Let us teach you how to draft a sailor collar, a sporty collar often used in childrenswear. We will teach you how to draft the collar and the under collar and then how to transfer your draft to a pattern. Once you’ve learned how to draft this collar try our other collar lessons, the Peter Pan, the Convertible and the Mandarin collar.
The bodice sloper needed for this lesson can be found and drafted in our Patttern making lesson: Drafting a Side Bust Dart Bodice Sloper from Measurements and then transferred into oaktag in our lesson: Transfer Side Bust Bodice Drape to Paper-Oaktag. Or you can use the draped bodice from our lesson: Side Bust Dart with Back Neck Dart and then pivot the back neck dart to a shoulder dart in our Pattern making lesson: Pivoting a Back-Shoulder Dart to a Back-Neckline Dart.
|Sailor Collar Draft
|Sailor Collar Pattern
|Sailor Under Collar Pattern
MODULE 1 • Sailor Collar Draft
|For this lesson, you will prepare 3 pieces of white unlined pattern measuring 20” (50.8cm) square.
|We will begin by using our front and back fitted torso slopers, however you could also use your bodice sloper. Make sure that you use only a front sloper that has a side seam dart and not one with a shoulder dart. And for the back use only a sloper with a shoulder dart.
|Place your back sloper parallel to the left-side of the pattern paper, 1” (2.54cm) away from the edge, with the armhole touching the bottom edge of the paper. Trace the back sloper onto the pattern paper starting from the bottom edge of the paper at center back, all around the neckline, the shoulder and to the armhole. Be sure to trace the notches as you go. Then remove the sloper from the draft.
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