University of Fashion Blog

Posts Tagged: "Molly Goddard"

MOTHERHOOD, FASHION, AND SUCCESS: CELEBRATING DESIGNER MOMS

Three generations of designers. Margherita, Angela and Rosita Missoni. (Photo Credit: Martina Giammaria)

To all the Moms out there, we salute you! Whether you’re part of the 9-5 workforce or you’re a CEO homemaker, house manager and caregiver, we’d like to wish you a very Happy Mother’s Day. Fun fact: Did you know that from February to April 2020 among moms with kids under age 18, the mothers’ employment plummeted to nearly 16%, but by 2023 that number grew to 71.7%?  And, 24% of those women worked from home, according to the U.S. Labor Department’s Women’s Bureau. Talk about multi-tasking!

In this week’s blog, we thought we’d take a look at the women in fashion who have managed to balance the demands of raising young children with the fast-paced world of high fashion. Among the many talented designer moms making waves in the industry a few standout, not just for their entrepreneurial prowess, but also for their ability to build and maintain the successful fashion brands they’ve helped create.

CHEMENA KAMALI FOR CHLOÉ

Chemena Kamali on the Chloe runway after her Fall 2024 debut collection as her son runs to her. (Photo Credit: Getty)

Chemena Kamali, the creative director of Chloé, brings a touch of timeless elegance to the brand’s designs. As a mother, Kamali’s creations often reflect a sense of effortless sophistication, perfectly balancing the demands of modern motherhood with her passion for fashion. Her designs are celebrated for their fluidity and femininity, capturing the essence of the Chloé woman who is both strong and delicate. Who can forget her debut show for Chloé’s fall 2024 collection when one of her sons gleefully jumped up from the front row to cheer on his mom as she took her final bow?

MARGHERITA MISSONI

Margherita with her husband and sons in 2016. (Photo Credit: Instagram @mmmargherita)

Margherita Missoni, part of the iconic Missoni family, infuses her designs with the vibrant colors and patterns that have become synonymous with the brand. As a mother of two, Margherita brings a fresh perspective to Missoni, as well as her latest venture Maccapani. The brand combines cutting-edge Italian jersey fabrics with the Missoni scion’s post-streetwear, femicentric philosophy. Blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary flair, Margherita’s creations embody a sense of joy and optimism, reflecting her own experiences as a mother raising a young family.

MOLLY GODDARD

Molly Goddart was creating her collection for Fall 2024 right before giving birth. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

Molly Goddard’s eponymous label has become synonymous with whimsical designs and voluminous silhouettes. As a mother, Goddard brings a unique perspective to her work, redefining femininity with each collection. Her designs celebrate individuality and self-expression, empowering women to embrace their own sense of style while juggling the responsibilities of motherhood. During her fall 2024 show, her 11-week-old daughter made her front row debut sleeping while cradled against her father’s chest.

ALEJANDRA ALONSO ROJAS

Alejandra Alonso Rojas with her son. (Photo Credit: Coveteur)

Alejandra Alonso Rojas is known for her dedication to artisanal craftsmanship and sustainable practices. As a mother, Rojas brings a sense of purpose to her work, creating timeless pieces that are meant to be treasured for years to come. Her designs reflect her commitment to family and tradition, celebrating the beauty of slow fashion in a fast-paced world.

MARINA LARROUDE FOR LARROUDE

Marina Larroude, of Larroude, with her two children. (Photo Credit: Instagram @MarinaLarroude)

Marina Larroude’s eponymous footwear brand offers chic and versatile options for every occasion. As a mother, Larroude knows the importance of comfortable yet stylish shoes, and her designs reflect this ethos. From classic pumps to statement wedges, Larroude’s collections cater to the needs of modern women who refuse to sacrifice style for practicality.

HENRIETTA RIX OF RIXO

Henrietta Rix, co-founder of fashion brand Rixo and mom to a toddler. (Photo Credit: Citizen Femme)

Henrietta Rix’s vintage-inspired designs have captured the hearts of fashionistas around the world. As a mother, Rix brings a sense of nostalgia to her collections, reimagining classic silhouettes for the modern woman. Her bold prints and playful designs exude a sense of glamour and confidence, proving that motherhood is no barrier to success in the fashion world.

A FEW MORE OH SO CHIC DESIGNER MOMS

Felisha Noel and her son. (Photo Credit: Byrdie)

Elena Velez, Michelle Ochs, and Felisha Noel are the creative minds behind some of today’s most exciting new fashion brands. As mothers themselves, they understand the importance of versatility and comfort without compromising on style. Whether it’s Velez’s bold prints, Ochs’ architectural silhouettes, or Noel’s innovative use of textiles, these designers are paving the way for a new generation of fashion-forward moms.

Happy Mom’s Day!

SPRING 2023 SHOWS: LONDON MOURNS THEIR QUEEN BUT THE SHOWS MUST GO ON

- - Fashion Shows, Trends

 

Erdem’s show finale felt like a page being inscribed in the annals of British fashion history. This was a tribute to the Queen. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

London Fashion Week’s Spring 2023 season was like no other. England’s longest reigning monarch passed away on Sept. 8, at Balmoral Castle, plunging the nation into 10 days of official mourning. Queen Elizabeth II was 96 years old when she passed and ruled Britain 70 years. As per the Queen’s wishes, Prince Charles became King Charles III, as he promises to walk in his mother’s footsteps.

The Final Portrait of Queen Elizabeth II. (Photo Credit: Ranald Mackechnie, Courtesy of Buckingham Palace)

Shows were scheduled to begin September 15th and end on September20th, but major brands like Burberry chose to cancel their show altogether, and some wondered if fashion week would — or should — happen at all. But of course, the shows forged on as many designers paid their respects to her Royal Majesty.

On Sunday night, Sept. 18th — the eve of the funeral of Queen Elizabeth II — the line of people waiting to pay their last respects to the late monarch stretched so far through the heart of the British capital that it could be seen from space, according to The New York Times. The following morning, September 19, the queen’s state funeral took place at Westminster Abbey; then a legion of military officers towed her casket through the streets of London in a processional to Windsor Castle. Naturally, it was all very touching — from the little tantrums to the unbelievable crowds to the mournful bongs of Big Ben that backdropped the funeral march. Queen Elizabeth II is now at her final resting place which is marked with a new ledger stone in the King George VI Memorial chapel, Buckingham Palace has said. The stone slab bears the name of the late Queen, her husband Prince Philip, and her parents, with the two generations separated by a metal garter star.

While Britain is also a country with a national identity forged in times of heartache and trouble — of which there recently has been plenty for designers: the continuing fallout from Brexit, the pandemic, and the likelihood of recession. Out of respect for the Queen, all of the parties this season had been canceled, but many young designers rallied for their shows to go on. And thankfully they did, because London Fashion Week always serves up such inspirational fashion moments.

A look from JW Anderson’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Ayesha Kazim for The New York Times)

“It has been a challenging two years,” Harris Reed said in an interview with The New York Times. “Speaking with my fellow young designers, most of whom have put their entire brand budgets into shows to bring in sales and brand awareness, it is so important, now more than ever, to support the small brands in London.”

A look from Harris Reed’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

London has a reputation for embracing and nurturing young fashion talent, and this season there were a number of breakthrough emerging designers, such as Chopova Lowena and Karoline Vitto; but the fashion old guard also reminded us of why the capital’s fashion reputation also rests on the rich depth of its storytelling. And while London Fashion Week was filled with emotion, fashion designers proudly honored their Queen.

Looks from SimoneRocha’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Acielle)

A look from Chopova Lowena’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

Here are a few of the biggest trends that came out of London Fashion Week:

PAYING TRIBUTE TO THE QUEEN (ELIZABETH NOT ALEXANDER)

A number of British designers paid tribute to Queen Elizabeth II in their collections. Case in point, designer JW Anderson, whose finale was a black T-shirt with the words “Her Majesty The Queen 1926-2022 Thank you” on the front.

“It felt important to keep going, because this is a time when London needs to stick together, and right now some of this city’s young designers are at risk of losing their businesses,” JW Anderson said to New York Times reporters backstage, as revelers outside drank the night away. “That is an extremely British attitude.”

Here are a few other designers who honored the Queen this season.

JW Anderson, who fought to keep London Fashion Week alive in the midst of unprecedented “royal mourning,” ended his London Fashion Week show with six lovely words. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

A silent catwalk with the Union Jack wrapped tight around the heart at Dilara Findikoglu’s Spring Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)Traditional lace collars and black netted crowns took the spotlight at Richard Quinn, whose 2018 fashion show was attended by Queen Elizabeth II herself. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

Tiny crochet corgi dolls became a key accessory at RuiRui’s show. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

The speakers went silent at the show for Halpern’s opening look, which paid homage to the 1957 ballgown the Queen wore to greet French president Charles de Gaulle. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

Great Britain, ultra tiny dress. The Union Jack rises at Poster Girl’s Spring Show. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

Bora Aksu’s show opened with a military drum salute before turning into a parade of looks inspired partly by the Queen’s military service in World War II. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

DOT ON

We will all be seeing spots this season as designers offered the playful graphic print on everything from dramatic suits to frothy frocks.

A look from Richard Quinn’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Molly Goddard’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Harris Reed’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Bora Aksu’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Halpern’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

CUT-IT-OUT

The sexy cut-out trend is going strong for spring especially in sultry gowns that will surly get you noticed at your next bash.

A look from Nensi Dojaka’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Halpern’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Christopher Kane’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from JW Anderson’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from David Koma’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A-ROUND-WE-GO

Bubble shapes are all the rage this spring 2023 season. From futuristic spear-shaped hemlines to rounded peplum shapes, these dramatic objects add a playful flare to your wardrobe.

A look from Richard Quinn’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from JW Anderson’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Harris Reed’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Dilara Findikoglu’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Christopher Kane’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

YOUR NOT SO BASIC TEE

Everyone’s favorite basic gets a quirky make-over this spring. And what timing! Just as UoF is about to launch an entire series on drafting cut & sew T-shirts and 4-way stretch knits!

A look from Christopher Kane’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Dilara Findikoglu’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Molly Goddard’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from JW Anderson’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

TRAINING DAY

Add some drama to your next affair with floor-sweeping trains. Whether you opt for the minimal slip dress version or a maximalist feathered skirt, these dramatic hemlines are oh so sexy.

A look from Harris Reed’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Halpern’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Erdem’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Christopher Kane’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from David Koma’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

FEELING FROU

Frothy, romantic ruffles were all over the runways during London Fashion Week.

A look from Molly Goddard’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Halpern’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Erdem’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Bora Aksu’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Simone Rocha’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

So tell us, what is your favorite spring 2023 trend so far?

 

HOTTEST TRENDS: LONDON FASHION WEEK SPRING 2022

- - Fashion Shows

Looks from Vivienne Westwood’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

COVID-19 restrictions and guidelines have affected every type of business across the globe, and the fashion industry was no exception. As the Delta and new variants continue to spread, governments, scientists, and doctors are constantly changing guidelines to help keep us all safe and healthy. New York Fashion Week wrapped with the Met Gala and the VMA Awards and all of these events followed New York City’s strict COVID guidelines. The dress code at these events included a vaccine card!

London Fashion Week is no exception. Those attending LFW, will need to carry the NHS Covid pass to show their vaccination status, proof of full vaccination with a UK-approved vaccine program or a recognized vaccine in the EU or USA. They will also need a proof of a “negative lateral flow test taken within the past 48 hours”, as per an official document by British Fashion Council. The shows began September 16th and will end Sept. 21st. The last two seasons of London Fashion Week (LFW) were almost entirely digital, but this season, there will be a partial return to physical, in-real-life (IRL) shows.

A look from Halpern’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue RunwayS

British designers are well known for pushing the boundaries in fashion and beyond, so it’s no surprise that London Fashion Week has become an entirely gender-neutral season. Looking at the LFW calendar, there will be approximately 130 designers presenting their Spring 2022 collections. Some of the all time favs are Erdem, Margaret Howell, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, Tiger Of Sweden, Saul Nash, Stefan Cooke, Labrum London and Steven Stokey-Daley, who will all host live runway shows, while Molly Goddard, Edward Crutchley, and Vivienne Westwood have opted for digital presentations.

In addition to fashion shows, London Fashion Week will also host a number of parties, so throw on your favorite party look as Matches Fashion, Onitsuka Tiger, Dazed, designer Kaushik Velendra and Richard Quinn will each host festive evening events.

The British Fashion Council (BFC) will also host a fashion celebration in partnership with Clearpay. BFC’s CEO, Caroline Rush, said, “The initiative aims to drive footfall back into the capital while reminding consumers of the vibrancy and excitement of London. With involvement from over 100 brands, stores, hospitality venues, and cultural institutions we are looking forward to seeing the whole city come to life.”

Sadiq Khan, London’s Mayor, reiterated Rush’s statement in saying that LFW would be “vital in helping to drive [London’s] social and economic recovery.” The return of fashion shows and industry events around the world will help provide essential business to a market that has suffered immensely during the ongoing global pandemic. Another initiative that the mayor put forth with the BFC is a City-Wide Celebration program that is working with Limited Edition London to stimulate tourism; this program will run until the end of November.

While England is counting on London Fashion Week to generate money for the city, many fashion insiders are disappointed that some of London’s most prominent names are not on the fashion calendar and will not be staging IRL fashion shows, including Burberry, JW Anderson, Victoria Beckham, Christopher Kane and Mary Katrantzou. One must ask, without these powerhouses, can London Fashion Week still generate buzz like its neighbors in Milan and Paris?

But we shouldn’t count London out so quickly. The city nurtures great young talent and this season, there was plenty. Case in point, Nensi Dojaka, the Albanian-born, London-based talent who made her catwalk debut just weeks after being named winner of the LVMH Prize. Her new collection was unveiled to guests through a TikTok show space. Dojaka, a graduate Central Saint Martins, is known for her body-con mesh designs. Her creations have been worn by a variety of fashion ‘it-girls’, including Bella Hadid, Dua Lipa, and Kaia Gerber.

A look from Nensi Dojaka’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

Other buzz-worthy newcomers included Supriya Lele, Knwls, and Harris Reed (who attended the Met Gala with Iman) and who plans to host his first physical show, off-schedule, at the Serpentine Gallery on September 21st.

(Left) Designer Harris Reed and (Right) Iman Had One Of The Most Memorable Met Gala Moments. (Photo Credit: Grazia)

While London Fashion Week is still going strong, here are some of the emerging trends coming out of LFW so far:

PRETTY IN PINK

Pink ruled the runway, but for spring 2022, the soft shade was anything but sweet. Designers played with the juxtaposition of the child-like hue in sexy, form-fitting silhouettes. Suddenly, pink is not so innocent.

A look from David Koma’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Mark Fast’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Nensi Dojaka’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

TRUE ROMANCE

Channeling the music composed by Richard Rogers with lyrics by Lorenz Hart, Isn’t It Romantic?, romance takes center stage during London Fashion Week as designer’s turn up the frill and thrills. Whether they opt for Victorian charm or feminine flounce, one thing’s for sure, these whimsical looks will brighten up any day.

A look from Yuhan Wang’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Bora Aksu’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Molly Goddard’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Edward-Crutchley’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo credit: Vogue Runway)

PREP SCHOOL

It’s time to break out the “Preppy Handbook” as designers reinterpret the preppy look for spring with cool varsity sweaters, playful gingham suits, color-block trench coats, and oh-so-sweet pastel tweeds.

Looks from Bora Aksu’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Margaret Howell’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Temperley London’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Tiger of Sweden’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Palmer Harding’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo credit: Vogue Runway)

LITTLE BLACK DRESS

Thanks to Audrey Hepburn, the LBD has become a fashion staple in every women’s wardrobe. But for Spring 2022, designers are reinterpreting the iconic dress into sexy body con numbers that every PYT (pretty young thing) will want to wear when hitting the dance floor.

A look from Mark Fast’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from David Koma’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Nensi Dojaka’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Knwls’ Spring 2022 collection. (Photo credit: Vogue Runway)

MIX MASTERS

As we’ve all known for ages, the Brits love to have fun with fashion. For Spring 2022, designers are mixing prints in the most delightfully charming way.

A look from Matty Bovan’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Preen by Thornton Bregazzi’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Edward Crutchley’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Knwls’ Spring 2022 collection. (Photo credit: Vogue Runway)

FEELING TANGY

Lime-green, bold tangerine, and lemon-yellow are some of the bold colors that came to life this season as designers opted for citrus hues that were mouthwateringly delightful.

A look from Bora Aksu’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

A look from Kiko Kostadinov’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Molly Goddard’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Eudon Choi’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

 

A look from Halpern’s Spring 2022 collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)

What looks have inspired you?

 

LONDON AND MILAN SPRING 2021 FASHION SHOWS TAKE THE PLUNGE

- - Fashion Shows

Bora Aksu’s Spring 2021 Presentation. (Photo: Courtesy of Bora Aksu)

ON WITH THE SHOW!

While New York showed only a handful of live shows and presentations due to Covid concerns, at London and Milan fashion week it was almost business as usual. London designers staged over 30 live shows, presentations, fashion events or personal appointments, while Milan blended 28 physical shows with 24 digital ones, making Milan, thus far, the city with the most in real life showings. As American buyers, the  fashion press (and the rest of us) virtually crossed the pond for London and Milan fashion week, we all got to watch some pretty amazing spring 2021 fashion in the privacy of our home, sitting on our pandemic-safe couch. Gotta love technology!

LONDON’S CALLING

A look from Gareth Pugh’s Spring 2021 Collection. (Photo: Courtesy of Gareth Pugh)

Stating that all live events would adhere to social distancing and hygiene g regulations, the British Fashion Council kicked off LFW on September 17th and wrapped up on September 22. Burberry opened the season with a live-streamed outdoor show to rave reviews. Throughout the week 80 designers took part in London Fashion Week – 30 IRL (in real life) and 50 digitally.

The week hosted a mix of womenswear and menswear designers, but what really stood out was that the season will no longer be known as Spring 2021, but rather “London Fashion Week September 2020,” in a move towards a more season-less approach.

Here are the highlights:

BURBERRY

Riccardo Tisci opened London Fashion Week with a bang. The influential designer live-streamed his Burberry show in a hauntingly beautiful forest. His theme: “a love story between a mermaid and a shark.” The dark theme was the perfect parable as to how we’ve all felt the past seven months locked in quarantine and working from home. Tisci’s under-the-sea analogy was anything but kitsch. The collection was rather chic and sophisticated with beautiful shades of blues; “Blue is the new beige,” Tisci teased in an interview with Vogue Runway, name-checking Burberry’s signature color.

Being in quarantine with his 92 year-old mother and relatives in his childhood home near Lake Cuomo was a breath of fresh air for the designer and gave him a new sense of appreciation for life. According to his Vogue interview, the rootsy surroundings of his quarantine made him reconnect with his childhood and the innocent mindset with which he pursued those dreams. “You open the drawer of your past and see how far you’ve gone as a person, how much you’ve done for yourself, and for others. Your dreams have come true,” he reflected.

His collection for Burberry was filled with sea-centric references – from illustrations to embellishments – that were innocent and raw. Tisci’s shark motif has been a signature of the designer from the start of his career. As for his mermaids, Tisci worked with peplum shapes, glistening dresses, and spliced trench coats.

Tisci perfectly infused Burberry’s classic aesthetic with his signature street-style. Sometimes, going back to your roots is what a designer needs to find their footing again, as his mother would say, Bravo Riccardo!

DURO OLOWU

A look from Duro Olowu’s presentation. (Photo Credit: Luis Monteiro for Duro Olowu)

There is no doubt about it, 2020 will forever be known as the year of the sweatsuit. But as  Duro Olowu puts it quite simply in an interview with Vogue Runway, “Ease doesn’t have to mean track pants.”

Olowu presented his collection to a handful of editors and buyers in his London boutique. The joyful collection was filled with bold colors and striking prints that were inspired by Emma Amos, an African American painter who died in May of this year. Olowu infused bold hand-painted striped prints that were chic and sophisticated, case in point, the elongated tunic over wide leg pants, gave off an elegant loungewear vibe.

The designer is also experimenting with new shapes, focusing on sarong-like midi-length silhouettes that feel fresh and new. His line-up was filled with 1950s lean looks that were refined yet youthful. These clothes are a promise to brighter days ahead and they definitely will put a smile on your face.

MOLLY GODDARD

A look from Molly Goddard’s Spring 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Ben Broomfield for Molly Goddard)

Molly Goddard held intimate appointments in her studio as she presented her eclectic spring collection filled with bright, frothy, tulle confections. Mannequins were scattered throughout the space, each wearing one on Goddard’s jubilant looks. The collection was filled with ruffled, voluminous skirts and dresses, all in vibrant colors, as well as checkerboard neon sweaters, an A-line anorak dress and even floral printed denim pants.

Also, for the first time, Goddard decided to offer many of her unique dresses in white, which would make the perfect wedding dress for the cool young bride who wants an anything but traditional dress.

SIMONE ROCHA

A look from Simone Rocha’s spring 2021 collection. (Photo: Courtesy of Simone Rocha)

With all the COVID-19 U.K. regulations set in place, Simone Rocha held an intimate presentation at the Hauser & Wirth gallery. The cavernous white walls were the perfect backdrop for Rocha’s beautifully, intricate looks to come to life. In an interview with Vogue Runway, Rocha stated “I’m not going to lie: I’ll be the first to say I love runway shows, now that the pace of shows has been stripped away, I wanted to find a space to represent that. It’s important to me to find a way to physically share the collection, just for the silhouette, texture, and weight of it. Clothes are made of cloth, and emotions, and they come to life on a body.”

Rocha’s collection was filled with voluminous, rounded shapes in gilded brocades, rich cotton embroideries, delicate pearl embroideries, and intricate scalloped edge cottons. Close up, the layers held little messages: on tulle veiling, patterns of castles; in the broderie anglaise, SR monograms. “Castles in faraway places,” Rocha laughed. “I think that’s the escapism we’re all craving.”

ERDEM

Just like Riccardo Tisci for Burberry, Erdem Moralioglu was inspired by fantasy for his spring 2021 collection and also opted to hold an audience-less runway show in the English forest. Moralioglu spent his quarantine time reading. His collection was inspired by a Susan Sontag novel, The Volcano Lover, Sontag’s portrait of the 18th-century beauty Emma Hamilton who married a volcanologist obsessed with Grecian vases and had a passionate love affair with Lord Nelson.

Moralioglu, like his inspiration, looked to beauty during this fearful time. The designer featured regal 18th century-inspired floral jacquard dresses with puff-sleeves juxtaposed against cozy cardigans, military-inspired outerwear and an embroidered admiral jacket.

In an interview with Vogue Runway, Moralioglu stated, “I get asked the same question: Are women’s tastes and wants changing now, given the situation? On the contrary, we have a customer who’s still buying special pieces. It’s the want for something you can wear in five and 10 years. As I enter my 15th year doing this, the most thrilling thing is seeing someone wearing your work from 10 years ago. I’ve always been obsessed with permanence. When it feels like the end of the world, doesn’t someone need a pink moiré hand-embroidered gown?”

CHRISTOPHER KANE

An abstract painterly look from Christopher Kane. (Photo: Courtesy of Chrisopher Kane)

If this pandemic has taught us anything (other than the importance of wearing a mask, frequent hand-washing and social distancing) it’s a time for reflection, a reminder not to put off things that bring you joy. Christopher Kane did just that in his spring 2021 collection. The designer revisited his love of painting using multicolored glitter that he experimented with as a kid. Kane’s flagship store was turned into an exhibition space for his collection presentation, with easels and canvases featuring his paintings that he’d created during lockdown.

As for the clothes, which were displayed on mannequins, Kane recreated his artwork onto coats, dresses, and tops. Key looks included a brushstroke print long sleeve midi dress, a paint dot splatter shirt, and a brush-stroke striped sweater. With this charming collection one thing is clear, Kane had a lot of fun creating these pieces.

 

 

MILANO MODA

Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring 2021 patchwork show was inspired by Sicily. (Photo Credit: Gorunway.com)

Leave it to the Italians to add a new word to fashion’s lexicon. Milan’s Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana billed the city’s spring 2021 shows as a “phygital fashion week.” Phygital fashion week is a portmanteau, a blend of physical, in person shows, and a digital show, a format that has become essential during COVID.  Milan’s phygital fashion week took place from September 22 – 28th.

Everyone in the fashion community is asking themselves…is this hybrid model of phygital shows and presentations the future of fashion week? Only time will tell.

PRADA

Prada was hands-down the most anticipated show of the season and rightfully so, since this was the debut of the Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons collaboration. The partnership was announced last February, pre-pandemic lockdown, and it was probably the most celebrated fashion news of 2020. The designers staged a digital runway show that was viewed on Prada.com and then opened up to a conversation with Prada and Simons answering questions that were submitted online. It was a genius move, giving Prada consumers the chance to listen to their “backstage-conversation.”

As for the clothes, a new Prada ‘uniform’ was introduced. You may remember that in the ‘90s Prada’s minimalistic uniform looks launched Miuccia Prada into fashion stardom. According to Miuccia and Simmons, the new Prada is all about paring back and the streamlining of excesses to get at what’s essential. The collection’s 40 looks were composed of long, narrow trousers; a sleeveless, tunic-length tee with the famous triangle logo; statement making outerwear with clutched coats; full skirts; holey (not the religious kind) knits; all worn with pointy-toed slingback kitten heels in a contrasting color. “How Miuccia dresses is very often a kind of uniform one way or another, and that was direct inspiration for me for the show,” Simons said in the interview.

The collection was filled with past references that became signatures for both designers. Case in point, Prada’s spring 1996 show of “ugly prints” reemerged on hoodies and matching full skirts, as well words and graphic silk-screened motifs on pastel shift dresses, a representation of Simmons’ personal work.

Miuccia and Simons lived up to the fashion world’s anticipation and thus far was the show of the season.

FENDI

Fendi opened Milan Fashion Week with the first in-person, live, runway show, featuring both their men’s and women’s collections. And the fashion crowd couldn’t be happier. The show opened with photographic prints taken by Silvia Venturini Fendi from her bedroom window during lockdown. These soft graphic prints were found on everything from transparent shirt dresses, to tailored blazers and men’s suits.

As Italy was the first of the European cities to suffer from Covid 19, spending several months in lock-down mode, Fendi believes this will forever change the way we dress, and answered the call with sophisticated alternatives for WFH (work-from-home) looks. The collection had plenty of chic loungewear and pajama fashion, as well as floaty wood-printed caftans. Fendi closed the show with bedding-inspired looks that ranged from cozy satin quilted outerwear to pale lace embroidered linen tops and skirts. “This reminded me of Karl [Lagerfeld],” said Fendi pre-show in an interview with Vogue Runaway: “He had a love for bed linen, he had a big collection.”

This collection marked the final transition of Silvia’s decades long collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld, and her latest collaboration with newly appointed creative director Kim Jones. This announcement will surely make Fendi the most anticipated show for the Fall 2022.

ETRO

Etro’s Spring 2021 Show. (Photo Credit: Gorunway.com)

The COVID-19 pandemic has been a difficult and terrifying time for us all, but if there is any silver lining to this nightmare, it is that the lockdowns have brought many families back together. This is the case for Veronica Etro, as she spent her time during lockdown at home with her mom as they listened to old Neapolitan songs, “we were bewitched by the serenity, the timelessness, and the elegance” Veronica Etro stated during her pre-show press conference. The music made her reminisce about her “2019 trip to Ischia, Capri, Naples, and Positano, and—maybe because we were so patriotic during that period—I thought, okay, let’s make the collection all about Italy.”

Veronica dug deep into her family’s print archives and turned out a youthful and vibrant collection filled with effortless vacation looks that ranged from a sexy scarf print bikini worn under a glamorous open front maxi skirt, to charming marinière knits. There were plenty of effortlessly chic printed dresses; flirty nautical themed bra tops and shorts; as well as youthful paisley shorts worn with menswear inspired shirts.

This charming collection was the perfect beach escape for next summer and beyond.

ALBERTA FERRETTI

A look from Alberta Ferretti’s Spring 2021 Show. (Photo Credit: Corunway.com)

Alberta Ferretti also opted for a live, in-person show this season, as she held her runway extravaganza in the open air in one of the courtyards of Milan’s Castello Sforzesco, as guests enjoyed the sunshine. The perfect backdrop to Ferretti’s signature romantic aesthetic.

The collection was a stark contrast to the state of the world. In a pre-interview with Vogue Runway, Ferretti stated, “In this difficult situation, so harsh and unforgiving in many ways, my gut instinct was to embrace kindness and a certain seductive softness. I believe that it stems from self-confidence and from the acceptance of the natural power of femininity.

Ferretti’s approach to the season was practical, as she offered her women a wardrobe that fits all of their needs. The designer showed a variety of feminine dresses that ranged from ethereal, flowing, maxi dresses to flirty macramé lace mini dresses – all with a bohemian yet sophisticated hand. The collection also featured plenty of every-day pieces, such as pastel denim pants, high-waisted fitted trousers paired with bralettes, embroidered tops and cropped blouses. Overall, Ferretti’s collection was a sophisticated and fresh approach to femininity.

VERSACE

Always with a flair for the dramatic, Donatella Versace literally took her viewers “under the sea” for her spring 2021 collection: the aquatic theme being a reoccurring motif for many designers this season. Versace staged a full on live-streamed show, with no audience, just her team. The runway’s backdrop…the imagined ruins of Atlantis with a water current streaming down its projected walls. The mythical backdrop was the perfect setting for Versace’s provocative ocean-themed collection.

Ever since the Versace label launched in 1978, by her beloved brother Gianni, the brand has always been known for its sex appeal and its loud and vibrant prints and colors. For spring 2021, Donatella embraced the DNA of the house and it was a joyful ode to life, featuring both menswear and womenswear looks. Versace started off with a maritime motif with tailored navy blazers and shorts. Then the collection took on a Malibu Barbie twist, with vibrant prints in pumped-up colors. Starfish print dresses that ranged from sheaths to baby-doll silhouettes; coral reef motif and ocean themes made their way onto everything, from skirts and tops to shorts and swimwear. Versace also showed moments of ingenuity with micro-pleated dresses trimmed with twirly ruffles, which resembled a graceful jellyfish swimming in the ocean.

Versace stated that her archival sea collection was also a metaphor for a new world of wonders, which translated to a diverse runway. The co-ed show was cast with a variety of ethnicities, as well as diversified sizes, embracing her message of body positivity and gender-nonconformity. Brava Donatella for such an inclusive representation of the world.

MOSCHINO

Let’s give it up to Jeremy Scott for producing the most creative show of the season. The digital masterpiece was an elaborate puppet show with marionette replicas of his favorite models walking down a runway and doll replications of his audience. It was a visual delight that eased the stress of a world gone mad. In an interview with Vogue Runway, Scott stated,  “The best thing I could do for everyone who’s stressed about the election, the pandemic, social unrest, and the future was to give the gift of fantasy and take us away from all of it for a few minutes; let us enjoy this little fashion world of ours.”

Scott’s whimsical show may have come at a huge expense, but it was a much needed spectacular visual experience. As for the clothes, they were each re-proportioned to fit the dimensions of the marionettes without losing their authentic properties. The collection was an homage to haute couture and brought Scott’s masterful construction to the forefront of the collection, case in point, a cocktail dress that was sliced open, revealing another dress under it with a photograph of an inside-out embroidered dress. Other key looks included a feather trim gown with an exposed bone corseted bust, deconstructed cocktail dresses, as well as spliced outerwear.

When asked if fashion is still relevant, Scott  stated “People are like, ‘Sweatpants forever!’ But I love exciting things that are one-of-a-kind and refined. We’re all desperate for that. I constantly kept getting dressed up every day even if I wasn’t seeing people. It’s part of who I am.” The London and Milan shows seemed to prove that point.

So far it looks like NYFW, LFW and MFW are all channeling happier times. Reminds us of the old 1920s song by Jack Yellen & Milton Ager, Happy Days Are Here Again, became the the theme song of Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Presidential campaign in 1932 and is still played at Democratic conventions today.

So tell us, do you have a fav collection?