Are You Ready to Break the Rules?

- - Draping

Many creatives have said that you must learn the rules first in order to break them effectively. At the U of F, we tend to agree. Designers add credit to their work when they understand fashion history and can reference influences of decades past. Designers with a strong knowledge of the principles of draping and pattern making have a deeper understanding of how garments are made to fit the body. By applying these basic principles that are tried and true methods for ensuring perfect fit, designers can then work off a proven foundation when developing new methods and ultimately, original design.

The new video we are introducing this week is a perfect example of taking a well-known draping challenge – what to do with the extra fabric caused by the bust – and turning it into a design opportunity.

But first, take the time to review draping basics in Bodice Sloper. This video walks you through fundamental pre-draping procedures including measuring the dress form to prepare your muslin blocks, measuring, tearing, blocking and pressing your muslin pieces and the importance of adding guidelines for balancing the grain as you drape. These procedures apply each and every time you drape a garment. This video also acts as a primer for resolving excess fabric into seam lines. As we mentioned, this is your opportunity to learn the rules, so that you can effectively break them.

Once you have reviewed the rules, then learn how you can begin to take your knowledge of the body and fit and start to manipulate your fabric to create something new entirely. Our first video in dart manipulation is Center Front Waist Dart Bodice with Scoop Neckline. In this video, you will begin to see how you can move around the excess fabric created by the bust when draping, yet still maintain an impeccable fit. As you learn this method for effectively manipulating a dart in a garment, allow your imagination to run wild in terms of other ways you can apply this new method. Are you ready to break the rules? Now is your chance – click, watch and learn below.

For added inspiration, take a look at how excess bust fabric was resolved in the images in the header of this post. Maison Margiela, Schiaparelli and Atelier Versace Fall 2015 couture shows currently featured on Style.com represent a good marriage of skill and rule-breaking in terms of design.

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Kara Laricks is a regular contributor to the University of Fashion. She’s also a New York based women's wear and accessories designer. As the first winner of NBC's Fashion Star, Kara has designed collections for H&M, Macy's and Saks Fifth Avenue. Her masculine meets feminine line, Kara Laricks, debuted at New York Fashion Week in 2012 and her S/S 2013 collection sold exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue. Kara's designs have been featured on the Today Show and HBO's True Blood as well as covered in Women's Wear Daily and on Style.com. Kara holds Master's degrees in both Curriculum and Instruction from the University of Kansas and in Fashion Design from the Academy of Art in San Francisco. An educator turned designer, Kara is dedicated to supporting emerging designers and inspiring others to follow where dreams lead.