start-up Mover Plastic Free Sportswear. There, he quickly became a full-time employee and eventually assumed all responsibilities for product design, development and production, and managed a global supply chain of premium materials and top-notch European craftsmanship.

Lane Odom wearing a Mover Plastic Free Sportswear Jacket

Lane Odom wearing a Mover Plastic Free Sportswear jacket (Photo courtesy Mover Plastic Free Sportswear)

Lane eventually launched his own capsule collection online under the brand name Vane. “Not only is Vane about my personal journey as a designer, but I want to establish a business that is going to nurture its community and make its corner of the world a better place” he says.

models wearing Vane collection

Lane Odom’s Vane collection (Photo credit: Vane)

As Lane advances his journey in fashion design, he hopes to continue to increase his involvement in the education of the next generation with the knowledge he has gained from his experiences in the industry.

In an interview with University of Fashion founder, Francesca Sterlacci, Lane shares his career aspirations and his interest in 3D design:

What made you interested in fashion after having graduated with a degree from Johns Hopkinson in International Studies?

I became interested in fashion from an entrepreneurial perspective during my second year at Johns Hopkins. I always had an active imagination and would find myself daydreaming a lot. I saw that fashion could be a great mix of creativity and business/analytics, and I quickly fell in love with sketching ideas. On top of that, fashion was going through its “streetwear renaissance,” where it felt like participation in the industry was opening up, and I wanted to throw my hat in the ring. I knew I wanted to have a career contributing to culture and leaving a positive impact; it just so happened I found my passion in fashion, and it has been a fulfilling medium after my time as an athlete.

What prompted your interest in learning 3D?

My Design Communication class at Parsons was my first introduction to the software. The class had a focus on CLO3D, with the final project to build an eight-look collection by the end of the semester. I took to the program immediately, thoroughly enjoying the ability to conceptualize designs beyond 2D drawings. Additionally, I already had a lot of interest in technical design. Since I came to fashion with an entrepreneurial spirit, I felt it would be important for me to be able to build garments on my own. 3D stood out to me as a tool for a less resource-intensive approach, in both product development and presentation.

Do you think 3D is as accepted in the fashion industry as it could be? 

I think naturally it is going to take time for industry professionals to get familiar with 3D, and how to integrate it into the design and development process, as well as establishing standardization across different software. While it is digital, 3D is still quite technical, not just in clothing design but in 3D modeling/animation as well, so I think it will always have a particular type of user. I think the first to adopt 3D is/should be technical designers and pattern makers, or any designers who are really into the making process. Then it remains to be seen how product represented in 3D will be received by fashion consumers. Again, it’s going to take time for people to build trust with 3D, just as it takes time for any brand to build trust with customers. All and All I think 3D is exactly where it should be, and it will be up to the early adopters to continue to prove its use cases.

What role does sustainable design play in your future aspirations as a designer? 

Mainly using natural materials as much as possible. If we can create more products with its end-of-life cycle in mind, then we can cut down on a lot of plastic pollution relatively easily. I love wool as a fiber for its versatility across knits and wovens and its interaction with a person’s body. I think that is a great place to start as an independent designer, and then continue to track our impact and continue to make responsible decisions as we grow.

Do you find your proficiency in on-the-table technical skills a big plus when working with 3D design software?

Yes, definitely. If anything, the 3D software has been a vital tool to practice my on-the-table technical skills more efficiently. Being able to study different pattern drafting methods before needing to cut and sew is a big plus. The 3D simulation not only shows you silhouette, but also where fabrics are falling, bunching, or stretching around the body. It will always require technical know-how to correct or alter your garment. Even though it is digital, when you know what you are looking for, you have to take the right steps to achieve a good result, just like you would on the table.

Follow Lane Odom:

IG @vanestudiosofficial

LinkedIn https://www.linkedin.com/in/lane-odom-431243115

TikTok @lernonvane

 

Milan & Paris Fashion Weeks: A Tale of Two Cities & A Fashion Industry First

- - Fashion Shows

Looks from Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree)

If you are an ardent follower of fashion, then you know that each fashion week city has its own personality. This year, the contrast between Milan Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week was especially evident, as the former offered sexy and glamorous looks, while the latter went all in on avant-garde and experimentalism. Here are some of the differences (and similarities) between the two fashion cities for the Spring 2024 season.

MILAN FASHION WEEK SS24

Milan Fashion Week may be over, but the memory of  stunning collections and star-studded front rows linger on. The six-day event, which ran from September 19th to September 25th, showcased some of the most influential and creative designers in the world. One of the main themes that emerged from MFW was a return to glamour, sensuality and sophistication, but…with a modern twist. Some of the highlights included:

THE NEW TOM FORD

Backstage looks from Tom Ford’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Style Du Monde)

Peter Hawkings, the British designer who replaced Tom Ford as the creative director of his namesake brand, made his debut with a collection that stayed true to Ford’s signature style of sleek minimalism and hedonistic elegance. The show featured velvet suits, silk blouses, leather coats, evening sandals and crystal-embellished dresses in a palette of black, white, red and metallics. Hawkings also added some playful touches, such as asymmetrical jackets, cropped tuxedos and satin knickers, worn over pantyhose. The collection was a tribute to Ford’s legacy and a statement of Hawkings’ own vision for the future of Tom Ford. Some might even call Hawkings, Ford’s mini-me.

CHANGING OF THE GUARD

Looks from Gucci’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Gucci)

Sabato De Sarno, the former Valentino designer who took over as Gucci’s creative director after Alessandro Michele’s departure, also made his first appearance on the Milan runway with a collection that aimed to make people fall in love with Gucci again. De Sarno focused on fluidity, lightness, and freedom, creating dresses in sheer fabrics that contrasted with tailored suits and coats in Gucci’s iconic materials. He also introduced a new “it color”, Gucci Rosso, a deep oxblood hue that evoked a sense of retro sophistication. The collection was a celebration of Gucci’s heritage and a reflection of De Sarno’s personal style.

YOU’VE BEEN SLIMED

Looks from Prada’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: The Impression)

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons continued their Prada collaboration with a collection that explored the concept of craft and technique. The show was set in a space filled with slime that dripped from the ceiling, creating a contrast between the organic and the artificial. The clothes were equally juxtaposed, mixing formal silhouettes with floaty fabrics, printed fringe with floral patterns, and metallic accessories with delicate materials. The collection also featured some nods to Prada’s past, such as Peter Pan collars, glossy trenches and hand-carved bag clasps that reproduced a design from 1913. The collection was a demonstration of Prada’s innovation and excellence.

THE ART OF SEDUCTION

Naomi Campbell wows at Dolce & Gabbana as the supermodel closes the Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, the design duo behind Dolce & Gabbana, delivered a collection that was all about seduction and glamour. The show was filled with corset dresses, tulle slips, lingerie sets, barn jackets and flapper dresses in satin, velvet, leather and lace. The colors were rich and vibrant, ranging from black and white to red, pink, purple and gold. The accessories were equally eye-catching, featuring crystal embellishments, metal fringe and vintage baubles. The collection was a tribute to Dolce & Gabbana’s signature aesthetic and a celebration of femininity.

‘90s GLAMOUR

Supermodels Claudia Schiffer and Gigi Hadid backstage at Versace’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Style Du Monde)

Versace is one of the world’s most iconic and influential fashion houses, known for its bold, sexy and glamorous style. For Spring 2024, the House paid tribute to its founder Gianni Versace and his legendary designs from the early ’90s. The collection was inspired by the autumn 1995 Versace and spring 1995 Atelier Versace collections, which were marked by a ladylike elegance and sophistication.

One of the highlights of the show was the return of Claudia Schiffer to the runway, who modeled for Versace in the ’90s and became one of fashion’s original supermodels. Schiffer wore a pale-yellow lace embroidered metal mesh slipdress that evoked the sensuality and glamour of Versace’s signature material. The collection also reflected the current trends of the season, such as short and shorter shorts and skirts, checkerboard prints, pastel colors and flat ballerina shoes. Versace also updated its classic Medusa-patterned silks into boxer short and shirt sets for men and women, adding a touch of playfulness and comfort to the collection.

ROMAN ELEGANCE

Looks from Fendi’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: The Impression)

Fendi celebrated its Roman roots and its contemporary vision for Spring 2024. Kim Jones, the artistic director for couture and womenswear, said he was inspired by Rome and the women who live there. “In Rome, there is an elegance in ease and not caring what anybody else thinks—that is real luxury. In this collection, I wanted to reflect that,” Jones wrote in the show notes.

The show featured models wearing fluid dresses, tailored suits, knitwear separates and leather coats in a palette of black, white, red, yellow and blue. The collection also featured some references to Fendi’s past, such as the double-F logo, the puzzle print and the metal mesh fabric. The collection was influenced by Karl Lagerfeld’s spring 1999 show for the house and his minimalist approach.

A FASHION INDUSTRY FIRST!

The closing of Moschino’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

Up until now we thought we had seen all the ‘firsts’ there were to see in the fashion industry, e.g., Black and ethic models appearing on magazine covers and racial & ethnic diversity, size inclusivity, the physically handicapped and transgender models on the runway. We witnessed high-end designers like Karl Lagerfeld collaborating with H&M and other famous designer collaborations with Target. Then came the ‘designer for the designer’ trend, John Galiano at Maison Margiela and Raf Simmons at Jil Sander, followed by the ‘guest designer’ phenomenon, such as Simone Rocha for Jean Paul Gaultier Couture and Colm Dillane for Louis Vuitton. And of course the ‘celebrity’ creative director craze, the most recent being Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton and Balmain x Beyoncé.

The Moschino brand has always been the industry’s most playful fashion house, known for its witty, colorful and irreverent style. After founder Franco Moschino’s death in 1994, Rossella Jardini took the helm, followed by Jeremy Scott who, for ten years, elevated the brand’s status. With the exit of Scott in March 2023, everyone wondered who would replace him, especially since this year marks the brand’s 40th anniversary. Well, enter the era of ‘guest stylist”.

Every fashionista knows that the role of ‘stylist’ has been given a big boost, thanks in part to the first ever CFDA “Stylist of the Year” award that went to Law Roach in 2022. So, in a bold first move for the fashion industry, the Moschino brand invited four prominent stylists to reinterpret its archive to create the Spring 2024 Moschino collection. Whether the brand couldn’t get it together to hire a new creative director in time for their Spring 2024 season or…perhaps it’s a signal that stylists are now the new act in town. Whatever the reason, the house reached out to four stylists who paid tribute to the late Franco Moschino and his legacy of satire, subversion and joy. Stylists Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Katie Grand, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, and Lucia Liu each created 10 looks that reflected their own personal style and injected some of Moschino’s signature elements.

The finale of the show featured 40 models wearing T-shirts with Moschino’s logo, and raised funds for the Elton John AIDS Foundation in memory of Franco Moschino who died from AIDS in 1994.

PARIS FASHION WEEK

A look from Undercover’s Spring 2024 Collection. Glowing terrariums filled with roses & butterflies. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

Paris Fashion Week, which ran from Sep 25th to Oct 3rd is the grand finale of  fashion month.  This year the Parisian runways were full of surprises, as many designers experimented with avant-garde concepts, materials, and silhouettes, challenging the conventional notions of beauty and style. Here are some of the highlights from the Paris Fashion Week Spring 2024.

A BALL OF FUN

A look from Comme des Garçons’ Spring 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

Rei Kawakubo, the founder and creative director of Comme des Garçons, is one of the pioneers of avant-garde fashion, and her latest collection was no exception. Overcome by the state of the world today, and the feeling of gloom and doom, Rei Kawakubo’s counterintuitive reaction was to roll out a collection filled with huge balls of fun.

For Spring 2024, Kawakubo showed off her playful side with multi-colored, bubbly fabric sculptured looks. Patterns ranged from neon graphics to Hawaiian hibiscus prints. The collection was a stunning display of Kawakubo’s artistic vision and craftsmanship.

FINDING THE LIGHT

A look from Rick Owens’ Spring 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

Rick Owens is another designer who is known for his avant-garde and edgy style, often inspired by subcultures and dystopian themes. But for Spring 2024, Owens showed his softer side by playing with colors ranging from deep reds and mauve-ish pinks. It was a refreshing take on Owens’ usual goth-like aesthetic.

Looks ranged from peak-shouldered shrunken leather motorcycle jackets to billowing parachute like capes. Owens also featured plenty of slim, long skirts with ultra-high waists,  as well as circular pouf dresses which were oh so whimsical.

THE GREAT TRANSFORMER

A look from Maison Margiela’s Spring 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

Maison Margiela is one of the most avant-garde and influential fashion houses in the world, known for its deconstructed and reconstructed garments, often playing with the notions of identity and anonymity. Its spring 2024 collection was a daring exploration of dualities and transformation, creating a stunning visual impact and a profound emotional expression. The collection was designed by John Galliano, who is also the creative director of the house, and who is widely regarded as one of the most original and visionary designers of our time.

Galliano is a master of playing with the juxtaposition of vintage inspired pieces, such as bodices, linings, and petticoats and deconstructing them up to create his beloved avant-garde looks.

REMIXING THE CODES

A look from Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

Yohji Yamamoto is another one of the pioneers of avant-garde fashion, and his latest collection was no exception. The designer has been creating his experimental fashions for over 40 years and recently stated in an interview with Vogue that “he hates looking back to his own work.”

For Spring 2024 Yamamoto looks to the great designers of the past for inspiration, citing Chanel, Givenchy, and Balenciaga. He said he wanted to examine and remix their codes in his distinct way. Looks ranged from restrained black dresses over white shirts to deconstructed frocks. Yamamoto’s collection was entirely in black with a pop of white sprinkled throughout. But the darkness showcased Yamamoto’s creations brilliantly, as looks were layered with pleats and tucks creating origami-like volume that was a stunning display of Yamamoto’s artistic vision and craftsmanship.

SARAH BURTON TAKES HER FINAL BOW

A look from Alexander McQueen’s Spring 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Alexander McQueen)

The house of Alexander McQueen has always been known for its innovative and futuristic designs, often pushing the boundaries of fashion and technology. Its spring 2024 show was creative director Sarah Burton’s final collection for the house. “This collection is inspired by female anatomy, Queen Elizabeth I, the blood red rose, and Magdalena Abakanowicz, a transgressive and powerful artist who refused ever to compromise her vision,” she wrote in the press statement. “The show is dedicated to Lee Alexander McQueen, whose wish was always to empower women, and to the passion, talent, and loyalty of my team.”

Burton also paid tribute to Britain and the national flower of England, the red rose. The flower motif made its mark on several dresses. The creative director was also inspired by textile sculptures of Abakanowicz, a feminist artist from Poland, whose forms suggest the embrace of motherhood, vaginas, comfort, and protection.

From armored leather corsetry to gowns that celebrated the female body, the collection was a remarkable demonstration of Burton’s vision and skill. We are all wondering what Burton will do next. Stay tuned.

So, tell us, do your creations lean on the side of sultry and seductive, or do they lean towards avant-garde?

 

 

A RIOT OF EXPERIMENTAL ELEGANCE: LONDON FASHION WEEK SS/2024

- - Fashion Shows

Backstage at Susan Fang’s Spring 2024 Show. This dress was made from 600 handcrafted bead trees. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

While quiet luxury ruled the New York runways, London Fashion Week offered the exact opposite – eccentric elegance and avant-garde fun. London Fashion Week has always been a playground for designers who dare to defy convention and LFW Spring 2024 was no exception. In fact, we witnessed a sensational surge in experimental fashion that pushed the limits of imagination. The London shows took place from September 15th to the 19th and it was clear from the start that this season was going to be all about taking risks, celebrating the bizarre, and embracing the unconventional. Runways came alive with avant-garde designs, pushing the boundaries of what’s considered fashion. Leading the charge were some of the industry’s most iconic names. Let’s dive in:

BREAKING THE MOLD

The genesis of JW Anderson’s Spring 2024 collection was inspired by the humble yet powerful medium of clay. Yes, I said clay. Jonathan Anderson, found himself captivated by the malleability of clay, its capacity for transformation, and the inherent connection it bears to the human touch. In his collection, Anderson endeavored to capture the essence of clay, showcasing its versatility, sensuousness, and raw beauty through every piece. Case in point, a variety of looks that looked as though they were molded from Play-Doh — and they sort of were. Created out of plasticine, a British label of modelling clay, Anderson’s creations were stiff, lumpy, and totally camp. Almost like looking at a model wearing a cartoon.

A look from JW Anderson’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

ETHEREAL ROMANCE MEETS THE AVANT-GARDE

Simone Rocha’s Spring 2024 collection was a triumph of ethereal romanticism intertwined with experimental fashion. The runway was a dreamscape of whimsical silhouettes and intricate detailing. Rocha merged bold fabrics and textures, combining lace, tulle, and leather in unexpected ways.

One unforgettable piece was a voluminous tulle gown adorned with cascading floral appliqués. It was as if the models had stepped out of a fairytale and onto the runway. Simone Rocha reminded us that experimental fashion can be soft, romantic, and utterly enchanting – embellished Crocs and all.

A look from Simone Rocha’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

THE CLASH OF HERITAGE AND FUTURISM

At Burberry, Creative Director Daniel Lee (this is his sophomore collection for the heritage brand) took the concept of experimental fashion to a new level. The collection was a vibrant blend of heritage and futurism, as models walked down the runway in reimagined trench coats. Models strutted tailored coats with low slung belts and Lee’s updated Burberry Prorsum ‘knight on horseback’ logo, one that is deconstructed and taken apart – the pattern consists of images of metal carabiner clips in the shape of the knight’s horse and heavy-duty silver chains. The Spring 2024 collection was a perfect balance of elevated grunge and classic Brit appeal that is the signature of Burberry.

A look from Burberry’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

ELEGANCE REDFINED

Richard Quinn’s Spring 2024 collection was an extravaganza of excess and opulence. The show, held at the Grand London Ballroom, was an ode to the designer’s late father and stayed true to Quinn’s signature creations, as models walked the runway draped in lush fabrics, feathers, and sequins, creating an atmosphere of grandeur. The collection took a pensive tone with regal opera gloves, exaggerated collars, and cage dresses in both mourning blacks and angelic off-whites. Supermodel Jessica Stam closed the show in an embellished bridal jumpsuit, signaling that even in grief, there is love. Quinn’s collection proved that experimental fashion can be a celebration of the extraordinary.

A look from Richard Quinn’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

HERITAGE MEETS SUBVERSION

Chopova Lowena’s Spring 2024 collection was a masterful blend of heritage and subversion. Models wore garments that juxtaposed traditional textiles with unconventional design elements. The design duo, Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena-Irons, merged tough skate culture with frilly folkloric dreams creating a gothic girlie look that was superb. Case in point, a delicate lace collared jacket paired with a black lace dress and leather studded accessories, symbolizing the collision of old-world charm and modern edge. Chopova Lowena’s collection was a testament to the beauty of contrasts in fashion.

A look from Chopova Lowena’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

THAT’S A WRAP

As the curtain fell on London Fashion Week Spring 2024, these British designers left an indelible mark on the fashion world. Their experimental creations challenged norms, pushed boundaries, and celebrated the art of self-expression through clothing. In the grand tapestry of fashion, they remind us that it’s the rule-breakers and innovators who propel the industry into exciting new territories, ensuring that fashion remains a vibrant, ever-evolving art form. Oh, and it looked like they were having lots of fun doing it!

Looks from KWK by Kay Kwok’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Shutterstock)

So tell us, are you embracing the NY quiet luxury trend or London’s experimental fashion?

QUIET LUXURY STOLE THE SHOW AT NY FASHION WEEK SPRING 2024

- - Fashion Shows

Looks from Michael Kors’ Spring 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

In the dazzling whirlwind that is the fashion world, where fantastical runway creations often seem more suited for the pages of a sci-fi novel than our daily lives, New York Fashion Week Spring 2024, which ran from September 7th to September 13, 2023, came as a breath of fresh air. This Spring 2024 season, designers decided to take a step back from the avant-garde and embrace a much-needed return to the realm of “real clothes for the real world.” The result? Runway shows that felt more relatable, relevant, and refreshing than ever before. Are we all ready for some reality?

Fashion enthusiasts worldwide seemed to have been yearning for authenticity in recent years. Haven’t we all  grown tired of feeling like mere spectators of fashion, unable to find any common ground between the eccentric runway fantasies and our everyday wardrobes? Well, finally, New York’s designers are offering a solution to this dilemma by delivering collections that spoke to the modern woman, the urban man, and the fashion-conscious non-binary individual. The collections presented us with pieces that felt not only wearable but desirable.

Backstage at Altuzarra’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Hunter Abrams)

This season wasn’t about who could make the biggest statement; it was about the designers who showcased the art of quiet luxury, proving that sometimes, less truly is more.

THE HISTORY OF MINIMALISM

If you Google “minimalist fashion designers”, up pops Coco Chanel, Halston, Helmut Lang, Calvin Klein and Martin Margiela. Clothes known in the 90s as sleek, elegant and understated, would go on to become one of design’s most enduring ‘less is more’ trends and not just in the fashion world, but also in art, architecture and furniture design,  One could argue that American designer Michael Kors has always been a minimalist.

Fast forward to 2018 and the 5 season hit TV series Succession, which gave us Shiv Roy. Her wardrobe perfected the “Art of Quiet Luxury”, with its elite high-end aesthetic comprised of toned-down, tailored designer pieces in color codes of gray, black, brown and beige, over noisy opulence full of obvious branding and loud logos.

By 2022, the trend-setting powers of social media and growing pressure on the fashion industry to create collections that could stand the test of time, saw the list of brands embracing a more stripped-back approach continue to grow. Brands like The Row, Cos, Totême, Peter Do, Jim Sander and Khaite are some examples that brought minimalist dressing back.

And now, for Spring 2024, designers Proenza Schouler and Tory Burch brought minimalism back, with clean lines, simple silhouettes and muted color palettes. Their respective collections spoke volumes, without the need for excessive embellishments or flashy prints. The focus was on impeccable tailoring, high-quality materials, and timeless pieces that transcended seasons. What was once called “Investment Dressing”, now goes by the name “Minimalistic Quiet Luxury”.

A look from Proenza Schouler’s Spring 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Proenza Schouler)

A look from Tory Burch’s Spring 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

MONOCHROMATIC MASTERY

Another piece of the Minimalistic Quiet Luxury trend is monochromatic looks. The collections of Gabriela Hearst and Willy Chavarria showcased the power of a single color. These designers demonstrated that dressing in one color from head to toe can be incredibly chic and sophisticated. It’s a testament to the idea that true luxury doesn’t need to scream; it can whisper.

Looks from Willy Chavarria’s Spring 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

A look from Gabriela Hearst’s Spring 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

RETURN OF TAILORING

Tailoring made a triumphant comeback at NYFW Spring 2024. Designers like Helmut Lang and Ralph Lauren displayed a mastery of the art of tailoring, by creating perfectly fitted suits, blazers, and trousers that exuded sophistication and confidence. The attention to detail was unparalleled, with impeccable stitching and precise cuts.

A look from Helmut Lang’s Spring 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

A look from Ralph Lauren’s Spring 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Ralph Lauren)

SUBTLE DETAILS THAT SPEAK VOLUMES

Quiet luxury is all about the little things that make a big impact. Designers like Jason Wu and Catherine Holstein of Khaite incorporated subtle details like delicate embroidery, discreet logos, and elegant draping to elevate their pieces. These subtle touches added an air of exclusivity without resorting to ostentation.

Looks from Jason Wu’s Spring 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

A look from Khaite’s Spring 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Khaite)

SUSTAINABLE ELEGANCE

A significant component of quiet luxury in 2024 was its commitment to sustainability. Designers such as Stella McCartney and Eileen Fisher were in the forefront of the environmental movement and for Spring 2024, designers Gabriela Hearst and Collina Strada demonstrated that luxury and eco-consciousness can coexist. They used eco-friendly materials and production processes, showcasing that a responsible approach to fashion can be a luxury in itself.

A look from Gabriela Hearst’s Spring 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

A look from Collina Strada’s Spring 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

TIMELESSNESS

Perhaps the most captivating aspect of quiet luxury is its timelessness. Designers like Carolina Herrera and Ralph Lauren created pieces that will remain relevant and stylish for years to come. These collections weren’t about chasing fleeting trends but rather celebrating enduring elegance.

A look from Carolina Herrera’s Spring 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

Supermodel Christy Turlington walks in Ralph Lauren’s Spring-Summer 2024 show at an artfully-transformed warehouse in the Brooklyn Naval Yard. (Photo Credit: AP Press)

In a world that often values excess and extravagance, NYFW Spring 2024 reminded us of the beauty of restraint. Quiet luxury is a celebration of craftsmanship, quality, minimalism, and the subtle art of making a statement without shouting. It’s about embracing the idea that true luxury is in the details, in the craftsmanship, and in the enduring appeal of a well-made garment.

As we step into this new era of understated elegance, we applaud the designers who have embraced quiet luxury and redefined the standards of opulence. NYFW Spring 2024 has given us a fresh perspective on what it means to be truly luxurious in an increasingly noisy world. In the end, it’s not about how loudly you proclaim your status; it’s about the quiet confidence that comes from knowing you’re wearing the best.

So tell us, do you believe quiet luxury is just a trend or is the understated movement here to stay?

 

 

 

 

FASHION BRANDS UNITE FOR MAUI

- - Current Topics in Fashion

The hall of the historic Waiola Church is engulfed in flames in Lahaina on Aug. 8 (Photo Credit: Associated Press)

This past summer, Hawaii faced an unprecedented crisis as raging wildfires consumed its lush landscapes and threatened its communities. The picturesque landscapes that had long captured the world’s imagination became the backdrop of a nightmare that began on August 8, 2023. Raging wildfires, fueled by a confluence of unfortunate events, put the very essence of this tropical paradise to the test.

The story of Hawaii’s 2023 wildfires is one of tragedy, borne from a series of unfortunate events. Unusually hot and dry conditions, exacerbated by climate change, set the stage for an inferno. Strong winds fanned the flames, spreading the destruction far and wide. Hawaii’s unique ecosystems, teeming with life, were under siege as fires raged across multiple islands, leaving a trail of destruction in their wake. The Big Island, Maui, Oahu, and Kauai were all affected. In a cruel twist of fate, some of the most iconic and beloved spots, such as the Haleakalā National Park and the lush forests of the Hamakua Coast, bore the brunt of the blaze.

As the islands grappled with the devastating aftermath, a surprising source of support emerged – the fashion industry. In the face of Hawaii’s catastrophe, several prominent brands and designers stepped up to make a difference. They recognized that fashion isn’t just about clothes but also about the communities and environments that inspire their creativity.

PATAGONIA

The interior of a Patagonia Store. (Photo Credit: The New York Times)

Known for their commitment to environmental causes, Patagonia was among the first fashion brands to respond to the Maui wildfires. The company pledged a substantial donation to the relief efforts and encouraged their customers to contribute as well. Patagonia’s dedication to preserving our planet goes hand in hand with their commitment to aiding communities affected by natural disasters.

Kate Williams, CEO of 1% for the Planet, Patagonia’s global movement, issued a statement on August 11, urging the fashion industry to see the wildfires as a wakeup call. “This has been a summer full of signals that climate change is not a future threat, it’s now; it’s heart wrenching as we see the devastation of ecosystems and communities all around us. We are leaning into our community of action as a way to both support each other and keep working toward a healthier future.”

TOMMY BAHAMA

Tommy Bahama’s Hawaii Shirt. (Photo Credit: Tommy Bahama)

Tommy Bahama, a brand synonymous with island living, took a more commercial approach with their special “Aloha for Hawaii” collection and a percentage of the proceeds donated to wildfire relief organizations. This initiative raised funds and spread a message support, however, one can’t help but think that the brand was also capitalizing on the tragedy.

ALO YOGA

Alo Yoga classes in Hawaii. (Photo Credit: Alo Yoga)

Alo Yoga, a brand recognized for its stylish activewear, launched a unique campaign to contribute to the cause. They organized outdoor yoga events in Hawaii, with all proceeds from ticket sales and merchandise going directly to wildfire relief. This initiative blended fitness, mindfulness, and philanthropy.

PRANA

PrAna athlete-ambassador, Anna Ehrgott on the Big Island of Hawaii. (Photo Credit: PrAna)

PrAna, an eco-conscious fashion brand, partnered with local artisans in Hawaii to create a limited edition “Hawaii Strong” collection. The collection featured clothing and accessories inspired by Hawaiian culture, and like Tommy Bahama, a portion of the profits were donated to wildfire relief.

TORI RICHARD

Tori Richard is the leading brand for men’s and women’s resort and aloha apparel and is based in Honolulu Hawaii. (Photo Credit: Lahaia News)

Tori Richard, a brand known for its vibrant Hawaiian prints, designed a special collection titled “Island Vibes for Hawaii.” Proceeds from this collection were used to support local wildlife rescue and rehabilitation efforts in addition to wildfire relief. Tori Richard’s dedication to preserving Hawaii’s unique flora and fauna was evident in this thoughtful initiative.

BILLABONG

Billabong is part of the surf culture in Hawaii. (Photo Credit: Billabong)

Billabong, a brand deeply rooted in surf culture, organized “Surf for Hawaii” events at popular Hawaiian beaches. These events brought together surf enthusiasts and raised funds for wildfire relief through sponsorships and donations. Billabong’s dedication to their oceanic roots resonated with the Hawaiian community.

PLAE

Ryan Ringholz, founder and CEO of Honolulu-based footwear brand Plae, received personal requests for help in providing slippers or shoes to survivors of the Maui fires. Through a neighbor he was told that “busloads of people are coming in with nothing on their feet,” at Maui hospitals and shelters. Not only did Plae provide shoes for survivors who lost everything, but on Aug. 11, the brand announced in Footwear News that it would match any customer donations of Plae Rewards points with all proceeds going directly to the Hawaiian Community Foundation’s Maui Strong Fund.

Plae’s commitment to Hawaii. (Photo Credit: Plae)

OLUKAI

Olukai gives back to Hawaii. (Photo Credit: Olukai)

Footwear brand OluKai also focused on the crisis by donating 100 percent of their August 9th website and store sales to emergency and relief efforts. The brand’s charity, the Ama OluKai Foundation, is now focusing its donations on Maui (OluKai matched the first $200,000 in gifts to the foundation).

SKECHERS

Sketcher’s store located in Ohana helped donate shoes and clothing to survivors. (Photo Credit: Sketchers)

Skechers lost their Maui store due to the wildfires. On August 12th, the brand announced that it donated $250,000 to the Maui Strong Fund to support the recovery of affected communities. They also distributed approximately 20,000 pairs of footwear and 20,000 pieces of apparel, in addition to backpacks and socks.

As part of the global fashion community, UoF is proud to announce their donation to Hawaii Community Foundation’s Maui Strong Fund . If you haven’t done so already, please consider making a donation. Other organizations to consider donating to include:  Americares, Maui United Way, ‘Āina Momona and/or visit redcross.org, call 1-800-RED-CROSS (800-733-2767), or text the word REDCROSS to 90999 to make a $10 donation.

 

 

The Vital Role of Back-to-School Fashion in the Ever-Evolving Fashion Industry

- - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Business

Gen Z is embracing the Y2K trend. (Photo Credit: Getty Images for the NY Post)

As the sun-kissed days of summer begin to fade, a palpable excitement fills the air. It’s that time of year again – the season of fresh starts, eager minds and boundless possibilities. Back-to-school, a tradition as old as academia itself, has transformed into a runway for the fashion industry, a crucial showcase of innovation, style, and adaptability. In this era of constant change, where trends emerge and dissipate at the speed of a mouse click, back-to-school fashion stands as a testament to the fashion industry’s vitality and enduring relevance.

Back-to-school fashion acts as a playground where designers, retailers, and consumers alike come to play. It’s a symphony of colors, fabrics, and silhouettes, a canvas where creativity knows no bounds. The industry seizes this opportunity to flex its design muscles, concocting garments that mirror the hopes and aspirations of a new academic year. And has traditionally been a major marketing season for the industry. This year is no exception.

Olivia Rodrigo is a punk rock cutie. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

For the 2023/24 back-to-school season, designers have reimagined classic staples – from plaid skirts and varsity jackets to crisp button-down shirts – infusing them with a modern twist that reflects the evolving tastes of  Generation Z (1995 to 2009) and Generation Alpha (2010 to 2024). These reimagined classics become more than just clothing; they become statements of individuality and belonging. This fusion of timelessness and innovation is a reminder that fashion is, at its core, a celebration of the present, while embracing echoes of the past.

Bella Hadid’s preppy with a twist vibe will surely be a back-to-school hit. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

The back-to-school rush serves as a microcosm of the industry’s intricate dance with trends. It’s not merely about forecasting the next big thing; it’s about deciphering the intricate tapestry of consumer preferences. As students head back to their classrooms, they’re not just armed with textbooks – they’re equipped with an arsenal of trends, ready to express themselves in the ever-evolving language of style.

Industry leaders meticulously study the back-to-school market to identify patterns that offer insights into the future. The colors that capture attention, the fabrics that evoke emotion, and the styles that foster confidence all act as signposts, guiding the fashion world towards the next chapter of its narrative.

NUTURING BRAND LOYALTY AND IDENTITY

Nike back-to-school promotional looks. (Photo Credit: Nike)

Back-to-school fashion transcends the realm of aesthetics; it’s an exercise in identity formation. As students walk through the school gates clad in their carefully curated ensembles, they’re broadcasting more than just fashion choices – they’re showcasing their identities, their aspirations, and their stories. This emotional connection fosters brand loyalty that can last a lifetime.

For the industry, this loyalty isn’t just a fleeting affair; it’s an investment in a lifelong relationship. The brands that succeed in capturing the hearts of back-to-school shoppers often become woven into their stories, becoming trusted companions on their journey through life.

SUSTAINABILTY AND ETHICAL CONSIDERATIONS

Levi’s sustainable denim looks. (Photo Credit: Levi’s)

In recent years, the fashion industry has faced increasing scrutiny over its environmental and ethical practices. Back-to-school fashion serves as an opportunity for the industry to demonstrate its commitment to sustainability and responsible production. Brands that prioritize eco-friendly materials, ethical labor practices, and conscious consumption are not only shaping their own narratives but also contributing to a broader movement of positive change.

THE ECONOMIC BOOST OF BACK-TO-SCHOOL SHOPPING

Back-to-school fashion is an important sales and marketing tool for industry. (Photo Credit: SmartAsset)

The impact of back-to-school shopping on the economy is profound. In 2022, the back-to-school shopping season injected a surge of vitality into various sectors. From retail giants to local boutiques, the cash registers chimed in unison, contributing billions to the GDP. The ripple effect extends beyond traditional school supplies; it’s a time when electronics, clothing, accessories, and even home furnishing experience a surge in demand. The financial heartbeat of countless businesses races as they gear up to cater to the influx of eager shoppers.

According to the National Retail Federation and Prosper Insights & Analytics, “back-to-school spending is expected to reach an unparalleled $41.5 billion, up from $36.9 billion last year and the previous high of $37.1 billion in 2021. Back-to-college spending is expected to hit $94 billion, about $20 billion more than last year’s record.”

Air Jordan’s and straight leg denim is a back-to-school favorite. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

“Back-to-class shopping is one of the most important consumer shopping occasions of the year. Our research for 2023 shows American consumers are eager to jumpstart their back-to-school and college purchases early,” NRF President and CEO Matthew Shay said. “Retailers have been preparing for months to ensure they are well stocked with essential items that families and students need for the school year.”

Since 2003, the National Retail Federation has conducted a thorough survey on back-to-class shopping trends. This year’s research included 7,843 consumers and was fielded June 30-July 6 with a margin of error of plus or minus 1.1 percentage points.

Back-to-school shopping is well underway. According to the National Retail Federation, “as of early July, more than half (55%) of consumers who are buying for back-to-class said they have already started shopping. This is on par with last year, but is up from 44% in 2019, and is in line with the trend of consumers shopping earlier for major spending events. While consumers have started shopping early, as of early July, 85% said they still have at least half of their shopping left to do.”

Planned back to school Source NRF’s Annual 2023 Back to School Survey, conducted by Prosper Insights & Analytics

Families with children in elementary through high school plan to spend an average of $890.07 on back-to-school items this year, approximately $25 more than last year’s record of $864.35, and a new high. College students and their families are expected to spend an average of $1,366.95 per person, up from $1,199.43 last year, and a new record from the previous record of $1,200.32 in 2021. Since 2019, back-to-college spending has nearly doubled.

Kendeall Jenner’s chill Ninties Vibe. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

For many back-to-school consumers, the leading destinations are online, department stores and discount stores with the more creative and sustainably-minded, hitting up resale clothing shops or are making or upcycling their own clothes.  “Even though consumers plan to spend more on school and college-related items this year, they are still looking to find the best value and deals,” Prosper Executive Vice President of Strategy Phil Rist said. “Consumers are stretching their dollars by comparing prices, considering off-brand or store-brand items, and are more likely to shop at discount stores than last year.”

So tell us, what are your back-to-school wardrobe plans? Will you be making or upcycling your own clothes? Thrift shop hunting? Or going traditional: online, department store or mass merchant store?

MENSWEAR FASHION MONTH: HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE SPRING 2024 SHOWS

- - Fashion Shows

Looks from Dior Men’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Dior)

The Menswear Spring 2024 season has set the stage for a groundbreaking revolution in men’s fashion. Embracing fluidity, inclusivity, sustainability, and innovation, designers have created a mesmerizing symphony of sartorial liberation. The runway serves as a canvas where traditional notions of masculinity are reimagined and reshaped. As the seasons change and fashion evolves, these groundbreaking trends remind us that menswear is not just clothing; it’s an ever-evolving expression of identity, freedom, and creativity.

Throughout Europe, the runways were a playground of limitless possibilities. The season kicked off in London with shows running from June 10 -12th. Then the dapper set were off to Italy, first stop, Pitti Uomo in Florence from June 13-16th and then the excitement of Milan revved up from June 16-20th. Paris of course closed out the season with a bang from June 20-25th. What about New York? The city that never sleeps will show menswear along with Woman’s Fashion Week in early September.

Jacquemus’ Spring 2024 showcase at the Lake Versailles was a sight to behold. (Photo Credit: Lifestyle Asia)

Many designers at Men’s Fashion Week Spring 2024 pulled out all the stops for their show creating over-the-top viral moments that left industry insiders in awe, which is no easy fete. From closed down bridges (Louis Vuitton, Kenzo) to moving floors (Dior Men), and palace-side boat rides (Jacquemus), this season was a spectacle and display of power, wealth, and access reached new heights. So it’s no surprise that according to a tally of the most-viewed men’s shows of SS24 on Vogue Runway, Louis Vuitton came in first place. The show was a star-studded event as everyone anxiously awaited to see Pharrell Williams’s debut for Louis Vuitton. The show was an instant hit and Williams featured “Damoflage” which in Pharrell’s show notes was a fusion between Louis Vuitton’s iconic checkered Damier pattern and traditional camouflage fabric. “Damoflage” appeared across the collection, and truly capsulates Pharrell’s personal avant garde style.

A video of Pharell William’s debut Louis Vuitton Spring 2024 Show. (Video Courtesy of YouTube FF Chanel)

Before we delve into the trends for the Spring 2024 season, here is a brief history on Menswear Fashion Week.

HISTORY

In the realm of fashion, one event stands as a bastion of style and innovation – Men’s Fashion Week. Spanning across four fashion capitals – Milan, Paris, London, and New York – this bi-annual celebration of masculinity has a rich history that weaves together creativity, culture, and couture. Join UoF on a journey through time, as we explore the origins and evolution of Men’s Fashion Week in these iconic cities.

Milan – The Birth of Dapper Debonair

The year was 1971 when Milan hosted its first-ever Men’s Fashion Week, a pioneering moment that brought Italian elegance to the forefront. Spearheaded by visionaries like Giorgio Armani and Nino Cerruti, the Milanese runway showcased sharp tailoring, luxurious fabrics, and a newfound emphasis on minimalistic sophistication. Men’s fashion was no longer relegated to the shadows; it was a statement of confidence and poise.

Paris – The Haute Heritage

Stepping into the elegant city of Paris, we travel back to the origins of Haute Couture. In 1973, Paris welcomed its inaugural Men’s Fashion Week, further solidifying the city’s reputation as a timeless fashion capital. Designers like Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, and Jean-Paul Gaultier infused traditional French savoir-faire with a contemporary flair. Paris became synonymous with avant-garde and artistic expressions that transcended the ordinary.

London – Punks to Peacocks

Across the Channel, London’s Men’s Fashion Week story took a different turn. Emerging in 1984, it began as an edgy, rebellious movement with punk influences, thanks to designers like Vivienne Westwood. Over time, it evolved into a melting pot of diverse styles, from tailored Savile Row classics to eccentric, bold streetwear. London became a playground for experimentation, paving the way for a new generation of men’s fashion designers.

New York – American Dreams and Diversity

Crossing the Atlantic, we find ourselves in the bustling streets of New York. In 1995, the Big Apple hosted its inaugural Men’s Fashion Week, showcasing American dreams and diversity. Designers like Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, and Calvin Klein celebrated masculinity in all its forms – from rugged to refined. New York’s fashion week spotlighted the fusion of traditional American sportswear with cutting-edge contemporary designs.

As the years passed, Men’s Fashion Week in Milan, Paris, London, and New York transformed into a global phenomenon. The event expanded its reach beyond the fashion elite, with social media turning every spectator into a front-row participant. This democratization of fashion allowed designers to connect directly with their audience and opened doors for emerging talents from diverse backgrounds.

In recent years, a profound shift occurred in men’s fashion. Sustainability and ethical practices took center stage. Designers increasingly embraced eco-friendly materials, responsible manufacturing, and gender-neutral designs. Men’s Fashion Week became a platform to promote conscious consumption, making a positive impact on both the planet and society.

TRENDS

SCHOOL DAZE

Designers are feeling nostalgic this season as the schoolboy uniform trend makes its mark on the runway where you will find plenty of oversized blazers paired with tiny shorts.

A look from Louis Vuitton’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Valentino’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Neil Barrett’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Prada’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Paul Smith’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

VARSITY BLUES

Athletic inspired looks have come back this spring with a collegiate twist.

A look from Kenzo’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Wales Bonner’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Vetements’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Dsquared2’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Saul Mash’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Fashionista)

A look from Louis Vuitton’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

FLORAL DELIGHT

“Florals for spring? Groundbreaking” is one of the most famous quotes from Miranda Priestly, the notoriously difficult boss in The Devil Wears Prada, but this season the motif is truly fashion forward as 3-D floral appliques made there way onto the menswear runways from a quirky hat to a tailored shirt.

A look from Prada’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Valentino’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring 2024 Show. )(Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Alexander McQueen’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Dior Men’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

DEEP POCKETS

It’s time to get to work. Cargo pockets and utilitarian looks are making a splash both on the runway and off.

A look from Études’ Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Li-Ning’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Fashionista)

A look from Fendi’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from MSGM’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Junya Watanabe’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Prada’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

THE GOING OUT TOP

The halter top gets a refresh as the androgynous look gives a 70s meets Y2K vibe.

A look from Saint Laurent’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Acne Studio’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Egonlab’s Spring 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

So tell us, what is your favorite menswear trend for the spring 2024 season?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Announcing UoF’s Newest Lessons: Drafting Cut & Sew Knits – Part 1

- - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Business, Knits, Pattern Making, Retail Math, Sewing

Since launching the University of Fashion in 2008 the mission of the company has always been to preserve the art and craft of fashion design. Now, as we enter our 16th year in business, I am proud to say that we are not only holding to that mission, but have expanded into other areas of fashion education, including fashion retailing and merchandising, visual merchandising, fashion law, influencer marketing and the newest fashion industry area;  3D digital design.

We now have over 500 lessons in 13 different disciplines and we continue to add additional content to our library monthly. In fact, we recently filmed an entire cut & sew knit lesson series in response to student suggestions. From learning about knit fabrics and stretch ratios to drafting knit slopers – you asked & we delivered.

Your Knit Journey Starts Here

Poster frames from 2 lessons : Intro to Knits & Knit Fabric Principles and Introduction to Knit Fabrics preview                                      Knit Fabric Principles preview

The first step when designing a cut and sew knit garment is to learn about knit fabric. In our lesson entitled, Introduction to Knit Fabrics, we demonstrate the difference between woven and knit fabrics and how knit fabric is structured. You will learn the meaning of terms like knit and purl, wale and course and how a weft knit differs from a warp knit. We will teach you about different types of yarns and how knits are made so that you will make the best knit fabric choice for each of your designs.

In our lesson, Knit Fabric Principles, you will learn more about designing with knits. We’ll teach you all about the four characteristics of knit fabrics, what it means when a knit fabric has 1-way, 2-way or 4-way stretch, as well as the six categories of stretch ratio percentages, so that you will be able to draft your knit design for your knit fabric choice.

How to Draft Your Knit Slopers

poster frames of lessons Drafting a Women's Fitted Stable Knit T-shirt from Measurements & Drafting a Women's Relaxed Fit Knit T-shirt from Measurements

Drafting a Women’s Relaxed Fit Knit T-shirt from Measurements

Drafting a pattern from body measurements can be challenging, but not at University of Fashion. When you draft your T-shirt slopers from our lessons, Fitted Stable Knit T-shirt and the Relaxed Fit  T-shirt from Measurements, we provide downloadable charts and diagrams to help you locate all of the key measurement-taking points. We also provide downloadable worksheets so that you can easily record your measurements. The women’s fitted stable knit T-shirt sloper will become the basis for all of your knit designs for 1-way and 2 way stretch fabric.

Body measuring points diagram

Drafting a 4-Way Knit Stretch Sloper

Converting a Stable Knit T-shirt & Sleeve Sloper to 4-way Stretch Knit Sloper preview

Once you’ve drafted your Fitted Stable Knit T-shirt sloper, you’re ready to learn how to convert that sloper to a 4-way knit stretch sloper. Our lesson, Converting a Stable Knit T-shirt & Sleeve Sloper to a 4-way Stretch Knit Sloper, results in a sloper that can be used for all of your activewear, shapewear and swimwear garment designs.

Designing & Drafting a Cut & Sew Knit Legging & Unitard

poster frames for Drafting a Legging lesson and Drafting a Unitard lesson

Drafting a Women’s Knit Unitard preview                                   Drafting a Legging preview

By combining the 4-way Stretch Knit Sloper, drafted in our lesson Converting a Stable Knit T-shirt & Sleeve Sloper to 4-way Stretch Knit, with the legging drafted in our lesson Drafting a Legging, you’ll learn how to combine the two slopers to draft a unitard from our lesson, Drafting a Women’s Knit Unitard.

Designing a Cut & Sew Knit Hoodie

poster frame from lesson Drafting a Hooded Top

Drafting a Hooded Knit Top preview 

Using the sleeveless stable knit T-shirt sloper drafted in our lesson, Drafting a Women’s Fitted Stable Knit T-shirt from Measurements you will learn how to draft a hooded knit top made of a cotton/Lycra single knit jersey. We’ll teach you how to interpret a sketch to so that you can ascertain key measurements, such as the neck drop, the neck opening and the height and width of the hood.

Stay tuned for more cut & sew knit lessons: Drafting a Camisole with a Shelf Bra, a Racerback Halter Tank; and a knit neckline series that includes: how to draft an Asymmetric, Built-up, Boatneck, Collared, Cowl, Crewneck, Off  Shoulder, Scoop, Square, Surplice, Turtleneck and a V-Neckline.

 

 

BARBIE’S WORLD: A COSTUME DESIGNER’S DREAM COME TRUE

- - Current Topics in Fashion

Barbie movie’s main trailer.( Video Courtesy of YouTube·Warner Bros. Pictures)

If you asked some of today’s fashion designers what inspired them to pursue a career in fashion, odds are that they would tell you it was their Barbie doll. UoF’s founder, Francesca Sterlacci, is definitely one of them. Many young girls (and boys) often started out playing with baby dolls (or, if you grew up in the 1950s a Patty Play Pal), but once they got a look at Barbie, with her 11.5 inch human figure, 39″ bust, nipped-in waist, waterfall blonde ponytail, zebra-print swimsuit and kitten heels (known to collectors as “Ponytail Number One”)…they never went back! Launched by Mattel in 1959, Barbie took the world by storm with sales of 300,000 dolls in its first year of production. According to Mattel, there are in excess of 100,000 collectors of Barbie dolls worldwide today, with Düsseldorf collector, Bettina Dorfman (age 61) the Guinness Book of Records record-holder for her 18,500-strong Barbie collection that is currently worth $307,500.

Bay dolls and Patty Play Pal Doll

Kissy Dolls and a Patty Play Pal doll by Ideal (Image credit: Etsy.com)

 

Barbie dolls circa 1960s

Barbie dolls circa 1960s (Image credit: Etsy.com)

As the highly anticipated Barbie movie hits the big screen on July 21, 2023, it’s impossible not to reflect back at the doll that captured the imagination of so many. To learn more about Barbie’s evolution, representing 150 careers and more than 40 nationalities in the 64 years of her existence, read our blog post from July 2022 entitled, Barbiecore & Why Barbie is Not Just Some Dumb Blonde.

Today, over 90 percent of American girls between the ages of 3 to 12 have owned a Barbie doll. And even though, throughout the years, Barbie has assumed many professions, from doctor and archeologist, to rock star and computer engineer, for many she remains a stereotype. It therefore took incredible guts and vision for Margot Robbie to accept the iconic role of Barbie and for Greta Gerwig to direct it, especially in the #MeToo era. Thier decision carried a profound significance, as Robbie’s portrayal breaks stereotypes and challenges traditional gender norms.

The plot hinges on Margot Robbie Barbie (apparently there are other characters also named Barbie and Ken), being expelled from Barbie Land for being a less-than-perfect-looking doll. She somehow snaps out of her dollhouse mentality, suddenly gets flat feet and starts thinking about dying. She then embarks on a journey to the human world “to find true happiness” where she meets a range of differently abled and raced Barbies along the way, thereby conveying an empowering message.

Barbie’s fashion choices play a pivotal role in showcasing diversity and inclusivity through the work of a very talented costume designer (Jacqueline Durran) and her selective network of fashion industry designers that include, Stella McCartney, Christian Siriano and Iris van Herpen. Let’s dive into the fashion-forward world of Barbie and explore how these incredible designers brought Barbie’s glamorous big screen looks to life.

JACQUELINE DURRAN CREATES FASHION MAGIC

Margot Robbie as Barbie in the new Barbie film. (Photo Credit: Warner Bros. Pictures)

Margot Robbie as Barbie in the new Barbie film. (Photo Credit: Warner Bros. Pictures)

Barbie has always been renowned for her impeccable fashion sense, setting trends and inspiring millions of fans worldwide. In the movie, Barbie’s wardrobe undergoes a remarkable evolution, reflecting the diverse and ever-changing world we live in. The fashion choices presented on-screen celebrate body positivity, inclusivity and the importance of self-expression. Summer 2022, when the movie was being filmed, became the summer of Barbiecore, as every celebrity, It-Girl, and social-media darling dressed in head-to-toe pink in anticipation of the Barbie movie. The trend continued into 2023.

Fun Fact: Barbie’s home was inspired by the midcentury modernism designs found in Palm Springs, California and the iconic Barbie Dreamhouses. And, that the making of Barbie Land caused an international shortage of pink paint?

Barbie’s disco look. (Photo Credit: Warner Bros. Pictures)

Barbie and Ken’s western looks. (Photo Credit: Warner Bros. Pictures)

Before delving into the collaborative efforts, it is important to acknowledge Jacqueline Durran’s incredible talent as a costume designer. With a portfolio that includes award-winning work in films like “Anna Karenina” and “Little Women,” Durran has established herself as a visionary in the industry. Her keen eye for detail, historical accuracy, and her ability to craft characters through costume, make her a sought-after collaborator for directors and fashion houses alike.

Speaking of costume designers, we’d like to take this opportunity to give a shout-out to costume designer Ruth E. Carter and the launch of her new book “The Art of Ruth E. Carter: Costuming Black History and the Afrofuture, from Do the Right Thing to Black Panther.” Carter is the first Black woman to win an Oscar for costume design, the first Black woman to win two Oscars in any category and the second costume designer to get a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. It’s time for Hollywood and the fashion industry to pay attention to pay inequity, specifically between costume designers and their peers; production designers and fashion designers.

COLLABORATING WITH FASHION DESIGNERS

Barbie’s classic swimsuit look. (Photo Credit: Warner Bros. Pictures)

For the 2023 Barbie movie, Jacqueline Durran decided to collaborate with fashion industry designers, recognizing the significance of Barbie as a style icon.  Together, they created a seamless fusion of high fashion and cinematic storytelling. Here are a few designers who brought Barbie’s looks to life.

Renowned for her commitment to sustainable fashion, Stella McCartney joined forces with Jacqueline Durran to bring eco-conscious design to the Barbie movie. McCartney’s signature elegance and ethical sensibilities perfectly complement Barbie’s message of empowerment and environmental responsibility. Expect to see stunning ensembles crafted from innovative sustainable fabrics and adorned with McCartney’s distinctive touch.

Known for his bold and inclusive designs, Christian Siriano’s collaboration with Jacqueline Durran injects a vibrant and diverse energy into the Barbie movie. Siriano’s mastery of draping, impeccable craftsmanship, and his celebration of different body types make him an ideal partner for dressing Barbie and her friends. Anticipate a range of show-stopping couture gowns and fierce yet playful ensembles that showcase Siriano’s unique flair.

Pushing the boundaries of fashion and technology, Iris van Herpen brings her avant-garde sensibilities to the Barbie movie in collaboration with Jacqueline Durran. Van Herpen’s mesmerizing designs, often inspired by nature and science, add a touch of otherworldly magic to the film. Expect breathtakingly intricate and ethereal costumes, blending traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge techniques, such as 3D printing and laser cutting.

The collaborative efforts between Jacqueline Durran and her chosen team of renowned fashion designers, promises a fashion spectacle like no other. Through their unique creative vision, Stella McCartney, Christian Siriano, and Iris van Herpen contribute their artistry and distinct design perspectives to Barbie’s world.  As audiences await the release of the Barbie movie, they can look forward to a dazzling display of fashion magic borne from the synergy between Jacqueline Durran and these esteemed designers.

Barbie (Margot Robbie) and Ken (Ryan Gosling) rollerblade looks. (Photo Credit: Warner Bros. Pictures)

So, tell us, how excited are you to see the Barbie Movie?

 

 

 

 

FLOWER POWER: THE HOTTEST SUMMER TREND

- - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Education, Fashion Tips, Trends

From left to right: Prada, Chanel, and Acne Studios. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

Whether it was the 1700s author Jonathan Swift, Winston Churchill, Mark Twain or Steven King who is credited with saying “everything old is new again“, the quote perfectly sums up the fashion trend cycle. For the past few seasons Y2K fashion has been ruling the runway and blowing up our Instagram and TikTok feeds, specifically, the flower embellishment trend. For summer 2023, the Y2K handmade flower, popularized in the early aughts by Carrie Bradshaw (of Sex and the City fame) is back. This trend is growing (no pun intended) and taking the fashion world by storm.

Carrie Bradshaw had a love for oversized flowers. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

From delicate lace and chiffon to bold leather and paper, handmade flowers are the rage. Rosettes, camellias, carnations and abstract versions thereof, are all timeless motifs that can be incorporated into any outfit. At UOF, we provide lessons on how to create these handmade embellishments to liven up any garment or accessory. We’re seeing them on everything…from basic t-shirts to little black dresses. Here’s some inspiration:

ROMANTIC AND ELEGANT

A look from Dries Van Noten’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

Whether you choose to adorn a little summer dress or a blouse with delicate flower details, this flower power trend is perfect for adding a touch of sophistication and grace to your wardrobe.

VERSATILE AND ADAPTABLE

A look from Sandy Liang’s Fall 2023 Show. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree)

Another great thing about adding flowers is that they are incredibly versatile and adaptable. Whether you prefer bold, statement-making flowers or more subtle and understated versions, there’s a style and size for every taste. Use them as a simple accent, or go all-out with an outfit that’s covered in them.

PLAYFUL AND FUN

A look from Blumarine’s Spring 2023 Show. (Photo Credit: Cosmopolitan)

Add flowers strategically to certain areas of a garment, or on sandals, shoes, handbags and hats. Handmade flowers are guaranteed to put a smile on your face and will add a touch of whimsy to any outfit.

AN ARRAY OF COLORS

Rocking Prada’s Spring 2023 Collection on the streets. (Photo: Credit Imaxtree)

Another idea is to use flowers in multi-colors or in different fabrics and other materials, like plastic, faux leather, patent leather or paper. Whether you prefer soft pastels or bold jewel tones, or, how about some psychedelic-colored flowers?

SUSTAINABLE AND ECO-FRIENDLY

Roomshop Rosette Scrunchies. (Photo Credit: Anthropology)

How about making flowers with upcycled materials? Or for the eco-friendly designer, out of sustainable and natural fibers? It’s a great way to support these efforts.

CELEBRITIES EMBRACE FLOWER POWER

Celebs around the globe have been rocking the flower embellishment trend. Here are some samples:

Actress Zendaya at the 2023 Screen Actors Guild Awards. (Photo Credit: L’Officiel)

A slew of actresses wearing assorted flowers on the red carpet. (Photo Credit: Getty Images. Collage Credit: InStyle)

Harry Styles jumped on the flower trend for the 2023 Brit Awards. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

As the flower embellishment trend continues to gain momentum, why not get in on the action by learning how to make your own handmade versions? Watch these lessons:



SO, TELL US, WILL YOU BE JUMPING ON THE FLOWER POWER TREND?

UNIVERSITY OF FASHION COMING ATTRACTIONS 2023

- - Draping, Fashion School, Holiday Gift Subscription, Pattern Making, Special Offer

 

fashion illustration of pants

UoF’s upcoming pant-drafting lessons  (Illustration credit: Steven Broadway)

You asked and we’re delivering. For the past two years we have been collecting your requests for certain new lessons. We’ve heard from teachers, students, schools, libraries, associations and individual subscribers. We compiled a list of the most requested lessons and set out to film them, specifically, drafting pants, jumpsuits, cut & sew knits, coats and cape, 3D design and of course, draping. We’ve been hard at work – planning, scripting, filming and are in the process of editing over 50 new lessons to be added to our existing library of over 500 fashion educational videos.

We’d like to give you a sneak of what you can expect in 2023, but before we do…remember…you only have 3 more days to take advantage of our once-yearly discount offer of $40 off a yearly subscription (was $189/now $149 – using promo code WIN1 ) and/or $5 off the first month of a monthly subscription (was $19.95/now $14.95 – using  promo code WIN2). Sign yourself up (you’re worth it!) OR how about a unique gift for that special fashionista in your life?

To get in on the the discount click this link to get started: https://www.universityoffashion.com/holiday-offer/ Remember this offer expires 1/1/23 and doesn’t happen again until next year. Really!

 

PANT & TROUSER LESSONS

Among the many requests we received from our fans were for more trouser and pants lessons, so we filmed: how to draft bell bottoms, palazzo pants (both gathered and flat waisted), a culotte, a pleated trouser and a jumpsuit.

 

UoF’s upcoming pant drafting series-Gathered Waist Palazzo Pant & Culotte (Illustration credit: Steven Broadway)

 

CUT & SEW KNIT LESSONS

Included in the new batch of lessons that we’ll be rolling out throughout 2023 are a series of cut & sew knit-drafting lessons, starting with learning how to draft a fitted T-shirt from measurements. This knit sloper will become the foundation for many of your future knit designs. We also added a lesson on how to turn the sloper into a unitard/catsuit.

Our subscribers have also asked us for a lesson on how to draft an easy T-shirt from measurements and so we filmed: Drafting a Relaxed Fit T-shirt (with 2 different necklines: a crew neck and a cross-over V-neck).

KNIT NECKLINE LESSONS

What started out as a request for a lesson on how to draft a hoodie, turned into an entire knit neckline series e’ve also created a series on how to draft a variety knit necklines, using the fitted T-shirt sloper as the foundation. We’ve created 17 neckline lessons all together. Here’s a sample:

(Three of 17 upcoming neckline-drafting lesson series: Off Shoulder Gathered Cuff  – Hoodie – Surplice Wrap)

 

COAT & CAPE LESSONS 

We’ve had many requests for lined coats, so we filmed: how to draft a wrap coat and a hooded cape.

(UoF’s upcoming wrap coat & cape lessons – Illustrations by Steven Broadway)

 

ADVANCED DRAPING LESSONS

Our subscribers absolutely love our draping lessons. And so, we’ve combined several new details, such as how to draft multi-tiered flounces, fit and flare princess-seamed dresses and how to create a handkerchief hem. We hope you enjoy these lessons. They can work for day or evening depending on the fabric you choose.

UoF’s Multi-tiered Flounce Dress (Illustrated by Steven Broadway & Handkerchief Hem Dress – (Illustrated by  Miguel Angel Reyes)

 

3D DESIGN SOFTWARE LESSONS: BROWZWEAR & CLO 3D

We’ll continue to add additional Browzwear 3D design lessons and will introduce a new CLO 3D series.

Stay tuned for these and other lessons throughout 2023. Hope you’re as excited as we are!

INTRODUCING OUR NEW 3D DESIGN INSTRUCTORS

- - Fashion Education, Instructor Spotlight, Technology

From our first lesson – Browzwear: Introduction to 3D Design & VStitcher

If you have been reading the University of Fashion blog for the past 4 years, then you know how bullish we are about 3D design technology as yet another tool in the arsenal of fashion designers and retailers. If you haven’t then you may want to read our past posts: Augmented Reality (AR) for Fashion Retailing, Artificial Intelligence (AI) for Fashion, and The 3D Revolution Parts 1, 2 and 3  from 2019.

As fashion companies are now expanding their workspaces to include true-to-life 3D in the areas of design, product development, sales & marketing, we are thrilled to announce the addition of 3D design as a new learning category to our existing 500+ video lesson library.

Those already working in the world of 3D digital fashion design all agree, that without a solid hands-on foundation in the other 3Ds – draping, digital drawing, drafting, plus sewing, you are just an imposter. According to Amy Sperber, a 3D-user and Assistant Professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology:

“Foundational knowledge of grain, fabric behavior and construction variations are essential at being a competent 3D fashion design software user. The challenge for fashion designers with little digital background is that the interfaces may be intimidating at first. Those with a working knowledge of Illustrator will find familiar tool experiences in the 2D pattern making portions of 3D software. The next generation of fashion designers will need to be technically creative and digitally fluid.”

For our 3D design series, we recruited two top instructors, Brittany Gray and Iris Hopkins, who are both currently working in the industry using Browzwear 3D software. We will also be adding lessons in CLO 3D in the future so stay tuned. Meanwhile, we thought that you would be interested in hearing from Brittany and Iris about their journey into 3D design and get a sneak peek at their first lessons for us. They are both working on a series of lessons that we will be rolling out this year.

 

MEET BRITTANY GRAY

Brittany Gray instructor

Brittany Gray – 3D design instructor at UoF (photo credit: Brittany Gray)

“I was first introduced to 3D/virtual prototyping in my junior year of college. I went to the University of North Carolina Greensboro, who was partnered with VF corporation. VF heavily used 3D so we adapted it into our curriculum. At the time, I only knew the basics, but was on the hunt for an internship that was required for me to graduate. Walmart corporation reached out to my university, eager to hear that students were learning 3D and were looking for a student to intern as a 3D Technical Designer. Though I was reluctant to apply due to my very basic knowledge at the time, with the support of my instructor Anne Woods, I applied. I promised them that if they accepted me for the internship, by the time I needed to relocate to Bentonville Arkansas, I would have mastered the program. Two weeks went by and I received the offer as the very first 3D Technical Design Intern for Walmart Corporate. I worked in the software everyday leading up to my internship. Once I arrived in Arkansas, I fell in love with the flexibility of the 3D workflow, so much so that I decided to stay in 3D and later relocated to New York to be a 3D designer at The Moret Group to jumpstart their 3D journey. Now I am currently working at Under Armour and love the ability to assist my teammates in their 3D journey’s as well.”

To learn more about Brittany, click these links:

https://browzwear.com/indie-designer-spotlight-brittney-gray/

https://www.universityoffashion.com/instructor/brittney-grey/

LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/in/brittneygray3d

Brittany Gray’s first lesson for UoF

MEET IRIS HOPKINS

Iris Hopkins – 3D instructor at UoF

Iris Hopkins – 3D instructor at UoF (Photo credit: Iris Hopkins)

“I have always had an interest in bridging the gap between the traditional way of pattern making and innovation and 3D seems so fitting in my efforts. As a professional in this business, our goals are to get quality product to market faster with a focus on waste management through less sampling, eco-friendly materials, and upcycling. I want to be a part of a new generation of pattern makers who understands these points while remaining true to the craft through technology and innovation. In 3D, I have the ability to utilize all of this knowledge and skillsets in one place. My keen interest in 3D has led me down a path of exploration for about a year, teaching myself Browzwear VStitcher, followed by an enrollment in a five-week extensive learning program. Through my experience, I have found that the worlds of traditional pattern making and innovation do meet and connect in 3D and it is a great skill to have.”

 For more about Iris and her 10+ years in the fashion industry click this link: https://www.universityoffashion.com/instructor/iris-hopkins/ and check out her work on IG @imhswim

Iris Hopkins – first lesson in 3D for UoF

Iris Hopkins – second lesson in 3D for UoF

Our new lessons require access to Browzwear VStitcher software. Software Licenses, BW support and access to the BW community of experts are available through this link: https://go.browzwear.com/indies-application. In the “I was referred by” field, type University of Fashion.

So, tell us, how interested are you in learning 3D design?

UNIVERSITY OF FASHION’S CERTIFICATE PROGRAM GOES LIVE

- - Fashion Education
UoF Certificate(Image credit: example of University of Fashion Certificate of Completion)
Our subscribers had been asking us about how they could earn a certificate upon completion of our lessons. We get it, who wants to invest hours of time and money and not get a reward? Well, at last, and after hours of computer programming (and money), we are proud to announce the launch our University of Fashion Certificate of Completion program, available to all our paid subscribers.
Sure you can attend fashion school and pay thousands (that is if you are lucky enough to get accepted), but for those in the ‘know’, why not take advantage of 500+ lessons all taught by top fashion college professors and industry pros, learn at your own pace any time of day or night, in the privacy of your own home, rewind and replay a lesson over and over until you get it, at a fraction of the cost of fashion school?
Ask any of our subscribers, UoF’s customer service is top notch! Have a question about one of our lessons? No problem, our teachers are ready, willing and able to answer them within 24 hours. We always love hearing from our students.

Now You Can Earn a UoF Certificate for Your Efforts


(Image credit: University of Fashion subscriber draping and sewing a dress)

How UoF’s Certificate of Completion Program Works

(Image credit: An example of a  student’s My Learning page – listing lessons ‘in-progress’ & 100% completed)

All University of Fashion paid subscribers can now receive a Certificate of Completion for any and all completed lessons and lectures. You can track your individual progress toward earning a certificate by clicking on the My Learning tab on the left side of your Account page. Here you can track all of your lessons and your lesson progress.

(Image credit: University of Fashion student calculating fabric consumption & costing a garment)

 

Is there a Cost for a UoF Certificate of Completion?

No. There is NO extra charge for a University of Fashion Certificate of Completion. If you are a paid monthly or yearly subscriber and completed one of our lessons, you are eligible to obtain a certificate. Our certificate program just launched and we have subscribers who have already earned 20+ certificates!

(Image credit:Example of a student’s My Learning page showing lesson discipline, certificate & date earned)

 

Benefits of a UoF Certificate of Completion

Beyond that feeling of accomplishment at having learned and mastered a new subject or technique, there are many other benefits to earning our Certificates:

  • Present your certificates to prospective employers, along with examples of your completed draped, drafted and sewn projects
  • Include UoF certificates to your portfolio for job application and college admission purposes
  • Frame your certificates as proof of your competence in multidisciplines to your clients
  • Export and email your certificates to your instructors for extra credit
  • Prove to your employer that you have up-skilled in a particular area
  • Demonstrate to a school administrator proof of your competence and proficiency in teaching additional subjects

Spread the word! Start completing lessons and printing out your UoF certificates. Let us know how many you’ve earned!

Winter’s Coming: Why Not Draft & Make Your Own Coat or Cape?

- - New University of Fashion Lessons, Pattern Making
poster frame for Wrap Coat lesson

University of Fashion’s new lesson: Drafting a Women’s Wrap Coat

The temperature is dropping, the leaves are falling and you’ve been looking for your next challenge – well, here it is! Why not draft and make your own coat or cape? We have just added a wrap coat lesson and a cape lesson to make that happen. Our wrap coat lesson teaches you how to draft a women’s belted wrap coat with an oversized collar, set-in sleeves and patch pockets. You will also learn how to draft a full lining for the coat. Wrap coats are great. No button and button closures to deal with (sigh!) and it is one of the most casual coats to wear. Whether you choose a soft wool gabardine or a medium weight cashmere, or even a velvet so you can wear it for formal occasions, a wrap coat is versatile. If you are a skilled sewer, why not even consider making it in faux suede?

In the lesson you will learn how to interpret our wrap coat sketch to determine such things as: the coat’s length, the collar width, the pocket size and placement, the belt width, and the amount of wrap underlay and coat sweep.

sketch of women wearing a wrap coat

University of Fashion wrap coat illustration by Steven Broadway

image of drafting a women's cape lesson

University of Fashion’s new lesson: Click to view the lesson preview: Drafting a Women’s Cape Coat

Our women’s cape coat lesson includes a hood and a full lining. You will learn how to interpret the cape sketch, starting with the cape’s length, its sweep, the pocket placement, hood height, button and buttonhole placement and how to draft a lining.

Capes can be formal or casual when made in either velvet, or a wool and wool plaid. And if you’re up to it, why not make it reversible, with one side out of a water-repellant material and the other side a lightweight wool? There are so many design options with this style. Let your imagination take over!

It All Starts with the Sloper Library

poster frames for lessons teaching how to convert basic slopers to coat slopers

University of Fashion lessons on how to convert Basic Slopers to Suit & Coat Slopers

As every smart designer/pattern maker knows, it all starts with the right slopers. Our coat and cape lessons are based off the slopers that we teach on the University of Fashion website. Starting with sleeves: how to draft a basic straight sleeve sloper from measurements, then how convert it to a fitted sleeve, then how to convert that fitted sleeve to a suit sleeve.

For the body, we start with drafting a basic bodice from measurements, and then convert it to a torso sloper. From there we convert the torso sloper to a suit jacket sloper, and then the suit jacket sloper gets converted to a coat body & sleeve sloper. Once your sloper library is complete, you’ll have a ball designing coats (and suits) to your heart’s content!

 

Share your cape and coats with us on Instagram @uofprojects. We’d love to see how creative you can be!

50 YEARS OF HIP HOP: A FASHION REVOLUTION

- - Current Topics in Fashion

In their kente cloth kufi hats, custom varsity jackets, tights and dookie chains, Salt-N-Pepa were committed hip-hop style maximalists. (Photo Credit: Janette Beckman)

In the chronicles of pop culture history, few movements have had a lasting impact as profound as Hip Hop. Emerging from the streets of New York City’s South Bronx in the 1970s, Hip Hop transcended its musical origins to become a cultural juggernaut. Its influence on fashion, in particular, has been nothing short of revolutionary. As we celebrate 50 years of Hip Hop, it’s a fitting time to explore how this dynamic art form shaped and continues to inspire the world of fashion.

To truly understand the relationship between Hip Hop and fashion, we must first take a journey back to where it all began. In the early 1970s, the South Bronx was a hotbed of creative energy, despite its struggling socio-economic conditions. It was here that Hip Hop first sprouted its roots, encompassing not only music but also dance, graffiti art, and fashion. It was a form of self-expression and empowerment for the marginalized youth of the area.

Accessorized with a boombox the size of a tombstone, LL Cool J could afford to dress down. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

The street fashion that emerged in the early Hip Hop scene was rooted in resourcefulness, borrowing elements from sportswear and urban street style. Oversized shirts, tracksuits, sneakers, and prominent logos became the signature look. But it wasn’t just about the clothes; it was about how they were worn and the attitude that came with it. This was the beginning of what would become the Hip Hop fashion revolution.

THE EVOLUTION OF HIP HOP

Video: 50 Years of Hip Hop & High Fashion: The Evolution from Streetwear to Runways. Video Credit REVOLT on YouTube.

Hip Hop fashion evolved in tandem with the music, artists, and the culture surrounding it. It quickly became a means of asserting individuality and challenging norms. Baggy pants, hoodies, baseball caps, and Timberland boots became iconic pieces in the Hip Hop wardrobe. Gold chains, large hoop earrings, and accessories became essential for making a statement.

In the late ’80s and early ’90s, the emergence of high-end luxury fashion brands in Hip Hop was pivotal. Artists like Run-DMC were at the forefront of incorporating brands like Adidas into their style, while others embraced designer labels like Gucci, Versace, and Fendi. This fusion of high fashion and street style was groundbreaking and set the stage for a new era of Hip Hop fashion.

PIONEERS OF HIP HOP FASHION

Jason Mizell (also known as Jam Master Jay), Darryl McDaniels and Joseph Simmons of Run DMC attend the WWDMagic tradeshow, 1998. (Photo Credit: WWD)

Several designers have played significant roles in shaping Hip Hop fashion over the years. They understood the unique blend of street and luxury, and their creations reflected the culture of the movement. Here are a few standout names:

DAPPER DAN

Dapper Dan in the front row at Gucci RTW Spring 2018 show. (Photo Credit: WWD)

Dapper Dan is known as the “father of Hip Hop fashion,” Dapper Dan was a trailblazer in Harlem who created custom, high-end clothing inspired by luxury brands. His designs were worn by legendary artists like LL Cool J, Salt-N-Pepa, and Eric B. & Rakim.

KARL KANI

A Karl Kani advertisement in 1995 of 2Pac and his crew. (Photo Credit: The Source Magazine)

Karl Kani is credited with popularizing baggy jeans and bringing streetwear to the forefront of Hip Hop fashion. His brand became synonymous with the West Coast Hip Hop scene and the rise of gangsta rap.

Tupac Shakur in a Karl Kani denim suit and t-shirt attends the premiere of Poetic Justice in Beverly Hills, 1993. (Photo Credit: WWD)

SEAN JOHN

Jennifer Lopez (wearing Sean John) and Sean John at the Video Music Awards in 2001. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

When we talk about Sean John, we’re talking about the undeniable influence of Sean “Diddy” Combs in the world of fashion. Launched in 1998, Sean John became an instant sensation by fusing urban style with luxury. The brand’s runway shows were events in their own right, showcasing the marriage of streetwear and high-end fashion. Sean John’s signature velour tracksuits, puffy vests, and blinged-out accessories epitomized the early 2000s Hip Hop style.

A look from Sean John’s Fall 2000 Collection. (Photo Credit: WWD)

BABY PHAT

Alicia Keys in Baby Phat in New York City, 2003. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

If there’s a brand that defined early 2000s Hip Hop femininity, it’s Baby Phat. Launched in 1999 by the inimitable Kimora Lee Simmons, this fashion house embodied both style and empowerment. Baby Phat’s logo-laden, glam-meets-streetwear aesthetic was a favorite among female artists, including Missy Elliott, Lil’ Kim, and Alicia Keys. Kimora’s influence extended beyond design; she was a pioneering figure in the movement towards body positivity and diversity in fashion.

TOMMY HILFIGER

Kidada Jones in Tommy Jeans at the Tommy Tour bus wrap up party at Morton’s Restaurant in Los Angeles, 1997. (Photo Credit: WWD)

Tommy Hilfiger’s brand achieved iconic status in the ’90s thanks to endorsements from artists like Aaliyah and Snoop Dogg, solidifying its place in Hip Hop fashion history.

VIRGIL ABLOH

Kanye West and Virgil Abloh were powerful bridges between rap and luxury fashion. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

The late Virgil Abloh’s work with Off-White and Louis Vuitton was instrumental in bridging the gap between luxury fashion and streetwear in the 21st century. His impact on Hip Hop fashion cannot be overstated.

PHARRELL WILLIAMS

Pharrell WIlliams changed the culture of fashion & music. (Photo Credit: Snobhop)

Pharrell Williams is a multifaceted visionary known for his versatility as a musician, producer, and fashion icon, has left an indelible mark on Hip Hop fashion. His brand, Billionaire Boys Club (BBC), and its subsidiary, Ice Cream, have blended streetwear with a futuristic, space-age aesthetic. He has collaborated with iconic brands such as Adidas and Chanel, and his ability to blur the lines between high fashion and streetwear has made him a true pioneer in the industry. Pharrell’s vision continues to push boundaries and inspire a new generation of fashion enthusiasts as the Creative Director for Louis Vuitton Menswear.

SO MUCH MORE THAN JUST MUSIC…..

Rozonda “Chili” Thomas, Lisa “Left Eye” Lopez and Tionne “T Boz” Watkins attend Clive Davis pre-grammy party in New York, 1992. (Photo Credit: WWD)

Over the past 50 years, Hip Hop has transcended music to become a cultural phenomenon that’s influenced the world in ways few could have predicted. Its impact on fashion has been profound, giving rise to a vibrant and dynamic fusion of street and luxury wear that continues to shape the industry. The pioneers of Hip Hop fashion, from Dapper Dan to Virgil Abloh, have created enduring legacies that celebrate the essence of self-expression and defiance. As we look back on this half-century journey, we see that Hip Hop’s unique style and swagger are here to stay, leaving an indelible mark on the world of fashion. Hip Hop fashion is more than just clothing; it’s a reflection of a movement that changed the world.

So, tell us, what music genre influences your style most?

Fashion Unites Against Terrorism

- - Current Topics in Fashion

A woman lights candles in honor of victims of the Hamas attacks during a vigil. The sign reads Out of Words. (Photo Credit: AP)

October 7th was a grim reminder for those of us who witnessed the terror and horror of 9/11 first hand and its impact, not only on New York City’s fashion industry, but the world at large. The recent attack on Israeli civilians by Hamas that involved rockets, drones, ground infiltrations and the taking of hostages, was an act of pure evil. Retaliation was swift and continues to result in pain and sorrow for both Israelis and Palestinians.

Depending on a country’s political interests, historical ties and moral values, they have responded to Hamas’ October attack on Israel – and Israel’s response –  in different ways. Some countries stand with Israel, some stand with Palestine, while some try to mediate or remain neutral. Most though are in agreement that a release of the hostages, a ceasefire and humanitarian aid to Gaza are critical. As we process the complexity of the situation with empathy, we are reminded how fashion, as a form of self-expression, has always tried to unite. Past runway shows are evidence of this and the perfect vehicle to support or condemn social issues, whether it be animal rights, gay rights, women’s rights, size inclusivity, political oppression or other causes. So, you can be sure that the upcoming Fall 2025 shows will feature a combination of condemnation and/or support for one side or the other, but most probably there will be a rallying cry for “give peace a chance”. Let’s all hope it works. We want to see a just and lasting agreement between Israelis and Palestinians that will bring an end to the occupation, and peace, security and prosperity for Israelis and Palestinians alike.

The Global Fashion Industry Takes a Stand Against Terrorism

The fashion industry is a global enterprise and therefore a majority of fashion houses, rather than take sides, have taken a stand by denouncing terrorism and calling for an end to violence and hatred. Brands have expressed solidarity and support for the victims of the conflict, on both sides. For example, Stella McCartney posted a message on her Instagram saying: “My heart breaks for the people and families who are being senselessly killed and brutalised right now. This is terrorism. You do not need to be Israeli or Palestinian to see that this is wrong. I stand with those around the world who seek peace and justice for all.” She also shared a link to a petition by Avaaz, a global civic movement, that urges world leaders to intervene and stop the bloodshed.

British fashion designer Victoria Beckham also took to social media to share her thoughts on the situation at hand. Her statement read: “In this time of crisis, my thoughts are with the innocent victims of the recent unjust and barbaric attacks. These acts of brutal terrorism have left both Israeli and Palestinian civilians suffering. As human beings, we can’t help but be deeply affected by these harrowing acts. As a mother and as a woman, seeing the pain, suffering and loss of life on both sides is truly horrific. I stand with those around the world who seek an end to the violence and hatred. I stand for peace.”

The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) issued its own statement, noting that it “stands with those determined to fight terrorism”. The organization added: “We mourn the loss of life and pray for the cycle of violence to end for a lasting peace.”

Zara store in Jerusalem. (Photo Credit: AFP)

One of the most immediate actions taken by some global fashion and beauty brands was to close their stores in Israel temporarily, to protect their employees and customers. For instance, Inditex, the owner of Zara, announced the closing of its 84 stores in Israel until further notice. Other brands that followed suit included H&M, Mango, Sephora, and L’Oréal. These brands have also expressed their hope for a swift end to the conflict and a return to normalcy.

American Eagle’s billboard in Times Square supporting Israel. (Photo Credit: American Eagle)

Other brands decided to take a stand with Israel. American Eagle made a bold statement of its own, replacing its flagship billboard in New York City’s Times Square with an image of the Israeli flag. A picture of the billboard was shared by the company’s chief marketing officer Craig Brommers in a post on LinkedIn.

One of many posts from Shoshanna Gruss. (Photo Credit: @Shoshanna via Instagram)

Shoshanna Gruss, the designer behind her contemporary namesake label Shoshanna, posted her support to Israel and condemned the brutal attacks. On October 12th, Shoshanna donated 100% of her online sales to Magen David Adom, Israel’s national medical emergency, disaster, ambulance and blood service. The designer also posted, “The silence from the fashion industry is deafening, We stand with Israel now & forever”.

Tory Burch, the executive chairman and chief creative officer of the eponymous brand, and Pierre-Yves Roussel, the brand’s CEO, addressed employees in an internal letter last week. “We condemn terrorism and hatred in all their forms. The heart-wrenching reports and brutal images of the terrorist attack in Israel last weekend have deeply affected us,” they wrote. The Tory Buch brand will support those affected through two organizations: the International Committee of the Red Cross, dedicated to humanitarian aid, and the Alliance for Middle East Peace (ALLMEP), an organization focused on promoting peace in the region. “We will make a personal donation of $100,000 and a $150,000 donation on behalf of the company. Additionally, Tory Burch LLC will match any employee donations to ALLMEP.”

Chanel’s executive chairman, Alain Wertheimer, and CEO Leena Nair shared an internal note that was circulated on social media last week. “We have all been horrified and deeply saddened by the terrorist attacks against Israeli citizens. The war and resulting humanitarian crisis are a tragedy.” The internal note also stated that Chanel was donating $4 million to organizations engaged in providing humanitarian assistance.

A spokesperson for Capri Holdings Ltd., the parent company of Michael Kors, Jimmy Choo, and Versace, said, “We are deeply saddened by the recent attacks in Israel. Capri Holdings is currently exploring various organizations to which we can contribute to provide humanitarian assistance to those affected.”

Hearst, the parent company of Harper’s Bazaar, pledged $300,000 to various organizations, including UNICEF, Save the Children, and Doctors Without Borders. These organizations are working on the ground to deliver essential supplies and services, such as food, water, medicine, shelter, and education, to the people in need.

Other fashion companies that have made donations include PVH Corp., the owner of Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger; Tapestry Inc., the owner of Coach and Kate Spade; Ralph Lauren Corp.; Levi Strauss & Co.; Gap Inc.; and VF Corp., the owner of Vans and The North Face. These companies have also encouraged their employees and customers to join them in supporting these causes.

(Left to Right) Galia Lahav and Pnina Tornai both announced they are not showing their collections amid the harrowing attacks in Israel. (Photo Credits: Getty Images)

Some Israeli designers have been active in raising awareness and funds for their country. For example, Galia Lahav, a bridal and eveningwear designer, launched a campaign called #StandWithIsrael, and donated 10 percent of her online sales to Magen David Adom. Pnina Tornai, another bridal designer, also donated 10 percent of her sales to Magen David Adom, and posted a video on Instagram urging her followers to do the same. Both designers canceled their Bridal Fashion Week Runway Shows in New York as a sign of solidarity with their country. “Our hearts are heavy, and our thoughts are with all those affected by this devastating conflict,” said Lahav. “We hope for a future where we can come together to celebrate the beauty and creativity that define our brand.”

Other Israeli designers who have also shown their support include Alon Livne, Nili Lotan, Ronen Chen, Dorit Bar Or, Maya Reik, Shani Zimmerman, Yael Sonia, Kobi Halperin, Nili Ben Simon, Shai Shalom, Maya Bash, Yael Cohen Arissohn. Some of them have shared their personal stories and experiences of living under rocket fire and sirens.

Her Excellency Sheikha Al Mayassa Bint Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani, chairperson of Qatar Museums, speaks at the Fashion Trust Arabia Prize Gala in 2021. (Photo Credit: WWD)

A number of fashion-related events have been canceled or postponed throughout the Middle East. Vogue Arabia, Chopard, and Italian jeweler Pomellato have canceled upcoming events in the Middle East. We Design Beirut, a four-day design festival scheduled for late October in Lebanon, has been postponed for the safety of all participants.

The Fashion Trust of Arabia Awards 2023, which was originally planned for October 25 in Dubai, has also been postponed. “At FTA, our goal has always been to support the talents of designers in the MENA region,” the organization stated in a release. “However, given the current situation in the region, it would be ill-considered to continue with our event.”

designer Nirmeen Hourani

Nirmeen Hourani – the first female owner of a fashion house in Gaza (Photo credit: middleeasteye.com)

Lebanese designers Elie Saab, Tony Ward, Georges Hobeika, Zuhair Murad, Emirati-Palestinian designer Reema Al Banna, as well as Syrian couturier Rami Al Ali and French-Moroccan designer Charaf Tajer, all Arab designers who show their collections during Paris Fashion Week, are all highly regarded on the world stage. Instagram has been the vehicle for designers to show their support, solidarity or opposition to the Israel/Hamas conflict. Sadly, with the exception of @Reema Al Banna, none of these designers have taken a stand publicly against the atrocities of this war.

For Gazan designers, it has been much harder to make it onto the global fashion stage due to geo-political circumstances that began in 2006 with the terrorist group Hamas winning the parliamentary election and then the subsequent blockade of the Gaza Strip in 2007.

Nirmeen Hourani, the first female owner of a fashion house in Gaza, has had to overcome many challenges to make her dreams come true. According to MiddleEastEye.com, “her journey in fashion has not always been straightforward, mainly due to the 15-year-old Israeli blockade on Gaza and the fact that there are no fashion schools to attend.” 

 

This shirt / jacket / dress plays on the dishdasheh silhouette worn traditionally by men in the Middle East.

A shirt by Taita Leila based on the dishdasheh silhouette worn traditionally by men in the Middle East. (Photo credit: Taita Leila)

Taita Leila, a Palestinian brand inspired by the tradition of Palestinian embroidery, or tatreez, reinterprets the techniques “in a way that would make your grandmother proud”. According to their website: “Since last year’s uprising [2022], we have been having difficulty in reaching our audience via social media, and especially Instagram. We are tired of being shadowbanned simply because we’re Palestinian. What’s it like being shadowbanned?  Your exposure on a given social media platform is restricted and your direct followers infrequently see your posts. Even supermodel Bella Hadid has called out the platform for silencing her whenever she posts anything about Palestine, her stories drop by over 1 MILLION views! ”  Recently however, in response to the Israel/Hamas War, Taita Leila has raised over $1.8 million on Instagram to help ensure that hospitals and emergency responders have the supplies they need in Gaza.

Nol Collective works with family owned businesses, artisan workshops, and women’s cooperatives from villages in the hills of Jerusalam to Gaza, Ramallah, and Bethlehem, producing traditional Palestinian crafts such as tatreez (hand embroidery) and weaving touched by a history of political struggle and resistance. They too have been raising funds on their Instagram channel to help the innocent victims of the war.

Nol Collective (Photo credit: NolCollective.com)

Other Palestinian brands and determined to keep fashion alive as a form of cultural pride, self expression and resistance to oppression. Neel (which means generation in Arabic), is another multidisciplinary design house that specializes in old Palestinian embroidery with a 1970s aesthetic. “We preserve and repurpose so Palestine is never forgotten and passed on to generations that follow,” reads its bio on Instagram.

The website American Muslin Women is comprised of 24 Palestinian-owned brands that support the Palestinian community and their quest for peace.

WISHING FOR PEACE

John Lennon's Give Peace a Chance poster

John Lennon’s Give Peace a Chance

The fashion industry must continue to do its part to help the victims of this war. Whether it is by closing stores for safety, speaking out for peace, taking the time to understand the complexities of this conflict or by donating to charities, we must all work toward seeking a just and lasting agreement between Israelis and Palestinians. John Lennon said it best in 1969, “Give Peace a Chance”.