Pattern Making for a Full Bust Adjustment
In this lesson, you will learn how to alter a torso sloper for a bust cup larger than a B, also known as a full bust adjustment. You will learn how to alter the pattern based on your measurements. Easy to follow downloadable, charts and forms, will help simplify the process. The resulting custom-fitting torso sloper may be used to design a number of great styles.
The slopers you will need for this lesson can be found and drafted in our Pattern making Convert Bodice Sloper to Fitted Torso Sloper and then pivot the front shoulder dart to the side seam in our lesson: Pivoting a Torso Shoulder Dart to the Side Seam.
| Module | Description | Step |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Fitting a B Cup Garment Fitter on a Dress Form | 1-6 |
| 2 | How to Measure the Body for a Bust Cup Adjustment | 1-2 |
| 3 | Preparing the Oaktag Torso Sloper for Making Bust Cup Adjustments & Calculating a Bust Cup Adjustment | 1-4 |
| 4 | Testing & Calculating a B Cup Oaktag Torso Sloper | 1-3 |
| 5 | Padding a B Cup Dress Form to a C Cup & Checking the Fit | 1-5 |
| 6 | Calculating a B Cup to a C Cup Bust Adjustment | 1-5 |
| 7 | Pattern Adjustments: B cup to C Cup | 1-16 |
| 8 | Fitting & Testing a C Cup Garment Fitter | 1-2 |
| 9 | Padding a C Cup to a Larger Cup & Checking the Fit | 1-5 |
| 10 | Calculating a B Cup to a Larger than C Bust Cup Adjustment | 1-3 |
| 11 | Pattern Adjustments: B cup to F/DDD Cup | 1-24 |
| 12 | Fitting & Testing a F/DDD Cup Garment Fitter | 1-3 |
MODULE 1 • Fitting a B Cup Garment Fitter on a Dress Form
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| 1 | For this lesson, you will need your front and back torso sloper with a front side bust dart and a back-In shoulder dart. |
| 2 | Most pattern drafting systems and commercial pattern companies draft a B cup for missy sizing. In this video we will demonstrate and explain a method to adjust the pattern for larger cup sizes. |
| 3 | To evaluate cup size measurements, a chart called Cup Size Range, extrapolated from the ASTM Standard D8555-11 Body Measurements for an Adult Missy Figure Sizes- Size 00-20, provides guidelines for this video |
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