University of Fashion Blog

Announcing Our Newest Lesson: Drafting a V-Neck Knit Top – 2 variations

Francesca Sterlacci - July 25, 2026 - cut & sew knits, How It's Made, Knits, New University of Fashion Lessons, Pattern Making

The newest lesson in our Cut & Sew knit drafting series, Drafting a V-neck Knit Top – 2 Variations. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

A V neckline creates a bold, angular break at the top of the garment, bossily redirecting the eye straight down the center front and tricking it into seeing a longer neck and torso than higher necklines like crew, scoop, or square ever will—basically the visual equivalent of standing a little taller without having to enter tense diplomatic talks with your shoe collection.

This lesson new lesson is your backstage pass to drafting a V‑neck knit top in two flavors: one sleek, clean-finished V, and one snazzy mitered V-neckband for when you’re feeling extra sporty.

Reading the V-Neck Sketch

Planning the V-neckline: neck drop and distance away from the neck. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

You’ll use the fashion sketches like a GPS, zeroing in on details such as how deep the front V drops and exactly how far the neckline scoots in from the shoulder/neck intersection.

Reading the V-Neck with Band Sketch

Planning the V-neckline with neck & armhole band finish. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

When you graduate to the V-neckline with a neck and armhole band finish, you’re basically signing up for a tiny knit-fabric science experiment. You still have to plot your neck drop and the distance from the base of the neck like a responsible pattern engineer, but now there’s extra drama: how wide should those neck and armhole bands be, and are they going to behave nicely or stretch out like overcooked spaghetti the minute you stitch them down?

Stretching the neckband a bit as it is guided along the neckline draft. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

To create the pattern neck & armhole band you must cut a trial band whose length equals the total of your front and back neckline, measured on the cross grain, and whose height is double your desired finished neckband width, cut on the length grain. Then fold the band in half and stretch that brave little test band along the drafted neckline, and reduce the band so that the band is a wee bit smaller than the paper draft. You’ll do the same for the armhole band. This helps stabilize the neckline and armhole and provides a clean finish.

Finale

Drafting a V‑neck knit top in two irresistible flavors—one smooth and sophisticated, the other boasting a snazzy mitered neckband—is basically your VIP all-access pass to the secret world of cut & sew knits. Think of it as fashion’s version of discovering the magician’s trick… but with fabric, not rabbits.

What I Learned After 25+ Years as a Fashion College Professor — Part One

Francesca Sterlacci - July 18, 2026 - Costume Exhibitions, Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Art, Fashion College Admissions Process, Fashion Education, Fashion Exhibitions, Fashion History, Fashion Illustration, Fashion Lectures, Fashion School, Sustainability

After decades in fashion education, I often find myself reflecting on what truly matters for aspiring designers. When considering new topics to share with our community of subscribers and followers, one idea stood out: why not pass along the most valuable lessons I’ve learned over the past 25+ years?

During my time at the Fashion Institute of Technology—17 years teaching in the classroom and 3 years serving as Chair of the Fashion Design department and then 6 years teaching graduate level fashion design at the Academy of Art —I had a front-row seat to students’ journeys into the fashion industry. I saw firsthand how they navigated everything from the application process to making the most of their education once accepted.

In this two-part series, Part One focuses on guiding prospective students through selecting and applying to fashion colleges. Part Two will shift to supporting educators, offering insights on how to help students thrive and create a meaningful, positive experience once they begin their fashion school journey.

How to Pick a Fashion College

UoF’s free list of global fashion schools — 2-year and 4-year fashion school options. (Image credit: University of Fashion.com)

Choosing the right fashion college is one of the most important decisions in your journey. As you explore your options, take time to ask yourself a few key questions:

How far from home am I willing to go for school?
Should I pursue a two-year program or commit to a four-year degree?
Which schools offer the strongest programs for my specific interests? For instance, if you’re passionate about costume design, which colleges specialize in that field?
What famous fashion designers graduated from this college?
What are the admission requirements, and can I realistically meet them? Consider factors like minimum GPA, standardized test scores, and, most importantly, portfolio expectations.
What is the tuition and do they offer scholarships and/or financing options?

Once you’ve researched and narrowed down the schools that you’re excited about, the next step is applying. Be sure to schedule visits to your top choices whenever possible. Walking the campus and experiencing the environment firsthand can help you picture your life there. For example, some students accepted to FIT later realized that living in a fast-paced city like New York wasn’t the right fit for them.

The Fashion College Application Process

University of Fashion’s lesson, Portfolio Tips for Fashion College Admissions (Image credit: University of Fashion)

In a recent conversation with Tina, a Chicago-based high school senior applying to fashion schools, she described the process as anxiety-producing and overwhelming. Her high school did not offer sewing classes, and its art program lacked guidance on building a fashion portfolio, leaving her to navigate the requirements on her own. Many of the schools she applied to expected both sewn garments and a strong fashion illustration portfolio. A surprise since wasn’t that the whole reason she should go to a fashion school in the first place?

Fortunately, Tina had an early advantage. During her sophomore year, her aunt gifted her a subscription to University of Fashion. Through its lessons she learned how to sew, draw fashion figures, and develop a cohesive portfolio. The platform also provided valuable resources, including a global directory of fashion schools, guidance on crafting a compelling admissions essay, and insight into what makes a portfolio stand out. The lesson, Portfolio Tips for Fashion College Admissions is an amazing guide that takes you through the whole process and is taught by a current FIT professor.

Tina also discovered that expectations vary by school. Some programs require original fashion design work, while others accept fine art pieces as part of the portfolio.

As applicants prepare their materials, it is important to ask:

Does my personal statement clearly express my passion for fashion?
Am I knowledgeable about the fashion history, current industry trends, and key sectors such as couture, luxury, and sustainable fashion?

Fashion college admissions teams want to see that applicants are fully committed and genuinely invested in pursuing fashion.

The Dos & Don’t of the Fashion College Essay

Your portfolio matters, but your essay should reveal who you are as an artist. Some schools require an artist statement—use it to explain your work, philosophy, aesthetic, and point of view. Colleges are looking for fresh, exciting, and innovative work. Show what makes your voice meaningful in fashion. Read the essay requirements carefully, since they want you to answer the question, not just talk about what you want to talk about.

Essay Dos

From UoF’s costume history lesson series, 100 Years of Fashion Rebels & Revolutionaries – Part 1. (Image credit) University of Fashion).

Immerse yourself in fashion—costume history, magazines, blogs, fashion shows and exhibitions—and stay aware of broader culture, from museums to pop and emerging artists. Know key designers, both established and new, and understand enough fashion history to reference it thoughtfully (e.g., Chanel’s legacy, the New Look, punk and grunge).

Write from a clear sense of the impact you want to make in the industry. You can also explore how the internet and digital culture are reshaping fashion, from early adopters to the contrast with traditional, big-budget fashion houses.

Essay Don’ts

Avoid clichéd essays, such as claiming you want to be a designer because you dress well or because you expect to inherit a family fashion business. Be cautious with questions about negative work experiences or strengths and weaknesses; always balance any weakness with a corresponding strength. For example, missing deadlines can be framed as a result of your commitment to producing high-quality work.

Take your essay seriously. Write concisely, avoid repetition, and remember that longer is not always better. Have a teacher or mentor review your work and allow time for revision—strong writing is a process. An A.I. essay is always discoverable.

The 5 Essential Principles for a Great Portfolio

Example of a fashion college admissions portfolio — including an inspiration/mood image, fashion sketches, flat sketches, neat fabric swatches and clean & clear signage. (Image credit: Nancy Kwan for University of Fashion)

When preparing your portfolio, regardless of the school you’re applying to, there are five essential principles to keep in mind.

First, ensure your portfolio feels cohesive, with a clear and consistent visual direction, starting with your inspiration.

Second, presentation matters—avoid anything that appears sloppy or smudged. If you include fabric swatches, they should be cleanly cut, properly labeled, and thoughtfully aligned with your designs.

Example of a fashion college admissions portfolio — including an inspiration/mood image, stylized fashion sketches, neatly cut fabric swatches and clean & clear signage. (Image credit: Ziyon Gong for University of Fashion)

Third, avoid relying on croquis templates from books or the internet. Develop your own sketching style so it reflects your unique design voice and aligns with your aesthetic.

Fourth, focus on technical accuracy in your sketches. Demonstrate your understanding of construction by clearly indicating details such as darts and garment openings.

How to Feature Your Garment Designs

Examples of how to creatively feature your garment designs. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

If you are including sewn examples of your work, create the best possible format for doing so. For example, shoot the garments on a model, then artfully place them on a background listing the design description and fabric choice. Or exhibit them artfully on a dress form. You can kill your portfolio with images that you haven’t spent time on. Professionalism matters.

In conclusion, invest the time to curate a visually compelling portfolio that is innovative, forward-thinking, and an authentic reflection of your passion for fashion. A thoughtfully crafted presentation will resonate with any admissions team. Aim for a portfolio that clearly communicates creativity, dedication, and the promise that you will represent their institution with distinction.

Sleeve Mastery: The Architecture of a Perfect Fitting Sleeve

Francesca Sterlacci - July 11, 2026 - Pattern Making, Sleeve Designs

Drafting a Straight Sleeve Sloper lesson from University of Fashion. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Drafting a Sleeve

If you’ve ever tried to sew a sleeve and thought, “How hard could it be?”—welcome to one of the great plot twists of garment making. Drafting, fitting, and setting a sleeve can make all the difference between “loving-hands-at-home” and “couture quality”.

UoF’s Sleeve Measurement Chart assists in sleeve drafting: Suit Sleeve from Measurements lesson (Image credit: University of Fashion)

It all begins with sleeve drafting, which hinges on one thing: accurate body measurements (yes, the tape measure matters more than optimism) and/or by using measurements from our sleeve size charts.

UoF’s Women’s Straight Sleeve Measurement Chart for sizes 2-16 from our drafting a Straight Sleeve Sloper lesson. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Planning Sleeve Ease

UoF’s process of planning sleeve ease stitches from our lesson Mounting & Fitting a Suit Jacket Sleeve .(Image credit: University of Fashion)

Then comes sleeve ease—the secret sauce. Too much, and your sleeve puffs like it has opinions. Too little, and it refuses to cooperate. Fun fact: the thinner the fabric, the less ease you need. Fabric has feelings, apparently.

Gathering the sleeve shirring from the underside of the sleeve. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Gathering the sleeve cap shirring is an art form. Most of the shirring will remain in the upper quadrant of the sleeve cap and the shirring stitches are pulled from the underside of the sleeve, from notch to notch. Fun tip: use your fingernails to distribute and “scratch” the shirring into place.

In our lessons on drafting both a straight and suit sleeve, we walk you through the process step by step—no guesswork, no drama. Well…less drama.

Setting a Sleeve

Our instructor points to problematic uneven sleeve gathers. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Then comes the real adventure: setting the sleeve into the armhole. Ever had gathers that all migrate to one spot? Or ended up with a surprise pleat that you weren’t expecting? We’ve been there.

Our lesson on mounting & fitting a suit jacket sleeve, you learn how to gather the sleeve cap smoothly from notch to notch, how to distribute that ease evenly and then how to massage the seam allowance into the sleeve cap to create a rounded sleeve header.

Mounting a Jacket Sleeve

instructor demonstrating how to add additional cap width.

Adding more sleeve cap and width to a suit sleeve. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

For jacket sleeves, once you have pinned your suit sleeve into the jacket’s armhole you must test it on a dress form to determine whether there is enough cap width, that the sleeve doesn’t sit away from the body at the wrist and whether the jacket’s grainline is in line with the side seam of the dress form. You will need to make adjustments, as needed.

Checking that the sleeve grainline is aligned with the side seam. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Once you’ve mastered our sleeve basics, you’ll be able to move onto our other sleeve drafting lessons.

University of Fashion’s Sleeve Design Series:

UoF’s sleeve design lesson series. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

The Art Behind Fashion Drawing from a Live Model

Francesca Sterlacci - July 4, 2026 - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Art, Fashion Illustration, Fashion Tips, Illustration

From University of Fashion’s lesson – Model Drawing: Non-Classic Silhouettes & Poses. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Fashion model drawing is often misunderstood as simply sketching what you see. In reality, it is a disciplined process of interpretation, structure, and intention. When working from a live model, you are not just copying a body—you are translating form, movement, and design into a visual language that communicates clothing.

Understanding ProportionMapping the 9 ½ head fashion pose from UoF’s lesson Model Drawing: Fashion Proportion & Movement. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

One of the first principles to understand is proportion. In fashion illustration, we commonly use the 9½-head figure, an elongated version of the human body that enhances elegance and emphasizes the garment. This is not about realism; it is about idealization. The extended proportions create space for design and movement, allowing the clothing to take center stage.

Mapping the Action Line, Center Front & Balance LineMapping the action line, center front and balance line from UoF’s lesson Model Drawing: Fashion Proportion & Movement. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

From there, you begin with the action line—the visual spine of the pose. This line captures the energy and flow of the model and sets the tone for the entire drawing. Supporting this is the balance line, which ensures that your figure feels grounded, even in dynamic poses. You will also establish the center front line, a critical guide that helps you understand how the body—and therefore the garment—turns in space.

Gesture DrawingMapping the gesture from UoF’s lesson Model Drawing: Fashion Proportion & Movement. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Gesture drawing becomes your foundation. It is fast, expressive, and focused on movement rather than detail. A strong gesture captures life in just a few lines. Without it, even the most detailed rendering will feel stiff.

Cylindrical PerspectiveMapping the cylindrical perspective from UoF’s lesson Model Drawing: Fashion Proportion & Movement. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Another essential concept is cylindrical perspective. The human body is not flat; it exists in three dimensions. Limbs, the torso, and even the neck should be understood as forms wrapping around an axis. Thinking in cylinders allows you to correctly place contours, seams, and shadows, giving your drawing depth and realism.

Pose vs Garment SilhouetteUnderstanding pose choice based on garment silhouette from UoF’s lesson Model Drawing: Various Poses for Different Silhouettes. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Equally important is the silhouette. The shape of the clothing—whether it clings tightly to the body or drapes loosely—dictates how the figure should be posed. This is where many beginners make a critical mistake: they choose a pose first, often inspired by a magazine image, and then try to fit their design into it. This approach rarely works.

In fashion drawing, the design must come first. The pose is not arbitrary—it is a tool to showcase the garment.

The Form-Fitting PoseFor a form-fitting silhouette the pose should support and reveal the contours of the body. From UoF’s lesson Model Drawing: Various Poses for Different Silhouettes. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

For example, if you are designing a form-fitting outfit, the pose should support and reveal the contours of the body. A stance where the legs form a wide triangle would disrupt the line and obscure the garment’s shape.

From UoF’s lesson Model Drawing: Pant Poses. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

On the other hand, if you are designing wide-leg pants, that same triangular stance could enhance the volume and movement of the fabric, creating a casual and relaxed effect.

Evening Wear & Tailored Silhouette PosesFrom UoF’s lesson Model Drawing: Evening & Tailored Garments (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Every decision you make—from proportion to pose—should serve the clothing. For example, an evening wear pose should be a dramatic, exaggerated pose, with an elongated neck and perhaps a back view that features a low back neckline. The goal is not to create an interesting figure, but to create a compelling presentation of your design.

When you begin to think this way, your drawings shift from sketches into intentional fashion illustrations. You are no longer just observing—you are designing with purpose.

University of Fashion’s Model Drawing Lesson SeriesFor more on drawing from a real-life model, view our entire Model Drawing lesson series, taught by Richard Rosenfeld. Richard has taught fashion illustration at Parsons and at FIT for 30+ years and is the Master!

Announcing Our Newest Lesson: Drafting a Turtleneck Knit Top – 2 Variations

Francesca Sterlacci - June 27, 2026 - cut & sew knits, How It's Made, Knits, New Lessons, New University of Fashion Lessons, Pattern Making

UoF’s latest lesson, Drafting a Turtleneck Knit Top – 2 Variations, part of a cut & sew knit-drafting series. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Today’s lesson is all about the mighty turtleneck — the fashion world’s version of a warm neck hug. We’ll be drafting not one, but two variations: one with a neckline seam (for those who like a bit of drama) and one that’s all-in-one (for the no-fuss minimalists). By the end, you’ll know exactly how to decode a turtleneck sketch like a pro.

Reading the Seamed Turtleneck Knit Top Sketch

First things first. Start by analyzing the sketch, in this case, the turtleneck with the neckline seam. Determine crucial details such as the front neck drop, how far that neckline runs from shoulder to neck, the center back drop, and of course, the turtleneck height. Because yes, in fashion, a few millimeters can mean the difference between “chic Audrey Hepburn” and “help, I can’t breathe!”

Reading the All-in-One Turtleneck Knit Top Sketch

Analyze the all-in-one turtleneck sketch for proportion and measurements. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

When planning your all-in-one turtleneck knit top, it’s time for some big decisions. First up: How tall will your turtleneck stand? Are you going for elegant-and-refined or full-on “I’m hiding from humanity” height? Next, check if your fabric stretches enough to slip over your head—without ripping seams or your pride. If your fabric’s on the stubborn side, congratulations: you’ve just earned yourself a zipper at the back! Just know that with a zipper, the turtleneck won’t slouch dreamily—it’ll stand more like a soldier on duty. Finally, measure how far that neckline travels from shoulder to neck and how much the center back dips—because even turtlenecks like to keep their proportions in check.

Do You Have Your Stretch Degree?

If you haven’t already mastered the mysterious math of stretch ratios, check out our lessons Introduction to Knit Fabrics and Knit Fabric Principles. Because when your fabric bounces back like an overcaffeinated bungee cord, you’d better plan your design details accordingly.

Finale

In the end, designing your turtleneck is all about balance—between comfort and drama, structure and ease. Whether you choose a sleek, stand-up collar or a cozy, fold-over style, remember that every decision shapes both the look and the feel of your finished piece. After all, a well-planned turtleneck doesn’t just frame your face—it tells the world exactly how you’d like to be seen.

So, what is a Full Bust Adjustment?

Francesca Sterlacci - June 20, 2026 - Full Bust Adjustment (FBA), Pattern Making, Plus Sizes

In pattern making terms, a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) is a modification that adds extra width and length over the bust area, so a garment fits a fuller bust without changing the fit at the shoulders, neckline, back, or waist. Instead of simply “sizing up” the entire pattern, you surgically add space where the body actually needs it, keeping the rest of the garment proportional and polished.

Most commercial patterns are drafted for a B-cup block, which means anyone with a fuller bust often sees drag lines, gaping armholes, pulling at the front opening, or a hem that hikes up in front.

Learn How to Pattern a Full Bust Adjustment

A torso sloper with a front side seam dart and back neck dart is used for a full bust adjustment. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

University of Fashion’s Full Bust Adjustment Lesson

Our Full Bust Adjustment lesson is taught by Martha Palaza, a fit expert who has conducted fit workshops throughout the Boston area. In her lesson for UoF, Martha demonstrates how to alter a torso sloper for a bust cup larger than a B, based on measurements from the ASTM Standard D8555-11 Body Measurements for an Adult Missy Figure Sizes- Size 00-20. She also demos how to increase from a C to a D to a DDD Cup. Martha’s Bust Cup Calculations & Cup Size Range Chart accompanies this lesson and provides key calculations & guidelines. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Fabulous Fit’s Fitting System and how to use pads to increase the bust size for an FBA. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

In her lesson, Martha uses Fabulous Fit Fitting System’s pads to increase the bust from a B to a C cup, and then from a D to a DDD cup. If you don’t own the Fabulous Fit Fitting System — get creative and form your own pads using rounded shoulder pads or polyfil.

Extracting key measurements from the dress form for an FBA: Bust Circumference, Under Bust Circumference, High Point Shoulder to Apex and Bust Span (apex to apex). (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Sectioning the front sloper in preparation for increasing the bust cup from a B to a C cup. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Once you have recorded your measurements onto the Bust Cup Calculations & Cup Size Range Chart, you will learn how to section off requisite areas on the front sloper in preparation for increasing the bust and length areas of the sloper using the Cup Size Range Chart.

Testing the Full Bust Adjustment fitter made of muslin or test fabric. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Once the bust cup adjustment sloper has been drafted, create a test muslin to check that: 1) there is enough ease at the side seam/armhole intersection, 2) there are no drag lines at the side seam, 3) the dart vanishes at the apex, 4) the waist dart aligns with the princess line, and 5) that the waist sits on the waistline and doesn’t ride up.

Mindset Shift: from “fixing flaws” to designing for reality

Learning how to pattern a Full Bust Adjustment isn’t just “fixing the bust.” It’s learning to draft for real bodies, reclaiming comfort and confidence, and stepping into true fit-engineer territory as a designer and maker. On a deeper level, learning to pattern an FBA is an act of inclusion. It acknowledges that “standard” bust proportions exclude a significant portion of women and femme-bodied people, especially plus-size and curvy sewists.

By teaching the FBA as a normal pattern adjustment rather than a “special problem,” we shift the narrative: bodies are not wrong; patterns are incomplete measurement—so the shoulders and upper chest fit—and then add the bust volume the pattern never accounted for. Learn how with Martha.

Did You Know You Can Earn Certificates Just by Completing University of Fashion Lessons? NO CHARGE

Francesca Sterlacci - June 13, 2026 - Site News, Special Offer, University of Fashion Certificates

For years, our subscribers asked how they could earn a certificate after completing their lessons. We listened—and in 2022, we introduced the University of Fashion Certificate of Completion program. Since then, thousands of paid subscribers have earned certificates at no additional cost. Are you one of them?

While traditional fashion schools can cost thousands of dollars, those in the know recognize that University of Fashion offers access to many of the same instructors and lessons found at top institutions like FIT and Parsons. With more than 525+lessons available, you can build your skills and earn certificates as you progress—on your own schedule.

Is There a Cost?

There is no additional fee for a University of Fashion Certificate of Completion. As long as you are a paid monthly or yearly subscriber and have completed a lesson, you are automatically eligible to receive your certificate.

Why Earn a Certificate?

An example of a UoF Certificate of Completion. (University of Fashion)

Earning a certificate is more than just a milestone—it is a valuable professional asset. Here are just a few ways you can use your University of Fashion certificates:

Present them to prospective employers alongside examples of your design, draping, drafting, or sewing work.
Include them in your portfolio for job applications or college admissions.
Frame them to showcase your expertise across multiple disciplines to clients.
Share them with instructors to support requests for extra credit.
Demonstrate to your employer that you have developed new skills in areas such as 3D design, AI, adaptive fashion, or sustainability.
Provide proof of subject-matter proficiency for teaching or curriculum development opportunities.

How Does It Work?

An example of a student subscriber’s My Learning page showing lessons in progress and lessons completed. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Our paid subscribers can track their individual progress toward earning certificates by clicking My Learning on the left side of their Account page.

On your My Learning page, you can:

See all your earned Certificates of Completion
See the lessons titles that you are currently watching, but have not yet completed
Download, print or email your Certificates to others
Download, print, email or post to social media a summary of your Certificates earned to-date

Am I Able to Get Teacher Feedback?

Yes. Our teachers love answering questions and reviewing work. Just contact us at cs@universityoffashion.com and we’ll get back to you within 24 hours, if not sooner. Your success is our goal!

Start learning, building your skills, and earning your certificates today: https://www.universityoffashion.com/sign-up/

The New Fashion Essential: Sewing Skills Are Reshaping Fashion Careers

Francesca Sterlacci - June 6, 2026 - Bespoke Tailoring, Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Business, Fashion Events, Fashion Innovation

University of Fashion offers 92 different sewing lessons from beginner to advanced. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

In an era dominated by fast fashion and disposable clothing, an unexpected shift is underway: sewing is back in style. Once considered a fading skill, the art of stitching, mending, and tailoring garments is experiencing a meaningful revival—both as a creative pursuit and as a viable, in-demand career path.

A June 7 article in The Wall Street Journal, “Vanishing Trade of Tailoring Revives,” highlights just how significant this resurgence has become. Tailors are now in such short supply that Nordstrom has partnered with the Fashion Institute of Technology to support a training program in custom alterations and tailoring. The demand is striking, the program received 190 applications for just 15 spots when it launched last fall.

The Data

Bureau of Labor Statistics Chart by State 2023

According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, there were approximately 18,500 tailors in the United States in 2024, representing nearly a 30 percent decline over the past decade. This shortage has hindered efforts to revive domestic apparel manufacturing and made it increasingly difficult for retailers such as Nordstrom, Men’s Wearhouse, and Jos. A. Bank to fill alterations roles. Dry cleaners are also struggling to find skilled professionals to meet customer demand.

Federal data shows that the annual wage for a dressmaker/tailor/custom sewer is between $22,000 – $60,000 based on skill level and location. However, with demand outpacing supply, skilled professionals are increasingly able to command higher wages and steady work in a growing market.

At the heart of this trend is a growing awareness of sustainability. Consumers are increasingly questioning the environmental cost of mass-produced clothing and are turning toward more responsible practices. Learning how to sew empowers individuals to extend the life of their garments, reduce waste, and make thoughtful choices about what they wear. Instead of discarding a beloved piece, people are choosing to repair, alter, or reinvent it—skills that lie at the core of sewing expertise.

AI Job Displacement leads to Sewing Careers

An excerpt from University of Fashion’s lesson, Pressing Tools & Techniques. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

As artificial intelligence reshapes the workforce and displaces certain jobs, new opportunities are beginning to surface. One notable shift is in the growing demand for tailoring services, fueled in part by the rise of GLP-1 weight loss medications and the resulting need for garment alterations. At the same time, more consumers are embracing resale fashion and choosing to modify existing pieces rather than replace them—creating fresh momentum and relevance for skilled tailors.

University of Fashion’s 9-part menswear tailoring series. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Where to Find Training?

Once a staple of high school education, home economics often served as a gateway to careers in tailoring, dressmaking, and fashion design. As these programs disappeared from school curricula and more women entered the corporate workforce, opportunities to learn sewing and garment construction in traditional classrooms declined significantly.

In response, a number of organizations have stepped in to fill this educational gap. The University of Fashion, founded in 2008, is the first and largest online fashion education platform with 550 video lessons, taught by industry professionals. Of the 500 lessons, 92 of the lessons are sewing specific and nine focus exclusively on menswear. Their lessons equip students with practical skills, enabling them to earn certificates, confidently enter the workforce and/or start their own fashion brand or bespoke/alterations business.

American Tailors & Sewing Association (ATSA) is based in Columbia, South Carolina, and focuses on establishing industry standards and providing professional development for tailors, alterations specialists, and garment construction professionals.

Association of Sewing & Design Professionals (ASDP) is based in Grandville, Michigan and supports people who sew or design professionally, offering education, certification, and networking for sewing and fashion-related careers.

American Sewing Guild (ASG) is a national nonprofit organization for people who enjoy sewing, with local chapters, online classes, and events focused on advancing sewing as both an art and a life skill.

Time to Put Out Your Shingle?

Available on Etsy: a personalized tailor shop hanging sign. (Image credit: Etsy)

Once seen as niche or old-fashioned professions, these roles are now essential in a fashion landscape that values customization and longevity. From hemming trousers to reshaping vintage finds, skilled professionals are in high demand. Bridal wear, in particular, continues to rely heavily on expert alteration specialists, while everyday consumers increasingly seek personalized fits that off-the-rack clothing simply cannot provide.

Ultimately, the return of sewing is more than a trend—it is a reflection of changing values. As consumers prioritize sustainability, individuality, and quality, the demand for skilled sewing professionals will only continue to grow. Whether pursued as a hobby or a career, learning to sew is no longer just a practical skill—it is a powerful statement about the future of fashion.

UoF Launches Adaptive Fashion Series

Francesca Sterlacci - May 30, 2026 - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Business, Fashion Education, Fashion History, Fashion Innovation, Instructor Spotlight, Marketing, New University of Fashion Lessons

Poster frames of UoF 5 lesson Adaptive fashion series University of Fashion launches their 5-part Adaptive Fashion Series taught by Tracy Vollbrecht of Vollbrecht Adaptive Consulting (Photo courtesy: University of Fashion)

Did you know that there are more clothing options available for dogs than there are for people with disabilities? It took a long time coming, but the fashion industry is finally addressing the needs of the disability community, which is known today as Adaptive Fashion.

Thanks to our expert Tracy Vollbrecht, the University of Fashion is launching its 5-part Adaptive Fashion series to help educate the industry in the Adaptive Fashion marketplace. Our new series covers: the history adaptive fashion, how to design & develop adaptive fashion and how to merchandise and market product for the adaptive fashion consumer.

Tracy Vollbrecht of Vollbrecht Adaptive Consulting and University of Fashion instructor (Image courtesy: Vollbrecht Adaptive Consulting)

Our series begins with the terminology used when referring to various types of disabilities. Ms. Vollbrecht also offers a downloadable Terms and Definitions document to help understand appropriate language and terms used is this specialized market segment.

Molly Farrell, a white woman with brown hair, is shown in this photo wearing ULEX, one of the brands Tracy designed and helped launch. Molly is wearing a royal blue wrap cardigan and gray pants, while seated on bleachers. She is smiling brightly and her pink forearm crutches are visible in the photo.

Adaptive fashion designed by Tracy Vollbrecht for Yarrow featured on the Canadian TV show Fashion Dis (Image courtesy: Tracy Vollbrecht)

Ms. Vollbrecht’s history of the adaptive market covers such innovators as Helen Cookman, who in 1955, began researching the market potential of adaptable clothing at New York University’s Institute of Physical Medicine and Rehabilitation after being recommended for the role by New York Times style editor Virginia Pope. Cookman would spend the next four years developing a collection called Functional Fashions, which was a collection of 17 items designed to help disabled people dress independently. However, Ms. Vollbrecht explains that upon the passing of Helen Cookman and Virginia Pope the functional fashion movement began to fade and was replaced with clothing intended to make dressing easier for the elderly. It wouldn’t be until 2004-2007 that The Adaptive Fashion Showroom and the company Wheeliechix-Chic, founded by Louisa Summerfield, came into being and would take adaptive fashion to the next level.

Monica Engle Thomas, a white woman with curly auburn hair, is shown in this photo wearing a white Yarrow sleeveless button down that Tracy designed. Monica sits in her black and white manual wheelchair. She also wears sunglasses and jeans, while holding the leash to her small dog.

Monica Engle Thomas wearing a white Yarrow sleeveless button down designed by Tracy Vollbrecht (Image courtesy: Yarrow)

Tracy Vollbrecht Interview

UoF founder Francesc Sterlacci sat down with Tracy Vollbrecht to learn why she became interested in designing for the adaptive market and her thoughts on where the market is headed.

Francesca: Were you formally trained as a fashion designer and if so, where? What motivated you to pursue a career in adaptive fashion?

Tracy: I am! I graduated from Kent State University with a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Fashion Design. At Kent, I had the opportunity to conduct research on adaptive fashion, which was still in its second-wave infancy. I say second-wave as there was a first wave of adaptive fashion in the 60s (check out the history of adaptive fashion lesson to learn more!). Within the research I conducted, I spoke to over 75 people with varying disabilities to learn about their challenges with clothing. My research culminated in a universally designed collection shown at Kent’s annual fashion show, a published research paper, and presenting my research at various conferences, including the International Textile and Apparel Association’s annual conference. The work I did at Kent showed me that clothing challenges weren’t just an issue my dad, who had MS, had experienced, but an issue that so many people face. This motivates me every day to continue the work I do – clothing should allow everyone to express themselves and feel good, not just some of us.

Francesca: How in demand are designers with adaptive fashion expertise? How did you connect with the companies that you have designed for in this space?

Tracy: Unfortunately, adaptive fashion is still very much a niche portion of the fashion industry, which is what myself and others are working to change. There isn’t a high demand for adaptive fashion designers yet. I’m hopeful that the niche will grow and there will be more demand for designers, merchandisers, buyers, marketers, etc with adaptive fashion experience. The companies I’ve worked with have either sought me out, were referred to me, or that I connected with them through network connections.

Francesca: Can you name the companies that you have designed for and/or who you are currently working for? Are their dedicated online and brick & mortar stores exclusively selling adaptive fashion?

Tracy: My first adaptive fashion role was with Juniper Unlimited where I designed and helped launch their brands’ Yarrow and ULEX. In my consulting work with Vollbrecht Adaptive Consulting, I’ve developed training resources for Target, taught lectures at IFA Paris, conducted research for Open Style Lab, and more. I can’t share who I’m working with at the moment, but I am definitely excited for what’s to come! At this stage, adaptive fashion is almost exclusively online. As we talk about in our merchandising lesson, online shopping has both pros and cons for the Disabled consumer. It’ll be great to see brands start to carry adaptive products in store, where the shopper can find them organically.

Francesca: What are the biggest challenges in designing for people with physical challenges?

Tracy: The biggest challenges for creating adaptive fashion are the variety in needs and the fashion cycle. Within the disability community and even within the same disability (physical or not), there is so much variety in clothing needs, body shape, and challenges. No two disabilities are the same, which is why it’s so important for brands to work with people with disabilities. However, the time and effort needed to properly develop clothing that actually works for all is at odds with the fast-fashion, trend driven nature of the fashion industry currently.

Molly Farrell wearing a top designed by Tracy Vollbrecht from ULEX- one of the brands she helped launch (Photo courtesy: ULEX)

Francesca: Do you see the adaptive market growing since companies like Tommy Hilfiger and other big brands have become more inclusive?

Tracy: Definitely! There is so much potential for brands to tap into the unmet needs of consumers with disabilities. Just because a few brands have gotten into the space doesn’t mean there isn’t room for more brands, all brands really, to get into the market. There will be “enough” adaptive fashion when consumers with disabilities have the same amount of choice in brand, price, and style as consumers without disabilities.

Francesca: What advice do you have for our students who may be interested in designing adaptive fashion?

Tracy: My advice to any student is that adaptive fashion is more than just adaptive design. Every role within the fashion industry (merchandising, product development, buying, marketing, etc.) is needed to make sure adaptive fashion gets into the hands of the consumer. If you have an interest in adaptive fashion, pursue it! Follow Disabled creators on social media; stay up to date on what brands are doing; volunteer for fashion shows. For designers specifically, adaptive fashion is still fashion. Getting experience working for fashion brands is essential. Since the adaptive market is still growing and there aren’t many adaptive design roles, take advantage of learning the process of design and development for non-adaptive fashion as that process still applies to adaptive fashion.

To learn more about Tracy Vollbrecht:

Cell: 732-632-7071

Website: www.vollbrechtadaptiveconsulting.com

LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/in/tracy-vollbrecht/

Company LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/company/vollbrecht-adaptive-consulting

Learn More About the Adaptive Market

Read the book: All About Adaptive by Michele Chung

Learn how a new store in Pasadena, California caters to Adaptive Fashion consumers: Sewn Adaptive

So, tell us, how will you be pursuing a career in the Adaptive Fashion market?

Announcing Our Newest Lesson: Drafting a Surplice Under Bust Knit Top

Francesca Sterlacci - May 23, 2026 - cut & sew knits, How It's Made, New Lessons, New University of Fashion Lessons, Pattern Making, Sewing

UoF’s newest lesson, Drafting a Surplice Under Bust Knit Top is part of a cut & sew knit drafting series. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Our latest cut & sew knit lesson has officially entered the chat — drum roll, please! It’s time to draft a Surplice Under Bust Knit Top. Equal parts sexy and sophisticated, this design wraps, flatters, and might just make Diane von Furstenberg’s iconic wrap dress a little nervous.

Reading the Sketch

Learning how to read a sketch— design details & proportions. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Once you’ve nailed drafting your knit sloper in our lesson Drafting a Women’s Fitted Stable Knit Sloper from Measurements, you’ve basically unlocked “boss level” in cut & sew knits. You are now officially cleared for takeoff into drafting land.

First stop: reading the surplice knit top sketch like the fashion detective you are. Study those proportions—the front neck drop, how far that neckline is from the neck in both front and back, where the wrap point hits on the body, and how much shirring is partying at the side seam.

Sewing Knits

University of Fashion’s 3-part knit sewing series. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

When it comes to sewing and taming cut & sew knits, consider us your personal knit wranglers. Our 3-part series walks you through choosing just-right seam allowances, plus hem and neckline finishes that help your stretchy creations behave like they actually asked to be sewn.

Be sure to check out our other cut & sew knit drafting lessons for more techniques and practice with knit drafting:

Drafting a Knit Halter Tank with a Racerback

Drafting A Knit Camisole

Drafting an Off-Shoulder Knit Top

Drafting a Built-up Neckline for Knits

Drafting a Cowl Neckline for Knits

Drafting a Boat Neckline for Knits

Drafting a Collared Neckline for Knits

Drafting a Hoodie Knit Top

Drafting An Off-Shoulder Knit Top with Cuff – 2 Variations