From left to right: Prada, Chanel, and Acne Studios. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Whether it was the 1700s author Jonathan Swift, Winston Churchill, Mark Twain or Steven King who is credited with saying “everything old is new again“, the quote perfectly sums up the fashion trend cycle. For the past few seasons Y2K fashion has been ruling the runway and blowing up our Instagram and TikTok feeds, specifically, the flower embellishment trend. For summer 2023, the Y2K handmade flower, popularized in the early aughts by Carrie Bradshaw (of Sex and the City fame) is back. This trend is growing (no pun intended) and taking the fashion world by storm.
Carrie Bradshaw had a love for oversized flowers. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)
From delicate lace and chiffon to bold leather and paper, handmade flowers are the rage. Rosettes, camellias, carnations and abstract versions thereof, are all timeless motifs that can be incorporated into any outfit. At UOF, we provide lessons on how to create these handmade embellishments to liven up any garment or accessory. We’re seeing them on everything…from basic t-shirts to little black dresses. Here’s some inspiration:
ROMANTIC AND ELEGANT
A look from Dries Van Noten’s Spring 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Whether you choose to adorn a little summer dress or a blouse with delicate flower details, this flower power trend is perfect for adding a touch of sophistication and grace to your wardrobe.
VERSATILE AND ADAPTABLE
A look from Sandy Liang’s Fall 2023 Show. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree)
Another great thing about adding flowers is that they are incredibly versatile and adaptable. Whether you prefer bold, statement-making flowers or more subtle and understated versions, there’s a style and size for every taste. Use them as a simple accent, or go all-out with an outfit that’s covered in them.
PLAYFUL AND FUN
A look from Blumarine’s Spring 2023 Show. (Photo Credit: Cosmopolitan)
Add flowers strategically to certain areas of a garment, or on sandals, shoes, handbags and hats. Handmade flowers are guaranteed to put a smile on your face and will add a touch of whimsy to any outfit.
AN ARRAY OF COLORS
Rocking Prada’s Spring 2023 Collection on the streets. (Photo: Credit Imaxtree)
Another idea is to use flowers in multi-colors or in different fabrics and other materials, like plastic, faux leather, patent leather or paper. Whether you prefer soft pastels or bold jewel tones, or, how about some psychedelic-colored flowers?
How about making flowers with upcycled materials? Or for the eco-friendly designer, out of sustainable and natural fibers? It’s a great way to support these efforts.
CELEBRITIES EMBRACE FLOWER POWER
Celebs around the globe have been rocking the flower embellishment trend. Here are some samples:
Actress Zendaya at the 2023 Screen Actors Guild Awards. (Photo Credit: L’Officiel)
A slew of actresses wearing assorted flowers on the red carpet. (Photo Credit: Getty Images. Collage Credit: InStyle)
Harry Styles jumped on the flower trend for the 2023 Brit Awards. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)
As the flower embellishment trend continues to gain momentum, why not get in on the action by learning how to make your own handmade versions? Watch these lessons:
SO, TELL US, WILL YOU BE JUMPING ON THE FLOWER POWER TREND?
Nicolas Ghesquière presents the women’s Louis Vuitton Fall 2023 Collection inspired by French style. (Photo Credit: Rain Magazine)
Au Revoir! Paris Fashion Week wrapped up this week but not before the controversy over whether designers saw fashion shows as an opportunity to stage theatrical spectacles, while others chose to focus on craftsmanship and the clothing itself. In a recent UoF social media post, we asked our followers what they thought and it came as no surprise that all but one commented that the art & craft wins over hype. With over 500 UoF lessons on ‘how-to’ create fashion, our social media followers and subscribers have a mature respect for how clothes are created and the skill, technique and talent involved in doing so, which is why ‘we’ (the collective we) loved to see Balenciaga and Saint Laurent strip back the theatrics to focus on craftsmanship. Not that we don’t love a bit of whimsy, techno fashion and sustainability thrown in, but for us purists, we like to know that someone cares about the craft.
Paris Fashion Week Fall 2023 was the longest running Fashion Week out of all the cities. The 8-day extravaganza (shows began on Monday, February 27th to Tuesday, March 7) was yet another fashion viral sensation with everyone’s social media feeds blowing up.
A look from Comme des Garçons’ Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)
Before we dive into Paris’ most viral moments, let’s take a look back at Paris Fashion Week, one of the most important events in the fashion industry. And, of all the global fashion weeks, has the longest and richest history that spans over a century:
The first Paris Fashion Week took place in 1910 and was organized by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne, the governing body for the French fashion industry. At that time the event was known as the “Fashion Show” and held in the salons of the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.
The event grew in popularity over the years and in the 1950s it became known as the “Paris Collections.” During this time, it was the only fashion event in the world that featured the latest collections of the most prestigious fashion houses.
In the 1970s, the event underwent a major transformation when ready-to-wear collections were added to the lineup. This brought a new audience to the event and helped to democratize fashion.
Since then, Paris Fashion Week has continued to evolve and adapt to changing times. It now showcases both haute couture and ready-to-wear collections, and has expanded to include menswear and accessories. The event is now held twice a year and it attracts thousands of visitors from around the world.
In February 2020, when the pandemic hit, Chinese buyers and journalists were unable to attend due to travel restrictions. However, the event continued as planned, however, later that year fashion brands got creative. Some presented their collections digitally, through films or lookbooks, held shows without audiences or to a limited audience and some shows were held outdoors.
Because the French and the fashion show are synonymous, it didn’t take long before live Paris shows were back. In 2022, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Off-White, Stella McCartney, Miu Miu, Chloe, Givenchy, Valentino, Balmain, Vivienne Westwood and The Row were among the 45 houses set to host in-person runway shows.
Looks from Loewe’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: L’Officiel)
Today, Paris Fashion Week is back to pre-pandemic levels with a full-on schedule, packed venues, and street style stars peacocking throughout the streets of Paris. Paris Fashion Week is considered one of the most important events in the fashion industry and it continues to set the standard for creativity and innovation in design. Yes, fashion is all about being noticed, we get it, and and stand-out moments in a designer’s shows gets them lots of social media buzz. But, hey designers, remember those of us who value craftsmanship and who actually buy and wear your clothes. It’s what keeps you in business!
VIRAL MOMENTS DURING PARIS FASHION WEEK
A look from Dior’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
For the past few seasons, Maria Grazia Chiuri looked to various forms of art for inspiration. In her Fall 2023 Dior Collection, Chiuri enlisted Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos to create a larger-than-life fabric installation that served as a contrasting backdrop to her sober collection.
A look from Chanel’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Chanel)
The camellia is the signature flower at Chanel, and this season, creative director Virginie Viard focused on the flower literally, in prints, embroideries and as a massive sculpture at the start of the runway.
Looks from Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Re-Edition)
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood’s Fall 2023 collection was a tribute to the great Dame. Westwood’s widower and collaborator, Kronthaler, paid tribute to the late designer by recreating some of Westwood’s signature looks: Crinoline skirts, corsets, towering platforms, buckles, chokers, vintage fabrics, and plenty of plaids. The result, a beautiful love letter to the woman who shook up the fashion world.
Looks from Anrealage’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Imagine having a dress that can change colors. Using a moving UV light, Anrealage’s Fall 2023 collection transformed from basic to breathtaking, revealing vibrant colors and patterns hidden under plain white looks.
Looks from Acne Studio’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)
Acne Studios transported its runway into a fantastical forest, as the brands creative director Jonny Johansson showcased form-fitting dresses with crocheted flowers sprouting from the fabric and a patchwork of leaf cutouts. “I’ve always enjoyed the contrast between urban life and nature, the idea that an infinite forest is just around the corner,” explained Johansson on Instagram.
A look from Balenciaga’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)
Balenciaga’s Fall 2023 show was Demna Gvasalia’s return to the runway after the fallout that followed a series of controversial campaigns involving children. Gvasalia revealed that the new direction of Balenciaga isn’t one that will rely on shock and spectacle, but rather one that goes back to Balenciaga’s roots – craftsmanship above everything else.
A look from Stella McCartney’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: The Impression)
Stella McCartney took fashion insiders to the rodeo. The designer has been at the forefront of vegan alternatives to animal materials, and so it was in a Paris horse stable that Stella made her latest political statement about the place of animals in the fashion industry.
Looks from Miu Miu’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Harper’s Bazaar)
No pants required at Miu Miu. Miuccia Prada sent out jeweled encrusted briefs that stole the show. Start getting those legs in shape everyone!
Looks from Nina Ricci’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Nina Ricci)
Twenty-six year old Harris Reed debuted his highly anticipated Nina Ricci collection to rave reviews. The collection was dramatic and included oversized hats, bows and silhouettes in an assortment that was clearly made for the Red Carpet.
A look from Saint Laurent’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)
Speaking of oversized, working 9-5 never looked so chic as Saint Laurent’s creative director ,Anthony Vaccarello, looked to the Eighties for inspiration through the viewpoint of the glitzy, dolled-up corporate women of the decade. Think Sigourney Weaver and Melanie Griffith in Working Girl.
But the real pièce de résistance came with Vaccarello’s ability deliver a playful element to this otherwise serious collection.
A look from Coperni’s Fall 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)
Always pushing the boundaries between fashion as art and fashion as performance art (who can forget when Coperni employed technicians to spray a fabric dress onto Bella Hadid for its spring 2023 back in September 2022?). This season designers Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant explored the relationship between fashion and technology through a theatrical show involving Spot robots from the American company Boston Dynamics.
So tell us, do you think designers should focus on great clothes and leave all the gimmicks behind?
Gigi Hadid is officially back on the runway. Here she is backstage at the Versace show with her sister Bella. (Photo Credit: Vogue Runway)
Ciao! Milan Fashion Week ended on a high note as designers looked to the promise of la vita bella (a beautiful life) as COVID-19 vaccines were being distributed throughout Europe as well as the world.
With the possibility of ‘back-to-normal’ in the not too distant future, Italian and French designers created energetically charged pieces at MFW and PFW with the hope that we will all be making a big splash when we return to a life of normalcy.
(Video credit: Valentino’s live show)
Like New York and London Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week shows were digitally-focused with one exception, namely, Valentino’s intimate runway show. The Milan schedule was packed with established designers such as Missoni, Alberta Ferretti, Moschino, Max Mara, Marni, and Dolce & Gabbana but the highlight of MFW was Kim Jones’ highly anticipated ready-to-wear debut for Fendi, which definitely delivered. Another show of note was Team Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada, who presented their second Prada collab women’s collection to raves. In addition to the traditional line-up of veteran designers, there were a few new names in the mix (finally), such as former Gucci designer Daniel Del Core.
(Video credit: Daniel Del Core’s debut collection)
Daniel Del Core’s debut collection was a socially distance IRL (in real life) show. It’s definitely every aspiring designer’s dream to climb the ladder, gathering experience on someone else’s dime and then ultimately launch their own brand. The proof of the pudding comes when you finally get to ‘strut-your-stuff’ with a runway show. This designer not only succeeded but did it during a pandemic! Check out Daniel’s show video. So, what do you think? Definitely rocking the 80s shoulder, right?
Covid is still wreaking havoc on the fashion show schedule and a few designers presented their digital collections after Milan Fashion Week, such as Versace’s Donatella Versace and Luke and Lucie Meier at Jil Sander. Dates for Bottega Veneta and Gucci are still up in the air.
A look from Prada’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Prada)
Nonetheless, MFW was full of bold trends, thanks to Italian designers’ flare for dramatics. For them, life after lockdown will be anything but boring. Here are our top five trends:
ALL BUNDLED UP
Baby it’s cold outside! For Fall 2021, designers in Milan showed plenty of terrific outerwear to keep you warm, yet oh so fashionable. Brands such as Fendi and Prada featured fabulous big, furry coats, while Valentino focused on charming capes that offer effortless glamour to any look. Meanwhile, the basic puffer got a makeover with unique shapes and bold colors, case in point, Marni.
A look from Marni’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree)
A look from Fendi’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Fendi)
A look from Prada’s Fall 2021 Collection and the accessory of the season, the zip pouch glove. (Photo Credit: Prada)
A look from Valentino’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Salvatore Dragone)
A look from MSGM’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree)
METALLICA
Glitz and glamour ruled the runways from futuristic silver suits at Annakiki to chainmail gowns at Salvatore Ferragamo, these glistening looks will rule the return of the red carpet.
A look from Annakiki’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Imaxtree)
A look from Moschino’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Moschino)
A look from Salvatore Ferragamo’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Salvatore Ferragamo)
THE PREPPY HANDBOOK
Leave it to the Italians to give the classic Preppy look a much-needed update. For fall, designers like Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Etro are giving the otherwise conservative styles a cool makeover. Relaxed shapes, vibrant hues and edgy styling take preppy away from the country club to and onto the backs of our favorite fashion influencers.
A look from Etro’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Etro)
A look from Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini)
A look from Andrea Pompilio’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Andrea Pompilio)
BRIGHT OF WAY
Italian designers lit up the season with fantastically bright hues — pink, lavender, yellow, and teal were particularly popular on the runways. Brands like MSGM and Emilio Pucci clashed hues in the most creative and vibrant ways.
A look from Dolce & Gabbana’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Dolce & Gabbana)
A look from MSGM’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: MSGM)
A look from Emilio Pucci’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Emilio Pucci)
GREEN DAY
Olive has become the new neutral, giving the nod to military-inspired looks that marched down runways by the legion and received uniform salutes. From Ports 1961’s belted coat to Sportmax’s utility shirt, today’s military trend is chic and polished.
A look from Sportmax’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Sportmax)
A look from Max Mara’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Max Mara)
A look from Ports 1961’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Ports 1961)
PARIS
A look from Dries Van Noten’s Fall 2021Collection. (Photo Credit: Casper Sejersen)
As of the writing of this blog, Paris Fashion Week is still going strong. The fashion show season officially ends on March 10th, but in the City of Lights, the Fall 2021 collections started out with a bang! PFW never disappoints by offering collections that reflect the climate of today, but also gives us the possibilities of dreams and fantasies. Even during the turmoil we are all facing due to the global pandemic, the tremendous loss of life, economic uncertainty and political and social upheaval – designers are still pushing forward creating beautiful collections that offer an escape from the real world and that envision better days ahead.
The most anticipated show of the season was Gabriela Hearst’s debut collection for Chloé. It was an IRL outdoor fashion show and Hearst lived up to the hype.
(Video Credit: Chloé’s Fall 2021 Show)
Gabriela Hearst stayed true to the heritage of Chloé as she offered a collection filled with rich bohemian inspired looks. Hearst, a designer known to incorporate sustainable practices in her own collection, brought that sensibility to Chloé. She integrated lower-impact raw materials and put a plan in place to lower carbon emissions by 2025. The collection was filled with Boho pieces that you will want to hold on to forever, such as a series of ponchos in stripes and solids, along with knit maxi dresses. Heart showed terrific outerwear from spliced trench coats to a cut-away shearling coat, as well as plenty of patchwork looks, including a leather patchwork jacket and skirt set. In a fashion season dominated by 80s shoulders, Hearst’s bohemian vibe had a ‘70s aesthetic that was fresh and modern.
OTHER TRENDS
SPACE AGE
Futuristic fashion was all over the runways of Paris, from Rick Owens’ sharp shoulders and shimmering bodysuits, to Courrèges’ mod high neck jacket. These looks will have you standing out in any crowd.
A look from Rick Owens’ Fall 2021Collection. (Photo Credit: Carlo Scarpato)
A look from Alexandre Vauthier’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Alexandre Vauthier)
A look from Vetements’ Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Gio Staiano)
A look from Courrèges’ Fall 2021Collection. (Photo Credit: Thomas de Cruz Media)
PRETTY IN PINK
Pink has been a favorite among the millennial set, so for fall, designers showed a range of pretty pink looks from Patou’s belted jacket with feathered trim to Coperni’s zippered dress. Pink is here to stay.
A look from Patou’s Fall 2021Collection. (Photo Credit: Patou)
A look from Coperni’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Fillippo Fior)
A look from Acne Studios’ Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Acne Studios)
A look from Nina Ricci’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Nina Ricci)
THE COLD SHOULDER
Designers adopted a chic asymmetry with interesting bare shoulder effects.
A look from Coperni’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Fillippo Fior)
A look from Acne Studios’ Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Acne Studios)
A look from Ellery’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Kym Ellery)
A look from Alaïa’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Piere-Ange Carlotti)
HERELD SQUARES
Check this out: windowpane, tartan, houndstooth and more. This fall, designers have gone mad for plaid.
A look fromVivienne Westwood’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Alice Dellal)
Looks from Marine Serre’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Marine Serre)
A look from Courrèges’ Fall 2021Collection. (Photo Credit: Thomas de Cruz Media)
WELL SUITED
Pantsuits were all over the runways, but in Paris, they were anything but business-like. Designers took the office staple to new heights by injecting them with the boldest of hues.
A look from Thebe Magugu’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Thebe Magugu)
A look from Loewe’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Loewe)
A look from Nina Ricci’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Nina Ricci)
A look from Isabel Marant’s Fall 2021 Collection. (Photo Credit: Isabel Marant)