Introduction to Pattern Grading

This lesson is your introduction to pattern grading. We will teach you what grading is and the grading rules that apply to the women’s size range. We will demonstrate various grading methods and how they are used when grading a bodice, a skirt, a sleeve and a pant. To help with the grading process, we have provided several downloadable charts, diagrams and illustrations to make the process go smoothly.

By the way, people want to know how to get the Sunny grader mentioned in the lesson. Unfortunately, it’s no longer available. But, check out the Dario Grad-O-Meter at http://southstarsupply.com/product/pattern-grading-machine.

The front bodice sloper needed for this lesson can be found and drafted in our Pattern making lesson: Drafting a Side Bust Dart Bodice Sloper from Measurements or draped in our Draping lesson: Side Bust Dart Bodice. The back bodice sloper that you will need for this lesson can be found and drafted in our Pattern making lesson: Drafting a Shoulder Dart Bodice Sloper from Measurements. Both front and back bodice slopers are then transferred to oaktag in our lesson: Transfer Side Bust Bodice Drape to Paper-Oaktag.

The skirt sloper needed for this lesson can be found and drafted in our Pattern making lesson: Draft Straight Skirt Sloper or draped in our Draping lesson: Straight Skirt Sloper.

The straight sleeve needed for this lesson can be found and drafted in our Patttern making lesson: Straight Sleeve Sloper, then converted to a fitted sleeve in our Pattern making lesson: Fitted Sleeve from Straight Sleeve Sloper. And then transferred to oaktag in our lesson: Transfer Fitted Sleeve to Oaktag.

The basic pant sloper needed for this lesson can be found and drafted in our Pattern making lesson: Basic Pant Sloper.

Table of Contents
Transcript

Module	Description	Step
1	What is Pattern Grading?	1-8
2	How & When is Grading Done?	1-6
3	How are Grade Rules Determined?	1-7
4	Special Notes for Grading	1-12
5	How to Grade a Skirt using Cut/Spread/Overlap Method-Base Size 8 UP to Size 10	1-15
6	How to Grade a Skirt using Cut/Spread/Overlap Method BASE SIZE 8 DOWN to SIZE 6	1-6
7	Prepare Front Bodice Pattern & Paper for Grading	1-7
8	How to Hand Grade the Front Bodice using the Shift Method	1-17
9	Grading with the Grading Machine	1-12
10	How to Grade a Sleeve using the Cut & Spread Method	1-4
11	Grading the Pant using Cut & Spread Method	1-3

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MODULE 1 • What is Pattern Grading?

Step	Description
1	Pattern Grading is the systematic method of proportionally increasing and decreasing the size of a garment pattern, while maintaining the designer’s style and fit.
2	The American Society of Testing and Materials defines Grading as a method of creating multiple sizes from a base or sample size, using a grade rule.
3	When shopping for clothes, we have all experienced the concept of pattern grading. In search of the perfect fit, you may try on several sizes of the same garment. If the first were too big or too small, then you would try a size smaller or larger, in hopes of finding a good fit. In this lesson, we will grade a basic bodice, sleeve, skirt and pant pattern.

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