New York Fashion Week seemed to be about anything and everything other than the actual clothes this season. Performances such as Opening Ceremony’s one act play and Gareth Pugh’s New York debut spectacle took center stage. Street style photographers occupied as much real estate outside of Lincoln Center as the subjects they shot and serious fashionistas complained about “Lincoln Center Loiterers” (see Jimmy Kimmel’s Lie Witness News to join this conversation). All the while, designers packed their front rows with celebrities and shouldered the cost of showing at NYFW in hopes of growing their commercially viable businesses. New York fashion week is often described as “commercial,” as compared to that of London, Milan and Paris fashion weeks. However, with the sheer cost of showing coupled with a buying public with mass market, inexpensive pieces readily at their fingertips, including a large percentage of commercial pieces may be the ticket to staying in business for American designers. All “hot button” topics aside, my dream dance card for NYFW Spring 2015 is as follows:
Proenza Schouler – The laser cut leather. The fresh take on “American sportswear.” That argyle sweater paired with a leather fringed skirt? Get ready to see this look gracing the pages of “What’s hot for Spring?” issues.
Rosie Assoulin – Not only can Rosie Assoulin reinvent men’s shirting and notch collars in ways I haven’t seen before, but this designer has no fear when it comes to volume and fabric. She is designing for a niche customer – admirable, when so many designers are “playing it safe” to increase sales.
Delpozo – Josep Font cited color theorist Josef Albers’ artwork as his inspiration for Spring 2015. In addition to the striking pairings of color, the couture fabric manipulation techniques demanded an up close look. The detail in this collection is mesmerizing – each piece appears to be a stand alone work of wearable art.
Thom Browne – As close as it gets to Paris Fashion Week in New York. Having built a solid business on shirts and suits for men, Thom Browne takes liberties with his womenswear that up the design ante season after season. The embroidery, the mix of pattern and color, the references to his brand of menswear, the textiles, the craftsmanship from head to toe is awe inspiring. Thom Browne invites viewers into his spectacular fairy tales, and like the most classic of stories, Thom Brown’s exquisite tales never go out of style. Take a look at Thom Browne” Instagram – looks from years and seasons past are just as exquisite as those posted from his most recent collections.
Public School – Newcomers. CFDA award winners. And a little something for boys and girls. Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of Public School showed everything from unisex sweatshirts and tunics to an impeccably tailored suit. Their prints and knits were in line with the overall downtown vibe, making any buyer thrilled to have such a range of garments to choose from come showroom visit time.
The Row – The sunlit brick. The wood planked runway. The atmosphere was as natural, effortless and comfortable at the voluminous silhouettes on the models. Say what you will about Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen, the design team at The Row produces sophisticated ease season after season. In my opinion, these women have proven themselves as having a brand specific, targeted and consistent voice in fashion.
Betsey Johnson – Pure fun. Pure camp. Commercially viable? Probably not, but to Betsey Johnson selling clothes did not seem to matter. Her collection was entitled “Prenup,” and with “models” from all walks of reality star life (including RuPaul’s Drag Race and the Real Housewives of Beverly Hills), Ms. Johnson seemed to be acknowledging her next adventure – a turn on ABC’s Dancing with the Stars.
And so, we mark one more New York Fashion Week off the calendar. London is up next! Which shows would have filled your NYFW dance card? Be sure to comment below!
Photo Credit: Style.com
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