Looks from Nensi Dojaka’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Acielle StyleDuMonde)
It’s a wrap. London Fashion Week had one of its strongest seasons in years. In pure British style, the 5-day world-wind (Feb 17 – 21) combined a funeral, an awards show, the ‘coming out’ of Kate and William, designer debuts and some really great fashion shows. Held twice a year, London Fashion Week (LFW) is one of the most prestigious events in the fashion industry, showcasing the latest creations of some of the world’s most talented designers. LFW has been a major part of the global fashion calendar for over three decades and this year it became a British lollapalooza!
But first some history: London Fashion Week was first established in 1984, organized by the British Fashion Council (BFC) as a response to the dominance of Paris and Milan in the fashion world. The event was initially held in a West London car park, and featured just a handful of British designers, such as Jasper Conran and Betty Jackson. Over the years, London Fashion Week grew in popularity and stature, attracting a wider range of designers and international attention. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, it became a platform for emerging talent, with designers like Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney making their debuts. In 2009, London Fashion Week was merged with the London Fashion Weekender, a consumer-focused event that allowed members of the public to see fashion shows and buy clothes directly from designers. This move aimed to make fashion more accessible and inclusive to a wider audience.
In recent years, London Fashion Week has continued to evolve and innovate. It has embraced new technologies, such as live-streaming and social media, to reach a global audience (which was extremely useful during COVID-19 lockdowns). It has also become a major platform for sustainable and ethical fashion, with many designers using environmentally-friendly materials and production processes.
Looks from Erdem’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Acielle StyleDuMonde)
LFW now attracts thousands of visitors from around the world, including industry professionals, journalists, celebrities, and fashion enthusiasts. It remains an important event in the global fashion calendar, showcasing the creativity and diversity of British fashion.
A FUNERAL
Left To Right: Kate Moss, Helen Bonham Carter, Victoria Beckham, and Will Young all attended the late Vivienne Westwood’s memorial service. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)London Fashion Week kicked off in a somber mood as prominent guests in the fashion world gathered to pay their final respects at the funeral of the late Dame Vivienne Westwood which took place on Thursday 16 February at Southwark Cathedral in London. The funeral was a star-studded event where actress Helena Bonham Carter delivered the eulogy and Chrissie Hynde performed. The Cathedral was packed with Westwood’s family and friends as well as plenty of fashion industry guests included Marc Jacobs, Kate Moss, Tracey Emin, Victoria Beckham, Paul Smith, Zandra Rhodes, Bella Freud, Stephen Jones, Matty Bovan, and Ellen von Unwerth. Many guests paid tribute to the late Westwood as they followed one of Westwood’s many mottos, “When in doubt, dress up!” And dressed up they were, as they streamed into the Gothic cathedral in their finery to pay their final respects to the pioneering designer and activist, who died Dec. 29 at age 81.
AN AWARDS SHOW & A ROYAL PDA MOMENT
Kate Middleton’s cheeky gesture to Prince William as they walk the BAFTAs red carpet. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)
The Prince and Princess of Wales had a rare PDA Moment (public display of affection) at the BAFTAs (British Academy of Film & Television Award), which took place on Sunday, February 19th. The royals made sure to hold hands while walking down the red carpet and at one point the Princess playfully tapped William’s lower back as the paparazzi went wild. Princess Kate, who is a master at high-low dressing, looked stunning in a reworked Grecian Alexander McQueen gown (which she first debuted at the 2019 BAFTAs), paired with black gloves, and a pair of Zara earrings.
DESIGNER DEBUTS & HIGH BROW FASHION SHOWS
A look from Burberry’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Daniel Lee debuted his Burberry collection by sailing into uncharted territory with more terrific color (case in point, cobalt blue) and faux fur than the heritage brand has seen in its 167-year history. Lee’s new vision for the iconic British house came laced with an appropriately cheeky duck motif. “The ducks I just found very British,” he explained backstage after the show to Vogue Magazine. “It made me think of the outdoors, and Burberry is an outdoors brand. It reminded me of rain, and protection.” After all, raincoats are in the brand’s DNA.
Looks from S.S.Daley’s Fall 2022 Collection, Right, Sir Ian McKellen. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
S.S. Daley’s collection for Steven Stokey-Daley was pure theatre. For Daley’s menswear show, he enlisted British actor Sir Ian McKellen (Shakespeare, popular fantasy and science fiction), who opened the show reading a poem by Alfred, Lord Tennyson (of Ulysses and The Charge of the Light Brigade fame), a wildly unexpected surprise. AND OH SO HIGH-BROW!
A look from Simone Rocha’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Inspired by Lughnasadh, an Irish harvest festival with pagan origins, designer Simone Rocha turned her presentation into a ritual. The designer created beautiful lace gowns and crinolines that were stuffed with raffia.
A look from Dilara Findikoglu’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: GoRunway)
Turkish designer Dilara Findikoglu staged a fashion show entitled “Not a Man’s Territory,” which she stated came together after the arrest and death of Mahsa Amini in Iran late last year. The finale creation was Joan of Arc reincarnated, she told Vogue in an interview, “She’s coming back for revenge, dresses as she wants. And she has her knives.”
Looks from JW Anderson’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Acielle StyleDuMonde)
This season Jonathan Anderson was inspired by the Scottish dancer/choreographer Michael Clark. Looking through Clark’s archive, Anderson decided he needed to look through his own archives as well. The result, a collection that brings together costume details from Clark’s performances mixed with details from early JW Anderson collections. Overall, it was a cosmic dancer delight.
Looks from Christopher Kane’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Glamsquad)
Christopher Kane sent out a series of slinky jersey dresses, printed with hyperrealistic images of piglets, rats, and chicks – talk about animal magnetism.
Florence Pugh modeling a look from Harris Reed’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Launchmetrics)
Florence Pugh knows how to make an entrance. So, who better than the bona fide red carpet star herself to open Harris Reed’s theatrical Fall 2023 show? The actress wore a harlequin sequin skirt with a thigh-high slit, a black corset top and a massive halo headpiece. Pugh set the tone for the event with a speech written by Reed about the transformative power of clothes. “In a sometimes judgmental world, our costumes can change who we want to be seen as, and who we are destined to be,” she said. “I invite you to embrace the lamé and sequins of life, because all the world’s a stage.” Reed offered ten beautifully detailed looks dripping in sartorial theatrics.
So tell us, what was your favorite moment from London Fashion Week?
Looks from Dior’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Dior)
Happy 2023! As we all look with cautious optimism toward to a post pandemic world, fashion designers seemed to be conflicted when creating their Pre-Fall 2023 collection: practicality vs drama. For non-followers of fashion, most clothes seen on the runway seem frivolous, unwearable and created solely to shock ‘n awe. For the most part, that’s absolutely the truth. Do you ever watch a runaway show and say, “who’d ever wear that?” Well, you’re not alone. Most runway fashion are created for social media click bait. However, there are moments of wearable/salable fashion and those are featured in a fashion season called ‘Pre-Fall’.
Before we talk about some of the 2023 pre-fall trends, let’s discuss what this ‘season’ actually means. For starters, it’s the longest-running of all the fashion seasons (Spring, Summer, Resort Fall, Pre-Fall and Couture). It’s open to buyers and press in November and wraps up on the heels of spring couture in January. Usually, pre-fall collections offer more commercial looks, thus giving retailers the opportunity to introduce new merchandise to their customers between the fall and spring collections. Pre-fall, like resort, is an extremely important selling season with merchandise available on the sales floor and on e-commerce sites for up to six months.
A look from Balmain’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Balmain)
Today it has become increasingly difficult to define a particular season as designers show various interpretations of what exactly “pre-fall” means. The name (pre-fall) refers to autumn, but the deliveries hit stores and shopping sites in the beginning of summer. Confused yet? Designers present everything from fur coats to crochet dresses and everything in between. So, the terminology is perhaps a misnomer to many designers, retailers, and consumers. So shouldn’t the season be looked at as a transitional one? As designers address the needs of clients worldwide, where temperatures vary dramatically, especially as we experience climate change, and depending on what continent you live.
Chanel Pre-Fall 2023 is the first European fashion house to show in Sub-Saharan Africa. (Photo Credit: ID Magazine)Pre-fall can also be looked at as a prelude to the next runway collection; an opportunity to test what works and doesn’t work with clients. For many designers, pre-fall can help lay-out the groundwork for many of the silhouettes , colors, and ideas that appear in the following season.
So, as we continue to contemplate the churning out of merch that leads to more clothes in stores with less than stellar sales and their affect on our planet, here are the key Pre-Fall ‘practicality vs drama’ trends:
Netflix’s series Wednesday is breaking records for the streaming service, so it’s no surprise that Wednesday Adams has become a fashion muse. For pre-fall designers are showcasing a number of black lace looks.
A look from Etro’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Etro)
A look from Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini)
A look from Chanel Métiers d’art’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree)
A look from Stella McCartney’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Stella McCartney)
A look from Batsheva’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Batsheva)
IN TRENCHES
This Pre-Fall season the iconic trench coat is back in a major way, but these variations are anything but basic.
A look from Erdem’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Erdem)
A look from Lafayette 148’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Lafayette 148)
A look from Victoria Beckham’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Victoria Beckham)
A look from Stella McCartney’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Stella McCartney)
POCKET CHANGE
One of the biggest Y2K micro trends has been the return of oversized cargo pockets. From safari-inspired jackets to elegant sequin eveningwear. It looks like the cargo trend is here to stay thanks to its practically and ease.
A look from Ser.o.ya’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Ser.o.ya)
A look from Et Ochs’ Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Et Ochs)
A look from 3.1 Phillip Lim’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree)
A look from Diesel’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Diesel)
KNIT WIT
Sultry knits take center stage this season from effortless dresses to cropped cardigans.
A look from Givenchy’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Givenchy)
A look from Ferragamo’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Ferragamo)
A look from Hervé Leger’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Hervé Leger)
A look from Proenza Schouler’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Proenza Shouler)
A look from Thom Browne’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Thom Browne)
IN FRINGE
Designers are getting frisky this season with a variety of fringe looks from dramatic capes to sexy skirts.
A look from Roberto Cavalli’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Roberto Cavalli)
A look from LaPointe’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: LaPoint)
A look from Oscar de la Renta’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Oscar de la Renta)
A look from Hervé Leger’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Hervé Leger)
A look from Proenza Schouler’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Proenza Schouler)
COLLAR UP
Dramatic collars are back this season with a fresh take on the prim and proper motif.
A look from Erdem’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Erdem)
A look from Etro’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Etro)
A look from Alberta Ferretti’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Alberta Ferretti)
A look from Roberto Cavalli’s Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Roberto Cavalli)Balmain
GETTING READY TO CELEBRATE BLACK HISTORY MONTH
As the Pre-Fall season wraps on January 16th, the Martin Luther King holiday, and as we prepare to celebrate Black History Month in February, UOF wants to highlight a few of our favorite pre-fall looks created by people of color:
A look from Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Balmain)
A look from Christopher John Rogers’ Pre-Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Christopher John Rogers)
A video about Rihanna’s X Fenty upcoming collection. Video Credit Fashion Today on YouTube
Erdem’s show finale felt like a page being inscribed in the annals of British fashion history. This was a tribute to the Queen. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
London Fashion Week’s Spring 2023 season was like no other. England’s longest reigning monarch passed away on Sept. 8, at Balmoral Castle, plunging the nation into 10 days of official mourning. Queen Elizabeth II was 96 years old when she passed and ruled Britain 70 years. As per the Queen’s wishes, Prince Charles became King Charles III, as he promises to walk in his mother’s footsteps.
The Final Portrait of Queen Elizabeth II. (Photo Credit: Ranald Mackechnie, Courtesy of Buckingham Palace)
Shows were scheduled to begin September 15th and end on September20th, but major brands like Burberry chose to cancel their show altogether, and some wondered if fashion week would — or should — happen at all. But of course, the shows forged on as many designers paid their respects to her Royal Majesty.
On Sunday night, Sept. 18th — the eve of the funeral of Queen Elizabeth II — the line of people waiting to pay their last respects to the late monarch stretched so far through the heart of the British capital that it could be seen from space, according to The New York Times. The following morning, September 19, the queen’s state funeral took place at Westminster Abbey; then a legion of military officers towed her casket through the streets of London in a processional to Windsor Castle. Naturally, it was all very touching — from the little tantrums to the unbelievable crowds to the mournful bongs of Big Ben that backdropped the funeral march. Queen Elizabeth II is now at her final resting place which is marked with a new ledger stone in the King George VI Memorial chapel, Buckingham Palace has said. The stone slab bears the name of the late Queen, her husband Prince Philip, and her parents, with the two generations separated by a metal garter star.
While Britain is also a country with a national identity forged in times of heartache and trouble — of which there recently has been plenty for designers: the continuing fallout from Brexit, the pandemic, and the likelihood of recession. Out of respect for the Queen, all of the parties this season had been canceled, but many young designers rallied for their shows to go on. And thankfully they did, because London Fashion Week always serves up such inspirational fashion moments.
A look from JW Anderson’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Ayesha Kazim for The New York Times)
“It has been a challenging two years,” Harris Reed said in an interview with The New York Times. “Speaking with my fellow young designers, most of whom have put their entire brand budgets into shows to bring in sales and brand awareness, it is so important, now more than ever, to support the small brands in London.”
A look from Harris Reed’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
London has a reputation for embracing and nurturing young fashion talent, and this season there were a number of breakthrough emerging designers, such as Chopova Lowena and Karoline Vitto; but the fashion old guard also reminded us of why the capital’s fashion reputation also rests on the rich depth of its storytelling. And while London Fashion Week was filled with emotion, fashion designers proudly honored their Queen.
Looks from SimoneRocha’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Acielle)
A look from Chopova Lowena’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
Here are a few of the biggest trends that came out of London Fashion Week:
PAYING TRIBUTE TO THE QUEEN (ELIZABETH NOT ALEXANDER)
A number of British designers paid tribute to Queen Elizabeth II in their collections. Case in point, designer JW Anderson, whose finale was a black T-shirt with the words “Her Majesty The Queen 1926-2022 Thank you” on the front.
“It felt important to keep going, because this is a time when London needs to stick together, and right now some of this city’s young designers are at risk of losing their businesses,” JW Anderson said to New York Times reporters backstage, as revelers outside drank the night away. “That is an extremely British attitude.”
Here are a few other designers who honored the Queen this season.
JW Anderson, who fought to keep London Fashion Week alive in the midst of unprecedented “royal mourning,” ended his London Fashion Week show with six lovely words. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
A silent catwalk with the Union Jack wrapped tight around the heart at Dilara Findikoglu’s Spring Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)Traditional lace collars and black netted crowns took the spotlight at Richard Quinn, whose 2018 fashion show was attended by Queen Elizabeth II herself. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
Tiny crochet corgi dolls became a key accessory at RuiRui’s show. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)
The speakers went silent at the show for Halpern’s opening look, which paid homage to the 1957 ballgown the Queen wore to greet French president Charles de Gaulle. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Great Britain, ultra tiny dress. The Union Jack rises at Poster Girl’s Spring Show. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)
Bora Aksu’s show opened with a military drum salute before turning into a parade of looks inspired partly by the Queen’s military service in World War II. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
DOT ON
We will all be seeing spots this season as designers offered the playful graphic print on everything from dramatic suits to frothy frocks.
A look from Richard Quinn’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Molly Goddard’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Harris Reed’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Bora Aksu’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Halpern’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
CUT-IT-OUT
The sexy cut-out trend is going strong for spring especially in sultry gowns that will surly get you noticed at your next bash.
A look from Nensi Dojaka’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Halpern’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Christopher Kane’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from JW Anderson’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from David Koma’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A-ROUND-WE-GO
Bubble shapes are all the rage this spring 2023 season. From futuristic spear-shaped hemlines to rounded peplum shapes, these dramatic objects add a playful flare to your wardrobe.
A look from Richard Quinn’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from JW Anderson’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Harris Reed’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Dilara Findikoglu’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Christopher Kane’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
YOUR NOT SO BASIC TEE
Everyone’s favorite basic gets a quirky make-over this spring. And what timing! Just as UoF is about to launch an entire series on drafting cut & sew T-shirts and 4-way stretch knits!
A look from Christopher Kane’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Dilara Findikoglu’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Molly Goddard’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from JW Anderson’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
TRAINING DAY
Add some drama to your next affair with floor-sweeping trains. Whether you opt for the minimal slip dress version or a maximalist feathered skirt, these dramatic hemlines are oh so sexy.
A look from Harris Reed’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Halpern’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Erdem’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Christopher Kane’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from David Koma’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
FEELING FROU
Frothy, romantic ruffles were all over the runways during London Fashion Week.
A look from Molly Goddard’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Halpern’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Erdem’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Bora Aksu’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Simone Rocha’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
So tell us, what is your favorite spring 2023 trend so far?
Looks from Richard Quinn’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Just as Covid cases in some parts of the world are declining and restrictions are loosening, Russian President Vladimir Putin invaded Ukraine. The world watched in horror, as his deadly attack began in the early morning hours of February 24th. NATO has issued sanctions on Russia, but will they be enough to stop this escalating war? The world hopes so. Because if the last few years have taught humanity anything, it’s that in the grand scheme of things, we are nothing without health and peace.
As we try and navigate these troubling times, we can look to fashion as an escape from reality and to transform us into a world of fantasy. Last week UoF covered New York Fashion Week and this time we’ve crossed the pond to the London and Milan shows. Though our eyes may be focused on fashion…our hearts are definitely with the Ukrainian people.
SWINGING LONDON
Looks from Erdem’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
London Fashion week was a jam packed 5-day event that took place from Friday, February 18th to Tuesday, February 22nd. As we have come to accept, the fall 2022 season was a hybrid of physical shows as well as digital presentations, but thanks to England’s ease on Covid restrictions, the buzz around fashion week was the return of the IRL fashion show and events throughout the city. There were 86 physical womenswear and menswear shows and 61 digital presentations, which ranged from the well-established labels such as Vivienne Westwood, to emerging brands such as the breakout star of the week Nensi Dojaka.
Looks from Nensi Dojaka’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Here are a few of the hottest trends that emerged from London Fashion Week:
SHEER FACTOR
London based designers had nothing to hide this fall 2022 season as they played up the transparency theme – from the utterly see-through to the subtly sheer.
A look from Supriya Lele’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Simone Rocha’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Maximilian’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Temperley London’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Nensi Dojaka’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Christopher Kane’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
VELVET UNDERGROUND
Opulence filled the fall 2022 runways this season with luscious velvets in simple cocktail dresses, dramatic coats, and dramatic gowns.
A look from Simone Rocha’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Christopher Kane’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Edward Crutchley’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Paul & Joe’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree)
A look from 16Arlington’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Temperley London’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
THE EIGHTIES SHOW
This season, designers dug deep into the archives and pulled out bright colors and body-conscious silhouettes. Even the ‘pouf’, circa 80s Christian Lacroix, made a comeback!
A look from Emilia Wickstead’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from David Koma’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Richard Quinn’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Molly Goddard’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Simone Rocha’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Huishan Zhang’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
MANY SPLENDORED STRINGS
The collections were awash in a myriad of fabulous fringe motifs, perfect for the latter-day flapper ready to dance the night away.
A look from Halpern’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
A look from Christopher Kane’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Conner Ives’ Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Erdem’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Roksanda’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
Looks from Ozwald Boateng’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
IN FULL PLUME
Birds of a feather flock together, but if you want to break out as the next street style star, then bring on the feathers. The fall 2022 runways in London were filled with feathery looks that can be worn from day to night.
A look from Huishan Zhang’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from 16Arlington’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Paul & Joe’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree)
A look from Poster Girl’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree)
A look from Aadnevik’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree)
A look from Richard Quinn’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
CIAO MILANO
A backstage look from Moschino’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Although London lifted many of its Covid restrictions, Italy still has many restrictions in place, and will remain so until at least March 31. Only those who are fully vaccinated will be able to attend Milan Fashion Week, which began on Tuesday, February 22nd and ends Monday, February 28th.
The good news, Milan had a jam-packed schedule with plenty of physical runway shows and events. There were also plenty of fun events throughout the week such as Gucci’s all-day celebration of its new Gucci Vault, The World of Vogue Talents and the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards, both celebrated emerging designers and those who have taken extra steps to curb their impact on the planet.
So while Milan Fashion Week is still going strong, here are some of the emerging trends from the first half of the week:
BOUDOIR FLAIRE
Innerwear as outerwear continues to intrigue designers in Milan who showed a variety of lingerie inspired looks on the runway.
A look from Prada’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Fendi’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Sportmax’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from No. 21’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Blumarine’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Gucci’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
VISUAL EFFECTS
Fall’s graphic content turned towards eye-popping geometrics with a hint of op art.
A look from Max Mara’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Emporio Armani’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Missoni’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Prada’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
CAPE CRUSADERS
Remarkable outerwear stole the show during Milan Fashion Week, but the true breakout style were all the terrific capes that ran the gamut from dainty evening versions to cozy yet chic toppers.
A look from Gucci’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Moschino’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Raf Simons’ Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Tod’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Roberto Cavalli’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Alberta Ferretti’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
YARN IT ALL
Miles beyond your basic sweater, a wonderful tactile world of dresses, cardigans and coats await. Perfect for braving the cold.
A look from Blumarine’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Etro’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Tod’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Max Mara’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Alberta Ferretti’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
SHORT STORIES
No one does seductive as well as the Italians and for fall, designers showed barely there mini dresses and skirts all over the runway.
A look from Dundas’ Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Alberta Ferretti’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Etro’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Emporio Armani’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Missoni’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from No. 21’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
POINT OF HUE
Designers tempered their dark, wintery palette with a celebration of pastel colors, making the fall 2022 season a joyful rhapsody of hue.
A look from Fendi’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Sunnei’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from MM6 Maison Margiela’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Diesel’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Del Core’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Blumarine’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway
So tell us, what are your favorite runway trends so far for the fall 2022 season?
A look from Moschino’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
Let’s face it, the last two years of living in a worldwide pandemic has been tough on everyone. As we rang in 2022, many countries put a stop to festivities as the Omicron variant infected so many and spread so easily, even among the triple vaccinated (myself included). Thankfully this variant seems to be mild and not as deadly as Delta. But as the world watches and waits for life to return to some sort of normal, like the saying goes…the show must go on!
Throughout these past 2 pandemic years, designers and fashion companies have re-evaluated their business strategies and have put a greater focus on sustainability and improving their carbon footprint. In November of 2021, many in the fashion industry ramped up their climate efforts at the COP26 summit. According to the United Nations Climate Change website, “Fashion Charter signatories collectively represent a significant proportion of the fashion industry. There are currently 130 companies and 41 supporting organizations that have signed the Fashion Charter including some of the well-known brands such as Burberry, H&M Group, VF Corporation, Adidas, Kering, Chanel, Nike, and PUMA as well as suppliers such as Crystal Group, TAL Apparel and others.”
However, as the fashion industry tries to come up with solutions to help protect the environment, one thing is for sure, they continue to produce an endless supply of clothes to generate sales (hello, pre-fall and resort collections). For the past 20 years, fashion’s nonstop production cycles have been driven by social media, retailers, the press, and of course celebrity influencers. Celebs sell-out designer looks in minutes. Case in point, Kim Kardashian, who recently elevated Balenciaga’s sales while serving Kanye West with divorce papers dressed in Balenciaga. And, according to Love the Sales (a fashion e-commerce aggregator), the search for Balenciaga dresses increased by 200 percent in less then 24 hours when Kardashian, dressed foot-to-finger in Balenciaga, announced that she had passed the ‘baby bar’ exam. For your info, Kardashian will still have to continue her studies and take a second bar exam. Another influencer opportunity? Stay tuned.
Can’t help but wonder what Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg wore when she passed her bar exam, LOL.
Kim Kardashian celebrates passing the baby bar exam in Balenciaga. (Photo Credit: MSN)
So, as the industry explores ways to make fashion more sustainable and ‘circular’, enter Pre-Fall. But what is Pre-Fall exactly? For starters, it is the longest-running season open to buyers and press in November and wrapping up on the heels of spring couture week in January. Usually, Pre-Fall collections offer more commercial looks than the major runway seasons, offering retailers the opportunity to showcase new merchandise to their clients in between the Fall and Spring collections. Pre-Fall has become one of the most essential selling seasons, with product sitting on the sales floor for up to six months (usually from June to December).
While the name (pre-fall) refers to autumn, the merchandise actually hits the sales floor in early summer, translating to a hodgepodge assortment of everything from breezy dresses to outerwear.
Looks from Versace by Fendi’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
If this all sounds confusing, join the club. The lingo is perplexing to everyone – designers, retailers, and consumers – so shouldn’t the season be looked at as a transitional one? Shouldn’t it be a season that offers seasonless dressing, pieces that can be layered and worn all year long?
Also, how should designers present their collections? Do they throw a full scale fashion extravaganza like Gucci, Dior, and Chanel, or do they hold private appointments for press and retailers and show their collection via Lookbook images like Prabal Gurung and Christopher John Rogers?
As our industry continues to contemplate fashion’s impact on climate change, the use of influencers to promote product that will eventually will end up in landfills, and what the Pre-Fall season really means to them, the show must go on, right? Here are some of the trends we’re watching thus far:
VELVET CRUSH
The plush life – for both day and night.
A look from Balmain’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Proenza Schoular’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Roberto Cavalli’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Jil Sander’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
Look from Dsquared2’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
Check mate! Designers are going mad for plaid from Oscar de la Renta’s mixed patchwork plaid numbers to Christian Dior’s logo-driven tartans. These ultra cool looks are anything but ‘elementary my dear’.
A look from Christian Dior’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from R13’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Roberto Cavalli’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Tory Burch’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
Looks from Oscar de la Renta’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
Comfy doesn’t always have to mean casual. For pre-fall, designers looked back to every Y2K girls favorite knit piece and brought back the beloved cardigan sweater. From Gucci’s strawberry motif to Erdem’s crystal button version, these sweaters are the perfect update to transition into cooler weather.
A look from Gucci’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Erdem’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Chanel’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Prabal Gurung’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Ganni’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
Whether you’re a beginner, intermediate or advanced knitter, have we got lessons for you! In fact, we have a whole Knit Series.
Start with Introduction to Knit Fabrics and move into our hand-knitting, crocheting and our lessons on cut and sew knits.
FAIR LEATHER
Real or faux, leather outerwear is all the rage this pre-fall season. From Chloé’s crafty version to Balenciaga’s futuristic coat, this outerwear trend will surely set you apart from the crowd.
A look from Chloé’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Max Mara’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
Looks from Brandon Maxwell’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Christian Dior’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
To learn how to draw and illustrate leather or any shiny material, view our lesson Rendering Leather.
THE RETURN OF THE MINI
The leg-baring mini trend has made its triumphant return! The mini was first introduced in the ‘60s as a playful and even defiant garment representing a shift in societal dynamics (according to Vogue Magazine). For pre-fall, designers have created mini looks in a variety of ways, from Givenchy’s simple black mini skirt suit look to Balmain’s baroque inspired minidress, one things for sure, it’s time to hit the gym and work on those legs.
A look from Balmain’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Chanel’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Givenchy’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Carolina Herrera’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
Looks from Oscar de la Renta’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
Vibrant scarf prints took over the pre-fall season, from Versace’s baroque inspired prints to Etro’s ‘70s inspired paisley motifs. These scarf inspired patterns will take you from vacation and beyond.
Looks from Versace’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
Looks from Oscar de la Renta’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Christopher John Rogers’ Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Gucci’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Etro’s Pre-Fall Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
If the scarf trend has inspired you to re-purpose your old scarves into clothing, then you may need a refresher on how to sew sheer seams and hems. From learning how to sew a French Seam Finish to sewing a Hand-rolled Hem, we have a whole series on working with sheers.
Versace’s Pre-Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Theo Sion for Versace)
As we begin 2021, many of us are looking forward with hope to a vaccine that will help get us back to our pre-Covid lives. It can’t come a minute too soon. But what started out as a year of hope, took a discouraging turn here in the U.S. when only 6 days into 2021, we witnessed an insurrection in a failed attempt to bring down our government. As we write this, we still can’t believe it! It was a very sad day for our democracy.
So, who doesn’t need a little fashion in their life right about now? Thank goodness for Pre-Fall. Fashion designers are celebrating the new year by promoting a return to ‘dressing up.’ They want us to ditch our sweats and leisurewear and put some fashion effort into our lives. Sounds good to me! And once again, due to Covid restrictions, these designers came up with creative ways to present their collections.
GUCCI
(Video Credit: Gucci)
Leave it to Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, to present his Pre-Fall 2021 collection in a manner that is just as eclectic and creative as his clothes. Michele collaborated with American filmmaker Gus Van Sant, and the two creative geniuses came up with the project known as “GucciFest.” A digital project of 90 minutes shot throughout Rome over a 20-day period. The outcome, a seven-episode miniseries of visual delight.
The miniseries features plenty of familiar faces. In episode three, Ouverture of Something That Never Ended, the film starred Harry Styles. Styles, is not only known his music but also for his gender-fluid approach to fashion. The pop star made a cameo wearing a pink Gucci tee tucked into eco denim washed shorts. “When it comes to making art it’s about finding the thing you’ve always wanted to see that has never been made,” Styles says in the film while talking on a phone call. “It’s always an uncomfortable moment, I think, when you find the thing. You don’t know if you love it or hate it because you don’t really know what it is yet. But I think that’s the most exciting place to work in.”
The fashionable miniseries also includes stars such as Florence Welch (of the band, Florence and the Machine) in a vintage shop setting, as well as Billie Eilish (needs no explanation) walking her pet robot dog. The star of the miniseries, Italian actress Silvia Calderoni, is filmed throughout the empty ancient streets of Rome, all decked out in Gucci from head-to-toe.
As for the looks, they were Michele’s maximist aesthetic to the max. The collection had plenty of vibrant festive looks that ranged from a sequin pink and green zig-zag pattern pant paired with a purple sequin top and green bed-jacket; a purple pantsuit with gold embroidery; sheer lace lingerie inspired pieces; and plenty of beastly fur outerwear. For day, Michele featured a capsule of casual looks such as a blue athletic suit with the Gucci stripe running down the side; logo athletic t-shirts; flared denim pants; and plenty of denim shorts. The creative director also showed plenty of his vintage, ‘70s inspired looks with floral dresses; bow blouses; and geometric print coats.
Kudos to Michele for presenting his collection in such a creative, attention grabbing way.
CHANEL
(Video credit: Chanel)
As the old saying goes, “The show must go on!” And so Chanel filmed it’s pre-fall 2021 show at the Château de Chenonceau with a cast and crew of 300 and precisely one VIP guest: Kristen Stewart.
The Château de Chenonceau, is one of the jewels of France’s Loire Valley. The castle belonged to Catherine de’ Medici, the Italian-born, former queen of France, and throughout the grand estate you can find interlocking Cs, which were the Queen’s initials, but today, they look incredibly similar to the Chanel logo. The grand estate is also known as the Ladies’ Château, according to WWD, “Chenonceau has a history marked by a succession of powerful women, of which the Renaissance rulers, in particular, inspired the label’s founder, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel. That the French fashion house chose to stage its Métiers d’Art collection there is therefore something of a full-circle moment.”
The iconic house had hoped to invite approximately 200 guests to creative director Virginie Viard’s first fashion show outside of Paris, but due to a second lockdown in France, the brand was forced to revise its plans. So aside from the cast and crew, the show had only one guest, Kristen Stuart who will be featured in ads for the collection photographed by Juergen Teller.
As for Viard’s pre-fall collection for Chanel, she was inspired by many aspects of the 16th century castle. Lining the infamous chateau are beautiful gardens created by King Henry II’s mistress, Diane de Poitiers. Viard channeled the parterre designs of the garden and the delicate flowers as she reinterpreted the feminine motifs into rich embroideries. It was “a sophisticated take on a “Disney” Viard stated in an interview with WWD.
The creative director was also mesmerized by the chateau’s black and white checkerboard floors, which was a reoccurring print theme throughout the collection as Viard applied the motif to chessboard sequin miniskirts to fringe tweed maxi skirts. Overall, the collection had a Goth princess aesthetic with dramatic capes, poet blouses, and plenty of transparent black dresses.
Viard also played tribute to Coco Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld with her own playful interpretation of trompe l’oeil looks, with reimagines of the castle in Lego-like sequin bricks, used as cummerbund sashes that cinch the waists of full satin ball skirts and strapless gowns. The chateau’s tapestries also inspired Viard’s intarsia knit and embroidered sweaters. While the collection at times veered towards costume, there were still plenty of signature tweed jackets that the Chanel customers crave.
CHRISTIAN DIOR
(Video credit: Christian Dior)
Living in lockdown has been hard on all of us. Even the most fashionable influencers have photographed themselves in sweats and furry slippers. The spring collections were even filled with leisure-inspired looks that we all craved while many of us work from home, but Maria Grazia Chiuri, the creative director of Christian Dior, has had enough. For her pre-fall collection, Chiuri created her most animated collection to date. In an interview with Vogue Runway, the creative director states, “Now, we desire something that gives us energy. Something completely different.”
“After this year—so intense, so depressing—I would like to come back to the fashion that started my career: the playfulness that attracted me and my generation to fashion, and transform the Dior codes through this attitude,” she said. For Chiuri, a child of the 1970s, those roads had to lead to Elio Fiorucci. “My generation was super influenced by pop culture,” Chiuri recalled in the Vogue Runway interview. “At Fiorucci we saw another way of fashion. It was probably the moment that fashion was born in Italy, because we left our traditional clothes to go to this toy store and discover clothes we’d never seen in our life: different materials, and clothes from around the world.”
Inspired by Pop Art, Chiuri created an uncharacteristically colorful collection that was lighthearted and fun. The cheeky collection was filled with unapologetically fun pieces: a leopard coat; a silver jumpsuit; mirrored sequined party dresses; logo transparent raincoats; bold check mini skirt suits; and a humorous T Rex print that was found on everything from dresses to tote bags. In her atelier, Chiuri said, “We decided that when this is all over, we’re each going to choose a different color dress and have a big party. That’s the dream: to dance together.”
It was only two months ago that Vice President-elect Kamala Harris wore a white pantsuit from Carolina Herrera for her acceptance speech. Harris chose white as a tribute to the woman’s suffrage movement and her Carolina Herrera suit will be forever be synonymous with Harris’ ceiling-shattering moment.
For pre-fall, Carolina Herrera’s creative director, Wes Gordon, emphasized the more playful side of the brand’s aesthetic. Gordon hopes that by the time the collection hits stores (between May and June) the world will be on a clear path to vaccination.
Inspired by Mia Farrow, circa Rosemary’s Baby, there was a nod to the swinging sixties with black and white zebra prints, polka dot patterns. in an assortment of sizes and colors, as well as the houses signature bow motifs. The collection was joyful and energetic with looks that ran the gamut from brightly hued ballgown skirts to multi-colored dotted shirtdresses.
Gordon struck the perfect balance between youthful and sophistication.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
Oscar de la Renta’s Pre-Fall 2021 Collection. (Image credit: Oscar de la Renta)
Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia’s collection for Oscar de la Renta was a joie de vivre celebration. The optimistic collection was filled with vibrant colors, fruity prints, and plenty of skin.
The design duo dug into the house’s archives and were inspired by a pineapple motif worn by Linda Evangelista in a 1992 Oscar collection; they were looking for something happy and light after this dark pandemic year we’re all living through. The pineapple pattern was found on several looks ranging from a block print on a simple green shift to a life-like color on a bandeau top with pouf sleeves. Other key looks included an array of brightly colored shorts, short day dresses, playful striped rompers, and a few strapless cocktail confections.
Garcia joked in an interview with Vogue Runway, “Piña coladas all day long.”
So tell us, how optimistic are you feeling in your fashion choices for 2021?
Bora Aksu’s Spring 2021 Presentation. (Photo: Courtesy of Bora Aksu)
ON WITH THE SHOW!
While New York showed only a handful of live shows and presentations due to Covid concerns, at London and Milan fashion week it was almost business as usual. London designers staged over 30 live shows, presentations, fashion events or personal appointments, while Milan blended 28 physical shows with 24 digital ones, making Milan, thus far, the city with the most in real life showings. As American buyers, the fashion press (and the rest of us) virtually crossed the pond for London and Milan fashion week, we all got to watch some pretty amazing spring 2021 fashion in the privacy of our home, sitting on our pandemic-safe couch. Gotta love technology!
LONDON’S CALLING
A look from Gareth Pugh’s Spring 2021 Collection. (Photo: Courtesy of Gareth Pugh)
Stating that all live events would adhere to social distancing and hygiene g regulations, the British Fashion Council kicked off LFW on September 17th and wrapped up on September 22. Burberry opened the season with a live-streamed outdoor show to rave reviews. Throughout the week 80 designers took part in London Fashion Week – 30 IRL (in real life) and 50 digitally.
The week hosted a mix of womenswear and menswear designers, but what really stood out was that the season will no longer be known as Spring 2021, but rather “London Fashion Week September 2020,” in a move towards a more season-less approach.
Here are the highlights:
BURBERRY
Riccardo Tisci opened London Fashion Week with a bang. The influential designer live-streamed his Burberry show in a hauntingly beautiful forest. His theme: “a love story between a mermaid and a shark.” The dark theme was the perfect parable as to how we’ve all felt the past seven months locked in quarantine and working from home. Tisci’s under-the-sea analogy was anything but kitsch. The collection was rather chic and sophisticated with beautiful shades of blues; “Blue is the new beige,” Tisci teased in an interview with Vogue Runway, name-checking Burberry’s signature color.
Being in quarantine with his 92 year-old mother and relatives in his childhood home near Lake Cuomo was a breath of fresh air for the designer and gave him a new sense of appreciation for life. According to his Vogue interview, the rootsy surroundings of his quarantine made him reconnect with his childhood and the innocent mindset with which he pursued those dreams. “You open the drawer of your past and see how far you’ve gone as a person, how much you’ve done for yourself, and for others. Your dreams have come true,” he reflected.
His collection for Burberry was filled with sea-centric references – from illustrations to embellishments – that were innocent and raw. Tisci’s shark motif has been a signature of the designer from the start of his career. As for his mermaids, Tisci worked with peplum shapes, glistening dresses, and spliced trench coats.
Tisci perfectly infused Burberry’s classic aesthetic with his signature street-style. Sometimes, going back to your roots is what a designer needs to find their footing again, as his mother would say, Bravo Riccardo!
DURO OLOWU
A look from Duro Olowu’s presentation. (Photo Credit: Luis Monteiro for Duro Olowu)
There is no doubt about it, 2020 will forever be known as the year of the sweatsuit. But as Duro Olowu puts it quite simply in an interview with Vogue Runway, “Ease doesn’t have to mean track pants.”
Olowu presented his collection to a handful of editors and buyers in his London boutique. The joyful collection was filled with bold colors and striking prints that were inspired by Emma Amos, an African American painter who died in May of this year. Olowu infused bold hand-painted striped prints that were chic and sophisticated, case in point, the elongated tunic over wide leg pants, gave off an elegant loungewear vibe.
The designer is also experimenting with new shapes, focusing on sarong-like midi-length silhouettes that feel fresh and new. His line-up was filled with 1950s lean looks that were refined yet youthful. These clothes are a promise to brighter days ahead and they definitely will put a smile on your face.
MOLLY GODDARD
A look from Molly Goddard’s Spring 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Ben Broomfield for Molly Goddard)
Molly Goddard held intimate appointments in her studio as she presented her eclectic spring collection filled with bright, frothy, tulle confections. Mannequins were scattered throughout the space, each wearing one on Goddard’s jubilant looks. The collection was filled with ruffled, voluminous skirts and dresses, all in vibrant colors, as well as checkerboard neon sweaters, an A-line anorak dress and even floral printed denim pants.
Also, for the first time, Goddard decided to offer many of her unique dresses in white, which would make the perfect wedding dress for the cool young bride who wants an anything but traditional dress.
SIMONE ROCHA
A look from Simone Rocha’s spring 2021 collection. (Photo: Courtesy of Simone Rocha)
With all the COVID-19 U.K. regulations set in place, Simone Rocha held an intimate presentation at the Hauser & Wirth gallery. The cavernous white walls were the perfect backdrop for Rocha’s beautifully, intricate looks to come to life. In an interview with Vogue Runway, Rocha stated “I’m not going to lie: I’ll be the first to say I love runway shows, now that the pace of shows has been stripped away, I wanted to find a space to represent that. It’s important to me to find a way to physically share the collection, just for the silhouette, texture, and weight of it. Clothes are made of cloth, and emotions, and they come to life on a body.”
Rocha’s collection was filled with voluminous, rounded shapes in gilded brocades, rich cotton embroideries, delicate pearl embroideries, and intricate scalloped edge cottons. Close up, the layers held little messages: on tulle veiling, patterns of castles; in the broderie anglaise, SR monograms. “Castles in faraway places,” Rocha laughed. “I think that’s the escapism we’re all craving.”
ERDEM
Just like Riccardo Tisci for Burberry, Erdem Moralioglu was inspired by fantasy for his spring 2021 collection and also opted to hold an audience-less runway show in the English forest. Moralioglu spent his quarantine time reading. His collection was inspired by a Susan Sontag novel, The Volcano Lover, Sontag’s portrait of the 18th-century beauty Emma Hamilton who married a volcanologist obsessed with Grecian vases and had a passionate love affair with Lord Nelson.
Moralioglu, like his inspiration, looked to beauty during this fearful time. The designer featured regal 18th century-inspired floral jacquard dresses with puff-sleeves juxtaposed against cozy cardigans, military-inspired outerwear and an embroidered admiral jacket.
In an interview with Vogue Runway, Moralioglu stated, “I get asked the same question: Are women’s tastes and wants changing now, given the situation? On the contrary, we have a customer who’s still buying special pieces. It’s the want for something you can wear in five and 10 years. As I enter my 15th year doing this, the most thrilling thing is seeing someone wearing your work from 10 years ago. I’ve always been obsessed with permanence. When it feels like the end of the world, doesn’t someone need a pink moiré hand-embroidered gown?”
CHRISTOPHER KANE
An abstract painterly look from Christopher Kane. (Photo: Courtesy of Chrisopher Kane)
If this pandemic has taught us anything (other than the importance of wearing a mask, frequent hand-washing and social distancing) it’s a time for reflection, a reminder not to put off things that bring you joy. Christopher Kane did just that in his spring 2021 collection. The designer revisited his love of painting using multicolored glitter that he experimented with as a kid. Kane’s flagship store was turned into an exhibition space for his collection presentation, with easels and canvases featuring his paintings that he’d created during lockdown.
As for the clothes, which were displayed on mannequins, Kane recreated his artwork onto coats, dresses, and tops. Key looks included a brushstroke print long sleeve midi dress, a paint dot splatter shirt, and a brush-stroke striped sweater. With this charming collection one thing is clear, Kane had a lot of fun creating these pieces.
MILANO MODA
Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring 2021 patchwork show was inspired by Sicily. (Photo Credit: Gorunway.com)
Leave it to the Italians to add a new word to fashion’s lexicon. Milan’s Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana billed the city’s spring 2021 shows as a “phygital fashion week.” Phygital fashion week is a portmanteau, a blend of physical, in person shows, and a digital show, a format that has become essential during COVID. Milan’s phygital fashion week took place from September 22 – 28th.
Everyone in the fashion community is asking themselves…is this hybrid model of phygital shows and presentations the future of fashion week? Only time will tell.
PRADA
Prada was hands-down the most anticipated show of the season and rightfully so, since this was the debut of the Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons collaboration. The partnership was announced last February, pre-pandemic lockdown, and it was probably the most celebrated fashion news of 2020. The designers staged a digital runway show that was viewed on Prada.com and then opened up to a conversation with Prada and Simons answering questions that were submitted online. It was a genius move, giving Prada consumers the chance to listen to their “backstage-conversation.”
As for the clothes, a new Prada ‘uniform’ was introduced. You may remember that in the ‘90s Prada’s minimalistic uniform looks launched Miuccia Prada into fashion stardom. According to Miuccia and Simmons, the new Prada is all about paring back and the streamlining of excesses to get at what’s essential. The collection’s 40 looks were composed of long, narrow trousers; a sleeveless, tunic-length tee with the famous triangle logo; statement making outerwear with clutched coats; full skirts; holey (not the religious kind) knits; all worn with pointy-toed slingback kitten heels in a contrasting color. “How Miuccia dresses is very often a kind of uniform one way or another, and that was direct inspiration for me for the show,” Simons said in the interview.
The collection was filled with past references that became signatures for both designers. Case in point, Prada’s spring 1996 show of “ugly prints” reemerged on hoodies and matching full skirts, as well words and graphic silk-screened motifs on pastel shift dresses, a representation of Simmons’ personal work.
Miuccia and Simons lived up to the fashion world’s anticipation and thus far was the show of the season.
FENDI
Fendi opened Milan Fashion Week with the first in-person, live, runway show, featuring both their men’s and women’s collections. And the fashion crowd couldn’t be happier. The show opened with photographic prints taken by Silvia Venturini Fendi from her bedroom window during lockdown. These soft graphic prints were found on everything from transparent shirt dresses, to tailored blazers and men’s suits.
As Italy was the first of the European cities to suffer from Covid 19, spending several months in lock-down mode, Fendi believes this will forever change the way we dress, and answered the call with sophisticated alternatives for WFH (work-from-home) looks. The collection had plenty of chic loungewear and pajama fashion, as well as floaty wood-printed caftans. Fendi closed the show with bedding-inspired looks that ranged from cozy satin quilted outerwear to pale lace embroidered linen tops and skirts. “This reminded me of Karl [Lagerfeld],” said Fendi pre-show in an interview with Vogue Runaway: “He had a love for bed linen, he had a big collection.”
This collection marked the final transition of Silvia’s decades long collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld, and her latest collaboration with newly appointed creative director Kim Jones. This announcement will surely make Fendi the most anticipated show for the Fall 2022.
ETRO
Etro’s Spring 2021 Show. (Photo Credit: Gorunway.com)
The COVID-19 pandemic has been a difficult and terrifying time for us all, but if there is any silver lining to this nightmare, it is that the lockdowns have brought many families back together. This is the case for Veronica Etro, as she spent her time during lockdown at home with her mom as they listened to old Neapolitan songs, “we were bewitched by the serenity, the timelessness, and the elegance” Veronica Etro stated during her pre-show press conference. The music made her reminisce about her “2019 trip to Ischia, Capri, Naples, and Positano, and—maybe because we were so patriotic during that period—I thought, okay, let’s make the collection all about Italy.”
Veronica dug deep into her family’s print archives and turned out a youthful and vibrant collection filled with effortless vacation looks that ranged from a sexy scarf print bikini worn under a glamorous open front maxi skirt, to charming marinière knits. There were plenty of effortlessly chic printed dresses; flirty nautical themed bra tops and shorts; as well as youthful paisley shorts worn with menswear inspired shirts.
This charming collection was the perfect beach escape for next summer and beyond.
ALBERTA FERRETTI
A look from Alberta Ferretti’s Spring 2021 Show. (Photo Credit: Corunway.com)
Alberta Ferretti also opted for a live, in-person show this season, as she held her runway extravaganza in the open air in one of the courtyards of Milan’s Castello Sforzesco, as guests enjoyed the sunshine. The perfect backdrop to Ferretti’s signature romantic aesthetic.
The collection was a stark contrast to the state of the world. In a pre-interview with Vogue Runway, Ferretti stated, “In this difficult situation, so harsh and unforgiving in many ways, my gut instinct was to embrace kindness and a certain seductive softness. I believe that it stems from self-confidence and from the acceptance of the natural power of femininity.”
Ferretti’s approach to the season was practical, as she offered her women a wardrobe that fits all of their needs. The designer showed a variety of feminine dresses that ranged from ethereal, flowing, maxi dresses to flirty macramé lace mini dresses – all with a bohemian yet sophisticated hand. The collection also featured plenty of every-day pieces, such as pastel denim pants, high-waisted fitted trousers paired with bralettes, embroidered tops and cropped blouses. Overall, Ferretti’s collection was a sophisticated and fresh approach to femininity.
VERSACE
Always with a flair for the dramatic, Donatella Versace literally took her viewers “under the sea” for her spring 2021 collection: the aquatic theme being a reoccurring motif for many designers this season. Versace staged a full on live-streamed show, with no audience, just her team. The runway’s backdrop…the imagined ruins of Atlantis with a water current streaming down its projected walls. The mythical backdrop was the perfect setting for Versace’s provocative ocean-themed collection.
Ever since the Versace label launched in 1978, by her beloved brother Gianni, the brand has always been known for its sex appeal and its loud and vibrant prints and colors. For spring 2021, Donatella embraced the DNA of the house and it was a joyful ode to life, featuring both menswear and womenswear looks. Versace started off with a maritime motif with tailored navy blazers and shorts. Then the collection took on a Malibu Barbie twist, with vibrant prints in pumped-up colors. Starfish print dresses that ranged from sheaths to baby-doll silhouettes; coral reef motif and ocean themes made their way onto everything, from skirts and tops to shorts and swimwear. Versace also showed moments of ingenuity with micro-pleated dresses trimmed with twirly ruffles, which resembled a graceful jellyfish swimming in the ocean.
Versace stated that her archival sea collection was also a metaphor for a new world of wonders, which translated to a diverse runway. The co-ed show was cast with a variety of ethnicities, as well as diversified sizes, embracing her message of body positivity and gender-nonconformity. Brava Donatella for such an inclusive representation of the world.
MOSCHINO
Let’s give it up to Jeremy Scott for producing the most creative show of the season. The digital masterpiece was an elaborate puppet show with marionette replicas of his favorite models walking down a runway and doll replications of his audience. It was a visual delight that eased the stress of a world gone mad. In an interview with Vogue Runway, Scott stated, “The best thing I could do for everyone who’s stressed about the election, the pandemic, social unrest, and the future was to give the gift of fantasy and take us away from all of it for a few minutes; let us enjoy this little fashion world of ours.”
Scott’s whimsical show may have come at a huge expense, but it was a much needed spectacular visual experience. As for the clothes, they were each re-proportioned to fit the dimensions of the marionettes without losing their authentic properties. The collection was an homage to haute couture and brought Scott’s masterful construction to the forefront of the collection, case in point, a cocktail dress that was sliced open, revealing another dress under it with a photograph of an inside-out embroidered dress. Other key looks included a feather trim gown with an exposed bone corseted bust, deconstructed cocktail dresses, as well as spliced outerwear.
When asked if fashion is still relevant, Scott stated “People are like, ‘Sweatpants forever!’ But I love exciting things that are one-of-a-kind and refined. We’re all desperate for that. I constantly kept getting dressed up every day even if I wasn’t seeing people. It’s part of who I am.” The London and Milan shows seemed to prove that point.
So far it looks like NYFW, LFW and MFW are all channeling happier times. Reminds us of the old 1920s song by Jack Yellen & Milton Ager, Happy Days Are Here Again, became the the theme song of Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Presidential campaign in 1932 and is still played at Democratic conventions today.
Erdem’s resort collection draws on the juxtaposition of Regency dress and the 1960s. (Photo Credit: Erdem)
COVID-19 has changed the world, no doubt about it. This deadly pandemic took many innocent lives and toppled global economies in just months. It is unfathomable how every industry has been affected and how each is racing to adapt to a new way of doing business. The fashion industry is no exception. As our industry grapples with millions of dollars in losses, stockpiles of unsold merchandise, and store closures and bankruptcies that resulted in thousands of people being furloughed, the industry is also grappling with the future of the fashion show.
You may remember our blogpost back on November 18, 2019, we covered the topic of whether fashion shows are still relevant. Well, who knew back then that a deadly pandemic would help make the decision for us.
As we wait for scientists and doctors to advise us on when it will become safe enough to gather in large groups, the idea of presenting and attending live fashion shows seems far off. Though LVMH just announced that their brands will produce a live show this fall, most designers are getting creative with new ways to showcase their collections. Here is a rundown of what the new fashion calendar will look like.
RESORT/CRUISE 2021
On March 27th, the CFDA announced the cancellation of the official New York Fashion Week Resort 2021 schedule of presentations, which had been planned for the week of June 6. According to a statement by the CFDA, “The decision was based on the current global situation, the ongoing uncertainty regarding its impact on retailers and their open-to-buys, and designers’ challenges in producing collections at this moment,” the statement read. “We strongly recommend and urge designers not to show their resort spring 2021 collections. The news followed similar announcements by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana in Milan and the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode in Paris to postpone or cancel their respective spring 2021 men’s collections, as well as the fall 2020 haute couture shows.”
The resort 2021 season would have been in full swing by now with many of the bigger brands holding mega-shows in exotic locations, while the majority would hold intimate shows or appointments in New York City. As a result of Covid, many designers chose to skip the season altogether citing worldwide factory lockdowns, huge sales losses on spring merchandise and the inability to receive the fabrics and trimmings needed to create a collection. However, a few designers did opt to present their collections, through videos and lookbook images. Here are a few ways designers became creative with presenting their latest collections.
CHANEL
A look from Chanel’s Resort 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Chanel).
The Chanel cruise 2021 collection was originally intended to be shown onto Isle of Capri, the mythically beautiful Italian island a ferry ride from Naples, a place that Chanel’s creative director Virginie Viard still has yet to visit. But while on lockdown, Viard traveled there ‘in her mind’ and created a collection labeled Balade en Méditerranée (A Mediterranean Jaunt). Viard, along with photographer Karim Sadli, created the illusion of a Caprese sunset in Chanel’s Paris photo studio.
As for the clothes, Viard created a destination wardrobe of effortless pieces, which were sophisticated yet oh so cool. The designer focused on swimsuits that were worn – every which way – as under-pieces to cardigan jackets to tops paired with wide-legged trousers. Viard also updated the classic Chanel suit, opting for vibrant little jackets and miniskirts – all in cotton tweed. The collection was injected with a youthful appeal with a maxi cardigan paired with micro shorts, a collarless jacket paired with denim pants with tweed insets, and a bandeau top paired with a handkerchief skirt. Overall the collection was the ultimate vacation wardrobe.
BALMAIN
A look from Balmain’s Resort 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Balmain)
The Eighties made a major comeback at Balmain, as creative director Olivier Rousteing created a fun and cheeky collection for both his woman’s resort collection and his menswear spring 2021 line up. The designer invited a handful of his “Balmain army” friends to style themselves in his latest looks. Clearly Rousteing has spent his quarantine time watching 80s films and television shows; the collections were filled with Miami Vice inspired jackets, polka dot dresses inspired by Pretty Woman, graphic t-shirt mash-ups with a nod to The Fresh Prince of Bel Air, while heavily encrusted bustiers and exaggerated shoulder pads were straight out of Dynasty’s wardrobe. With all the turmoil in the world today, Rousteing’s collections were a throwback to happier times.
TANYA TAYLOR
A look from Tanya Taylor’s Resort 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Tanya Taylor)
Being on lockdown brought out many innovative ideas and designer Tanya Taylor came up with a very creative way to showcase her resort line-up. Taylor sent her latest collection to a handful of artists, stylists, and friends, with instructions that each one was to style themselves in one of here looks and then photograph themselves. The results were a lookbook come to life. In an interview with Vogue, Taylor stated, “I’ve never loved styling our customer. I prefer seeing what they do with our clothes and how they add their own personal twist. That’s where the lookbook came to life. It felt like these women were telling us how they want to feel in their clothes.”
As for the clothes, they were infused with Taylor’s signature feminine charm. There was a vibrant fuchsia jumpsuit, ruffled trim wrap skirts, playful print dresses, flirty dot motifs and for evening, a pleated lame one-shoulder dress..
GANNI
A look from Ganni’s Resort 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Ganni)
The husband and wife team behind Danish brand Ganni, Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup, literally designed their resort collection in their home kitchen, so it felt only natural for the duo to shoot their lookbook in the kitchen. The collection focused on the foundation pieces that have made Ganni such a coveted brand among the “It-Girl” set. There were pilgrim collars, bubble sleeve mini dresses, striped tops and party dresses to dance the night away once a coronavirus vaccine is found.
RAG & BONE
A look from Rag & Bone’s men’s resort collection. (Photo Credit: Rag & Bone)
A look from Rag & Bone’s woman’s resort collection. (Photo Credit: Rag & Bone)
Marcus Wainwright of Rag & Bone, focused on pieces that make their customers feel good. The collection was filled with classics with a modern twist. These are pieces that you can live in and wear all winter long.
DAVID KOMA
A look from David Koma’s Resort 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: David Koma)
David Koma is known for his glamourous collections and for resort he did not shy away from his campy aesthetic. The collection was filled with sexy crystal embellished dresses, body-con neon dresses, patent leather biker shorts and plenty of corsets. Koma’s girls are ready to step out into the world of cocktails and celebration.
LONDON MEN’S SHOWS
Natasha Zinko x Duo Spring 2021 Menswear Collection in London. (Photo Credit: Natasha Zinko x Duo)
Right around now, Europe would have held their menswear fashion shows in London, Milan, and Paris. In lieu of traditional shows, Industry leaders came up with creative solutions. The British Fashion Council hosted a three-day coed digital week, which took place from June 12-14. This event brought together British brands that shared creative content that varied from podcasts to photo diaries. “By creating a cultural fashion week platform, we are adapting digital innovation to best fit our needs today and something to build on as a global showcase for the future,” Caroline Rush, the chief executive of the British Fashion Council, said in a press release.
E. Tautz’s spring 2021 menswear collection in London. (Photo Credit: E. Tautz)
However, many British coed brands like Burberry are holding off on showcasing their spring collections until September. It will be a runway show, outdoors with no audience, following social distancing guidelines. The only people in attendance will be the models and members of the Burberry team.
PARIS’ NEW SCHEDULE
Hermès will be livestreaming a digital experience tied to its spring 2021 collection, slated to go live on July 5th at 8 a.m. ET.
The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) will host the first-ever virtual couture fashion week. The three day event will take place from July 6-8th and accredited couture maisons will present videos and complementary content that will go live on a preset show schedule, replicating the format of a physical couture fashion week. Although Giorgio Armani will skip out of showing his couture collection this season, the Italian designer will host a seasonless Privé show at the Palazzo Orsini in January. Joining Armani, Chitose Abe of Sacai will debut her couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier as his first guest designer in the New Year. Meanwhile, Balenciaga has not yet officially confirmed a new date, but the French house has likely postponed Demna Gvasalia’s couture debut until 2021.
The FHCM has also announced that the men’s spring 2021 collections would evolve into a video-only format this season and will be held from July 9-13th. The digital week schedule will run like a live fashion week with organized time slots, allowing for back-to-back streams on one central platform. “Digital is clearly part of the shape of fashion to come and we will take it as an opportunity for innovation to complement tradition,” Ralph Toledano, the president of the FHCM, told Vogue. “This being said, [in the] last weeks behind our screens, we all felt that a dimension was missing: the sensorial one. This has tremendously reinforced our position that nothing will ever replace the unity of time and place. Shows are a major component of the fashion industry, and this will remain…. Physical events will always have our preference, but as long as there is uncertainty, there should be flexibility.”
A portrait of Anthony Vaccarello, the creative director of Saint Laurent. )Photo Credit: W Magazine)
Anthony Vaccarello, the creative director for Saint Laurent, announced the brand’s departure from this year’s preset schedules and beyond. “Conscious of the current circumstance and its waves of radical change, Saint Laurent has decided to take control of its pace and reshape its schedule,” Vaccarello, wrote in an Instagram post published in April. “Now more than ever, the brand will lead its own rhythm.”
Meanwhile, German-based streetwear blog, media brand and production agency Highsnobiety hosted a digital fashion event known as “Not in Paris,” which brought together luxury, streetwear, art, music, architecture and even fine wine, under one digital roof. The online exhibition project —which debuted on June 24 and will run through July 2nd — is a direct response to the Highsnobiety audience’s continued zest for fashion storytelling.
“Not In Paris” presented by Highsnobiety. (Photo Credit: Highsnobiety)
“So many of the events we write about have been canceled, so we’ve had to think of ourselves as cultural producers in our own right,” said Thom Bettridge, the publication’s editor in chief, in an interview with WWD. “We basically thought, let’s set our own calendar and become this project-based media brand. If there isn’t anything going on in the world, let’s just make it happen.’”
According to an article published in WWD, Highsnobiety is bringing together everyone from Berlin-based company GmbH, which is shooting a film in Berlin exclusively for the online event, to up-and-coming stars like Wales Bonner and Marine Serre, as well as luxury megabrands including Bottega Veneta, Dior, Fendi and Hermès. The latter let the Highsnobiety team loose into its archives to narrate the history of its famous silk scarf.
MILAN’S NEW SCHEDULE
Italy’s Camera della Moda team also announced a cyber-focused men’s and women’s fashion show format which will take place from July 14–17th. The four day event will be known as Milano Fashion Week Digital and consist of panel discussions on social media to virtual showroom appointments, giving designers a chance to showcase their latest collections in a new and innovative way. “Everybody can decide their own message. The advantage is that in a digital world, you are completely free. You find your way of expression. We said to everybody, you have from one minute to 15 minutes, and you decide what you want to show,’” Carlo Capasa, the president of the Camera della Moda, told Vogue.
Ermenegildo Zegna will stage an innovative-slash-intimate hybrid event that will feature the brand’s spring 2021 collection and will also celebrate the label’s 110th anniversary.
A portrait of Alessandro Michele, the creative director for Gucci. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Gucci is confirmed to premiere its men’s and women’s resort 2021 collection in the form of a digital fashion show on the final day of Milano Digital fashion Week. This will be Gucci’s last pre-collection; on May 25th, Creative Director Alessandro Michele announced that the house will only hold two coed shows a year (one in the spring and one in the fall) instead of the five seasonal runway spectacles a year. “I’m passionate about fashion shows, but maybe we can be open to seeing them in a different way,” Michele said.
SEPTEMBER SHOWS
September’s Spring 2021 NY Fashion Week also has plenty of shakeups. Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss is staging a full-fledged drive-in fashion experience tour to showcase his new film American, Also. Jean-Raymond is slowing down the speed of how much he produces and is focusing on improving the quality of what he produces. This may be a popular mindset for many designers moving forward – quality over quantity.
A portrait of Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss. (Photo Credit: Hyperbeast)
Jean-Raymond is not the only New York–based designer planning something big in September. While many designers had to cancel their resort seasons due to factory closures and shelter-in-place orders, some labels, such as Proenza Schouler and Collina Strada, have refocused their efforts on New York Fashion Week, a strategy that is gaining momentum in Milan and Paris too.
A portrait of Virgil Abloh, the creative director for Off-White. (Photo Credit: High Museum of Art)
While the majority of designers are set on staging something in September, there are a few who are altering the fashion calendar to fit their needs. Virgil Abloh is holding out until 2021 to present his own women’s and men’s spring collections for his label Off-White. Abloh’s decision to wait until January means Off-White is officially experimenting with the see-now-buy-now calendar.
A portrait of Alexander Wang. (Photo Credit: W Magazine)
For the past few years Alexander Wang has been presenting two seasonless collections a year, one in June and one in December, that were in sync with the fashion calendar’s pre-collections. However, Wang opted out of showing last December and instead planned a bigger event for 2020 to celebrate his labels 15 year anniversary.
Michael Kors on the runway. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Michael Kors announced he would be stepping back from New York Fashion Week for the Spring 2021 season due to unsold inventory and Fall 2020 production delays due to Covid-19. Instead, the designer will present his Michael Kors Collection line sometime between mid-October and mid-November. “I have for a long time thought that the fashion calendar needs to change. It’s exciting for me to see the open dialogue within the fashion community about the calendar — from Giorgio Armani to Dries Van Noten to Gucci to YSL to major retailers around the globe — about ways in which we can slow down the process and improve the way we work,” he said in a statement. “We’ve all had time to reflect and analyze things, and I think many agree that it’s time for a new approach for a new era.”
PARIS WILL GO LIVE IN SEPTEMBER
The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode announced on June 24th that the spring 2021 ready-to-wear shows will resume in Paris from September 28 through October 6. Although few details were shared, the FHCM announced that they “will comply [with] the recommendations of public authorities.” Designers will have to limit their guest lists and venue choices, perhaps shows will occur in outdoor spaces, only time will tell how the future of runway shows will takes shape.
So the question remains, will the glamour of fashion shows ever return to its glorious heyday?
Erdem Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
In the world of fashion, pre-fall is many things.
It’s the longest-running season, opening to buyers and press in November and wrapping up on the heels of spring couture in January. Generally, pre-fall collections offer more commercial looks than the main runway seasons, giving retailers the opportunity to present new merchandise to their customers between the fall and spring collections. It has also become the most important sales season with merchandise sitting on the sales floor for up to six months. But in today’s world, it is also becoming increasingly difficult to define the season, as designers show various interpretations of what exactly “pre-fall” means.
Tory Burch Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
The name (pre-fall) alludes to autumn, but the deliveries hit stores in the beginning of summer. Designers present everything from fur coats to cotton eyelet dresses and everything in between. So the terminology is confusing to everyone – designers, retailers, and consumers – so shouldn’t the season be looked at as a transitional one? Shouldn’t it be a season that offers a variety of weights and styles to satisfy both a customer looking for a summer outfit in July that they can transition into fall, as well as someone buying a coat or knit that they can wear through the colder months?
In additional to addressing transitional weather, pre-fall can also be a prelude to the next runway collection; an opportunity to test what works and doesn’t work with clients. For many designers, pre-fall can help lay-out the groundwork for many of the shapes and ideas that appear in the following season.
On an ethical note, there are just too many clothes out there; designers are producing too much instead of considering the outcome. So many designers are churning out ‘bestsellers’ and collections that have no point or value to the system; stores are buying them to keep up with the never-ending seasonal trends. It leads to the same clothes in all the stores with less than stellar sales.
So while many in the industry ponder on what the season means to them and how the pre-fall model varies for every designer, here are some of the highlights from the Pre-Fall 2018 season so far:
YARN IT ALL
Miles beyond the plain –Jane sweater, a wonderful tactile world of cozy knits await from chic sweater dresses to feminine sweaters.
Chanel Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.Com)
Pringle of Scotland Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
Prabal Gurung Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
Victoria Beckham Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
PRINTS CHARMING
Designers are making a case for head to toe prints this season as patterns are mixed in fun and playful ways.
Gucci Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
Altuzarra Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
Fendi Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
Versace Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
SHIRT CIRCUIT
In a nod to the classics, the white button down shirt gets a fresh make-over this season.
Milly Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
Brock Collection Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
Rag & Bone Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
A.L.C. Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
TOTALLY EIGHTIES
Designers dug deep into the archives and pulled out bright colors and body-conscious silhouettes.
Jonathan Simkhai Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
Balmain Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
Naeem Khan Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
Koché Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.Com)
BEASTIE GIRLS
Things got plenty hairy this season in the form of oh-so-cozy yet beastly furs (in both real and faux).
Givenchy Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
Sonia Ryliel Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
Oscar de la Renta Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.Com)
Gucci
Gucci Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
Carolina Herrera Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
SUMMER LOVIN
Then there are the designers who want to hold on to summer offering sweat little dresses to keep cool and look fresh.
La Vie Rebecca Taylor Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
See By Chloe Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
Sea Pre-Fall 2018 (Photo Courtesy of the Designer)
WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THE PRE-FALL SEASON AND HOW SHOULD YOUNG DESIGNERS APPROACH THE SEASON?
