Pattern Making for a Full Bust Adjustment

Pattern Making for a Full Bust Adjustment

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Pattern Making for a Full Bust Adjustment

In this lesson, you will learn how to alter a torso sloper for a bust cup larger than a B, also known as a full bust adjustment. You will learn how to alter the pattern based on your measurements. Easy to follow downloadable, charts and forms, will help simplify the process. The resulting custom-fitting torso sloper may be used to design a number of great styles.

The slopers you will need for this lesson can be found and drafted in our Pattern making lesson: Drafting a Shoulder Dart Bodice Sloper from Measurements or in our Draping Lesson: Bodice Sloper. or you can download and print our free Women’s Bodice Slopers included in our lesson: Pivoting a Bodice Shoulder Dart to a Side Bust Dart. You will need to convert the bodice sloper to a fitted torso sloper in our lesson: Convert Bodice Sloper to Fitted Torso Sloper and then pivot the front shoulder dart to the side seam in our lesson: Pivoting a Torso Shoulder Dart to the Side Seam.

Module Description Step
1 Fitting a B Cup Garment Fitter on a Dress Form 1-6
2 How to Measure the Body for a Bust Cup Adjustment 1-2
3 Preparing the Oaktag Torso Sloper for Making Bust Cup Adjustments & Calculating a Bust Cup Adjustment 1-4
4 Testing & Calculating a B Cup Oaktag Torso Sloper 1-3
5 Padding a B Cup Dress Form to a C Cup & Checking the Fit 1-5
6 Calculating a B Cup to a C Cup Bust Adjustment 1-5
7 Pattern Adjustments: B cup to C Cup 1-16
8 Fitting & Testing a C Cup Garment Fitter 1-2
9 Padding a C Cup to a Larger Cup & Checking the Fit 1-5
10 Calculating a B Cup to a Larger than C Bust Cup Adjustment 1-3
11 Pattern Adjustments: B cup to F/DDD Cup 1-24
12 Fitting & Testing a F/DDD Cup Garment Fitter 1-3
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MODULE 1 • Fitting a B Cup Garment Fitter on a Dress Form

Step Description
1 For this lesson, you will need your front and back torso sloper with a front side bust dart and a back-In shoulder dart.
2 Most pattern drafting systems and commercial pattern companies draft a B cup for missy sizing. In this video we will demonstrate and explain a method to adjust the pattern for larger cup sizes.
3 To evaluate cup size measurements, a chart called Cup Size Range, extrapolated from the ASTM Standard D8555-11 Body Measurements for an Adult Missy Figure Sizes- Size 00-20, provides guidelines for this video

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