Drafting a Surplice Under Bust Knit Top

This lesson will teach you how to draft surplice under bust knit top. You will learn how to interpret the sketch to determine key measurements, such as the front neck drop, the neck opening, the wrap point, and the position and ratio for the shirring. You will also learn how to stabilize the neckline when sewing.

The sleeveless knit T-shirt sloper needed for this lesson can be found and drafted in our lesson, Drafting a Women’s Fitted Stable Knit T-shirt Sloper from Measurements. And the fabric planned for this draft is a cotton/Lycra single knit jersey.

For more lessons on working with cut & sew knits visit our Knit Discipline landing page.

Table of Contents
Transcript

Module	Description	Step
1	Surplice Under Bust	1-2
2	Planning & Drafting the Under Bust Shirring	1-7
3	More About Knits	1-2

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MODULE 1 • Surplice Under Bust

Step	Description
1	We begin the draft of the surplice knit top by referring to the sketch to determine the following measurements: the front neck drop, the distance from the neck, the wrap point where the shirring starts from the underarm, the shirring width and the center back neck drop. Our measurements for a size 6 are: Front neck drop – 6” (15.2cm) Distance from neck (front & back) – ¾” (2cm) Wrap point where the shirring starts from underarm – 8” (20.3cm) Shirring width – 4 ½” (11.4cm) Center back neck drop – ½” (1.3cm)

Step

Description

We begin the draft of the surplice knit top by referring to the sketch to determine the following measurements: the front neck drop, the distance from the neck, the wrap point where the shirring starts from the underarm, the shirring width and the center back neck drop.
Our measurements for a size 6 are:

Front neck drop – 6” (15.2cm)
Distance from neck (front & back) – ¾” (2cm)
Wrap point where the shirring starts from underarm – 8” (20.3cm)
Shirring width – 4 ½” (11.4cm)
Center back neck drop – ½” (1.3cm)

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