University of Fashion Blog

Posts Tagged: "Spring 2022"

JE NE SAIS QUOI – PARIS FASHION WEEK 2022 TRENDS

- - Fashion Shows

Models strut the runway at Saint Laurent’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

Masks may be an au courant trend (not without controversy), but thanks to masks, social distancing and vax cards Paris Fashion Week roared back to life. The festivities that began on Monday, September 27th wind down on Tuesday, October 5th with major fashion houses opting for live shows such as Dior, Chanel, Hermes, and Vuitton.

Looks from Dior’s Spring 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Reuters)

“We are overjoyed at their return and the presence of the other big brands,” Pascal Morand, head of France’s Federation for Haute Couture and Fashion, told AFP, a news network in France. “We feel this appetite for the physical, for the show,” he added.

But we cannot forget that COVID-19 is not yet over and so just like in New York, London, and Milan, face coverings were compulsory at all the shows this week in the City of Lights.

Of the 97 fashion brands showing at PFW, about two-thirds are continuing with online presentations.

A look from Kenneth Ize’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

Nigerian designer, Kenneth Ize, a favorite of supermodel Naomi Campbell, kicked off Paris Fashion Week with a show at the Palais de Tokyo.

Then on Sunday evening, Givenchy held its first IRL catwalk presentation by its new American artistic director Matthew Williams, who brought an element of street style to the historic French brand.

Saint Laurent was also back with a live show on Tuesday evening, despite being the first major house to quit the Paris Fashion official calendar when the deadly pandemic hit in 2020. Today it’s obvious that the brand and it’s creative director, Anthony Vaccarello, made the right choice. The historic French house has been protesting the chaotic pace of the fashion calendar, which has led several major brands to rethink their strategies even before the pandemic.

A video of Saint Laurent’s spring 2022 show. (Video courtesy of Saint Laurent on YouTube)

Kim Kardashian’s Met Gala Balanciaga Look rewrote the Red Carpet’s Rules. (Photo Credit: Elle)

On Saturday night the much-anticipated Balenciaga show took place. All eyes were on the brand’s creative director Demna Gvasalia, especially after making waves at the Met Gala when he dressed Kim Kardashian in a controversial all-black, head-to-toe covering (talk about the ultimate Covid mask!).

Balenciaga, which is under the umbrella of the French global luxury group Kering (Saint Laurent, Gucci, and Bottega Veneta to name a few) proved that they are totally committed to the future of fashion. Prior to Paris Fashion Week they announced at their brands would be going entirely fur-free. Balenciaga announced that they had teamed up with the hit cartoon comedy show The Simpsons, and they announced a partnership with Unreal Engine’s popular computer game Fortnite. Keep your eyes on this space and watch for our upcoming blog topic on how the fashion industry is entering the gaming space.

Video about Kering going fur-free. (Video Courtesy of France24 on YouTube)

Although there was plenty of excitement and so many live shows to attend, there were still a few who have opted out of showing during the Paris Fashion Week calendar. Most noteworthy absent brands were Celine, whose artistic director Hedi Slimane has argued that the traditional calendar was “obsolete” in the age of social media. Off-White, the brand of the popular streetwear designer Virgil Abloh, has not appeared for several seasons now, as well as Stella McCartney, although she has not given a reason for skipping out of the fashion calendar.

PFW will end with an homage to Israeli-American designer Alber Elbaz, who died from Covid-related complications in April 2020. The late Elbaz’s company, AZ Factory, planned a tribute show with 44 of the world’s most talented designers, each of whom have created a piece in Elber’s honor. Among the designers participating: Rei Kawakubo, Alessandro Michele, Donatella Versace, and Nicolas Ghesquière, and from the U.S., Ralph Lauren, Virgil Abloh and Daniel Roseberry of Schiaparelli.  The company is calling the event, which will be live streamed on October 5 at 8 pm CET, “Love Brings Love.” I am sure the event will bring many to tears as Alber Elbaz was one of the most beloved and charismatic designers of our time.

While the final stretch of the Spring 2022 shows is still going strong, here are some key trends coming out of Paris so far:

POSH SPLICE

This season, designers in Paris played mix masters with a mélange of luxe and alluring combinations.

A look from Marine Serre’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Sarawong’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Thebe Magugu’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Lutz Huelle’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Isabel Marant’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

TWISTER

Twisted halter tops take center stage this season as the sexy neckline can be found on everything from body-con dresses and jumpsuits to barely there tops.

A look from Courrèges’ Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Issey Miyake’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Balmain’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Saint Laurent’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

JUMP STARTS

No longer the sole domain for dancers and gymnasts, the jumpsuit takes on a racy twist in skintight versions that are oh-so-sexy.

A look from Balenciaga’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Saint Laurent’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Marine Serre’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Acne Studios’ Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Balmain’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

SPORTS CENTER

Getting in shape never looked better. Designers are inspired by the sporty life with chic riffs on everything from cool basketball-style shorts to a full-on boxing looks.

A look from Christian Dior’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Loewe’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Isabel Marant’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Meryll Rogge’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

THE BELT WAY

Cinch it in! Designers are opting for belting looks this season to accentuate the waist.

A look from Dries Van Noten’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Patou’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Andrew Gn’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Christian Dior’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Valentino’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Hermès’ Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

BARING CONDITIONS

The French have a flare for sexiness and this spring designers are adding an extra dose of seduction with strategically placed  cut-outs leaving very little to the imagination.

A look from Rick Owens’ Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Gauchere’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Coperni’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Saint Laurent’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

YOU’RE A GEM

The collections in Paris were filled with brilliant jewel tone colors – rich magentas, emeralds, and blues – enough to make you sparkle like a gem.

A look from Andrew Gn’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Kenneth Ize’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Issey Miyake’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Christian Dior’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Patou’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Dries Van Noten’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

SHINE LANGUAGE

Metallic hues take a playful turn for spring 2022 as designers show an array of shiny looks from a gold fringe dress to a silver futuristic topper, one things for sure, it’s time to shine on.

A look from Valentino’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Balmain’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Courrèges’ Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Lutz Huelle’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Loewe’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Christopher Kane’s Spring 2022 show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Balenciaga’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

Now that we’ve covered each of the major fashion week capitals, which city do you believe has the most creative talent?

 

 

HOTTEST TRENDS: LONDON FASHION WEEK SPRING 2022

- - Fashion Shows

Looks from Vivienne Westwood’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

COVID-19 restrictions and guidelines have affected every type of business across the globe, and the fashion industry was no exception. As the Delta and new variants continue to spread, governments, scientists, and doctors are constantly changing guidelines to help keep us all safe and healthy. New York Fashion Week wrapped with the Met Gala and the VMA Awards and all of these events followed New York City’s strict COVID guidelines. The dress code at these events included a vaccine card!

London Fashion Week is no exception. Those attending LFW, will need to carry the NHS Covid pass to show their vaccination status, proof of full vaccination with a UK-approved vaccine program or a recognized vaccine in the EU or USA. They will also need a proof of a “negative lateral flow test taken within the past 48 hours”, as per an official document by British Fashion Council. The shows began September 16th and will end Sept. 21st. The last two seasons of London Fashion Week (LFW) were almost entirely digital, but this season, there will be a partial return to physical, in-real-life (IRL) shows.

A look from Halpern’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue RunwayS

British designers are well known for pushing the boundaries in fashion and beyond, so it’s no surprise that London Fashion Week has become an entirely gender-neutral season. Looking at the LFW calendar, there will be approximately 130 designers presenting their Spring 2022 collections. Some of the all time favs are Erdem, Margaret Howell, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, Tiger Of Sweden, Saul Nash, Stefan Cooke, Labrum London and Steven Stokey-Daley, who will all host live runway shows, while Molly Goddard, Edward Crutchley, and Vivienne Westwood have opted for digital presentations.

In addition to fashion shows, London Fashion Week will also host a number of parties, so throw on your favorite party look as Matches Fashion, Onitsuka Tiger, Dazed, designer Kaushik Velendra and Richard Quinn will each host festive evening events.

The British Fashion Council (BFC) will also host a fashion celebration in partnership with Clearpay. BFC’s CEO, Caroline Rush, said, “The initiative aims to drive footfall back into the capital while reminding consumers of the vibrancy and excitement of London. With involvement from over 100 brands, stores, hospitality venues, and cultural institutions we are looking forward to seeing the whole city come to life.”

Sadiq Khan, London’s Mayor, reiterated Rush’s statement in saying that LFW would be “vital in helping to drive [London’s] social and economic recovery.” The return of fashion shows and industry events around the world will help provide essential business to a market that has suffered immensely during the ongoing global pandemic. Another initiative that the mayor put forth with the BFC is a City-Wide Celebration program that is working with Limited Edition London to stimulate tourism; this program will run until the end of November.

While England is counting on London Fashion Week to generate money for the city, many fashion insiders are disappointed that some of London’s most prominent names are not on the fashion calendar and will not be staging IRL fashion shows, including Burberry, JW Anderson, Victoria Beckham, Christopher Kane and Mary Katrantzou. One must ask, without these powerhouses, can London Fashion Week still generate buzz like its neighbors in Milan and Paris?

But we shouldn’t count London out so quickly. The city nurtures great young talent and this season, there was plenty. Case in point, Nensi Dojaka, the Albanian-born, London-based talent who made her catwalk debut just weeks after being named winner of the LVMH Prize. Her new collection was unveiled to guests through a TikTok show space. Dojaka, a graduate Central Saint Martins, is known for her body-con mesh designs. Her creations have been worn by a variety of fashion ‘it-girls’, including Bella Hadid, Dua Lipa, and Kaia Gerber.

A look from Nensi Dojaka’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

Other buzz-worthy newcomers included Supriya Lele, Knwls, and Harris Reed (who attended the Met Gala with Iman) and who plans to host his first physical show, off-schedule, at the Serpentine Gallery on September 21st.

(Left) Designer Harris Reed and (Right) Iman Had One Of The Most Memorable Met Gala Moments. (Photo Credit: Grazia)

While London Fashion Week is still going strong, here are some of the emerging trends coming out of LFW so far:

PRETTY IN PINK

Pink ruled the runway, but for spring 2022, the soft shade was anything but sweet. Designers played with the juxtaposition of the child-like hue in sexy, form-fitting silhouettes. Suddenly, pink is not so innocent.

A look from David Koma’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Mark Fast’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Nensi Dojaka’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

TRUE ROMANCE

Channeling the music composed by Richard Rogers with lyrics by Lorenz Hart, Isn’t It Romantic?, romance takes center stage during London Fashion Week as designer’s turn up the frill and thrills. Whether they opt for Victorian charm or feminine flounce, one thing’s for sure, these whimsical looks will brighten up any day.

A look from Yuhan Wang’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Bora Aksu’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Molly Goddard’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Edward-Crutchley’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo credit: Vogue Runway)

PREP SCHOOL

It’s time to break out the “Preppy Handbook” as designers reinterpret the preppy look for spring with cool varsity sweaters, playful gingham suits, color-block trench coats, and oh-so-sweet pastel tweeds.

Looks from Bora Aksu’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Margaret Howell’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Temperley London’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Tiger of Sweden’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Palmer Harding’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo credit: Vogue Runway)

LITTLE BLACK DRESS

Thanks to Audrey Hepburn, the LBD has become a fashion staple in every women’s wardrobe. But for Spring 2022, designers are reinterpreting the iconic dress into sexy body con numbers that every PYT (pretty young thing) will want to wear when hitting the dance floor.

A look from Mark Fast’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from David Koma’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Nensi Dojaka’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Knwls’ Spring 2022 collection. (Photo credit: Vogue Runway)

MIX MASTERS

As we’ve all known for ages, the Brits love to have fun with fashion. For Spring 2022, designers are mixing prints in the most delightfully charming way.

A look from Matty Bovan’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Preen by Thornton Bregazzi’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Edward Crutchley’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Knwls’ Spring 2022 collection. (Photo credit: Vogue Runway)

FEELING TANGY

Lime-green, bold tangerine, and lemon-yellow are some of the bold colors that came to life this season as designers opted for citrus hues that were mouthwateringly delightful.

A look from Bora Aksu’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Kiko Kostadinov’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Molly Goddard’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Eudon Choi’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Halpern’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

What looks have inspired you?