Drafting a Portrait Collar Jacket
In this lesson, you will learn how to draft a double-breasted portrait collar jacket. This type of jacket sits away from the neckline and is considered a very sophisticated silhouette. It is often used in cocktail dresses and for eveningwear jackets and vests.
| Module | Description | Step |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Lesson Prep | 1-7 |
| 2 | Planning for Double-Breasted, the Breakpoint, Buttons & Buttonholes | 1-8 |
| 3 | Planning the Jacket Roll Line & Lapel | 1-9 |
| 4 | Planning the Collar | 1-6 |
| 5 | Jacket Facing | 1-3 |
| 6 | Final Steps | 1-7 |
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MODULE 1 • Lesson Prep
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| 1 | To begin this lesson, trace your front jacket torso sloper onto a piece of pattern paper twice the width and 10” (25.4cm) longer than your sloper. Position the front sloper on the paper, as demonstrated. |
| 2 | Draw a line extending from the bust level onto the blank area of the paper. We will be transferring the bust dart a little bit to the center front, since we will be drafting a double-breasted garment and additional ease is required on the front. |
| 3 | Cut into the extended bustline to within 1/16” (2mm) of the vanishing point of the side bust dart. |
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