University of Fashion Blog

A Master Class in Measuring the Female Body

Francesca Sterlacci - March 7, 2026 - Bespoke Tailoring, Draping, fashion Terminology, Pattern Making, Tailoring

UoF’s lesson on measuring 104 points of the female body. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

One of the greatest challenges our students confess to is mastering the art (and science!) of measuring the female body. Take one wrong measurement, and it’s fashion’s version of a domino effect—suddenly your pattern fits like it was made for a completely different species. Accurate measuring isn’t just important; it’s the difference between runway-ready and “what on earth happened here?”

Measuring Points Diagrams

UoF’s measuring points diagrams. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Our master class on how to measure an actual, living, breathing female body—the kind that moves, sighs, and occasionally checks her phone mid-measurement, comes with free downloadable diagrams to help with the process.

UoF’s measuring points diagrams. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

You’ll master the fine art of extracting every vital dimension needed for draping and pattern making (without losing your tape measure halfway through). No more guess work.

UoF’s measuring points diagrams. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Along the way, we’ll decode all those fancy anatomical terms the fashion industry loves, such as, front neck base, bust arc, apex and bust span.

Measuring Points Chart

An example of UoF’s 7-page body measuring points chart — a color-coded companion to the diagrams. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Think of our downloadable, color‑coded chart as the VIP pass to your measuring marathon, perfectly in step with the diagrams and packed with clear explanations for the placement of all 104 official points of measure. Yes, 104—because in fashion, precision is everything and your tape measure is basically training for its own endurance sport.

But There’s More

UoF’s Women’s Global Size Range Chart Sizes 2-18 and their European equivalents. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Our Women’s Global Size Chart is the extra perk you didn’t know you needed. It not only breaks down points of measure for US sizes 2–18, but also gives you the European size equivalents, so your patterns can country-hop as effortlessly as your wardrobe.

Finale

By the time you are done with this lesson, you will not only speak the fluent geometry of the female form, you will move through spec sheets and tech packs with the quiet confidence of someone who knows exactly where every millimeter goes—and why it matters.

From Runway to Real Life: Making Fashion Fit for Everyone

Francesca Sterlacci - February 28, 2026 - Adaptive Fashion, Fashion Business, Fashion History

University of Fashion’ 5-part Adaptive Fashion series taught by Tracy Vollbrecht (Image credit: University of Fashion).

The fashion industry is slowly but steadily transforming adaptive fashion from a niche afterthought into a visible, growing part of mainstream apparel, driven by disability advocates, specialized pioneers, and now big-box and fast-fashion players. While progress is uneven and often fragmented, brands, retailers, educators, and policymakers are beginning to rewire systems—from design studios to runways and e‑commerce—to better serve disabled consumers. This market has become a $400 billion adaptive clothing opportunity for the fashion industry.Chihuahua fashion (Image credit: ebay.com) and Ascension Wheelchair Lifts (Image credit: Ascension Lift)

Did you know that there are more fashion choices for dogs than for people with disabilities? That’s right—the average chihuahua has a wider wardrobe than millions of humans. That is why, together with adaptive fashion designer Tracy Vollbrecht, University of Fashion has set out to change that with our a 5-part series on the topic!

Our lessons aim to shift fashion from an exclusive space to an inclusive one. We begin by examining disability representation—or more accurately, the lack of it—and how Disabled people have often been excluded from the fashion conversation.

Learn the Language

Excerpt from our Introduction to Adaptive Fashion lesson outlining terms and definitions for the Adaptive Market (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Understanding the adaptive fashion market begins with understanding the language used to talk about disability. Within the disability community, language matters deeply. There are two primary approaches: person-first language (e.g., person with a disability, person who uses a wheelchair, person with autism) and identity-first language (e.g., Disabled person, autistic person, wheelchair user). Because language is personal and constantly evolving, it’s best to follow the individual’s lead. For instance, if someone identifies as a “wheelchair user,” use that term; if they prefer “person who uses a wheelchair,” use that instead.

Mobility aids and assistive technologies—like wheelchairs or screen readers—are tools of freedom and independence, not limitations or burdens. They enable Disabled people to live full, self-directed lives.

Lastly, avoid euphemisms that originate outside the disability community, such as “handicapable,” “special needs”, or “differently abled”. These terms often don’t reflect the preferences of Disabled people themselves. As always, the best approach is to respect how each person chooses to describe their own experience.

History of Adaptive Fashion

Helen Cookman’s 17-piece adaptive collection, Functional Fashions, 1955. (Image credit: The Shapes United).

If you’re thinking about entering the adaptive fashion market—whether as a designer, brand, or retailer—let’s take a quick journey through its fascinating history before meeting the innovators driving today’s 21st-century movement. The story begins with something as small but revolutionary as the button, invented in the 13th century, and moves forward to 1941, when Velcro made its debut. These key developments in garment closures laid the groundwork for what would become adaptive fashion.

In 1955, Helen Cookman, following a recommendation from New York Times style editor Virginia Pope, began exploring the potential of adaptable clothing at New York University’s Institute of Physical Medicine and Rehabilitation. Over the next four years, she developed Functional Fashions—a 17-piece collection designed to help people with disabilities dress more independently and was one of the earliest and most influential adaptive clothing initiatives in the United States.

Adaptive Fashion Today

Tommy Hilfiger 2016 adaptive kids’ collection, Fashion for All. (Image credit: People Magazine).

Tommy Hilfiger was one of the first fashion brands to focus on this market when in 2016 he launched a children’s “Fashion for All” adaptive clothing line, featuring magnetic buttons, Velcro closures, and adjustable hems designed for easier dressing and seated wear. In 2017, he expanded to include adults.

Many brands are now creating dedicated adaptive collections rather than token one-off pieces. These lines typically integrate functional modifications directly into trend-aware garments, so they read as fashion first, not medical wear.

In 2025, the CFDA/VogueFashion Fund introduced a powerful new focus on adaptive fashion. They created an annual challenge competition reframing inclusive design not as a specialty category, but as a fundamental element of modern luxury fashion with Tommy Hilfiger as a sponsor and guest judge.

Mass retailers such as Target, Kohl’s, and Primark also added adding adaptive capsules, often developed with disabled designers or specialist partners, and distributing them through large footprints and click‑and‑collect networks to normalize access.

Specialist labels including IZ Adaptive, Silvert’s, Adaptions by Adrian, and others continue to serve as R&D hubs, refining seated tailoring, open‑back constructions, and sensory‑friendly basics that larger brands now reference.

For More on Adaptive Fashion

Adaptive Fashion: How People with Disabilities Experience Clothing By Susan Rothman Kolko

To learn more about how people with disabilities experience clothing read Susan Rothman Kolko’s book, Adaptive Fashion. If you are interested in creating your own adaptive fashion, be sure to subscribe to University of Fashion and complete all 5 lessons that we offer on the subject.

Final Thoughts

From the humble button to high-tech closures, adaptive fashion has always been about more than clothing—it’s about independence, dignity, and expression. As we look to the future, today’s designers carry forward a legacy built on creativity with purpose.

Announcing Our Newest Lesson: Drafting a Scoop Neckline for Knits

Francesca Sterlacci - February 21, 2026 - cut & sew knits, New Lessons, New University of Fashion Lessons, Pattern Making, Sewing

Part of our Cut & Sew knit drafting series: Drafting a Scoop Neckline for Knits. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Ready to wrestle some knits? Our latest lesson continues our journey into the wild world of cut & sew knit pattern drafting — where fabric stretches, stitches dance, and woven rules simply don’t apply. Drafting for wovens is one thing, but working with knits? That’s a whole different zoo.

University of Fashion knit foundation lessons: Introduction to Knit Fabrics and Knit Fabric Principles. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

If you haven’t already mastered the mysterious math of stretch ratios, check out our lessons Introduction to Knit Fabrics and Knit Fabric Principles. Because when your fabric bounces back like an overcaffeinated bungee cord, you’d better plan your design details accordingly.

Planning the neckline draft. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

In this lesson on drafting a scoop neckline, we’ll start with how to “read” a fashion sketch — basically translating a pretty drawing into practical pattern geometry. You’ll figure out how far to scoop that front and back neckline and how to decide the sweet spot where shoulder meets neck.

We’ll also walk you through several neckline finishes: a clean fold-over edge if you’re going sleek, a classic binding if you like structure, or the self-finished neckline and armholes trick (that’s two backs and two fronts — fashion math at its finest).

Sewing tip on how to keep the scoop neckline and armhole from stretching (Image credit: University of Fashion).

And because knit necklines love to stretch out like gossip at a fabric sale, we’ve included a pro secret: stabilize them with ¼” (6mm) clear flat elastic — cut just a wee bit shorter than the neckline and armhole circumference. Your future self (and your garments) will thank you.

Master this neckline and elastic trick, and knits stop being “high-maintenance divas” and start behaving like your most loyal wardrobe besties.

But There’s More

University of Fashion’s 3-part knit sewing series. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Become a knit whisperer with our lessons on picking the perfect seam allowances, plus hem and neckline finishes that make your stretchy designs behave like they actually want to be sewn.

Be sure to check out our other cut & sew knit-drafting lessons:

Drafting a Women’s Fitted Stable Knit T-Shirt from Measurements

Drafting A Knit Camisole

Drafting an Off-Shoulder Knit Top

Drafting An Off-Shoulder Knit Top with Cuff – 2 Variations

Drafting a Built-up Neckline for Knits

Drafting a Cowl Neckline for Knits

Drafting a Knit Halter Tank with a Racerback

Drafting a Boat Neckline for Knits

Drafting a Collared Neckline for Knits

Drafting a Hoodie Knit Top

The Fine Art of Lace: From Alençon to Battenberg

Francesca Sterlacci - February 14, 2026 - Fashion History, How It's Made, Lacemaking, Sewing

Image background is an example of “whitework” lace. (Image credit: University if Fashion).

At the University of Fashion, we believe lace shouldn’t be terrifyingly mysterious — it should be fabulously mysterious.

In UoF’s lesson, Lacis — Lace Museum learn about types of laces, lace history and lacemaking tools. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Our lace lesson takes you on a little field trip (virtually, of course) to the enchanting Lacis Museum in Berkeley, California. There, Museum Director Erin Algeo will help lift the veil (pun absolutely intended) on the delicate art of lacemaking.

Erin Algeo- Lacis Lace Museum curator & UoF instructor. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

In our lesson, Lacis — Lace Museum, you’ll get up close and personal with lace history and the tools that look like they belong in both a sewing kit and a medieval torture chamber — because, well, lace is serious business.

Examples of 17th Century Men’s & Women’s lace collars.

By the end, you’ll be able to tell your Alençon from your Chantilly, your Battenberg from your Cluny, and maybe even drop “Point de Gaze” into conversation just to sound fancy.

The True Laces

Let’s start with the “real deal” of the lace world — the equivalent of haute couture. There are two types considered the true laces: bobbin lace and needle lace.

Bobbin Lace

Example of how Bobbin lace is made. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Bobbin lace is made on a pillow using bobbins that hold threads, which are then woven and knotted into mesmerizing patterns. Think “spider weaving after three espressos.”

Needle Lace

Example of how Needle lace is made. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Needle lace, on the other hand, is made entirely with — you guessed it — a needle and thread, using endless variations of the humble buttonhole stitch. Bobbin lace came second in history, but honestly, both techniques are so breathtaking you’ll forgive them for sometimes impersonating each other.

Wannabe Laces (But Still Fabulous)

Example of a Battenberg lace using tape lace technique. (Image credit: shannonbassano.substack.com)

Then we have the “wannabe” laces — not true by historical definition, but every bit as gorgeous. Case in point: Battenberg lace. You’ve seen it on vintage tablecloths, maybe even your great aunt’s Sunday best. These laces use tape lace techniques, with a pattern laid out in tape (once made by hand, now machine-stitched) and joined together with — you guessed it again — needle lace stitches. The result? A looping, romantic masterpiece that doesn’t mind being called a “wannabe.” After all, if imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, Battenberg deserves a standing ovation.

Our Lace-Sewing Lessons

UoF’s 3-part lace-sewing series: Lace Appliqué Blanket Stitch & Overcast Stitch and Lace Overlap Seam. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

University of Fashion also has a lace-sewing series. We’ll take you beyond simply stitching lace fabric—you’ll learn the couture-level sorcery behind sewing with lace. First, you’ll discover how to extract a motif from lace yardage (no magic wand required) and appliqué it onto silk organza or another fabric of your choice, using either a blanket hand stitch or an overcast technique—depending on the temperament of your lace.

Next, we’ll unveil the secret to creating a seamless lace seam—the kind that separates couture craftsmanship from the “craft fair” look. You’ll also master how to apply this technique to darts and other tricky areas to reduce bulk and preserve your lace motifs in all their delicate glory. These methods are the backbone of your bridal, evening, and lingerie designs that whisper couture elegance rather than shout assembly line.

Final Thoughts

So, whether you’re a lace novice or a seasoned stitch whisperer, by the end of this University of Fashion journey, you’ll see lace in a whole new light — not just as trim for collars and cuffs, but as an intricate language woven from history, patience, and a touch of magic. After all, behind every loop and twist is a story hundreds of years in the making — and now, it’s one you’ll recognize the next time you spot a bit of Alençon peeking out from a vintage gown or a whisper of Chantilly on the runway. Lace, mysterious? Absolutely. But now, fabulously so.

The Quiet Elegance of Love

Francesca Sterlacci - February 7, 2026 - Bespoke Tailoring, Fashion Shows, Menswear, Milan Fashion Week, Tailoring

With Men’s Fall/Winter 2026/27 fashion week behind us, the season’s prevailing message was clear: softness is strength. Designers embraced unstructured tailoring, featherlight jackets, relaxed trousers, and oversized shirts and knits with fluid, rounded shoulders — silhouettes that favored ease over rigidity. One couldn’t help but see these trends as an unspoken tribute to Giorgio Armani, who passed away on September 4, 2025, at the age of 91.

Sergio Galeotti and Giorgio Armani co-founders of the Armani brand in 1975 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

When Armani died, the world mourned the loss of more than a designer — it lost a man who built an empire on subtlety, restraint, and human warmth. Yet those who knew him best understood that behind the measured confidence and quiet brilliance of his craft stood a constant, steady love: First with his co-founder Sergio Galeotti (1945-1985) and then with Leo Dell’Orco, his “right‑hand man” and now creative director of Armani menswear.

Leo Dell’Orco and Giorgio Armani (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

For over half a century, Leo was not only Armani’s partner but also his closest collaborator, the man who understood that Giorgio’s minimalist perfection was never cold — it was intimate. Their relationship was private, even quiet, yet it informed everything the Armani brand became. Together, they cultivated a vision rooted in emotional intelligence — clothes that whispered, never shouted; tailoring that respected the body, not the ego.

Leo, who began working with Armani in the 1970s, became the silent architect of the designer’s most enduring codes. Where Giorgio articulated purity and proportion, Leo safeguarded the soul of the brand. Their dialogue — both personal and creative — was one of continuous refinement. Every softened shoulder, every whisper of silk, every measured tone of taupe felt like a conversation between them, an unspoken understanding turned tangible.

Armani Fall/Winter 2026/27 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

Now, as the world looks toward the Spring 2026–2027 menswear collection — the first conceived entirely under Leo’s direction since Armani’s passing — the clothes themselves feel like a eulogy written in fabric. Reviewers have called it a “silent ode” to Armani, but perhaps it is better understood as a love letter — one from Leo to the man who taught the world that elegance is not about attention, but about affection.

Armani Fall/Winter 2026/27 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

The collection avoids spectacle. Instead, it returns to Armani’s earliest language: clean linen blazers, sculpted trousers, muted desert tones, and that unmistakable sense of ease. There are hints of mourning — a softness in the cut, a delicacy in the color gradients, as if the garments are woven with memory. Yet amid the restraint, there is light: glimpses of hope, renewal, and simple devotion.

Giorgio Armani 2025 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

In the end, Armani’s greatest creation may not have been a jacket or a silhouette, but a life lived alongside two people who shared his understanding of beauty — that quiet confidence and serenity born not from fame, but from love. The Spring 2026–2027 season stands as an eloquent testament to that belief: that love, like great design, endures through form, line, and time.

How African Style Shaped the Global Closet

Francesca Sterlacci - January 31, 2026 - Black History Month, Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion History

In celebration of Black History Month, I’m turning the spotlight on the incredible style, innovation, and cultural impact that Africa and African Americans have brought to the world of fashion — because, let’s be honest, the industry would be pretty dull without that brilliance.

African Prints

Vlisco African dashiki print. (Image credit: Perelman Museum, Philadelphia)

When someone says “African dress,” most of us instantly picture the dashiki—a fabulous, loose-fitting top that looks like it’s single-handedly keeping the color wheel in business. But here’s a twist: those vibrant prints you love didn’t actually start in Africa. Nope. They’ve got a global backstory spicier than a pot of jollof rice.

African prints, also known as wax prints, are the industrial descendants of ancient batik patterns—hand-drawn, hand-blocked, and hand-dyed designs that go all the way back to 8th-century China and India. By the 13th century, Java’s island artisans thought, “We can make this even better,” and refined the technique to perfection. Fast-forward a few hundred years, and two European companies—ABC (a British wax-print maker that migrated to Ghana) and Vlisco (yes, the Dutch got in on it too)—ended up creating a booming market for these prints in West Africa around 1867.Modern Wax Print by Vlisco. (Image credit: Perelman Museum, Philadelphia)

From there, the story only gets more stylish. African traders, especially powerhouse businesswomen lovingly called “Mama Benz” (because what else do you buy with print money but a Mercedes?), turned these patterns into cultural currency—each print carrying its own name, message, and mood.

Today, across the U.S. and beyond, African prints are proudly worn as bold symbols of heritage, identity, and style—and they continue to light up fashion runways worldwide, proving once again that a great print never goes out of season.

African Head Wraps

Jele Head Wrap (Photo credit: Oladimeji Odunsi)

One of Africa’s fiercest fashion exports? The head wrap—also known as the head tie or head scarf, depending on your mood (or the weather). Worn for everything from grocery runs to grand ceremonies, these headdresses are more than accessories—they’re statements, status symbols, and sometimes lifesavers on a bad hair day. Across the continent, they go by different names: the gele reigns supreme in West Africa, while in Southern Africa you’ll see the doek and duku adding flair and a healthy dose of attitude to everyday style.

Check out this cool YouTube video to learn how to tie 10 different variations of head wraps.

African Dress Symbolism Men’s agabada (Photo credit: Fikayo Aderoju) and Women’s gomesi (Image credit: mywedding.co.ug)

African clothing isn’t just about looking fabulous (though it certainly does that); it’s a full-on conversation in fabric form. Those bold patterns? They’re not random—they tell stories about faith, politics, and sometimes who you voted for. The colors are no fashion accident either: red brings drama as the color of death, green is basically nature’s fertility emoji, white keeps things pure and proper, and blue wears its heart on its sleeve as the color of love. And let’s not forget the regional wardrobes—West African men glide by in their majestic agbadas, while their East African counterparts keep it suave and breezy in kanzus. Forget designer labels—these styles are the heritage brand. For women, it’s the gomesi and the kanga (a colorful piece of printed cotton fabric with a border that is wrapped around the body).

African American Design Pioneers

Zelda Barbour Wynn Valdes

Zelda Barbour Wynn Valdes. (Image credit: blackthen.com)

Zelda Barbour Wynn Valdes wasn’t just a designer — she was a one-woman fashion revolution wrapped in satin and style. The first African American fashion and costume designer and the first Black designer to open her own shop in 1948, Valdes set up “Chez Zelda” right on Broadway in New York City. And her client list? A who’s who of mid‑century icons: Dorothy Dandridge, Josephine Baker, Marian Anderson, Ella Fitzgerald, Mae West, Ruby Dee, Eartha Kitt, and Sarah Vaughan — basically, if you could command a stage or a screen, you probably wore Zelda.

In the early 1950s, Life magazine dubbed Valdes the “Black Marilyn Monroe,” a title she earned not for acting but for her ability to sculpt curves into couture. Then in 1958, when Hugh Hefner needed someone to dream up the first Playboy Bunny costume, he called Zelda. Her original version? Taller ears, no frilly bow tie or cuffs — sleek, bold, and pure Valdes, before the Bunny hopped into pop‑culture history.

Ann Lowe

Ann Lowe. (Image credit: National Museum of African American History and Culture)

Ann Lowe, often recognized as the first prominent Black American fashion designer, created couture-level gowns for America’s social elite — including Jacqueline Kennedy’s iconic 1953 wedding dress. Despite her exceptional talent, wealthy clients frequently undervalued her work, haggling over prices and offering her only a fraction of what they would readily pay white designers or French couturiers. As a result, Lowe often bore significant financial losses on her commissions. The Kennedy wedding gown, in particular, proved disastrous: a plumbing leak destroyed the dress and all the bridal attendants’ gowns just ten days before the ceremony. Undeterred, Lowe and her team remade every piece at her own expense, a setback that cost her over $2,000 — a loss she never disclosed to the Auchincloss family. Despite her artistry and perseverance, her contributions remained largely uncredited for decades.

Willi Smith

Willi Smith and his model sister Toukie Smith. (Image credit: Cooper Hewitt)

In 1976, designer Willi Smith didn’t just launch a fashion label — he launched a movement when he created WilliWear. By the mid-1980s, he wasn’t just sketching; he was stacking — over $25 million in sales, to be exact. Smith earned his title as one of the most successful African American designers in fashion history, proving that great style does pay the bills.

Fast forward to 2020, when New York’s Cooper Hewitt Museum celebrated his genius with a retrospective exhibition titled Willi Smith: Street Couture — a fitting nod to the man who made downtown cool long before sneakers met the runway.

And here’s a fun personal plot twist: back in the 1970s, Willi himself rescued me from a cringe-worthy, tomato-red sunburn while I was roasting poolside (fast asleep) at the Taj Mahal Hotel in Bombay. Fashion savior by day, literal savior by pool — now that’s a full-service designer.

Tracy Reese

Tracy Reese. (Image credit: Dimitrios Kambouris)

Tracy Reese was breaking barriers before it was trending. As the first Black female designer to earn major recognition from the contemporary fashion world, she launched her namesake label back in 1998—when dial-up internet was still a thing. Now based in Detroit, Reese has leveled up with a fresh, ethically-minded brand called Hope for Flowers—because apparently designing fabulous, size-inclusive clothes and saving the planet is just another day at the office for her.

Virgil Abloh

Virgil Abloh 1980 -2023 (Image credit: Vogue.com)

Virgil Abloh was the rare kind of fashion designer who treated boundaries like optional accessories. Trained as an architect (which explains why his hoodies had structural integrity), he built empires instead of buildings—starting with Pyrex Vision in 2012 and leveling up to Off-White in 2013. Before long, he was directing menswear at Louis Vuitton, proving that streetwear could not only crash the gates of high fashion but also redecorate the place. Abloh wasn’t just blurring lines between fashion, music, and design—he was doodling new ones in Helvetica and adding zip ties for emphasis. His influence didn’t just shape wardrobes; it reshaped the very idea of what “luxury” even meant.

Christopher John Rogers

Christopher John Rogers. (Image credit: Forbes.com)

Christopher John Rogers is a Black American fashion designer from Baton Rouge, Louisiana, who basically took Crayola, opera costumes, and Southern church realness, put them in a blender, and called it pragmatic glamour. He launched his namesake label in 2016 and, in fashion years, went from “who’s that kid in the corner?” to “front‑row or bust” as one of New York’s most acclaimed young designers.

In 2019, he snatched the top prize at the 16th CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, officially joining the cool‑kids table alongside Proenza Schouler and Alexander Wang, but with way better color blocking. His client list reads like the Met Gala seating chart: Beyoncé, Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Lizzo, Michelle Obama, Zendaya, Tracee Ellis Ross, Gabrielle Union, Lil Nas X, and Kamala Harris have all stepped out in his work like walking exclamation points. In fact, Kamala Harris even chose a vivid purple Christopher John Rogers coat and dress for the 2021 inauguration, announcing to the world, “Yes, I’m making history—and I’m doing it in color.” Since then, he’s picked up the CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year award and become an LVMH Prize finalist, firmly locking in his status as one of contemporary

Summary

Black History Month offers a chance to foreground Africa and African American fashion designers. It has led to classroom and community programs that now integrate topics like Afrofuturist fashion, sustainable Black-led brands, and Black fashion “firsts,” helping students see fashion as a space of resistance, identity-building, and cultural storytelling.

Announcing Our Newest Lesson: Drafting a CLO 3D Women’s Trouser Block

Francesca Sterlacci - January 24, 2026 - 3D Design, 3D Fashion Design, CAD, New Lessons, New University of Fashion Lessons, Pattern Making, Technology

University of Fashion’s newest lesson Drafting a CLO 3D Women’s Trouser Block.

Are you a designer or pattern maker secretly side-eying the world of 3D pattern making, hoping it’ll just… go away? Tired of wrestling with pants patterns that fit your avatar about as well as a potato sack fits a flamingo? It’s time to level up! Our latest lesson shows you how to draft women’s trousers in CLO 3D using your avatar’s exact measurements—no tailor’s chalk, paper cuts, or caffeine-fueled meltdowns required. Pants that actually fit?

Yes, please.

And who doesn’t love a good freebie? To make your life (and your laptop) a little easier, we’re handing you two goodies: a downloadable PDF of our bespoke trouser formula and a CLO file with a ready-to-roll size 8 trouser block. Think of it as your digital starter kit—because great pants should cost you zero tears and zero dollars.

University of Fashion’s downloadable formula, block, measurement and calculations charts. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Our formula works for any set of women’s measurements, so you can create a perfect virtual fit for everyone from size 00 to plus. Once you’ve got your block, you’ll be turning out new trouser designs faster than you can say “grainline.”

Your CLO 3D Instructor

Lane Odom, creator of UoF’s 4-part CLO 3D lesson series (Image credit: Lane Odom)

Lane is a proud graduate of Johns Hopkins University and Parsons—and a bona fide CLO 3D wizard. After launching his own capsule collection, Vane, in 2024, he’s continued to support emerging designers with top-notch technical design services. He’s also the creative force behind our four-part CLO 3D lesson series, where his precision meets digital flair.

CLO 3D Series

Lane breaks it all down — starting with how to purchase CLO 3D software and moving into the magic of drafting your own slopers from scratch, perfectly tailored to your avatar’s measurements. These are rare gems in the 3D fashion world, and we’ve bundled them into a complete learning journey.

Our CLO 3D series includes: Introduction to CLO 3D, How to Construct a Garment with Existing 3D Patterns, How to Draft a CLO 3D Women’s Bodice Block, and our newest addition, Drafting a CLO 3D Women’s Trouser Block.

By the end of the series, you’ll have the digital skills and confidence to bring your garment ideas to life—no muslin required.

BUTTONED UP: The Surprisingly Wild World of Buttons

Francesca Sterlacci - January 17, 2026 - Bespoke Tailoring, Sewing, Tailoring

Buttons come in all kinds of shapes: flat, rimmed, dome, half ball, full ball, tubular, triangular, even square. Other types of buttons go by the names: French bevel, shank, fisheye, slotted well, English rim and double dome. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Buttons: Tiny Heroes of Fashion

Let’s be honest—most of us never give buttons a second thought. They’re just… there, doing their tiny, thankless job of keeping our clothes from falling off. But behind every crisp shirt and snug waistband lies a world of button drama you probably never knew existed! From their materials and sizes to the mysterious art of sewing them on, buttons are more complex than you’d expect.

In fact, they are SEW important that we decided that buttons deserve their moment in the spotlight. Yep, we went there—an entire 7-part series dedicated to the unsung heroes of fashion: buttons and buttonholes. This blog is a teaser for what you’ll learn at UoF about these Mighty Midgets.

There are two basic types of buttons: Holed and Shank. A holed button may have two, three or four holes. A Shank button has one loop on the back. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Button Materials – Buyer Beware

Buttons can be made from just about anything the imagination can dream up, however, you must remember that clothes containing buttons will need to be either laundered or dry cleaned and therefore buttons should be tested. Sometimes button color can bleed onto fabric, or buttons crack during the drycleaning process or even melt when hit with a hot iron. Therefore, always test your button choice.

Examples of natural material buttons (Image credit: Sewing: Beginner Techniques book by Francesca Sterlacci, Laurence King Publishing).

Buttons are made from natural or synthetic materials — seashells, coconut shells — or synthetics like your grandma’s old bingo chips if inspiration strikes — but I repeat… your garment will eventually need to face the horrors of a washing machine or dry cleaner. That’s when untested buttons start to rebel. Colors bleed, plastics melt faster than an ice cream cone in Palm Springs, and cracks appear where creative genius once shone. Moral of the story? Don’t trust a button until it’s passed the laundry test.

Examples of synthetic material buttons (Image credit: Sewing: Beginner Techniques book by Francesca Sterlacci, Laurence King Publishing).

Button Sewing Tools

When it comes to stitching buttons, a little planning goes a long way, unless you’re into the kind of chaos that has buttons flying off in public. You’ll need to decide whether to use standard sewing thread or the heavyweight champion of the thread world. The latter is perfect for those serious coats and jackets that don’t mess around, because nobody wants a button giving up mid-winter.

Examples of thread detangling tools (Image credit: University of Fashion).

To keep your thread from turning into a rebellious knot monster, give it a quick spa treatment first — run it across a little beeswax or Thread Magic to smooth and strengthen it. For bonus points, press it with a warm iron to melt away any sticky residue (and to remind it who’s boss).

Choose a #5 Quilting/Betweens needle for button-sewing, it is shorter and easier to use than a #5 Sharps needle. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

When it comes to sewing on buttons, reach for a #5 Quilting/Betweens needle, it’s the compact sports car of needles: shorter, zippier, and way easier to handle than the longer #5 Sharps when navigating those tiny stitches.

Button-Sewing Strategies

You’d think sewing on a button would be a five-minute job. Ha! Think again. A four-hole button is basically a choose-your-own-adventure story in miniature — do you go vertical, horizontal, zigzag, or full drama with an X?

4-Hole Button-sewing Patterns: Vertical, Horizontal, Zigzag and X (Image credit: University of Fashion).

And if you really want to show off, grab a contrast thread so everyone knows your button isn’t just functional… it’s a fashion statement.

Examples of contrast thread for buttonholes & button-stitching (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Button Sizing

Back in the eighteenth century, German button makers got fancy with their measurements and came up with the term for measuring buttons, “ligne”. The idea was simple — if you fold a round candle wick flat (because apparently, everyone was doing that in their spare time), voilà — that’s your unit of measurement! One ligne equals 1/40th of an inch, or roughly .025 of an inch (.635 mm) if you’re more of a math person than a candle-folding enthusiast. Today, buttons are measured using a gauge device or a chart.

Examples of button chart and gauge devices for measuring button sizes. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

University of Fashion’s 7-part Button Series

Ready to dive into the riveting world of buttons and buttonholes? Discover why size does matter, how to choose the perfect button, how to line them up like a pro, and the surprisingly dramatic difference between sewing them by hand and by machine—all in our unmissable series!

Click the links below to view our lesson previews on buttons & buttonholes or sign up to UoF and see the full video library of these and 545 other fashion how-to videos:

Intro to Buttons & Buttonholes

Sewing Buttons: Shank & 4-Hole Thread Shank

Handmade Bound Buttonhole

Machine-Made Buttonholes: Straight & Keyhole

Handsewn Straight Buttonhole

Handsewn Rounded Buttonhole

Handsewn Keyhole Buttonhole

Can You Speak Fashion?

Francesca Sterlacci - January 10, 2026 - Current Topics in Fashion, Designer FashionSpeak, fashion Terminology, Fashion Tips

Learning to “speak fashion”

Fashion is a language, and like any language, it has its own vocabulary. Without understanding the terms, even the most creative ideas can get lost in translation.

University of Fashion is proud to announce their newly expanded, FREE fashion terminology section. Now, our A-Z fashion dictionary includes specific words and terms used in each of our 550+ lessons on the website. And with over 3,000 fashion terms, you’ll become fashion fluent in no time!

When Talent Isn’t Enough

This is a story about Maya, an aspiring designer who learned that being talented isn’t enough and that knowing fashion terminology isn’t just about sounding smart, it’s about building credibility, communicating clearly, and truly becoming part of the fashion world.

Maya learned the hard way that in fashion, words are as sharp as scissors.

On her first real internship at a midtown design studio, she stood in a flurry of muslin, markers and caffeine while her creative director rapid‑fired instructions. “Maya, on look 3 change the skirt from accordion pleats to side pleats. On look 4, change the dress neckline to a portrait collar, and on look 5 replace the back slit with a vent.”

Everyone around her nodded. Maya froze. She knew what an accordion pleated skirt looked like, but side pleats? No. She had absolutely had no idea what a portrait collar was and didn’t know the difference between a back slit and a vent. She’d drawn and illustrated dozens of clothes before, but now each word felt like a code she didn’t have the key to. She scribbled frantically in her notebook, hoping no one would notice the gap between her talent and her vocabulary.

Maya was embarrassed. She had always thought that creativity was enough. But now she saw that fashion is built on shared knowledge. Terms like “portrait collar,” “Peter Pan collar,” “raglan sleeve,” “bias cut,” and “French seam” aren’t just jargon—they’re the building blocks of design. They allow designers to communicate precisely, to collaborate effectively, and to bring ideas to life without confusion.

The Importance of Words

Maya spent the next few weeks studying fashion terminology. She learned that a portrait collar is a high, structured collar that frames the face and that a back vent is a tailored detail where the underlying seam allowances overlap compared to just a back slit. She also learned that there are many different types of side pleat configurations. It dawned on her the real meaning of the term “fashionspeak”.

The Lesson

Maya learned that fashion terminology isn’t just about sounding professional. It’s about understanding the craft, communicating clearly, and building credibility. Without it, even the most talented designer can be misunderstood. But with it, the possibilities are endless.

Quick Access to Fashion Terminology

As she walked through the studio, Maya overheard a new intern struggling to explain a design. She smiled and offered to help. “Let me introduce you to University of Fashion’s free A–Z dictionary of fashion terminology.”

image of UoF's A-Z Dictionary Page University of Fashion A-Z Terminology link

More Fashion Fluency

Want to sharpen your fashion IQ and drop terminology like a seasoned front-row regular? Consider adding the Historical Dictionary of the Fashion Industry by Francesca Sterlacci and Joanne Arbuckle to your library; it is the kind of reference that makes your vocabulary as polished as your tailoring.

Points of Perfection: The Designer’s Tiny Powerhouses

Francesca Sterlacci - January 5, 2026 - Fashion Tips, Sewing

University of Fashion’s all-inclusive lesson on sewing needles, pins, thimbles & pincushions. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

A Love Letter to Sewing Tools

Small but mighty, pins and needles are the divas of the sewing world—tiny, pointy, and always ready for drama. While AI is out there trying to take over the planet, these little metal sticks have been stabbing fabric (and fingers) into submission for centuries. They’re the unsung heroes of fashion, holding everything together while designers take the credit. So today, I’m dedicating this blog to the real MVPs—those sharp, shiny troublemakers no sewist can live without.

Pins, needles, thimbles and pincushions are the silent partners in every designer’s creation, the instruments that connect imagination to material form. Understanding them is one of the foundational steps in mastering the art and craft of fashion design.

A Stitch Through Time

Examples of early bone needles. (Image credit: Sewing Techniques for Beginners by Francesca Sterlacci)

The Oldest Art Form

The story of needles and pins traces back to the Paleolithic period when early sewing needles were made from bone, ivory, or wood, carefully carved to pierce animal hides with animal sinew (fibrous tissue that joins muscle to bone) used as thread. As man learned to use metals, needles gradually came to be made from copper (7000 BCE), bronze (2500 BCE) and iron (1200 BCE). By the 14th century, steel needles became standard, but it wasn’t until 1755 that the first patent was awarded for a needle with an eye. Each evolution of these small instruments mirrored the development of human ingenuity and craftsmanship.

Knowing Your Tools: The Professional Edge

Fashion professionals know that mastery comes not just from creativity, but from understanding materials and tools. The right combination of needle, pin, thimble and thread can determine the difference between frustration and finesse. For example, a Glovers needle with its sharp, tri-point tip makes hand-sewing leather & leather-like materials a breeze.

A Glovers needle for hand-sewing leather & leather-like materials. (Image credit: Artisan Supplies)

The Needle: Precision in Motion

When you take the time to learn about your sewing tools, their purposes, care, and selection, you don’t just improve your craftsmanship, you join a lineage of makers who have built entire wardrobes, traditions, and stories from the simplest of beginnings: a piece of fabric, a few pins, and the perfect needle.

Hand-sewing needle anatomy. (Image credit: Sewing Techniques for Beginners by Francesca Sterlacci)

A sewing needle might appear simple, but its design is the result of centuries of refinement. Every part has a purpose—the eye that holds the thread, the shaft that passes through fabric, and the point determines how it penetrates material. The diameter, the length, and the eye of the needle all play a role when choosing the best needle for your project.

Hand-sewing needles come in many forms:

- Sharps needles – for general hand stitching and fine dressmaking
- Betweens/Quilting needles – for quick, tight stitches
- Beading needles – long, fine needles used for beads, sequins and basting
- Embroidery/Crewel needles – with larger eyes for thicker threads
- Tapestry needles – with blunt tips for working through open weaves
- Glover’s needles – with triangular points for leather & leather-like materials
- Milliners/Straw needles – a long hand-sewing needles used for gathering, smocking, basting & millinery work
- Chenille needles – similar to tapestry needles but with very sharp points
- Darning needles – also known as cotton darners for mending
- Appliqué needles – used in patchwork & appliquéing
- Yarn darners – thick needle with blunt tip for mending and joining knit & crochet pieces together
- Upholstery needles – long, heavy needles, straight or curved for upholstery work
- Sailmaker needles – similar to Glovers needles but the triangular point extends further up the shaft
- Doll needles – the longest needle with a long eye fused in doll-making, soft sculpture and upholstery

#7 Sharps — The most common hand-sewing needle. (Image credit: John James)

Sharps are a general-purpose sewing needle. They are the most common needle used by dressmakers around the world. Their short round eyes are easier to thread and provide added strength during sewing.

The general rule is — the bigger the number the finer and shorter the needle.

Sharps in sizes 2, 3 and 4 are used for general sewing on medium to heavy fabrics. These sizes have a larger eye and therefore are easier to thread. Sharps in sizes 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 are the most popular within the sharps community and are commonly used for general sewing on light to medium fabrics. Sharps size 10, 11 and 12 are often referred to as the ‘petite needle’ because they are very fine and short with smaller eyes than their counterparts within the Sharps family. These needles are ideal for creating small delicate stitches and are quick and easy to use, a delight for the experienced sewer.

Lockstitch Sewing Machine Needles: Domestic & Industrial

Machine needles are even more specialized than hand-sewing needles and the best way to learn about them is to view our video, Intro to Needles, Pins, Thimbles & Pincushions. Since sewing machine needles are available for domestics (home sewing machines), as well as industrial machines, there are many more things to consider when choosing the correct needle, such as needle class, cataloging system (European metric sizing (NM) or American sizing), needle point and color-coding system. Selecting the correct sewing machine needle for your machine, fabric type and thread weight, ensures clean, strong stitches and helps prevent skipped stitches or damage to your material.

Anatomy of a sewing machine needle (Image credit: Sewing Techniques for Beginners by Francesca Sterlacci)

A sewing machine needle is made up of several parts. The shank is the top of the needle, which is inserted into the machine. The shaft is the body of the needle below the shank, and the groove is the slit that runs down one side of the needle to its eye. The scarf is an indentation above the eye, on the opposite side of the needle to the groove. A long scarf helps eliminate skipped stitches by allowing the bobbin hook to loop the thread more easily. The eye is the hole through which the thread passes, and the point is the needle tip below the eye. The point of the needle is shaped to provide the most suitable penetration of the material being sewn, according to its nature and the desired stitch effect. Domestic-needle shanks are flat on one side, while industrial needle shanks are fully round and slightly longer than domestic needles.

The lower the sewing machine needle number, the finer the needle — the lighter the fabric weight. The higher the needle size, the larger the needle — the heavier the fabric weight.

Types of Domestic & Industrial sewing machine needles. (Image credit: Sewing Techniques for Beginners by Francesca Sterlacci)

Types of lockstitch sewing machine needles include:

- Universal needles – handle everyday fabrics
- Ballpoint needles – slide between knit fibers without damaging them
- Denim needles – puncture heavy fabrics cleanly
- Embroidery needles – have larger eyes and special coatings for decorative threads

Pins: The Designer’s/Sewist’s Invisible Hand

Pins are the first point of connection between a designer’s vision and physical fabric. They shape fabric drape, hold patterns in place, and guide the construction process before a single stitch is made. Whether they are used for draping, pattern making or sewing, choosing the appropriate pin head, thickness and tip is always important.

Anatomy of a straight pin. (Image credit: Sewing Techniques for Beginners by Francesca Sterlacci)

Types of pins include:

Dressmaker pins – used in draping, sewing and pattern making.
Flathead pins – good for open weave fabrics because the large flat head keeps them from getting lost in the work.
Glass – head pins are favored for their heat-resistant tips, ideal when pressing.
Silk pins – glide smoothly through delicate fabrics without leaving visible holes.
Ballpoint pins – made for knits.
Quilting pins – longer and designed to grip multiple fabric layers easily.
#17 Dressmaker straight pins are ideal for draping, pattern making and sewing projects. (Image credit: Sewing Techniques for Beginners by Francesca Sterlacci)

Good-quality pins make a noticeable difference in precision work. They should slide smoothly and resist bending—small signs of craftsmanship that make large impacts in final quality.

The Companions: Thimble and Pincushion

No discussion of needles and pins is complete without mentioning their essential accessories—the thimble and pincushion. A thimble protects your finger as you push a needle through stubborn fabrics. They come in metal, leather, and silicone variations, each offering different levels of comfort and control. Seasoned sewists often have a favorite they can’t work without.

Assorted thimbles-Top left to right: domed (brass), flat top, open top and band thimble. (Image credit: Sewing Techniques for Beginners by Francesca Sterlacci)

The most popular models with dressmakers are dome-top thimbles, while flat-top thimbles are used by quilters, and open-top and band thimbles are preferred by tailors. Thimbles consist of nickel-plated steel with dimpled surfaces that “grab” the end of a needle, providing the leverage for it to be pushed easily through the fabric.

Pincushions

Meanwhile, the pincushion serves both function and charm. Beyond keeping needles organized, it protects their sharpness by providing a soft resting place. Traditional tomato-shaped pincushions often include an attached strawberry stuffed with emery—a fine abrasive that cleans and sharpens needle tips. A magnetic pin holder serves as storage and for gathering up pins that have fallen. A wrist pincushion is very convenient especially when draping and available in pincushion or magnetic models.

Assorted pincushion options: Small & large tomato, magnetic cup & wristband. Image credit: Sewing Techniques for Beginners by Francesca Sterlaci)

Fashion professionals know that mastery comes not just from creativity, but from understanding materials and tools. The right combination of needle, pin, thimble, and thread can determine the difference between frustration and finesse.

When you take the time to learn about your sewing tools—their purposes, care, and selection—you don’t just improve your craftsmanship. You join a lineage of makers who have built entire wardrobes, traditions, and stories from the simplest of beginnings: a piece of fabric, a few pins, and the perfect needle.

For more on sewing tools get our companion book, Sewing Techniques for Beginners. It is filled with tips and tricks, and follows along, step-by-step, with our videos:

Available on Amazon: (Image credit: Sewing Techniques for Beginners by Francesca Sterlacci)

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BUTTONED UP: The Surprisingly Wild World of Buttons

Can You Speak Fashion?

Learning to “speak fashion”

When Talent Isn’t Enough

The Importance of Words

The Lesson

Quick Access to Fashion Terminology

More Fashion Fluency

Points of Perfection: The Designer’s Tiny Powerhouses

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