How to Draft a Coat & Cape

image of coat and cape drafting lessons

Winter’s not over yet and there’s still time to draft and sew your own coat or cape. So, take a trip to your local fabric store or shop online and find that fabulous wool, cashmere, boucle, melton, alpaca, mohair, camel hair, gabardine or any fabric of your dreams and then start drafting! You could even make a sustainable patchwork coat or cape by upcycling your old clothes or fabric scraps. Turn that something old into new again!

We have two coat lessons to choose from: a wrap coat and a cape. Both of these designs, start with converting your previously drafted jacket & sleeve slopers into a coat slopers adding in wearing ease to accommodate the number of layers that may be worn underneath the coat or cape.

Getting Started

image of coat and cape drawing from UoF lessonsUniversity of Fashion’s coat drafting series begins with converting your women’s jacket & sleeve slopers into coat slopers (Image credit: University of Fashion).

As every pattern maker/designer knows…having a complete set of slopers is the foundation for designing anything your creative brain can imagine.

The path for creating your own set of bespoke slopers starts with these two lessons: Drafting a Shoulder Dart Bodice Sloper from Measurements and drafting a Straight Sleeve. For the coat sleeve, start by drafting a Fitted  Sleeve from Your Straight Sleeve Sloper, then Convert the Fitted Sleeve to a Suit Sleeve. You will also need to convert your bodice sloper to a torso sloper in our lesson, Convert Bodice Sloper to Torso Sloper and then Convert the Fitted Torso Sloper to a Suit Sloper.  Now you are ready to learn how to convert both the suit jacket and sleeve to a coat slopers in this lesson, Convert a Women’s Suit Jacket Sloper to a Coat Sloper.

Our wrap coat lesson includes how to draft a shawl collar, patch pockets, a tie belt and a full lining. Our cape lesson includes how to draft a hood, plan for buttons & buttonholes, and how to line the cape.

We wish you a lot of fun drafting and then sewing one or both of  these classic coat styles.

 

 

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Headshot of Francesca Sterlacci

Francesca Sterlacci is the CEO of University of Fashion (UoF) which she founded in 2008 as the first on-demand online fashion video library bringing the art and craft of fashion design and business to schools, libraries, organizations and the general public. As owner of her eponymous label for ten years, her collection sold in fine stores such as Bergdorf Goodman, Saks, Barneys and Nordstrom. As a professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology for 11 years, she became Chair of the Fashion Design Department where she initiated the complete revision of their AAS and BFA degree programs, as well as wrote three certificate programs: Leather Fashion Design, Outerwear and Haute Couture. Francesca has also taught graduate level fashion design at the Academy of Art University San Francisco for six years, both on site and online. Her publishing accomplishments include: Leather Apparel Design, the Historical Dictionary of the Fashion Industry (First and Second Editions), the A-Z of the Fashion Industry, Leather Fashion Design and a 3-volume beginner series on Draping, Pattern Making and Sewing designed to complement the UoF lessons. She has also made literary contributions to both the Encyclopedia of Clothing & Fashion and You Can Do It! The Merit Badge Handbook for Women. Francesca holds an AAS, BA and an MSEd (master’s degree in higher education).