Drafting a Portrait Collar Jacket
In this lesson, you will learn how to draft a double-breasted portrait collar jacket. This type of jacket sits away from the neckline and is considered a very sophisticated silhouette. It is often used in cocktail dresses and for eveningwear jackets and vests.
The slopers needed for this lesson can be found and drafted in our Pattern making lesson: Convert Bodice Sloper to Fitted Torso Sloper and then pivot the shoulder dart to a side seam dart in our lesson: Pivoting a Torso Shoulder Dart to the Side Seam.
For additional jacket lessons view: Drafting A Women’s Jacket, Convert Fitted Sleeve To Suit Sleeve, Suit Sleeve From Measurements, Convert Suit Sleeve To Two-Piece Sleeve, Mounting & Fitting A Suit Jacket Sleeve, Drafting A Kimono Bodice With Gusset and Drafting A Shawl Collar & Variations.
| Module | Description | Step |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Lesson Prep | 1-7 |
| 2 | Planning for Double-Breasted, the Breakpoint, Buttons & Buttonholes | 1-8 |
| 3 | Planning the Jacket Roll Line & Lapel | 1-9 |
| 4 | Planning the Collar | 1-6 |
| 5 | Jacket Facing | 1-3 |
| 6 | Final Steps | 1-7 |
MODULE 1 • Lesson Prep
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| 1 | To begin this lesson, trace your front jacket torso sloper onto a piece of pattern paper twice the width and 10” (25.4cm) longer than your sloper. Position the front sloper on the paper, as demonstrated. |
| 2 | Draw a line extending from the bust level onto the blank area of the paper. We will be transferring the bust dart a little bit to the center front, since we will be drafting a double-breasted garment and additional ease is required on the front. |
| 3 | Cut into the extended bustline to within 1/16” (2mm) of the vanishing point of the side bust dart. |
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