University of Fashion Blog

Category "Tailoring"

School’s back in session—and so are we!

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 Think of us as every student’s best-kept secret: your own private fashion tutor, available on demand.

Our mission is your success. Whether you’re a student or teacher at a high school or college—anywhere in the world—and you need support with curriculum development, class projects, or building your portfolio, we’re here for YOU.

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Access 550+ on-demand video tutorials across 13 fashion disciplines, all taught by experienced fashion professors and industry professionals:

  • Draping: daywear, athleisure, evening & bridal, swimwear, intimate apparel

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Ready to elevate your fashion education? Use code TUTOR at checkout and start learning today.

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And just because we love every single fashionista out there, you don’t need to be a student or teacher to take advantage of our back to school promo, our sale is open to everyone!University of Fashion Promo code - TUTOR. $55 off a yearly subscription Was $220 now $165. Off expires 10.1.2026

 

 

What I Learned After 25+ Years as a Fashion College Professor — Part Two

 

Banner image of blog topic- What I Learned in My 25+ years as a Fashion College ProfessorThis week’s blog continues my two-part series reflecting on what I learned over more than 25 years as a fashion college professor. My career included 17 years teaching at the Fashion Institute of Technology, followed by 3 years as Chair of the Fashion Design department, and later 6 years teaching graduate-level fashion design at the Academy of Art University. Throughout that time, I had a front-row seat to students’ journeys into the fashion industry, observing how they navigated everything from the application process to making the most of their education once accepted.

In Part One, I focused on helping prospective students understand how to choose and apply to fashion colleges. In Part Two, I shift my focus to fashion educators, offering insight into how they can support students in thriving and creating a meaningful, positive experience once they begin their studies.

Student Insecurities

I still vividly remember my own first day at FIT as a student. Sitting in a class of 200 students selected from a pool of 2,000 applicants, I felt both grateful and overwhelmed. Alongside the excitement came a wave of insecurity: Was I talented enough? Could I keep up with the workload? Had the school made a mistake in accepting me?

That uncertainty quickly eased thanks to my professor. She welcomed the class warmly, invited each of us to introduce ourselves and share where we came from, and immediately created a sense of belonging. She then reviewed the syllabus, emphasized the importance of deadlines, explained attendance and grading policies, and opened the floor for questions.

Throughout my years of teaching, I adopted this same approach. I found that students are far more likely to succeed when they clearly understand expectations from the outset. In later years, the department introduced a detailed grading rubric outlining the criteria for each grade level (A, A-, B, B-, C, C-, D, F). Students were asked to sign this document, which not only helped manage expectations but also supported faculty in addressing the challenges of grade inflation.

Access to Tutoring

University of Fashion Home Page

University of Fashion — the perfect answer to the tutor and upskilling problem. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

As school budgets continue to tighten, many fashion programs have had to eliminate the free tutoring services they once provided. I remember during my time at FIT, top-performing students were hired to support peers who needed extra help managing the workload. Faculty also made themselves available before and after class to guide struggling students. However, union regulations requiring additional compensation for extra hours, combined with budget constraints, gradually brought these valuable support systems to an end. Today, many students are left to navigate these challenges on their own.

That gap is exactly what inspired the creation of University of Fashion. In 2008, I set out to support aspiring fashion students—first by helping them prepare for the fashion school application process, and then by building a comprehensive library of lessons taught by leading fashion college professors and industry professionals. The goal was not only to provide accessible tutoring for students, but also to empower educators.

University of Fashion gives teachers the tools to expand their curriculum and refine their skills without needing to return to school. With limited time and resources, many faculty members benefit from the flexibility of learning and teaching enhancement from home.

UoF Lesson Disciplines

Image of UoF Disciplines 1UoF's disciplines 2UoF disciplines 3UoF’s 13 different lesson disciplines. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Today, University of Fashion offers over 550 lessons across 13 disciplines, including Draping, Sewing, Patternmaking, Accessories, Childrenswear, Menswear, Knits, Product Development, CAD Fashion Art, CAD Patternmaking, Fashion Business, and a wide range of Fashion Lectures covering topics such as A.I for Fashion Design, Costume History, Color Theory, Textile Design, Fabric Studies, Sustainable Design, and many more. We support hundreds of fashion students worldwide while also helping educators broaden their teaching scope.

Testimonials

Don’t just take our word for it—explore some of what our students and educators have to say.

Just a few of our many testimonials. (Image Credit: University of Fashion)

Complement not Replacement

It is important to note that University of Fashion was founded as a complement to, not a replacement for, fashion college education. Our mission was to inspire anyone interested in a career in the fashion industry and to preserve the art & craft of fashion for current and future generations. As we celebrate our 18th anniversary, we are proud that we have succeeded in being the first and largest online fashion education resource, not only for aspiring designers, current fashion school students and teachers, but as a resource for anyone who is curious about a fashion career.

 

The Art & Anatomy of Handsewn Buttonholes

image of 3 hand sewn buttonholes-straight, rounded and keyhole

University of Fashion’s 3-part series on creating handsewn buttonholes. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Fashion has its own language—and nowhere is that more delightfully apparent than in the art of handsewn buttonholes. If you’ve ever felt that couture insiders are speaking in code when they discuss their sewing tools, consider this your glossary moment. Better yet, Andrew Curwen’s handsewn buttonhole video series serves as your guide, translating each term into a skill you can master with confidence.

Creating a truly refined handsewn buttonhole begins with a carefully selected toolkit: polyester thread for basting, silk buttonhole twist, gimp, hymo, a #7 sharps needle, and an open-top thimble. Each element plays a distinct role in achieving that crisp, elevated finish.

Buttonhole Twist
This is the star of the process—the thread used to form the dense blanket stitches that define the buttonhole’s edge. Strong, smooth, and slightly lustrous, silk buttonhole twist is the couture standard. Whether you choose a matching shade for subtlety or a contrasting color for emphasis, this thread carries both the structure and the visual impact.

Gimp
Gimp is a thicker thread that sits beneath the buttonhole stitches, giving them dimension and a beautifully raised profile. While finding an exact color match can be challenging, Andrew Curwen offers an ingenious solution in his three-part series: a method for creating perfectly matched gimp, ensuring both precision and polish.

Hymo
Hymo is a hair canvas interfacing that provides essential internal support. Available in various weights and in both fusible and non-fusible options, it reinforces the fabric layers, helping the buttonhole maintain its shape and durability over time.

#7 Sharps Needle
Sharps are versatile hand-sewing needles with a sharp point and a round eye, available in sizes 1 through 12. For buttonholes, a size 7 strikes the ideal balance—fine enough for precise, tight stitches, yet sturdy enough to handle multiple layers.

Open-Top Thimble
An open-top metal thimble protects your finger while allowing greater sensitivity and control. It helps push the needle cleanly through the fabric, making it an essential tool for the repetitive, controlled motions required in buttonhole work.

The Process
images of the handsewn buttonhole-making processThe steps for making a Straight Handsewn Buttonhole: 1) baste & mark the buttonhole before slitting the buttonhole opening, 2) Twist silk buttonhole thread to create gimp, 3)   baste gimp to slit, 4) blanket-stitching the buttonhole, 5) bar tacking one edge, 6) finished buttonhole.   

Mastering handsewn buttonholes is as much about understanding your tools as it is about technique. With the right materials—and expert guidance from Andrew Curwen—you can transform what seems like a meticulous detail into a signature mark of craftsmanship. In the end, these small, deliberate stitches speak volumes, elevating a garment from simply made to truly exceptional.

Not a UoF Subscriber? Watch our Video Previews

3 lessons on handsewn buttonhole - sewing Click on the link to view our video previews: Handsewn Straight Buttonholes, Handsewn Rounded Buttonholesand Handsewn Keyhole Buttonhole.  

A Master Class in Measuring the Female Body

measuring the female body lesson poster frame

UoF’s lesson on measuring 104 points of the female body. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

One of the greatest challenges our students confess to is mastering the art (and science!) of measuring the female body. Take one wrong measurement, and it’s fashion’s version of a domino effect—suddenly your pattern fits like it was made for a completely different species. Accurate measuring isn’t just important; it’s the difference between runway-ready and “what on earth happened here?”

Measuring Points Diagrams

measuring points diagram

UoF’s measuring points diagrams. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Our master class on how to measure an actual, living, breathing female body—the kind that moves, sighs, and occasionally checks her phone mid-measurement, comes with free downloadable diagrams to help with the process.

UoF’s measuring point diagrams.

UoF’s measuring points diagrams. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

You’ll master the fine art of extracting every vital dimension needed for draping and pattern making (without losing your tape measure halfway through). No more guess work.

UoF’s measuring point diagrams.

UoF’s measuring points diagrams. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Along the way, we’ll decode all those fancy anatomical terms the fashion industry loves, such as, front neck base, bust arc, apex and bust span.

Measuring Points Chart

measuring points charts

An example of UoF’s 7-page body measuring points chart — a color-coded companion to the diagrams. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Think of our downloadable, color‑coded chart as the VIP pass to your measuring marathon, perfectly in step with the diagrams and packed with clear explanations for the placement of all 104 official points of measure. Yes, 104—because in fashion, precision is everything and your tape measure is basically training for its own endurance sport.

But There’s More

measuring points chart

UoF’s Women’s Global Size Range Chart Sizes 2-18 and their European equivalents. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Our Women’s Global Size Chart is the extra perk you didn’t know you needed. It not only breaks down points of measure for US sizes 2–18, but also gives you the European size equivalents, so your patterns can country-hop as effortlessly as your wardrobe.

Finale

By the time you are done with this lesson, you will not only speak the fluent geometry of the female form, you will move through spec sheets and tech packs with the quiet confidence of someone who knows exactly where every millimeter goes—and why it matters.

 

The Quiet Elegance of Love

With Men’s Fall/Winter 2026/27 fashion week behind us, the season’s prevailing message was clear: softness is strength. Designers embraced unstructured tailoring, featherlight jackets, relaxed trousers, and oversized shirts and knits with fluid, rounded shoulders — silhouettes that favored ease over rigidity. One couldn’t help but see these trends as an unspoken tribute to Giorgio Armani, who passed away on September 4, 2025, at the age of 91.

1-Sergio Galleotti & Armani

Sergio Galeotti and Giorgio Armani co-founders of the Armani brand in 1975 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

When Armani died, the world mourned the loss of more than a designer — it lost a man who built an empire on subtlety, restraint, and human warmth. Yet those who knew him best understood that behind the measured confidence and quiet brilliance of his craft stood a constant, steady love: First with his co-founder Sergio Galeotti (1945-1985) and then with Leo Dell’Orco, his “right‑hand man” and now creative director of Armani menswear.

Leo Dell’Orco and Giorgio Armani

Leo Dell’Orco and Giorgio Armani (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

For over half a century, Leo was not only Armani’s partner but also his closest collaborator, the man who understood that Giorgio’s minimalist perfection was never cold — it was intimate. Their relationship was private, even quiet, yet it informed everything the Armani brand became. Together, they cultivated a vision rooted in emotional intelligence — clothes that whispered, never shouted; tailoring that respected the body, not the ego.

Leo, who began working with Armani in the 1970s, became the silent architect of the designer’s most enduring codes. Where Giorgio articulated purity and proportion, Leo safeguarded the soul of the brand. Their dialogue — both personal and creative — was one of continuous refinement. Every softened shoulder, every whisper of silk, every measured tone of taupe felt like a conversation between them, an unspoken understanding turned tangible.

Armani collection FW 2026/27

Armani Fall/Winter 2026/27 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

Now, as the world looks toward the Spring 2026–2027 menswear collection — the first conceived entirely under Leo’s direction since Armani’s passing — the clothes themselves feel like a eulogy written in fabric. Reviewers have called it a “silent ode” to Armani, but perhaps it is better understood as a love letter — one from Leo to the man who taught the world that elegance is not about attention, but about affection.

Armani collection f/W 2026/27Armani Fall/Winter 2026/27 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

The collection avoids spectacle. Instead, it returns to Armani’s earliest language: clean linen blazers, sculpted trousers, muted desert tones, and that unmistakable sense of ease. There are hints of mourning — a softness in the cut, a delicacy in the color gradients, as if the garments are woven with memory. Yet amid the restraint, there is light: glimpses of hope, renewal, and simple devotion.

Armani 2025

Giorgio Armani 2025 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

In the end, Armani’s greatest creation may not have been a jacket or a silhouette, but a life lived alongside two people who shared his understanding of beauty — that quiet confidence and serenity born not from fame, but from love. The Spring 2026–2027 season stands as an eloquent testament to that belief: that love, like great design, endures through form, line, and time.

BUTTONED UP: The Surprisingly Wild World of Buttons

images of buttonsButtons come in all kinds of shapes: flat, rimmed, dome, half ball, full ball, tubular, triangular, even square.  Other types of buttons go by the names: French bevel, shank, fisheye, slotted well, English rim and double dome. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Buttons: Tiny Heroes of Fashion

Let’s be honest—most of us never give buttons a second thought. They’re just… there, doing their tiny, thankless job of keeping our clothes from falling off. But behind every crisp shirt and snug waistband lies a world of button drama you probably never knew existed! From their materials and sizes to the mysterious art of sewing them on, buttons are more complex than you’d expect.

In fact, they are SEW important that we decided that buttons deserve their moment in the spotlight. Yep, we went there—an entire 7-part series dedicated to the unsung heroes of fashion: buttons and buttonholes. This blog is a teaser for what you’ll learn at UoF about these Mighty Midgets.

images of 2, 3 and 4 hole buttons

There are two basic types of buttons: Holed and Shank. A holed button may have two, three or four holes. A Shank button has one loop on the back. (Image credit: University of Fashion). 

Button Materials – Buyer Beware

Buttons can be made from just about anything the imagination can dream up, however, you must remember that clothes containing buttons will need to be either laundered or dry cleaned and therefore buttons should be tested. Sometimes button color can bleed onto fabric, or buttons crack during the drycleaning process or even melt when hit with a hot iron.  Therefore, always test your button choice.

examples of natural materials for buttons

Examples of natural material buttons (Image credit:  Sewing: Beginner Techniques book by Francesca Sterlacci, Laurence King Publishing). 

Buttons are made from natural or synthetic materials — seashells, coconut shells —  or synthetics like your grandma’s old bingo chips if inspiration strikes — but I repeat… your garment will eventually need to face the horrors of a washing machine or dry cleaner. That’s when untested buttons start to rebel. Colors bleed, plastics melt faster than an ice cream cone in Palm Springs, and cracks appear where creative genius once shone. Moral of the story? Don’t trust a button until it’s passed the laundry test.

Images of synthetic button materials

Examples of synthetic material buttons (Image credit:  Sewing: Beginner Techniques book by Francesca Sterlacci, Laurence King Publishing).   

Button Sewing Tools

When it comes to stitching buttons, a little planning goes a long way, unless you’re into the kind of chaos that has buttons flying off in public. You’ll need to decide whether to use standard sewing thread or the heavyweight champion of the thread world. The latter is perfect for those serious coats and jackets that don’t mess around, because nobody wants a button giving up mid-winter.

images of beeswax tools

Examples of thread detangling tools (Image credit: University of Fashion). 

To keep your thread from turning into a rebellious knot monster, give it a quick spa treatment first — run it across a little beeswax or Thread Magic to smooth and strengthen it. For bonus points, press it with a warm iron to melt away any sticky residue (and to remind it who’s boss).

needls: Sharps and quilting betweens

Choose a #5 Quilting/Betweens needle for button-sewing, it is shorter and easier to use than a #5 Sharps needle. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

When it comes to sewing on buttons, reach for a #5 Quilting/Betweens needle, it’s the compact sports car of needles: shorter, zippier, and way easier to handle than the longer #5 Sharps when navigating those tiny stitches.

Button-Sewing Strategies

You’d think sewing on a button would be a five-minute job. Ha! Think again. A four-hole button is basically a choose-your-own-adventure story in miniature — do you go vertical, horizontal, zigzag, or full drama with an X?

various types of button stitching patterns for 4 hole buttons

4-Hole Button-sewing Patterns: Vertical, Horizontal, Zigzag and X (Image credit: University of Fashion).

And if you really want to show off, grab a contrast thread so everyone knows your button isn’t just functional… it’s a fashion statement.

Contrast Buttonholes and stitching

Examples of contrast thread for buttonholes & button-stitching (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Button Sizing

Back in the eighteenth century, German button makers got fancy with their measurements and came up with the term for measuring buttons, “ligne”. The idea was simple — if you fold a round candle wick flat (because apparently, everyone was doing that in their spare time), voilà — that’s your unit of measurement! One ligne equals 1/40th of an inch, or roughly .025 of an inch (.635 mm) if you’re more of a math person than a candle-folding enthusiast. Today, buttons are measured using a gauge device or a chart.

button measuring devices- chart and gauge Examples of button chart and gauge devices for measuring button sizes. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

University of Fashion’s 7-part Button Series

Ready to dive into the riveting world of buttons and buttonholes? Discover why size does matter, how to choose the perfect button, how to line them up like a pro, and the surprisingly dramatic difference between sewing them by hand and by machine—all in our unmissable series!

images of UoF's 4 lessons on buttonsimages of 3 lessons on buttons

Click the links below to view our lesson previews on buttons & buttonholes or sign up to UoF and see the full video library of these and 545 other fashion how-to videos:

Intro to Buttons & Buttonholes

Sewing Buttons: Shank & 4-Hole Thread Shank

Handmade Bound Buttonhole

Machine-Made Buttonholes: Straight & Keyhole

Handsewn Straight Buttonhole

Handsewn Rounded Buttonhole

Handsewn Keyhole Buttonhole

Bespoke Tailoring: A Lost Art?

 Tailoring a suit & tools

Last week’s social media explosion of images from the MET Gala, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style, raised the question, “what truly is the state of bespoke tailoring today?”

In this week’s blog, I’ll delve into the art of bespoke tailoring and explore how, thanks to events like the MET exhibition, and the passion of some very skilled craftspeople, it is far from becoming a relic of the past.

The world of bespoke menswear tailoring is rich with tradition, artistry, and innovation. Whether you’re seeking the timeless elegance of Savile Row, the soft tailoring of Naples, or the contemporary flair of modern ateliers, there are standout tailors across the globe who consistently deliver exceptional craftsmanship and personalized service. Here are some of the finest bespoke tailors for men (and women), each offering a unique approach to sartorial excellence.

Huntsman & Sons (Savile Row)
Co head cutter at Huntsman Dario Carnera
Dario Carnera, Co-Head Cutter at Huntsman London. (Image credit HuntsmanSavileRow.com)

 

Huntsman & Sons is one of Savile Row’s most storied houses, celebrated for its structured, clean lines and impeccable British tailoring. Their heritage dates back to 1849, and they have dressed royalty, celebrities, and discerning gentlemen worldwide. Huntsman’s signature one-button jacket and strong silhouette set it apart, making it a top choice for those seeking classic English refinement. According to Dario Carnera, Co-Head Cutter, “More than just experience, crafting a bespoke suit is also about having the cutters’ ‘rock of eye“, referring to a process of making clothes that relies on the eye — that is, feeling — more than measurements.

Oswald Boateng (Savile Row) 

Oswald Boateng- Couture bespoke tailor (Image credit: OzwaldBoateng.com)

Since the early 1980s, Ozwald Boateng has championed the idea that tailoring is more than a craft. It is identity. It is power. It is heritage. From the streets of London to the ateliers of Savile Row, Boateng brought a fresh perspective to classic British tailoring. He introduced bold colours, intricate linings, and a modern silhouette that spoke to a new generation. For the first time, the suit became a symbol not only of style but also of personal and cultural pride. In 1995, he became the first Black tailor to open a store on Savile Row, breaking boundaries and setting a new standard for inclusion and creativity in British fashion. His work attracted a global clientele—from Hollywood icons to heads of state—each drawn to the idea that a suit could tell a story far beyond fabric and thread. On May 13th 2025, Angeline Jolie announced a designer residency for Boateng at her fashion studio, Atelier Jolie, in Manhattan.

Rubinacci (Naples)
tailor at Rubinacci Naples

Rubinacci is based in Naples (Image credit: Ribinacci.com)

Founded by Gennaro Rubinacci in 1932, Rubinacci is synonymous with Neapolitan tailoring, offering a softer, more relaxed fit that’s both comfortable and stylish. Their expertise in lightweight construction and vibrant styling appeals to those who want Italian flair without sacrificing sophistication. Rubinacci’s strength lies in its ability to blend tradition with personality, making each suit a true reflection of its wearer. By 1962, his son Mariano took the helm and today his grandson Luca Rubinacci is creative director.

Cifonelli (Paris)

Image ofLorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli
Cifonelli bespoke suits are made entirely by hand in their Paris workshop overseen by Lorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli. (Image credit: Cifonelli.com)
Founded in 1880 by Guiseppe Cifonelli in Rome, the brand later established itself in Paris. Cifonelli is revered for its Parisian elegance, characterized by a unique shoulder construction and meticulous finishing. The brand combines French finesse with Italian softness resulting in garments that are both structured and supremely comfortable. Their bespoke suits can be priced up to $8,000.
B&Tailor (Seoul)
Chad Park of B&Tailor
Chad Park of B&Tailor fitting a bespoke suit (Image credit” B&Tailor Instagram)
B&Tailor was founded in 1980 by Jung Yul Park and quickly made a name for himself for his blend of classic and contemporary bespoke tailoring, executed with precision by skilled Korean artisans. The house is known for its flattering cuts, superb craftsmanship, and now, under the direction of Park’s sons Chad and Chang, deliver bespoke quality to a younger, style-conscious clientele.
JB Clothiers (Los Angeles) 
image if Jerry Bakhchyan of JB ClothiersJerry Bakhchyan owner/founder of JB Clothiers Los Angeles (Image credit: JBClothiers.com)
JB Clothiers was founded in 1997 by Jerry Bakhchyan, an immigrant who came to this country with a dream to build a lasting legacy-a family business that not only reflects his heritage but also his love for creating impeccably tailored clothing. JB Clothiers offers a highly personalized bespoke experience in Los Angeles, using high-end imported fabrics and meticulous tailoring. Their reputation for perfection and attentive service makes them a standout for those seeking custom suits in the U.S. Clients praise the fit and finish, and the shop’s modern approach is ideal for anyone wanting a blend of tradition and contemporary style.
Rishabh Manocha (New York) 
Rishabh Manocha buttoning suit jacket

NYC-based bespoke tailor & UoF instructor, Rishabh Manocha (Image credit: @kirktruman)

University of Fashion is proud and fortunate to have NYC-based bespoke tailor Rishabh Manocha, the creator of our 13-part menswear series, whose passion and respect for bespoke craftsmanship has made him one of UOF’s most popular instructors. Rishabh established his eponymous label in 2017. An alum of Parsons School of Design and Central Saint Martins, he credits his education with the tailors on Savile Row for the technical soundness that complements his conceptual designs. Rishabh is considered one of New York’s promising, new sustainable tailors.

View Rishabh’s UOF menswear lessons: Measuring the Male Body, Drafting a Men’s Upper Body Block, Drafting a Men’s Shirt Block, Drafting a Men’s Trouser Block, Drafting a Men’s Set-in Sleeve Sloper, Drafting a Men’s One-piece Jacket Sleeve from Measurements, Drafting a Men’s Pleated TrouserDrafting a Men’s Upper Body Jacket Block, Drafting a Men’s HoodieDrafting a Men’s Classic 2-Button Single-Breasted JacketBesom/Jetted Flap Pocket, Drafting a Men’s Jacket Lining, Facing & Interfacings, Drafting a Men’s Two-Piece Jacket Sleeve.

There are many more bespoke establishments such as Anderson & Sheppard, Henry Poole, Gieves & Hawkes, can you name more?