Drafting a Portrait Collar Jacket

In this lesson, you will learn how to draft a double-breasted portrait collar jacket. This type of jacket sits away from the neckline and is considered a very sophisticated silhouette. It is often used in cocktail dresses and for eveningwear jackets and vests.

The slopers needed for this lesson can be found and drafted in our Pattern making lesson: Drafting a Shoulder Dart Bodice Sloper from Measurements, or you can download and print our free Women’s Bodice Slopers included in our lesson: Pivoting a Bodice Shoulder Dart to a Side Bust Dart. You will use this bodice sloper to draft a torso sloper in our Pattern making lesson: Convert Bodice Sloper to Fitted Torso Sloper and then pivot the shoulder dart to a side seam dart in our lesson: Pivoting a Torso Shoulder Dart to the Side Seam.

Table of Contents
Transcript

Module	Description	Step
1	Lesson Prep	1-7
2	Planning for Double-Breasted, the Breakpoint, Buttons & Buttonholes	1-8
3	Planning the Jacket Roll Line & Lapel	1-9
4	Planning the Collar	1-6
5	Jacket Facing	1-3
6	Final Steps	1-7

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MODULE 1 • Lesson Prep

Step	Description
1	To begin this lesson, trace your front jacket torso sloper onto a piece of pattern paper twice the width and 10” (25.4cm) longer than your sloper. Position the front sloper on the paper, as demonstrated.
2	Draw a line extending from the bust level onto the blank area of the paper. We will be transferring the bust dart a little bit to the center front, since we will be drafting a double-breasted garment and additional ease is required on the front.
3	Cut into the extended bustline to within 1/16” (2mm) of the vanishing point of the side bust dart.

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