University of Fashion Blog

Posts Tagged: "Sies Marjan"

Props to Bergdorf

Emerging Designer Showcase Event

No one appreciates, more than I, what it means when a major department store decides to showcase your work, because once upon a time, that designer was me. During the 1980s, I was fortunate enough to have my own business, Francesca Sterlacci Ltd., built on a shoestring. I’m proud to say that for 10 years I had the support of many great stores and was fortunate to have my clothes featured in store windows, at  perrsonal appearances and sold in prestigious NY stores including Saks, Bloomingdales, Barney’s, Bendels, Bergdorf’s and Bonwit’s (known in the day as the 5 ‘Bs’). So you can imagine how special it was for me on Saturday September 8, when I took time out to meet a few emerging designers on Bergdorf’s 6th floor Modernist shop. One of the big questions our University of Fashion subscribers ask us is, “will I be able to market and sell my designs to stores?” Well, after seeing and meeting the designers that you are about to read about, and by talking with Madison Nagy, Assitant Buyer for BG’s Advanced Designer department, the answer is yes, but “You have got to be different.”

Let’s take a look at what that means.

 

BODE

 

Bode luxury unisex brand: Designer Emily Adams Bode

Bode (pronounced Bow-Dee) is a luxury unisex RTW brand created by Atlanta-born designer and Parsons grad, Emily Adams Bode. The brand launched in 2016 and Bode took off! The brand began with one-of-a-kind garments composed entirely of antiques textiles and continues to envigorate American menswear through the art of storytelling. Each piece tells a story and is tailor-made in New York. Her work expresses a sentimentality for the past through the study of personal narratives and historical techniques. Modern workwear silhouettes united with female-centric traditions of quilting, mending, and applique shape the collection. The collection is organized around that single simple rule: slow fashion is better.

Bode was the first female designer to show at NYFW: Men’s and had her first runway show in Paris in June 2019. She was named as a finalist in the LVMH Prize for young fashion designers, was recently the winner of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and Emily Bode was even included in Forbes’ 30 under 30 list. Click on the link to see one of Bode’s fashion presentations: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmZk8R7zGn0

BERNADETTE

Bernadette luxury RTW brand: Mother & daughter Bernadette & Charlotte De Geyter

Bernadette is luxury ready-to-wear label based in Antwerp by mother and daughter Bernadette and Charlotte De Geyter. Their collections are defined by easy-to-wear silk dresses and refreshing prints, designed exclusively in-house by Charlotte who graduated with a master’s degree from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts. A love of nature and the arts are leitmotifs that run through Bernadette’s aesthetic. Ultra feminine, metropolitan glamour is juxtaposed with a poetic vision of a life somewhere remote and paradisal. Clean lines add a graceful note to the label’s silhouettes while colorful prints echo a timeless and free-spirited allure. Check out their website at https://www.bernadetteantwerp.com

Deveaux New York

Deveaux New York. Designer: Tommy Ton

Deveaux New York was originally formed as a menswear collection by Matthew Breen and Andrea Tsao. In February 2018, Deveaux launched its womenswear collection and announced the appointment of industry veteran, photographer Tommy Ton as Creative Director. Tommy Ton is a Canadian photographer first known for his fashion blog Jak & Jil and his street style coverage of fashion weeks on Style.com and GQ.com.

With an encyclopedia knowledge of what is being worn in the streets, Tommy Ton brings a keen knowledge of the relationship between the runway and the consumer. Together with Andrea Tsao as Head Designer, as well as Matthew Breen, who heads business development, the team is comprised of a unique set of backgrounds that aspires to re-contextualize classic items in the modern world through fit, fabrication and silhouette. It explores the idea of a ‘uniform’ in an effort to make a truly authentic wardrobe. Bergdorf has the NY exclusive distribution of Deveaux for 3 seasons. Check out Deveaux New York’s website: https://deveauxnewyork.com

LouLou Studio

LouLou Studio: Designer Chloe LouLou De Saison

LouLou Studio is a knitwear brand created by fashion influencer/fashion consultant Chloe LouLou De Saison. Her Instagram is a glimpse into a universe which revolves around her vision of the modern Parisian woman. Chloe says of her brand, “I just wanted what I couldn’t find anywhere else: the perfect basic knit with a twist, but also good quality clothes at affordable prices. Everything revolves around well-being. Our pieces are designed to make life easier for women. Putting on a nice sweater in the morning is comforting and reassuring. We want to arouse this feeling with our knitwear collections.” Bergdorf has the NY exclusive distribution of LouLou for 3 seasons. See more of LouLou Studio at https://louloustudio.fr/en/

Also on BG’s Radar

Although the following designers were not on the selling floor while I was there on Saturday, the following brands were also listed among BG’s emerging designers.

Coperni

Coperni luxury RTW designers: Sébastien Meyer & Arnaud Vaillant (Courtesy Coperni Instagram)

Coperni– a luxury women’s wear collection launched by former Courrèges designers Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant on Instagram this Fall – check out the interactive display to watch the Choose-Your-Own-Adventure inspired video series! Coperni takes its name from Nicolaus Copernicus. “He revolutionized astronomy and we were inspired by that,” says Sébastien, who met co-designer Arnaud when both were students at Mod’ Art International in Paris. Their fledgling label, which won the 2014 ANDAM Award, is at once innovative and timeless. “The most important thing for us is to make clothes that are perfectly cut and draped and that women enjoy wearing,” explains Vaillant. “We want our clients to have an emotional connection to our pieces, a real feeling, and we won’t achieve that by making collections that fall out of fashion after a season.” Coperni is currently exclusive to BG in NY.

KHAITE

KHAITE. Designer: Catherine Holstein

KHAITE (pronounced Kate) is a women’s RTW collection that reimagines classic American sportswear for the 21st century. Designed to be cherished, each piece proposes a fresh balance of opposing elements – past and future, masculine and feminine strength and softness, structure and fluidity – while embodying a signature sensuality and ease.

 

Founded in 2016 by Catherine Holstein, New York-based KHAITE evolves with each new season, building upon a foundation of robust and polished items distinguished by exceptional materials and subtle yet striking details. The collection takes its name from the Greek word (xaitn) meaning “long, flowing hair.”

Sies Marjan

Sies Marjan. Designer Sander Lak

Sies Marjan (pronounced seez mar-john), is a luxury designer label established in 2016 and based in New York City. Designed by Dutch Creative Director Sander Lak, the brand evokes a narrative of color, proportion and subversive fabrication. The name Seis Marjan, signifies the first names of his father Sies, and his mother Marjan. In 3 short years, Sies Marjan has developed a strong multi-category business to include Women’s RTW, Men’s RTW, footwear and handbags soon to come. The brand has 150+ global luxury stockists including Bergdorf Goodman, MatchesFashion, Sssense and Net-a-Porter.

Sander was nominated for the CFDA Swarovski Award for emerging talent in 2017 and won the prize in 2018. He was also a nominee for the CFDA 2019 Womenswear Designer of the Year. Check out his Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/seismarjan/ 

ROTATE by Birger Christensen

ROTATE by Birger Christensen

ROTATE is a Copenhagen-based brand designed by Danish stylists and influencers Jeanette Madsen and Thors Valdimars. Birger Christensen, the parent company, boasts a 150-year-old history, having opened its doors in the heart of Copenhagen in 1869. Finn Birger Christensen, a third-generation furrier, built the company by offering a well-curated collection of luxury names alongside its own brand of fur and accessories. When Denise Christensen joined the family business as chief executive officer in 2017, she initiated a new chapter in the brand’s history by opening Rotate, featuring bold prints and textiles in 80s inspired silhouettes with an emphasis on party dresses.

Check out Rotate at https://rotatebirgerchristensen.com

As NYFW marches on this week, it is nice to see attention being paid to emerging designers. Stay tuned….

Designers: Ones To Watch

Designers: Ones To Watch

Starting your own fashion label has never been easy, but today, thanks to social media platforms such as Instagram, Fashion Blog Sites and The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, getting your name out there has become easier. Here are ten young labels that we should all be watching.

Ruben Toledo Sketch (courtesy of Ruben Toledo)

Ruben Toledo Sketch (courtesy of Ruben Toledo)

 

 

 

Brock Collection

Husband and Wife design team Kristopher Brock and Laura Vassar Brock were the 2017 winners of the CFDA Fashion Fund and have quickly become fashion darlings. The duo met at Parsons School of Design where they both studied fashion. Kristopher Brock trained as a tailor and pattern maker. At 18, he opened a surf and skate shop and was also a production assistant for photo producer Larry McCrudden. Soon after he began to work as a runway show tailor for brands ranging from Calvin Klein to Diane von Furstenberg.  Meanwhile, Laura Vassar Brock began her career training with celebrity stylist Petra Flannery. She followed her design dreams and interned for Olivier Theyskens at Theyskens’ Theory, which quickly turned into a full-time position. She also worked at Moda Operandi as an editorial and collection stylist.  In 2015 the duo launched their label Brock Collection which offers beautifully tailored staples with a couture sensibility. Their craftsmanship is impeccable.  The collection is feminine, sophisticated and oh so chic, but all with a youthful hand.

 

Brock (courtesy of Vogue.com)

Brock Collection (courtesy of Vogue.com)

 

 

Sies Marjan

Sander Lak launched his collection Sies Marjan in Fall 2016 during New York Fashion Week to rave reviews. Lak is the creative director for the label which is taken from his father and mother’s given names.  He was born in Brunei and raised in Holland. In 2008 he graduated from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London with a Master’s degree. Lak has worked in various design houses in New York, Antwerp and Paris. His collection is cool and effortless, think silk cargo pants and dresses over pants in a nineties throwback of the chicest kind. There are some characteristics that reference his former boss, Dries Van Noten, but Lak put his own youthful spin on the runway. These are real clothes that real woman can wear; he’s sure to be a favorite among the Street Style set.

 

Sies Marjan (courtesy of  Vogue.com)

Sies Marjan (courtesy of Vogue.com)

 

Off-White

Virgil Aboh is a true Renaissance man, he is an architect, creative director and designer. He was born in Rockford, Illinois and earned a degree in Civil Engineering from the University of Wisconsin Madison, he also completed a Master´s degree in Architecture at the Illinois Institute of Technology. Soon after graduating, Aboh became the creative director for Kanye West and West´s creative think tank “Donda“. Over the years, he has collaborated with multiple artists such as Nick Knight, Riccardo Tisci, Kim Jones, Takashi Murakami, Olivier Rousteing, Giuseppe Zanotti, and worked with Silvia Venturini at Fendi.  Aboh’s career has been filled with great success and awards, such as a Grammy Award in 2011 for his Album Packaging creative direction with Riccardo Tisci for “Watch The Throne”. In 2015, Off-White was nominated as one of the top eight finalists for the LVMH Prize in Paris. His collection Off-White has exploded for both menswear and womenswear and has been worn by multiple celebrities and street style stars. The cult favorite brand is the perfect hybrid of urban cool and high fashion luxury.

Off-White (courtesy of  Vogue.Com)

Off-White (courtesy of Vogue.Com)

 

 

Ji Oh

Ji Oh may have been born in Korea, but New York is now her home. The internationally traveled designer studied art and design in London’s Central Saint Martins in 2004. Oh was always inspired by architectural construction in her garments and spent plenty of time at the Tate Modern. In 2005, she completed her studies at Parsons School of Design in New York City. Oh launched her namesake label in 2014. Her aesthetic focuses on uncontrived proportions, effortless shapes and rich texture. Oh balances minimalistic tones with a contrast in great detail and design. In 2015 and 2016, Oh was nominated for the FGI Rising Star Awards.

 

Ji Oh (courtesy of Vogue.Com)

Ji Oh (courtesy of Vogue.Com)

 

JN by JN LLOVETT

If you’re looking for a cool novelty jacket, then look no further than JN by JN LLOVET. The label was founded by Jacqueline Llovet Garcia; specializing in leather that is inspired by her world travels, adventure and beauty. Garcia is half German, half Spanish and graduated with a Master’s degree from the renowned fashion college Mod`Art International in Paris. The label came to life after her travels through South America as she created her dream jacket in a leather market in La Paz by a Bolivian tailor. This was the spark that created her label. She creates each unique piece in her studio in Germany and uses only the softest, highest quality Nappa leather.

 

JN by JN LLOVETT (courtesy of JN by JN LLOVETT

JN by JN LLOVETT (courtesy of JN by JN LLOVETT

 

Chloe Gosselin

It’s no surprise that the stunningly beautiful shoe designer Chloe Gosselin was a model for nearly ten years. The beauty is an international “It Girl”.  Chloe Gosselin was born in France; graduated from the La Cambre Fine Arts Program in Belgium in 2007; pursued her passion for shoe design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in NYC and in Ars Sutoria in Milan. In 2014, Gosselin fulfilled her dream and started her own namesake label. She divides her time between New York City and Nevada (she’s linked to celebrity magician David Copperfield). Gosselin’s shoes are timeless with a sexy edge.

 

 

Chloe Gosselin (courtesy of Chloe Gosselin

Chloe Gosselin (courtesy of Chloe Gosselin

 

Morgan Lane

Morgan Curtis, the Native New York designer behind the luxury lingerie, sleepwear and swimwear line Morgan Lane, has fashion in her blood; her mother is non-other than the talented and lovely Jill Stuart. Curtis grew up in the fashion world and has always expressed creativity through paining and illustrations. Curtis graduated from Cornell University and attended Central Saint Martins in London; she quickly began designing for the Jill Stuart brand. She launched Morgan Lane in 2014 during the resort season, after several years, her lingerie line is gaining attention and Curtis was one of the 2017 finalists for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. Curtis’ collection is inspired by one of her illustrations, a doll named Lanie. The collection has a playful yet seductive vibe as Curtis uses modern fabrics and hardware in her unique collection.

Morgan Lane (courtesy of Morgan Lane)

Morgan Lane (courtesy of Morgan Lane)

 

 

Pyer Moss

Never one to shy away from controversy, Kerby Jean-Raymond uses his runway shows to speak his mind on political matters – from the “Black Lives Matter Movement” to “Bernie vs Bernie”.  Jean-Raymond is a young Haitian-American designer from East Flatbush, Brooklyn. He launched his Menswear collection Pyer Moss in 2013, but to show the versatility of his menswear collection, he uses both male and female models; he is planning on launching a woman’s collection shortly. The luxury sportswear label has everything from street inspired tracksuits to oversized suits.

Pyer Moss (courtesy of Vogue.Com)

Pyer Moss (courtesy of Vogue.Com)

 

 

Sabrina Zeng

Sabrina Zeng is a true fashion veteran with 10+ years at Versace, Polo Ralph Lauren, and Natori before launching her own line in 2013. Her contemporary handbags are feminine yet edgy; the made-in-NY label is known for its use of hand-pleating technique, meant to be the perfect fusion of conceptual and wearable art. It all started when Zeng, a free-spirited traveler, found herself in need of a fashionable DSLR camera bag. So she took it upon herself to launch her own line. Each bag is named after a zip code, and carries its own story – her collections are inspired by Zeng’s journeys:  starting with her home in New York, Bali, Tibet and Hawaii to name a few. Zeng brings her travels, spirituality and passion to life in her collection of modern handbags.

Sabrina Zeng (courtesy of Sabrina Zeng)

Sabrina Zeng (courtesy of Sabrina Zeng)

 

Berta Cabestany

 

Wearable couture is how Berta Cabestany describes her namesake label as the emerging designer creates a beautiful and distinctive collection. She is a Spanish designer based in Barcelona. She studied at FDMODA in Barcelona and has taken several courses in Parson’s School of Design in New York and Paris and Central Saint Martins London. In her collection, Cabestany combines traditional techniques with a modern and feminine flare. Playing with intricate embellishments, she perused her passion for embroideries by taking courses at Ecole Lesage in Paris and The London Embroidery School, and now wants to preserve the art of handmade, artisan techniques. Her collection is whimsical yet chic.

Berta Cabestany (courtesy of Berta Cabestany)

Berta Cabestany (courtesy of Berta Cabestany)