At a time in history when the Time’s Up movement is taking center stage during awards season, blogging about best-and worst-dressed celebs at the Grammys seems…well…an antiquated approach to covering one of fashion’s biggest nights.
The New Year has just begun and the fashion show hamster wheel is spinning faster than ever. The Men’s Fall/Winter 2018 season kicked off in London where a number of New York editors missed the shows due to blizzard conditions. Then in was off to Florence for Pitti Uomo, a chic affair showcasing some of the most dandy and chicest menswear collections in Europe; meanwhile, Milan offered plenty of bold, cutting edge trends. Although both London and Milan have shortened their show schedules, there was still plenty of great fashion to see, including all the co-ed shows, which just may become runway’s future.
Paris is winding down, but the biggest news out of the fashion capital was the announcement that Kim Jones, the Men’s Artistic Director for Louis Vuitton since 2011, is leaving the company. Jones presented his final show for Louis Vuitton on Thursday and received a standing ovation as he walked side by side with supermodels Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss. Now that’s making an exit!
But now the guessing game begins, who will replace Jones and where will Jones end up next?
Although the season is still going strong, here are a few key menswear trends so far:
Logo’s are back and better than ever. The logo craze was first reserved for accessories, but today, companies are branding their names on everything from intarsia knits to fur coats (hello Fendi).
It’s a throwback to the nineties, as utilitarian inspired looks ruled the runways from London to Paris.
Suit-Up. Sharp, tailored suits made their mark on the runway as the classic looks take a modern turn, complete with ties and all.
The athleisure trend is still going strong as streetwear inspired looks continue to take center stage.
FIT TO PRINT
Designers are playing mix-and-match this season as head to toe prints are making a splash.
BRAVE THE COLD
Terrific outerwear was all over the runway, but one of the key outerwear trends were shearling jackets that were effortless yet cozy.
TELL US, WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE MENSWEAR TREND THIS SEASON?
Today, we celebrate Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.’s legacy. The spirit, purpose and importance of this day feel weightier in the current political climate. And the change Dr. King brought serves as a much needed reminder that “we must accept finite disappointment, but never lose infinite hope.”
As professionals in the field of fashion, we’ve always been committed to the idea that our differences are what make our works original. Diversity in where we come from or how we think or how we identify ourselves brings rich variety to that which we create. And therefore, if everyone does not have an equal chance to make their voices heard, then we are all missing out on what the silenced have to offer. Read More
Hollywood A-listers have long used their fame to promote individual causes, whether political, ethnic or humanitarian. But at this year’s 75th Annual Golden Globes, most all of the attending actors and actresses stood unified in a sea of black (or wore Time’s Up pins). Dressing in black resulted in a powerful solidarity statement, lending support to the ” Time’s Up” and “Me To” movements and those who so courageously continue to speak out against sexual harassment and female inequality. The days of watching award shows solely for the fashion are démodé, or are they? Clothes at award shows are now more important than ever! Oprah Winfrey’s Cecil B. DeMille AwardAward speech said it all : “a new day is on the horizon!”
Side by side with Hollywood heavyweights stood female activists such as Monica Ramirez, a campaigner who fights sexual violence against farmworkers and Billie Jean King, the founder of the Women’s Tennis Association, whom Emma Stone portrays in Battle of the Sexes.
While many celebrities dazzled on the stage, the red carpet was filled with fashion drama. Here are some of the biggest trends of the night: (All photos courtesy of Shutterstock).
THE NEW SUIT
NOT YOUR BASIC TUXEDO
Winners of the night included:
Best motion picture, drama: “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri”
Best motion picture, musical or comedy: “Lady Bird”
Best actress in a motion picture, drama: Frances McDormand, “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri”
Best actor in a motion picture, drama: Gary Oldman, “Darkest Hour”
Best actor in a motion picture, musical or comedy: James Franco, “The Disaster Artist”
Best actress in a motion picture, musical or comedy: Saoirse Ronan, “Lady Bird”
Best supporting actor, any motion picture: Sam Rockwell, “Three Billboards outside Ebbing, Missouri”
Best supporting actress, any motion picture: Allison Janney, “I, Tonya”
Best director: Guillermo del Toro, “The Shape of Water”
Best screenplay: Martin McDonagh, “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri”
Best television series, drama: “The Handmaid’s Tale”
Best television series, musical or comedy: “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel”
Best limited series or motion picture made for television:”Big Little Lies”
Best actress in a series, limited series or motion picture made for television: Nicole Kidman, “Big Little Lies”
Best actor in a series, limited series or motion picture made for television: Ewan McGregor, “Fargo”
Best actress in a television series, drama: Elisabeth Moss, “The Handmaid’s Tale”
Best actor in a television series, drama: Sterling K. Brown, “This Is Us”
Best actress in a television series, musical or comedy: Rachel Brosnahan, “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel”
Best actor in a television series, musical or comedy: Aziz Ansari, “Master of None”
Best supporting actor in a series, limited series or motion picture made for television: Alexander Skarsgård, “Big Little Lies”
Best supporting actress in a series, limited series or motion picture made for television: Laura Dern, “Big Little Lies”
TELL US, WHAT WAS YOUR FAVORITE LOOK OF THE NIGHT? AND, SHOULD OPRAH RUN FOR PRESIDENT?
Happy 2018, U of F designers! 2017 has wrapped, and our hope for you in 2018 is that you take a moment to look back and recognize your accomplishments over the past year with as much excitement as you look forward to your new goals.
So, what are your top 3 proudest moments of 2017?
And your top 3 plans for 2018?
We’re asking ourselves the same questions. Read More
In the world of fashion, pre-fall is many things.
It’s the longest-running season, opening to buyers and press in November and wrapping up on the heels of spring couture in January. Generally, pre-fall collections offer more commercial looks than the main runway seasons, giving retailers the opportunity to present new merchandise to their customers between the fall and spring collections. It has also become the most important sales season with merchandise sitting on the sales floor for up to six months. But in today’s world, it is also becoming increasingly difficult to define the season, as designers show various interpretations of what exactly “pre-fall” means.
The name (pre-fall) alludes to autumn, but the deliveries hit stores in the beginning of summer. Designers present everything from fur coats to cotton eyelet dresses and everything in between. So the terminology is confusing to everyone – designers, retailers, and consumers – so shouldn’t the season be looked at as a transitional one? Shouldn’t it be a season that offers a variety of weights and styles to satisfy both a customer looking for a summer outfit in July that they can transition into fall, as well as someone buying a coat or knit that they can wear through the colder months?
In additional to addressing transitional weather, pre-fall can also be a prelude to the next runway collection; an opportunity to test what works and doesn’t work with clients. For many designers, pre-fall can help lay-out the groundwork for many of the shapes and ideas that appear in the following season.
On an ethical note, there are just too many clothes out there; designers are producing too much instead of considering the outcome. So many designers are churning out ‘bestsellers’ and collections that have no point or value to the system; stores are buying them to keep up with the never-ending seasonal trends. It leads to the same clothes in all the stores with less than stellar sales.
So while many in the industry ponder on what the season means to them and how the pre-fall model varies for every designer, here are some of the highlights from the Pre-Fall 2018 season so far:
YARN IT ALL
Miles beyond the plain –Jane sweater, a wonderful tactile world of cozy knits await from chic sweater dresses to feminine sweaters.
Designers are making a case for head to toe prints this season as patterns are mixed in fun and playful ways.
In a nod to the classics, the white button down shirt gets a fresh make-over this season.
Designers dug deep into the archives and pulled out bright colors and body-conscious silhouettes.
Things got plenty hairy this season in the form of oh-so-cozy yet beastly furs (in both real and faux).
Then there are the designers who want to hold on to summer offering sweat little dresses to keep cool and look fresh.
WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THE PRE-FALL SEASON AND HOW SHOULD YOUNG DESIGNERS APPROACH THE SEASON?
The fashion designer in your life…
A creative entrepreneur.
A trend setter.
An ahead-of-the-curve visionary.
And during the holidays, one of the hardest people to buy for on your list. Read More
On Monday, December 4th, the biggest names in the fashion industry – from Donatella Versace to Stella McCartney – partied it up with lovely Hollywood entertainers – like Selina Gomez and Pink – as well as fashion-loving socialites – Lady Amelia Windsor was one of the best dressed of the evening – for England’s biggest fashion event of the year, the British Fashion Council’s annual Fashion Awards (formerly known as the British Fashion Awards). In partnership with Swarovksi, the 2017 British Fashion Council’s Fashion Awards ceremony took place at London’s famous Royal Albert Hall and the crowd looked fabulous.
The star-studded red carpet commanded much attention with fashion royalty and A-listers such as Naomi Campbell, Alexa Chung, Karlie Kloss, Kaia Gerber, Rita Ora, Zendaya and many more beauties; but not even such star-power wattage took away from the event’s purpose, to honor the best and brightest in fashion.
Nominees for the 2017 Fashion Awards were “chosen from hundreds of international names and they represent the most creative talent and innovative businesses of the year” said Natalie Massenet, the British Fashion Council Chairman, in a statement she released to the press this past October (2017).
The evening was filled with plenty of emotional and touching moments as fashion’s finest paid tribute to industry veterans as well as the stars of the future. Christian Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri acknowledged the late Editor-In-Chief of Italian Vogue Franca Sozzani, while Naomi Campbell and a gaggle of models presented a powerful message that while Azzedine Alaïa might have passed away, his legacy will live on.
The British Fashion Council has a history of helping and supporting talented designers. According to Francesca Sterlacci, the Founder and CEO of University of Fashion and the author of The Historical Dictionary of the Fashion Industry, the British Fashion Council (BFC) was founded in 1983 and was borne out of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers which was disbanded in the 1970s. The BFC is a nonprofit limited company that is financed by industry sponsors. In 1989 the BFC created the British Fashion Awards, to honor those who have made a major contribution to fashion industry throughout the year. The BFC also created New Generation (NEWGEN) in 1993, one of the most internationally recognized talent identification initiatives that continue to showcase and promote new designer businesses. Since 2001, the initiative has been sponsored by retailer Topshop and has been pivotal in nurturing emerging London talent. Designers that have been promoted as part of NEWGEN are, Alexander McQueen, Boudicca, Matthew Williamson, Julien Macdonald and more recently Christopher Kane, Marios Schwab, Richard Nicoll, Erdem, Mary Katrantzou, Meadham Kirchhoff, Simone Rocha, J.W. Anderson and Christopher Raeburn. Also initiated in 1993 was the Colleges Council, which provides opportunities for students to become involved in the industry through various activities including events, seminars and competitions.
In 2008, the London Fashion Showcasing Fund was created to support London Fashion Week. The BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund (The Fund) was launched by BFC Chairman Harold Tillman in September 2008 as part of the BFC’s 25th anniversary celebrations. The Fund is supported by Burberry, Debenhams, Harrods, Paul Smith, Topshop and Vogue.
Today, ( in 2017) the British Fashion Council has been focusing on its Positive Fashion initiative, which is a platform designed to create positive change in the industry through Sustainability: Origins & Ethics, Going Green, Fairtrade & Environmental Health; Model Health & Diversity: Education, Communication & Equality; and Local Manufacturing & Craftsmanship.
Here are the winners of the fashion industry’s biggest achievers according to the British Fashion Council:
Model of the Year: Adwoa Aboah
Urban Luxe Brand: Virgil Abloh for Off-White
Business Leader: Marco Bizzarri for Gucci
British Emerging Talent — Menswear: Charles Jeffrey for Charles Jeffrey Loverboy
British Emerging Talent — Womenswear: Michael Halpern for Halpern
British Designer of the Year — Menswear: Craig Green for Craig Green
British Designer of the Year — Womenswear: Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson
Accessories Designer of the Year: Jonathan Anderson for Loewe
Designer of the Year: Raf Simons for Calvin Klein
Swarovski Award for Positive Change: Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior
Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator: Pat McGrath
Outstanding Contribution to British Fashion Award: Christopher Bailey
Special Recognition Award for Innovation: Stella McCartney
Fashion Icon Award: Donatella Versace & House of Versace
Do you agree with the winners nominated by The British Fashion Council? Let us know your choices.
“I promise you I learn something new every day. And I want to try to keep it that way, until the day I die.” -Azzedine Alaïa
Every year, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City hosts a fashion inspired exhibit, and its 2018 theme, “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” could be their most controversial yet. The juxtaposition of fashion and religious artwork masterpieces will be designed to study fashion’s continuous fascination with the traditional practices of the Catholic Church. The Met has arranged to showcase a group of papal robes and accessories from the Vatican, highlighting the ongoing influence liturgical vestments have on designers.
The exhibition, which in turn prompts the theme for the annual, Vogue-associated Met Gala and its spectacular red carpet parade, will take place on the first Monday of May and the exhibit will open to the public on May 10th. The Met Gala will be hosted by a trio of fashionable women: Donatella Versace, Rihanna and Amal Clooney. The exhibition will go beyond the usual confines of the Anna Wintour Costume Center, expanding to The Met’s medieval galleries and the Cloisters outpost in northern Manhattan. According to The New York Times, the exhibition will be the Costume Institute’s largest exhibition to date; depending on how it’s executed, it may also be the most polarizing.
“We know it could be controversial for right wing or conservative Catholics and for liberal Catholics,” curator Andrew Bolton told the Times. But president and chief executive of the Met Daniel H. Weiss noted that he has “confidence that the exhibition will inspire understanding, creativity and, along the way, constructive dialogue, which is precisely a museum’s role in our civil society.” Bolton also consulted local Catholic leadership in New York, not to mention partnered with the Vatican for parts of the exhibition, hoping that this may help ease tensions felt by the faithful.
“The Roman Catholic Church has been producing and promoting beautiful works of art for centuries,” director of the Holy See press office Greg Burke told the Times. “Most people have experienced that through religious paintings and architecture. This is another way of sharing some of that beauty that rarely gets seen.”
The exhibition will not only present The Met’s own religious art collection but will also feature religious garments borrowed from the Vatican, attendees will be able to view 50 ecclesiastical masterworks from the Sistine Chapel sacristy, many of which were never shown outside of the Vatican. These works will be showcased along with papal vestments, rings, tiaras and accessories from more than 15 papacies in the Anna Wintour Costume Center galleries. That area alone will highlight work from the 18th to the early 21st century. The Vatican has not made a loan of this scope to The Met since its exhibition in 1982 entitled, The Vatican Collections: The Papacy and Art, which ranked third as The Met’s most-visited show.
Clothing from 150 designer collections that pay homage to Catholicism, will have their work on display. Designers included are: Dolce & Gabbana, Jean Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Thom Browne, Azzedine Alaïa, Christopher Kane, John Galliano for the House of Dior, Claire McCardell, Madeleine Vionnet, Isabel Toledo, Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino, Elsa Schiaparelli, Raf Simons for his own label and the House of Dior.
The fashion component will be mostly woman’s wear from the early 20th century to present. The exhibit is meant to provide an interpretative context for fashion’s engagement with Catholicism. The designs are meant to be considered within the broader context of religious artistic production to analyze their connection to the historiography of material, Christianity and their contribution to the perceptual construction of the Catholic imagination, according to press material provided by The Met.
As you can see, fashion has long borrowed from the Catholic Church’s rich visual history; From Dolce & Gabbana sending religious imagery down the runway to pop stars like Madonna and Lady Gaga, using clothing to set themselves up as new ‘spiritual icons’. Fashion’s relationship with the Catholic Church and churches in general, have always been somewhat provocative. During London Fashion Week 2017, a bitter row erupted with leading clerics after Turkish designer Dilara Findikoglu used an historic church to showcase her collection, with models dressed as devils and vampires sashaying in front of the altar. And who can forget Madonna’s controversy by inappropriately using Christian imagery in her songs, videos and concerts with songs like “Like a Virgin” (1984) to “Like a Prayer” (1989) and her Confessions Tour in 2005 ?