Jacket Draft & Drape
This lesson will teach you how you can convert your suit sloper into a softly tailored jacket pattern. By using the suit sloper, that you created in our how to convert your torso sloper to a suit sloper lesson, we will demonstrate how to transfer this sloper to tailoring canvas. From there, you will add your style lines and then learn how to drape the collar and the lapel of your choice. In addition, you will learn about button closures and how to plan a jacket pocket. Our method is creative, fast and easy.
Once you mastered this lesson, move on to our lesson on to draft your jacket interfacing and lining patterns.
|The sloper needed for the jacket body for this lesson can be found and draped in our Draping lesson: Bodice Sloper or drafted in our Pattern making lesson: Drafting a Shoulder Dart Bodice Sloper from Measurements.
You will then convert the bodice sloper to a fitted torso sloper and that lesson can be found and drafted in our Pattern making lesson: Convert Bodice Sloper to Fitted Torso Sloper. Once you have converted the bodice sloper to a fitted torso sloper you will convert your fitted sloper to a suit sloper and that can be found and drafted in our Pattern making lesson; Convert Fitted Torso Sloper to a Suit Sloper.
In preparation for drafting a two-piece suit sleeve, start by drafting a straight sleeve sloper found in our Pattern making lesson: Straight Sleeve Sloper. You will need to convert the straight sleeve to a fitted sleeve found and drafted in our Pattern making lesson: Fitted Sleeve from Straight Sleeve Sloper. You will then need to transfer the fitted sleeve draft to oaktag found and drafted in our Pattern making lesson: Transfer Fitted Sleeve to Oaktag. The next step is to convert the oaktag fitted sleeve to a suit sleeve found and drafted in our Pattern making lesson: Convert Fitted Sleeve to Suit Sleeve. And finally, you will convert the suit sleeve to a two-piece suit sleeve in our pattern making lesson: Convert Suit Sleeve to Two-Piece Sleeve.
|2||Tracing Front & Back Suit Sloper||1-13|
|3||Trueing Front & Back Suit Sloper||1-5|
|4||Drafting the Jacket Side Panel||1-6|
|5||Tracing & Trueing Side Panel||1-9|
|6||Jacket Front Muslin Layout & Tracing||1-13|
|7||Jacket Back Muslin Layout & Tracing||1-11|
|8||Adding Seam Allowances||1-6|
|10||Two-Piece Sleeve Adjustment||1-3|
|12||Padding the Dress Form||1-12|
|13||Draping the Jacket Body||1-15|
|14||Trueing the Jacket Body||1-9|
|15||Collar, Button Extension & Lapel||1-11|
|17||Pocket Placement & Button Extension||1-5|
|18||Trueing Lapel & Collar||1-8|
|19||Jacket Facing & Under Collar||1-7|
MODULE 1 • LESSON PREP
|1||For this lesson, you will need your Suit Sloper. The Suit Sloper was developed from our Fitted Torso Sloper lesson and originally draped in our Fitted Torso Drape lesson.|
|2||Prepare a 27” (68.6cm) square of white unlined pattern paper. Draw a line 2” (5.1cm) away from the edge on three sides of the paper.|
|3||Cut a piece of white unlined pattern paper 8” (20.3cm) wide x 24” (61.0cm) long.|
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