Left To Right: Looks from Vera Wang, Dion Lee, Gucci, and Ermanno Scervino. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree. Collage Courtesy of Fashionista)
From the boudoir to the street, lingerie-inspired fashion is creating a mini-revolution, blurring the lines between intimate apparel and outerwear. Lacey lingerie looks celebrate extreme femininity while evoking the tantalizing allure of self-confidence. It takes a strong woman to pull off these looks and designers are having a blast using innerwear fabrics like laces and sheers, to create bralettes, blouses, slip dresses and trousers…all worn out not in.
A look from MSGM’s Spring 2023 Show. (Photo Credit: WWD)
THE RISE OF THE SLIPDRESS
A look from Burberry’s Spring 2023 Show. (Photo Credit: Burberry)
Slip dresses, once confined to the realm of intimate wear, have emerged as the epitome of contemporary elegance. Crafted from satins, charmeuse and sheers, these ethereal garments are adorned with lace trims and effortlessly skim the body, exuding an air of romance and femininity. Versatile in nature, slip dresses can seamlessly transition from daytime chic to evening allure with the addition of accessories and layers.
YOU’RE SO TRANSPARENT
A look from Miu Miu’s Spring 2023 Show. (Photo Credit: WWD)
Sheer fabrics take center stage in the lingerie-inspired fashion trend of 2023, enticing fashion enthusiasts with their sheer audacity. Gossamer chiffon, delicate tulle, and diaphanous organza, create an alluring veil that leaves just enough to the imagination. From blouses with sheer sleeves to skirts with peek-a-boo panels, these transparent elements add a touch of mystique to any ensemble. Why not dare to bare?
BRALETTES AS TOPS
A look from Christopher Kane’s Spring 2023 Show. (Photo Credit: WWD)
Once hidden beneath layers of clothing, bralettes have broken free from their intimate confines and are taking their rightful place as statement tops. These delicate, lace-adorned wonders now stand proudly on their own, lending a touch of sensuality to any outfit. Paired with high-waisted bottoms or layered under blazers, these bralettes exude confidence, empowering the wearer to embrace their body and celebrate their individuality. Unleash your inner vixen and make a bold statement with a bralette as a top.
SENSUOUS TEXTILES
A look from Versace’s Spring 2023 Show. (Photo Credit: WWD)
In any lingerie-inspired fashion trend, you don’t have to look far to see tulle! This fabric always plays a pivotal role in creating an ambiance of sensuality. Embrace a touch of opulence as you envelop yourself in tulle and feel the luxurious caress of silk, satin, chiffon and lace. Let your senses revel in the sheer pleasure of delicate fabrics that speak to your inner goddess.
CORSET REVIVAL
A look from Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood’s Spring 2023 Show. (Photo Credit: WWD)
In a nod to history, corsets have resurfaced as a symbol of empowerment and self-expression. A modern interpretation of the corset combines the classic hourglass silhouette with contemporary aesthetics. These structured pieces, often adorned with delicate lace and intricate details, sculpt the body while allowing freedom of movement. Corset-inspired tops and dresses redefine femininity, celebrating the beauty of every curve and reminding us that fashion can be both captivating and comfortable.
CELEBRITIES EMBRACING THE LINGERIE-INSPIRED TREND
Kate Moss and Lila Moss embrace the innerwear as outerwear trend. (Photo Credit: Popsugar)
Gigi Hadid rocks the innerwear as outerwear trend. (Photo Credit: The Kit)
Kerry Washington goes full-on innerwear as outerwear in this look. (Photo Credit: The Kit)
Margot Robbie (Barbie) wear a new twist on the corset dress. (Photo Credit: Glamour)
Yara Shahidi wears a corset/shorts/skirt look. (Photo Credit: The Kit)
Kendall Jenner- A mish mash -is it a tank, a bustier/romper and a thong? (Photo Credit: Getty Images)
Emily Ratajakowski – gotta love the mesh opera gloves, the bustier, and the over-the-top pearl and chain necklace and bracelet look. (Photo Credit: Harper’s Bazaar)
A corset-ish look from Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring 2023 Show. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree)
ARE YOU READY TO CREATE YOUR OWN LINGERIE-INSPIRED LOOKS?
To create these and other innerwear as outerwear looks, you’ll need to know your way around cutting, sewing and finishing sheers and laces, and how to drape and sew corsets and bras. What better place than University of Fashion to learn it. We’ll teach you the correct sheer seam and hem finishes, the proper way to sew lace, the tools and supplies used in the intimate apparel market, how to drape bias charmeuse and the correct needles, threads, pins and stitch lengths for these delicate materials. Check out our video lessons below and get smarter.
So tell us, will you be making you own innerwear as outwear collection?
Looks from Nensi Dojaka’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Acielle StyleDuMonde)
It’s a wrap. London Fashion Week had one of its strongest seasons in years. In pure British style, the 5-day world-wind (Feb 17 – 21) combined a funeral, an awards show, the ‘coming out’ of Kate and William, designer debuts and some really great fashion shows. Held twice a year, London Fashion Week (LFW) is one of the most prestigious events in the fashion industry, showcasing the latest creations of some of the world’s most talented designers. LFW has been a major part of the global fashion calendar for over three decades and this year it became a British lollapalooza!
But first some history: London Fashion Week was first established in 1984, organized by the British Fashion Council (BFC) as a response to the dominance of Paris and Milan in the fashion world. The event was initially held in a West London car park, and featured just a handful of British designers, such as Jasper Conran and Betty Jackson. Over the years, London Fashion Week grew in popularity and stature, attracting a wider range of designers and international attention. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, it became a platform for emerging talent, with designers like Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney making their debuts. In 2009, London Fashion Week was merged with the London Fashion Weekender, a consumer-focused event that allowed members of the public to see fashion shows and buy clothes directly from designers. This move aimed to make fashion more accessible and inclusive to a wider audience.
In recent years, London Fashion Week has continued to evolve and innovate. It has embraced new technologies, such as live-streaming and social media, to reach a global audience (which was extremely useful during COVID-19 lockdowns). It has also become a major platform for sustainable and ethical fashion, with many designers using environmentally-friendly materials and production processes.
Looks from Erdem’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Acielle StyleDuMonde)
LFW now attracts thousands of visitors from around the world, including industry professionals, journalists, celebrities, and fashion enthusiasts. It remains an important event in the global fashion calendar, showcasing the creativity and diversity of British fashion.
A FUNERAL
Left To Right: Kate Moss, Helen Bonham Carter, Victoria Beckham, and Will Young all attended the late Vivienne Westwood’s memorial service. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)London Fashion Week kicked off in a somber mood as prominent guests in the fashion world gathered to pay their final respects at the funeral of the late Dame Vivienne Westwood which took place on Thursday 16 February at Southwark Cathedral in London. The funeral was a star-studded event where actress Helena Bonham Carter delivered the eulogy and Chrissie Hynde performed. The Cathedral was packed with Westwood’s family and friends as well as plenty of fashion industry guests included Marc Jacobs, Kate Moss, Tracey Emin, Victoria Beckham, Paul Smith, Zandra Rhodes, Bella Freud, Stephen Jones, Matty Bovan, and Ellen von Unwerth. Many guests paid tribute to the late Westwood as they followed one of Westwood’s many mottos, “When in doubt, dress up!” And dressed up they were, as they streamed into the Gothic cathedral in their finery to pay their final respects to the pioneering designer and activist, who died Dec. 29 at age 81.
AN AWARDS SHOW & A ROYAL PDA MOMENT
Kate Middleton’s cheeky gesture to Prince William as they walk the BAFTAs red carpet. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)
The Prince and Princess of Wales had a rare PDA Moment (public display of affection) at the BAFTAs (British Academy of Film & Television Award), which took place on Sunday, February 19th. The royals made sure to hold hands while walking down the red carpet and at one point the Princess playfully tapped William’s lower back as the paparazzi went wild. Princess Kate, who is a master at high-low dressing, looked stunning in a reworked Grecian Alexander McQueen gown (which she first debuted at the 2019 BAFTAs), paired with black gloves, and a pair of Zara earrings.
DESIGNER DEBUTS & HIGH BROW FASHION SHOWS
A look from Burberry’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Daniel Lee debuted his Burberry collection by sailing into uncharted territory with more terrific color (case in point, cobalt blue) and faux fur than the heritage brand has seen in its 167-year history. Lee’s new vision for the iconic British house came laced with an appropriately cheeky duck motif. “The ducks I just found very British,” he explained backstage after the show to Vogue Magazine. “It made me think of the outdoors, and Burberry is an outdoors brand. It reminded me of rain, and protection.” After all, raincoats are in the brand’s DNA.
Looks from S.S.Daley’s Fall 2022 Collection, Right, Sir Ian McKellen. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
S.S. Daley’s collection for Steven Stokey-Daley was pure theatre. For Daley’s menswear show, he enlisted British actor Sir Ian McKellen (Shakespeare, popular fantasy and science fiction), who opened the show reading a poem by Alfred, Lord Tennyson (of Ulysses and The Charge of the Light Brigade fame), a wildly unexpected surprise. AND OH SO HIGH-BROW!
A look from Simone Rocha’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Inspired by Lughnasadh, an Irish harvest festival with pagan origins, designer Simone Rocha turned her presentation into a ritual. The designer created beautiful lace gowns and crinolines that were stuffed with raffia.
A look from Dilara Findikoglu’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: GoRunway)
Turkish designer Dilara Findikoglu staged a fashion show entitled “Not a Man’s Territory,” which she stated came together after the arrest and death of Mahsa Amini in Iran late last year. The finale creation was Joan of Arc reincarnated, she told Vogue in an interview, “She’s coming back for revenge, dresses as she wants. And she has her knives.”
Looks from JW Anderson’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Acielle StyleDuMonde)
This season Jonathan Anderson was inspired by the Scottish dancer/choreographer Michael Clark. Looking through Clark’s archive, Anderson decided he needed to look through his own archives as well. The result, a collection that brings together costume details from Clark’s performances mixed with details from early JW Anderson collections. Overall, it was a cosmic dancer delight.
Looks from Christopher Kane’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Glamsquad)
Christopher Kane sent out a series of slinky jersey dresses, printed with hyperrealistic images of piglets, rats, and chicks – talk about animal magnetism.
Florence Pugh modeling a look from Harris Reed’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Launchmetrics)
Florence Pugh knows how to make an entrance. So, who better than the bona fide red carpet star herself to open Harris Reed’s theatrical Fall 2023 show? The actress wore a harlequin sequin skirt with a thigh-high slit, a black corset top and a massive halo headpiece. Pugh set the tone for the event with a speech written by Reed about the transformative power of clothes. “In a sometimes judgmental world, our costumes can change who we want to be seen as, and who we are destined to be,” she said. “I invite you to embrace the lamé and sequins of life, because all the world’s a stage.” Reed offered ten beautifully detailed looks dripping in sartorial theatrics.
So tell us, what was your favorite moment from London Fashion Week?
Erdem’s show finale felt like a page being inscribed in the annals of British fashion history. This was a tribute to the Queen. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
London Fashion Week’s Spring 2023 season was like no other. England’s longest reigning monarch passed away on Sept. 8, at Balmoral Castle, plunging the nation into 10 days of official mourning. Queen Elizabeth II was 96 years old when she passed and ruled Britain 70 years. As per the Queen’s wishes, Prince Charles became King Charles III, as he promises to walk in his mother’s footsteps.
The Final Portrait of Queen Elizabeth II. (Photo Credit: Ranald Mackechnie, Courtesy of Buckingham Palace)
Shows were scheduled to begin September 15th and end on September20th, but major brands like Burberry chose to cancel their show altogether, and some wondered if fashion week would — or should — happen at all. But of course, the shows forged on as many designers paid their respects to her Royal Majesty.
On Sunday night, Sept. 18th — the eve of the funeral of Queen Elizabeth II — the line of people waiting to pay their last respects to the late monarch stretched so far through the heart of the British capital that it could be seen from space, according to The New York Times. The following morning, September 19, the queen’s state funeral took place at Westminster Abbey; then a legion of military officers towed her casket through the streets of London in a processional to Windsor Castle. Naturally, it was all very touching — from the little tantrums to the unbelievable crowds to the mournful bongs of Big Ben that backdropped the funeral march. Queen Elizabeth II is now at her final resting place which is marked with a new ledger stone in the King George VI Memorial chapel, Buckingham Palace has said. The stone slab bears the name of the late Queen, her husband Prince Philip, and her parents, with the two generations separated by a metal garter star.
While Britain is also a country with a national identity forged in times of heartache and trouble — of which there recently has been plenty for designers: the continuing fallout from Brexit, the pandemic, and the likelihood of recession. Out of respect for the Queen, all of the parties this season had been canceled, but many young designers rallied for their shows to go on. And thankfully they did, because London Fashion Week always serves up such inspirational fashion moments.
A look from JW Anderson’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Ayesha Kazim for The New York Times)
“It has been a challenging two years,” Harris Reed said in an interview with The New York Times. “Speaking with my fellow young designers, most of whom have put their entire brand budgets into shows to bring in sales and brand awareness, it is so important, now more than ever, to support the small brands in London.”
A look from Harris Reed’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
London has a reputation for embracing and nurturing young fashion talent, and this season there were a number of breakthrough emerging designers, such as Chopova Lowena and Karoline Vitto; but the fashion old guard also reminded us of why the capital’s fashion reputation also rests on the rich depth of its storytelling. And while London Fashion Week was filled with emotion, fashion designers proudly honored their Queen.
Looks from SimoneRocha’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Acielle)
A look from Chopova Lowena’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
Here are a few of the biggest trends that came out of London Fashion Week:
PAYING TRIBUTE TO THE QUEEN (ELIZABETH NOT ALEXANDER)
A number of British designers paid tribute to Queen Elizabeth II in their collections. Case in point, designer JW Anderson, whose finale was a black T-shirt with the words “Her Majesty The Queen 1926-2022 Thank you” on the front.
“It felt important to keep going, because this is a time when London needs to stick together, and right now some of this city’s young designers are at risk of losing their businesses,” JW Anderson said to New York Times reporters backstage, as revelers outside drank the night away. “That is an extremely British attitude.”
Here are a few other designers who honored the Queen this season.
JW Anderson, who fought to keep London Fashion Week alive in the midst of unprecedented “royal mourning,” ended his London Fashion Week show with six lovely words. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
A silent catwalk with the Union Jack wrapped tight around the heart at Dilara Findikoglu’s Spring Show. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)Traditional lace collars and black netted crowns took the spotlight at Richard Quinn, whose 2018 fashion show was attended by Queen Elizabeth II herself. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
Tiny crochet corgi dolls became a key accessory at RuiRui’s show. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)
The speakers went silent at the show for Halpern’s opening look, which paid homage to the 1957 ballgown the Queen wore to greet French president Charles de Gaulle. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Great Britain, ultra tiny dress. The Union Jack rises at Poster Girl’s Spring Show. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)
Bora Aksu’s show opened with a military drum salute before turning into a parade of looks inspired partly by the Queen’s military service in World War II. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
DOT ON
We will all be seeing spots this season as designers offered the playful graphic print on everything from dramatic suits to frothy frocks.
A look from Richard Quinn’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Molly Goddard’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Harris Reed’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Bora Aksu’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Halpern’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
CUT-IT-OUT
The sexy cut-out trend is going strong for spring especially in sultry gowns that will surly get you noticed at your next bash.
A look from Nensi Dojaka’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Halpern’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Christopher Kane’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from JW Anderson’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from David Koma’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A-ROUND-WE-GO
Bubble shapes are all the rage this spring 2023 season. From futuristic spear-shaped hemlines to rounded peplum shapes, these dramatic objects add a playful flare to your wardrobe.
A look from Richard Quinn’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from JW Anderson’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Harris Reed’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Dilara Findikoglu’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Christopher Kane’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
YOUR NOT SO BASIC TEE
Everyone’s favorite basic gets a quirky make-over this spring. And what timing! Just as UoF is about to launch an entire series on drafting cut & sew T-shirts and 4-way stretch knits!
A look from Christopher Kane’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Dilara Findikoglu’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Molly Goddard’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from JW Anderson’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
TRAINING DAY
Add some drama to your next affair with floor-sweeping trains. Whether you opt for the minimal slip dress version or a maximalist feathered skirt, these dramatic hemlines are oh so sexy.
A look from Harris Reed’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Halpern’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Erdem’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Christopher Kane’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from David Koma’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
FEELING FROU
Frothy, romantic ruffles were all over the runways during London Fashion Week.
A look from Molly Goddard’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Halpern’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Erdem’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Bora Aksu’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Simone Rocha’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
So tell us, what is your favorite spring 2023 trend so far?
Looks from Richard Quinn’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Just as Covid cases in some parts of the world are declining and restrictions are loosening, Russian President Vladimir Putin invaded Ukraine. The world watched in horror, as his deadly attack began in the early morning hours of February 24th. NATO has issued sanctions on Russia, but will they be enough to stop this escalating war? The world hopes so. Because if the last few years have taught humanity anything, it’s that in the grand scheme of things, we are nothing without health and peace.
As we try and navigate these troubling times, we can look to fashion as an escape from reality and to transform us into a world of fantasy. Last week UoF covered New York Fashion Week and this time we’ve crossed the pond to the London and Milan shows. Though our eyes may be focused on fashion…our hearts are definitely with the Ukrainian people.
SWINGING LONDON
Looks from Erdem’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
London Fashion week was a jam packed 5-day event that took place from Friday, February 18th to Tuesday, February 22nd. As we have come to accept, the fall 2022 season was a hybrid of physical shows as well as digital presentations, but thanks to England’s ease on Covid restrictions, the buzz around fashion week was the return of the IRL fashion show and events throughout the city. There were 86 physical womenswear and menswear shows and 61 digital presentations, which ranged from the well-established labels such as Vivienne Westwood, to emerging brands such as the breakout star of the week Nensi Dojaka.
Looks from Nensi Dojaka’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Here are a few of the hottest trends that emerged from London Fashion Week:
SHEER FACTOR
London based designers had nothing to hide this fall 2022 season as they played up the transparency theme – from the utterly see-through to the subtly sheer.
A look from Supriya Lele’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Simone Rocha’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Maximilian’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Temperley London’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Nensi Dojaka’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Christopher Kane’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
VELVET UNDERGROUND
Opulence filled the fall 2022 runways this season with luscious velvets in simple cocktail dresses, dramatic coats, and dramatic gowns.
A look from Simone Rocha’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Christopher Kane’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Edward Crutchley’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Paul & Joe’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree)
A look from 16Arlington’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Temperley London’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
THE EIGHTIES SHOW
This season, designers dug deep into the archives and pulled out bright colors and body-conscious silhouettes. Even the ‘pouf’, circa 80s Christian Lacroix, made a comeback!
A look from Emilia Wickstead’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from David Koma’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Richard Quinn’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Molly Goddard’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Simone Rocha’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Huishan Zhang’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
MANY SPLENDORED STRINGS
The collections were awash in a myriad of fabulous fringe motifs, perfect for the latter-day flapper ready to dance the night away.
A look from Halpern’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
A look from Christopher Kane’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Conner Ives’ Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Erdem’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Roksanda’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
Looks from Ozwald Boateng’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
IN FULL PLUME
Birds of a feather flock together, but if you want to break out as the next street style star, then bring on the feathers. The fall 2022 runways in London were filled with feathery looks that can be worn from day to night.
A look from Huishan Zhang’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from 16Arlington’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Paul & Joe’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree)
A look from Poster Girl’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree)
A look from Aadnevik’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree)
A look from Richard Quinn’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
CIAO MILANO
A backstage look from Moschino’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Although London lifted many of its Covid restrictions, Italy still has many restrictions in place, and will remain so until at least March 31. Only those who are fully vaccinated will be able to attend Milan Fashion Week, which began on Tuesday, February 22nd and ends Monday, February 28th.
The good news, Milan had a jam-packed schedule with plenty of physical runway shows and events. There were also plenty of fun events throughout the week such as Gucci’s all-day celebration of its new Gucci Vault, The World of Vogue Talents and the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards, both celebrated emerging designers and those who have taken extra steps to curb their impact on the planet.
So while Milan Fashion Week is still going strong, here are some of the emerging trends from the first half of the week:
BOUDOIR FLAIRE
Innerwear as outerwear continues to intrigue designers in Milan who showed a variety of lingerie inspired looks on the runway.
A look from Prada’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Fendi’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Sportmax’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from No. 21’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Blumarine’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Gucci’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
VISUAL EFFECTS
Fall’s graphic content turned towards eye-popping geometrics with a hint of op art.
A look from Max Mara’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Emporio Armani’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Missoni’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Prada’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
CAPE CRUSADERS
Remarkable outerwear stole the show during Milan Fashion Week, but the true breakout style were all the terrific capes that ran the gamut from dainty evening versions to cozy yet chic toppers.
A look from Gucci’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Moschino’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Raf Simons’ Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Tod’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Roberto Cavalli’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Alberta Ferretti’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
YARN IT ALL
Miles beyond your basic sweater, a wonderful tactile world of dresses, cardigans and coats await. Perfect for braving the cold.
A look from Blumarine’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Etro’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Tod’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Max Mara’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Alberta Ferretti’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
SHORT STORIES
No one does seductive as well as the Italians and for fall, designers showed barely there mini dresses and skirts all over the runway.
A look from Dundas’ Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Alberta Ferretti’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Etro’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Emporio Armani’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Missoni’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from No. 21’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
POINT OF HUE
Designers tempered their dark, wintery palette with a celebration of pastel colors, making the fall 2022 season a joyful rhapsody of hue.
A look from Fendi’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Sunnei’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from MM6 Maison Margiela’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Diesel’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Del Core’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
A look from Blumarine’s Fall 2022 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway
So tell us, what are your favorite runway trends so far for the fall 2022 season?
Bora Aksu’s Spring 2021 Presentation. (Photo: Courtesy of Bora Aksu)
ON WITH THE SHOW!
While New York showed only a handful of live shows and presentations due to Covid concerns, at London and Milan fashion week it was almost business as usual. London designers staged over 30 live shows, presentations, fashion events or personal appointments, while Milan blended 28 physical shows with 24 digital ones, making Milan, thus far, the city with the most in real life showings. As American buyers, the fashion press (and the rest of us) virtually crossed the pond for London and Milan fashion week, we all got to watch some pretty amazing spring 2021 fashion in the privacy of our home, sitting on our pandemic-safe couch. Gotta love technology!
LONDON’S CALLING
A look from Gareth Pugh’s Spring 2021 Collection. (Photo: Courtesy of Gareth Pugh)
Stating that all live events would adhere to social distancing and hygiene g regulations, the British Fashion Council kicked off LFW on September 17th and wrapped up on September 22. Burberry opened the season with a live-streamed outdoor show to rave reviews. Throughout the week 80 designers took part in London Fashion Week – 30 IRL (in real life) and 50 digitally.
The week hosted a mix of womenswear and menswear designers, but what really stood out was that the season will no longer be known as Spring 2021, but rather “London Fashion Week September 2020,” in a move towards a more season-less approach.
Here are the highlights:
BURBERRY
Riccardo Tisci opened London Fashion Week with a bang. The influential designer live-streamed his Burberry show in a hauntingly beautiful forest. His theme: “a love story between a mermaid and a shark.” The dark theme was the perfect parable as to how we’ve all felt the past seven months locked in quarantine and working from home. Tisci’s under-the-sea analogy was anything but kitsch. The collection was rather chic and sophisticated with beautiful shades of blues; “Blue is the new beige,” Tisci teased in an interview with Vogue Runway, name-checking Burberry’s signature color.
Being in quarantine with his 92 year-old mother and relatives in his childhood home near Lake Cuomo was a breath of fresh air for the designer and gave him a new sense of appreciation for life. According to his Vogue interview, the rootsy surroundings of his quarantine made him reconnect with his childhood and the innocent mindset with which he pursued those dreams. “You open the drawer of your past and see how far you’ve gone as a person, how much you’ve done for yourself, and for others. Your dreams have come true,” he reflected.
His collection for Burberry was filled with sea-centric references – from illustrations to embellishments – that were innocent and raw. Tisci’s shark motif has been a signature of the designer from the start of his career. As for his mermaids, Tisci worked with peplum shapes, glistening dresses, and spliced trench coats.
Tisci perfectly infused Burberry’s classic aesthetic with his signature street-style. Sometimes, going back to your roots is what a designer needs to find their footing again, as his mother would say, Bravo Riccardo!
DURO OLOWU
A look from Duro Olowu’s presentation. (Photo Credit: Luis Monteiro for Duro Olowu)
There is no doubt about it, 2020 will forever be known as the year of the sweatsuit. But as Duro Olowu puts it quite simply in an interview with Vogue Runway, “Ease doesn’t have to mean track pants.”
Olowu presented his collection to a handful of editors and buyers in his London boutique. The joyful collection was filled with bold colors and striking prints that were inspired by Emma Amos, an African American painter who died in May of this year. Olowu infused bold hand-painted striped prints that were chic and sophisticated, case in point, the elongated tunic over wide leg pants, gave off an elegant loungewear vibe.
The designer is also experimenting with new shapes, focusing on sarong-like midi-length silhouettes that feel fresh and new. His line-up was filled with 1950s lean looks that were refined yet youthful. These clothes are a promise to brighter days ahead and they definitely will put a smile on your face.
MOLLY GODDARD
A look from Molly Goddard’s Spring 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Ben Broomfield for Molly Goddard)
Molly Goddard held intimate appointments in her studio as she presented her eclectic spring collection filled with bright, frothy, tulle confections. Mannequins were scattered throughout the space, each wearing one on Goddard’s jubilant looks. The collection was filled with ruffled, voluminous skirts and dresses, all in vibrant colors, as well as checkerboard neon sweaters, an A-line anorak dress and even floral printed denim pants.
Also, for the first time, Goddard decided to offer many of her unique dresses in white, which would make the perfect wedding dress for the cool young bride who wants an anything but traditional dress.
SIMONE ROCHA
A look from Simone Rocha’s spring 2021 collection. (Photo: Courtesy of Simone Rocha)
With all the COVID-19 U.K. regulations set in place, Simone Rocha held an intimate presentation at the Hauser & Wirth gallery. The cavernous white walls were the perfect backdrop for Rocha’s beautifully, intricate looks to come to life. In an interview with Vogue Runway, Rocha stated “I’m not going to lie: I’ll be the first to say I love runway shows, now that the pace of shows has been stripped away, I wanted to find a space to represent that. It’s important to me to find a way to physically share the collection, just for the silhouette, texture, and weight of it. Clothes are made of cloth, and emotions, and they come to life on a body.”
Rocha’s collection was filled with voluminous, rounded shapes in gilded brocades, rich cotton embroideries, delicate pearl embroideries, and intricate scalloped edge cottons. Close up, the layers held little messages: on tulle veiling, patterns of castles; in the broderie anglaise, SR monograms. “Castles in faraway places,” Rocha laughed. “I think that’s the escapism we’re all craving.”
ERDEM
Just like Riccardo Tisci for Burberry, Erdem Moralioglu was inspired by fantasy for his spring 2021 collection and also opted to hold an audience-less runway show in the English forest. Moralioglu spent his quarantine time reading. His collection was inspired by a Susan Sontag novel, The Volcano Lover, Sontag’s portrait of the 18th-century beauty Emma Hamilton who married a volcanologist obsessed with Grecian vases and had a passionate love affair with Lord Nelson.
Moralioglu, like his inspiration, looked to beauty during this fearful time. The designer featured regal 18th century-inspired floral jacquard dresses with puff-sleeves juxtaposed against cozy cardigans, military-inspired outerwear and an embroidered admiral jacket.
In an interview with Vogue Runway, Moralioglu stated, “I get asked the same question: Are women’s tastes and wants changing now, given the situation? On the contrary, we have a customer who’s still buying special pieces. It’s the want for something you can wear in five and 10 years. As I enter my 15th year doing this, the most thrilling thing is seeing someone wearing your work from 10 years ago. I’ve always been obsessed with permanence. When it feels like the end of the world, doesn’t someone need a pink moiré hand-embroidered gown?”
CHRISTOPHER KANE
An abstract painterly look from Christopher Kane. (Photo: Courtesy of Chrisopher Kane)
If this pandemic has taught us anything (other than the importance of wearing a mask, frequent hand-washing and social distancing) it’s a time for reflection, a reminder not to put off things that bring you joy. Christopher Kane did just that in his spring 2021 collection. The designer revisited his love of painting using multicolored glitter that he experimented with as a kid. Kane’s flagship store was turned into an exhibition space for his collection presentation, with easels and canvases featuring his paintings that he’d created during lockdown.
As for the clothes, which were displayed on mannequins, Kane recreated his artwork onto coats, dresses, and tops. Key looks included a brushstroke print long sleeve midi dress, a paint dot splatter shirt, and a brush-stroke striped sweater. With this charming collection one thing is clear, Kane had a lot of fun creating these pieces.
MILANO MODA
Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring 2021 patchwork show was inspired by Sicily. (Photo Credit: Gorunway.com)
Leave it to the Italians to add a new word to fashion’s lexicon. Milan’s Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana billed the city’s spring 2021 shows as a “phygital fashion week.” Phygital fashion week is a portmanteau, a blend of physical, in person shows, and a digital show, a format that has become essential during COVID. Milan’s phygital fashion week took place from September 22 – 28th.
Everyone in the fashion community is asking themselves…is this hybrid model of phygital shows and presentations the future of fashion week? Only time will tell.
PRADA
Prada was hands-down the most anticipated show of the season and rightfully so, since this was the debut of the Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons collaboration. The partnership was announced last February, pre-pandemic lockdown, and it was probably the most celebrated fashion news of 2020. The designers staged a digital runway show that was viewed on Prada.com and then opened up to a conversation with Prada and Simons answering questions that were submitted online. It was a genius move, giving Prada consumers the chance to listen to their “backstage-conversation.”
As for the clothes, a new Prada ‘uniform’ was introduced. You may remember that in the ‘90s Prada’s minimalistic uniform looks launched Miuccia Prada into fashion stardom. According to Miuccia and Simmons, the new Prada is all about paring back and the streamlining of excesses to get at what’s essential. The collection’s 40 looks were composed of long, narrow trousers; a sleeveless, tunic-length tee with the famous triangle logo; statement making outerwear with clutched coats; full skirts; holey (not the religious kind) knits; all worn with pointy-toed slingback kitten heels in a contrasting color. “How Miuccia dresses is very often a kind of uniform one way or another, and that was direct inspiration for me for the show,” Simons said in the interview.
The collection was filled with past references that became signatures for both designers. Case in point, Prada’s spring 1996 show of “ugly prints” reemerged on hoodies and matching full skirts, as well words and graphic silk-screened motifs on pastel shift dresses, a representation of Simmons’ personal work.
Miuccia and Simons lived up to the fashion world’s anticipation and thus far was the show of the season.
FENDI
Fendi opened Milan Fashion Week with the first in-person, live, runway show, featuring both their men’s and women’s collections. And the fashion crowd couldn’t be happier. The show opened with photographic prints taken by Silvia Venturini Fendi from her bedroom window during lockdown. These soft graphic prints were found on everything from transparent shirt dresses, to tailored blazers and men’s suits.
As Italy was the first of the European cities to suffer from Covid 19, spending several months in lock-down mode, Fendi believes this will forever change the way we dress, and answered the call with sophisticated alternatives for WFH (work-from-home) looks. The collection had plenty of chic loungewear and pajama fashion, as well as floaty wood-printed caftans. Fendi closed the show with bedding-inspired looks that ranged from cozy satin quilted outerwear to pale lace embroidered linen tops and skirts. “This reminded me of Karl [Lagerfeld],” said Fendi pre-show in an interview with Vogue Runaway: “He had a love for bed linen, he had a big collection.”
This collection marked the final transition of Silvia’s decades long collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld, and her latest collaboration with newly appointed creative director Kim Jones. This announcement will surely make Fendi the most anticipated show for the Fall 2022.
ETRO
Etro’s Spring 2021 Show. (Photo Credit: Gorunway.com)
The COVID-19 pandemic has been a difficult and terrifying time for us all, but if there is any silver lining to this nightmare, it is that the lockdowns have brought many families back together. This is the case for Veronica Etro, as she spent her time during lockdown at home with her mom as they listened to old Neapolitan songs, “we were bewitched by the serenity, the timelessness, and the elegance” Veronica Etro stated during her pre-show press conference. The music made her reminisce about her “2019 trip to Ischia, Capri, Naples, and Positano, and—maybe because we were so patriotic during that period—I thought, okay, let’s make the collection all about Italy.”
Veronica dug deep into her family’s print archives and turned out a youthful and vibrant collection filled with effortless vacation looks that ranged from a sexy scarf print bikini worn under a glamorous open front maxi skirt, to charming marinière knits. There were plenty of effortlessly chic printed dresses; flirty nautical themed bra tops and shorts; as well as youthful paisley shorts worn with menswear inspired shirts.
This charming collection was the perfect beach escape for next summer and beyond.
ALBERTA FERRETTI
A look from Alberta Ferretti’s Spring 2021 Show. (Photo Credit: Corunway.com)
Alberta Ferretti also opted for a live, in-person show this season, as she held her runway extravaganza in the open air in one of the courtyards of Milan’s Castello Sforzesco, as guests enjoyed the sunshine. The perfect backdrop to Ferretti’s signature romantic aesthetic.
The collection was a stark contrast to the state of the world. In a pre-interview with Vogue Runway, Ferretti stated, “In this difficult situation, so harsh and unforgiving in many ways, my gut instinct was to embrace kindness and a certain seductive softness. I believe that it stems from self-confidence and from the acceptance of the natural power of femininity.”
Ferretti’s approach to the season was practical, as she offered her women a wardrobe that fits all of their needs. The designer showed a variety of feminine dresses that ranged from ethereal, flowing, maxi dresses to flirty macramé lace mini dresses – all with a bohemian yet sophisticated hand. The collection also featured plenty of every-day pieces, such as pastel denim pants, high-waisted fitted trousers paired with bralettes, embroidered tops and cropped blouses. Overall, Ferretti’s collection was a sophisticated and fresh approach to femininity.
VERSACE
Always with a flair for the dramatic, Donatella Versace literally took her viewers “under the sea” for her spring 2021 collection: the aquatic theme being a reoccurring motif for many designers this season. Versace staged a full on live-streamed show, with no audience, just her team. The runway’s backdrop…the imagined ruins of Atlantis with a water current streaming down its projected walls. The mythical backdrop was the perfect setting for Versace’s provocative ocean-themed collection.
Ever since the Versace label launched in 1978, by her beloved brother Gianni, the brand has always been known for its sex appeal and its loud and vibrant prints and colors. For spring 2021, Donatella embraced the DNA of the house and it was a joyful ode to life, featuring both menswear and womenswear looks. Versace started off with a maritime motif with tailored navy blazers and shorts. Then the collection took on a Malibu Barbie twist, with vibrant prints in pumped-up colors. Starfish print dresses that ranged from sheaths to baby-doll silhouettes; coral reef motif and ocean themes made their way onto everything, from skirts and tops to shorts and swimwear. Versace also showed moments of ingenuity with micro-pleated dresses trimmed with twirly ruffles, which resembled a graceful jellyfish swimming in the ocean.
Versace stated that her archival sea collection was also a metaphor for a new world of wonders, which translated to a diverse runway. The co-ed show was cast with a variety of ethnicities, as well as diversified sizes, embracing her message of body positivity and gender-nonconformity. Brava Donatella for such an inclusive representation of the world.
MOSCHINO
Let’s give it up to Jeremy Scott for producing the most creative show of the season. The digital masterpiece was an elaborate puppet show with marionette replicas of his favorite models walking down a runway and doll replications of his audience. It was a visual delight that eased the stress of a world gone mad. In an interview with Vogue Runway, Scott stated, “The best thing I could do for everyone who’s stressed about the election, the pandemic, social unrest, and the future was to give the gift of fantasy and take us away from all of it for a few minutes; let us enjoy this little fashion world of ours.”
Scott’s whimsical show may have come at a huge expense, but it was a much needed spectacular visual experience. As for the clothes, they were each re-proportioned to fit the dimensions of the marionettes without losing their authentic properties. The collection was an homage to haute couture and brought Scott’s masterful construction to the forefront of the collection, case in point, a cocktail dress that was sliced open, revealing another dress under it with a photograph of an inside-out embroidered dress. Other key looks included a feather trim gown with an exposed bone corseted bust, deconstructed cocktail dresses, as well as spliced outerwear.
When asked if fashion is still relevant, Scott stated “People are like, ‘Sweatpants forever!’ But I love exciting things that are one-of-a-kind and refined. We’re all desperate for that. I constantly kept getting dressed up every day even if I wasn’t seeing people. It’s part of who I am.” The London and Milan shows seemed to prove that point.
So far it looks like NYFW, LFW and MFW are all channeling happier times. Reminds us of the old 1920s song by Jack Yellen & Milton Ager, Happy Days Are Here Again, became the the theme song of Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Presidential campaign in 1932 and is still played at Democratic conventions today.
Queen Elizabeth watches Richard Quinn’s show with Anna Wintour at London Fashion Week Fall 2018 CREDIT AFP
London Fashion Week, founded by the British Fashion Council in 1983, has definitely established itself as one of the most creative and avant-garde fashion cities in the world. Known for showcasing a mixture of emerging designers and established brands – this season was no exception. Who could forget last season when Her Majesty The Queen sat front row at Richard Quinn? While that moment may be hard to top, there were plenty of exciting moments at LFW SS/2019. From Riccardo Tisci’s debut collection for Burberry to Victoria Beckham’s ten year anniversary show and everything in between. Oh, and let’s not forget that all of London’s runways are now fur free! Here are some outstanding moments and trends from the week.
A NEW ERA AT BURBERRY
Riccardo Tisci is ushering a new day at Burberry – his debut show was not only the most anticipated show of London Fashion Week, but possibly of the whole spring season in general. For the past 5 months, ever since Burberry announced Christopher Bailey’s departure and Tisci as his replacement, the fashion industry has been obsessed with how Tisci might put his mark on the brand. Well, just as Hedi Slimane changed the iconic YSL logo and the company name to Saint Laurent, Tisci began by changing the Burberry logo -it is now a “TB” monogram (the initials of founder Thomas Burberry.) And, for the first time ever, Burberry is now fur-free – thanks to Tisci.
Using the tried and true formula for revamping a heritage brand, by hiring new, young, hot talent, (Virgil Abloh and Nicolas Ghesquière/Louis Vuitton, Hedi Slimane/Dior/Saint Laurent/Celine, Raf Simons/Dior/Calvin Klein), Burberry is counting on Tisci to reinvigorate the label and give it the star-studded colt following that he successfully achieved at Givenchy. So, imagine everyone’s surprise when industry insiders took their seats at Monday evening’s show and discovered that there was not a single celebrity in sight (except for Kendall Jenner on the runway). When Samantha Conti of WWD asked Tisci why he opted for a ‘celebrity free zone,’ Tisci replied, “The [guests] are all people I know and they’re very good friends, so for this first season it was very important for me to really work with the people in the business: the fashion journalists, buyers, friends and family. Celebrities can sometimes give the wrong message and I don’t really like using them as windows.”
What a breadth of fresh air! No distractions, just beautiful and wearable fashion. Check out the full show using the link below:
Naming the collection “Kingdom,” Tisci told Vogue’s Sarah Mower, “It’s like a patchwork or a mix of the British lifestyle.” He wants to dress all generations, “The mother and the daughter, the father and the son.” It was Tisci’s vision of British culture from Punk to Establishment. Could he have been channeling Ralph Lauren a bit here?
Tisci opened his show with a Heritage Trench. This time, buttoned-up and cinched at the waist with a thick elasticized belt. He continued to send out versions of trench coats throughout the show, for both men and women. His menswear looks were polished, with perfectly tailored suits, sleek knits and terrific outerwear. For women, Tisci introduced eveningwear – minimal, simple, long black jersey dresses, with just a hint of sparkle that were oh so chic and refined. For day, Tisci showed smart, sophisticated looks: bow blouses, printed silk dresses, tailored suits and polo shirts. And of course, there were plenty of Burberry’s signature plaid. Let’s not forget, Tisci was one of the first designers to make street-style – high fashion and he didn’t disappoint. In the mix were anoraks, biker-inspired leather skirt suits, rain ponchos, and utility shirts most notably a pop culture print—echoing a Sex Pistols song—that read, “why did they kill Bambi?”
After all the hype and anticipation, Tisci delivered a smart collection that pushed the boundaries of Burberry just enough, while at the same time was commercially safe. After all, these are clothes that are meant to be worn in the real world, right?
Burberry’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Burberry’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Burberry’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Burberry’s spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.comS
VICTORIA BECKHAM’S 10 YEAR ANNIVERSARY
Victoria Beckham Tenth Anniversary T-shirt image (Photo Courtesy of Victoria Beckham)
Happy Anniversary Victoria Beckham! To celebrate her 10 years in business, Beckham decided to celebrate in her native country. To kick off the celebration, she recreated the famous T-shirt that Marc Jacobs masterminded a decade ago, featuring Beckham coming out of a shopping bag, a symbol of her journey as a fashion designer. Juergen Teller shot a brilliant ad campaign for the anniversary and limited edition tees can be found on Beckham’s website.
Beckham opened the show with non-other than 90s fashion icon Stella Tennant – wearing an effortless white pantsuit paired with a silk and lace lingerie-inspired top – the epitome of 90s cool. This look is the perfect example of why Beckham has transitioned so easily from a Spice Girl to a serious designer – her clothes are ageless, timeless, elegant, chic, and yet appeal to Millennials, Gen Zs and fashionable woman of every age.
The 90s theme rang throughout the collection but with a refined hand. There were plenty of ‘dresses-over-trouser’ looks that were polished and that had a posh edge. Beckham showed a variety of perfectly fitting slim trousers, tailored blazers, delicate lace tops and sexy knits with handkerchief hems. These were real clothes that real woman can wear. Beckham is a fashion force to be reckoned with and has definitely hit a chord with fashionable women around the globe.
Victoria Beckham’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Victoria Beckham’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
TOP TRENDS OF LONDON FASHION WEEK
VICTORIAN ERA
London is known for its over-the-top fashion and designers here like to have fun on the runway. One of the biggest trends of the week was a modern day take on Victorian-inspired looks. From Erdem’s tapestry floral dress with exaggerated puffed sleeves to Simone Rocha’s ornate collars. Here are some of our favorite interpretations of this trend.
Erdem’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Simone Rocha’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Mary Katrantzo’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
LET THERE BE NEON
LFW was a bright and colorful explosion of neon that will surely be insta-worthy hits.
Roksanda’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Emilia Wickstead’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Pringle of Scotland’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Ashish’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Jenny Packham’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Julien Macdonald’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
House of Holland’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
EARN YOUR STRIPES
Stripes are always a favorite on the runway for Spring, but this season designers infused them with a refreshingly bold new twist.
JW Anderson’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Halpern’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Temperly London’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Chalayan’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Duro Olowu’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
RUFFLED UP
Romance was in the air as flirty ruffles were found on a variety of sexy dresses.
Molly Goddard’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
David Koma’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Peter Pilotto’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Richard Quinn’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Delpozo’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
COLD SHOULDER
Off-the-shoulder numbers are still going strong as designers show plenty of options on the runway.
Osman’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Christopher Kane’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Delpozo’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Roland Mouret’s Spring 2019 show (Photo Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Clockwise from upper left hand corner: Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, and Christian Dior (All photos courtesy of Vogue.com)
Resort has always been a favorite season for retailers; after all, it’s the longest selling season – hitting the floor around November and selling at full price until May. Up until several years ago, designers thought of the season as just store-fillers, a chance to sell the basic pieces all women need in their wardrobe. Fast-forward to today, resort has exploded into an equally important season as spring/summer and fall/winter.
Resort 2018 season kicked off in early May and has wrapped up in early July. While many designers presented their collections intimately in their showrooms to press and buyers, some designers went all out and showed a full runway show in various locations around the world.
Christian Dior Show held in Santa Monica Mountains (Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection for Christian Dior was inspired by Californian nature –she held a grand show against the backdrop of the Santa Monica Mountains. This collection is far from the Hollywood glamour one expects when you think of California, but rather Chiuri looked to Georgia O’Keeffe and the Southwest for inspiration. Other designers who also looked to O’Keeffe as a reference for their collections were Chiui’s former co-designer Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino, Tory Burch, Acne Studios, and Jonathan Simkhai.
Christian Dior (Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Valentino (Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Tory Burch (Courtesy of Tory Burch)
Nicolas Ghesquière collection for Louis Vuitton was a love letter to Japan and its culture; the show was set within the stunning Miho Museum in Kyoto. Ghesquière used with Japanese references as he featured illustrated sequined dresses and guaranteed-hit Kabuki-eyed bags imagined by Kansai Yamamoto. The collection was filled with prints, layers, and textures, as well as a rebellious, badass attitude. Other tough girl collections include Dundas and Miu Miu.
Louis Vuitton (Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Dundas (Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Miu Miu (Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Gucci’s Alessandro Michele has a love of history and the renaissance. As the creative director for Gucci, Michele brought the brand back to its home in Florence for resort, showing at the Palatine Gallery of Palazzo Pitti. Michele injected his collection with heritage, irreverence, and plenty of kitschy charm. Plenty of designer followed suit with vintage inspired florals such as Rossie Assoulin, Etro, No.21 and Brock Collection
Gucci (Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Rosie Assoulin (Courtesy of Rosie Assoulin)
No. 21 (Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Karl Lagerfeld usually shows his Chanel Resort collections in exotic locals, but this season, he transformed Paris into Ancient Greece for his grand show. Lagerfeld showed an abundance of Grecian goddess dresses that were breathtaking. Lagerfeld wasn’t the only designer inspired by Ancient Greece, Roberto Cavalli, Fausto Puglisi and J.Mendel all had beautiful Grecian invigorated frocks.
Chanel (Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Fausto Puglisi (Courtesy of Fausto Puglisi)
J. Mendel (Courtesy of J. Mendel)
Sure the shows were spectacular, but their were also plenty of trends for resort, here are some of the key looks to focus on:
Game Changer
Designers gave sporty clothes a glamorous spin. The look was especially noteworthy at Valentino, as Pierpaolo Piccioli showed track suits, dresses, and strappy sandals with athletic ankle socks. Other designers who got their game on: Prada, Mui Mui and Stella McCartney.
Valentino (Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Prada (Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Stella McCartney (Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Get Fruity
Citrus colors take center stage this season from zingy lime to tangy orange. Designers from both side of the Atlantic embraced the trend from Edun to MSGM.
MSGM (Courtesy of MSGM)
Edun (Courtesy of Edun)
Versus Versace (Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Jean Therapy
Denim has long been a favorite among designers. But this season, toss away your skinnies; the new trend is wide leg denim.
Oscar de la Renta (Courtesy of Vogue.com)
Karen Walker (Courtesy of Karen Walker)
See by Chloe (Courtesy of See By Chloe)
Seeing Stripes
Thom Browne, Joseph Altuzarra and plenty of other designers gave the classic stripe a modern update using dynamic colors and unusual placements worthy of a double take.
Spring is in the air and as the temperatures heat up, so do the fashion trends. Here is a look at the top ten fashion trends that millennials will embrace for spring and beyond.
Tickled Pink
Diana Vreeland once said “pink is the navy blue of India” and this spring designers from New York to Paris have embraced the femininely sweet shade. But don’t be fooled, although the hue is chock-full-of-saccharine, these looks are anything but girlie. The color palette runs the gamut from soft pastel tones to bold vibrant shades and can be found on everything from chic dresses and suits to the “It Bag” of the moment.
Céline (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
Maison Margiela (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
Making A Statement
Forget logomania. Millennials are embracing statement tees as they take a political stance against the unjust. In a throwback to Katharine Hamnett’s political slogan tees of the late 80’s and early 90’s, today’s variety can already be found all over Instagram and on celebrity “It Girls”. From Christian Dior’s “We Should All Be Feminists” version to Sacai’s “Horror Show” motto, these tees are already street-style approved.
Christian Dior (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
Sacai (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
Sporty Spice
Millennials are creatures of comfort as they continue to embrace the athleisure trend. Oversized Vetements sweatshirts were street-style approved this past fashion week and were worn by every fashion “It-Girl and Boy” proving this trend has staying power.
Vetements (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
Philipp Plein (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
Get Graphic
These stripes are not for the board room. For spring, designers are focusing on graphic, striped patterns that can be found on cool separates for day or night. These bold looks are selfie approved by fashionistas on both sides of the Atlantic.
Proenza Schoular (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
Marni (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
Jean Therapy
Who doesn’t love denim? Denim is the uniform for millennials, but for spring, the durable fabric is anything but basic. There are so many choices in the denim market from mom jeans to skinny; to wide-leg to cut-offs; anything goes. Celebrities and models off duty have also taken to wearing intricate embellished denim from day to night.
Junya Watanabe (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
Dsquared2 (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
80’s
Everyone loves a good throwback, and for spring, designers are looking to the Eighties for inspiration. From Gucci’s one shouldered ruffled number to Balmain’s electric blue suit; these bold looks are dramatic and daring.
Gucci (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
Balmain (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
Armed Forces
It’s become the uniform trend for millennials as military inspired and utility pockets are all the rage. For spring, the trend gets a chic update from Marc Jacob’s flirty take on camouflage to Dries Van Noten’s urban outerwear– these looks have plenty of charm.
Marc Jacobs (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
Dries Van Noten (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
Boudoir
Inner-wear as outerwear is all the rage as designers look to the boudoir for inspiration. Touches of lingerie references can be found on flirty bra tops, seductive slipdresses and sexy briefs.
Alexander Wang (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
Moschino (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
Sheer Delight
You’re so transparent. Designers are making a case for sheer clothing as the transparent trend continues to go strong for spring thanks to celebrities like Kim Kardashian who wears the trend with such confidence and bravado.
Chistopher Kane (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
Ann Demeulemeester (Image Credits: Vogue.com)
Outerwear
This year has been the year of great outerwear, from cool embroidered bombers to oversized puffers. For spring, the trend continues with Balenciaga’s bright puffer vest as well as quirky silk bombers.
