Pattern Drafting Collars
A beautifully constructed collar can serve as a basic building block to great design. This week we focus on five (Yes, five!) new videos dedicated to all of your collar patterning needs.
The University of Fashion’s newest videos serve as step by step guides to creating the following collar styles:
Peter Pan Collar
A Peter Pan Collar belongs to the category of collars known as ‘rolled’ collars, meaning that they ‘roll’ over themselves creating a ‘stand’ on the back as they contour the neck in the front. In this lesson we will teach you 3 different ‘stands’ or ‘rolls’: one that sits flat on the body, one that has a 1/2″ stand and a third that has a 1″ stand. While the lesson demonstrates a Peter Pan variety, with rounded ends in the front, you can adapt this technique to the collar point of your choice. See examples of Peter Pan Collars as featured on the Saint Laurent’s runway for F/W14. In each of our collar videos, Barbara Seggio shares her over 30 years of pattern making expertise – just as she does as an Adjunct Associate Professor in FIT classrooms.
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Peter Pan Collar – 3 Variations
Banded Collar
A Banded Collar is a narrow band collar, usually between 3/4″-1 1/2″ wide, tapering at center front with a closure extension. Often making an appearance in Alexander Wang collections, S/S14 was no different – see banded collars in Wang’s collection here.
Banded Collar
Mandarin Collar
The Mandarin Collar or Nehru collar, is similar to a banded collar in that sits stands up on the back neck. However this collar doesn’t have a closure extension on the front and can either be rounded or squared off on the ends. It can be seen in the Marc Jacobs S/S14 collection.
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Mandarin Collar
Convertible Collar
A Convertible Collar, by definition, is a rolled collar that converts two ways, meeting at center front or open, creating a notch collar effect. Newcomer to the fashion scene, Rosie Assoulin pushes the traditional convertible collar envelope in her F/W14 collection.
Convertible Collar
Sailor Collar
The Sailor Collar is a flat square-back collar tapering to a V in the front. The fact that we haven’t seen this collar style on the runways for a moment could mean it’s poised for a comeback? Let us know what you think in the comments below!
Sailor Collar
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