University of Fashion Blog

Category "Menswear"

UoF’s Back to School Sale: Get Your Own Private Tutor

Back to school sale image $55 off a yearly subscription

Think of us as every student’s best-kept secret: your own private fashion tutor, available on demand.

Our mission is your success. Whether you’re a student or teacher at a high school or college—anywhere in the world—and you need support with curriculum development, class projects, or building your portfolio, we’re here for YOU.

Our 13 Different Lesson Disciplines: Beginner, Intermediate & Advanced

Access 550+ on-demand video tutorials across 13 fashion disciplines, all taught by experienced fashion professors and industry professionals:

  • Draping: daywear, athleisure, evening & bridal, swimwear, intimate apparel

  • Pattern Making: daywear, athleisure, evening & bridal, swimwear, intimate apparel

  • Sewing: machine & hand stitching, seam and hem finishes, zippers, couture techniques, tailoring, embroidery, leatherwork, and more

  • Fashion Drawing: figure drawing for men, women, and children; fabric rendering; design details; watercolor, pastels, and more

  • Knits: knitting, crocheting, and cut-and-sew knits

  • Menswear: measuring the male body and drafting bespoke patterns from measurements

  • CAD Art: Illustrator, Photoshop, Procreate, 3D design, AI fashion design, textile design

  • CAD Pattern Making: Tukatech pattern drafting and marker-making software

  • Accessories: handbags, small leather goods, shoe design

  • Product Development: starting a brand, adaptive fashion, tech design, flats, specs, tech packs, 3D design, AI fashion design

  • Childrenswear: global sizing and free kids’ pattern slopers for boys’ and girls’ wear

  • Fashion Business: start-up, retail, branding, fashion law, licensing, visual merchandising, and more

  • Lecture Series: adaptive design, costume history, sustainable design, color theory, trend forecasting, textiles, visual merchandising, and more

Special back-to-school offer

We typically run this promotion only once a year (during the holidays), but to help teachers and students get a head start, we’re offering $55 off our annual subscription:

  • Regular price: $220

  • Now: $165 with code TUTOR

  • Offer expires: October 1, 2026

Ready to elevate your fashion education? Use code TUTOR at checkout and start learning today.

If you are a school or group, we offer a free trial so that you can sample our content before taking advantage of our reduced rates for schools & groups.

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Hurry, our offers expire October 1, 2026. Please note that the student discount promo code can only be used by teachers for their own personal use and not for use in the classroom. For our group subscription rates (5+ people) and to learn more about our free trials, scan the Group QR code above.

And just because we love every single fashionista out there, you don’t need to be a student or teacher to take advantage of our back to school promo, our sale is open to everyone!

What I Learned After 25+ Years as a Fashion College Professor — Part Two

 

Banner image of blog topic- What I Learned in My 25+ years as a Fashion College ProfessorThis week’s blog continues my two-part series reflecting on what I learned over more than 25 years as a fashion college professor. My career included 17 years teaching at the Fashion Institute of Technology, followed by 3 years as Chair of the Fashion Design department, and later 6 years teaching graduate-level fashion design at the Academy of Art University. Throughout that time, I had a front-row seat to students’ journeys into the fashion industry, observing how they navigated everything from the application process to making the most of their education once accepted.

In Part One, I focused on helping prospective students understand how to choose and apply to fashion colleges. In Part Two, I shift my focus to fashion educators, offering insight into how they can support students in thriving and creating a meaningful, positive experience once they begin their studies.

Student Insecurities

I still vividly remember my own first day at FIT as a student. Sitting in a class of 200 students selected from a pool of 2,000 applicants, I felt both grateful and overwhelmed. Alongside the excitement came a wave of insecurity: Was I talented enough? Could I keep up with the workload? Had the school made a mistake in accepting me?

That uncertainty quickly eased thanks to my professor. She welcomed the class warmly, invited each of us to introduce ourselves and share where we came from, and immediately created a sense of belonging. She then reviewed the syllabus, emphasized the importance of deadlines, explained attendance and grading policies, and opened the floor for questions.

Throughout my years of teaching, I adopted this same approach. I found that students are far more likely to succeed when they clearly understand expectations from the outset. In later years, the department introduced a detailed grading rubric outlining the criteria for each grade level (A, A-, B, B-, C, C-, D, F). Students were asked to sign this document, which not only helped manage expectations but also supported faculty in addressing the challenges of grade inflation.

Access to Tutoring

University of Fashion Home Page

University of Fashion — the perfect answer to the tutor and upskilling problem. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

As school budgets continue to tighten, many fashion programs have had to eliminate the free tutoring services they once provided. I remember during my time at FIT, top-performing students were hired to support peers who needed extra help managing the workload. Faculty also made themselves available before and after class to guide struggling students. However, union regulations requiring additional compensation for extra hours, combined with budget constraints, gradually brought these valuable support systems to an end. Today, many students are left to navigate these challenges on their own.

That gap is exactly what inspired the creation of University of Fashion. In 2008, I set out to support aspiring fashion students—first by helping them prepare for the fashion school application process, and then by building a comprehensive library of lessons taught by leading fashion college professors and industry professionals. The goal was not only to provide accessible tutoring for students, but also to empower educators.

University of Fashion gives teachers the tools to expand their curriculum and refine their skills without needing to return to school. With limited time and resources, many faculty members benefit from the flexibility of learning and teaching enhancement from home.

UoF Lesson Disciplines

Image of UoF Disciplines 1UoF's disciplines 2UoF disciplines 3UoF’s 13 different lesson disciplines. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Today, University of Fashion offers over 550 lessons across 13 disciplines, including Draping, Sewing, Patternmaking, Accessories, Childrenswear, Menswear, Knits, Product Development, CAD Fashion Art, CAD Patternmaking, Fashion Business, and a wide range of Fashion Lectures covering topics such as A.I for Fashion Design, Costume History, Color Theory, Textile Design, Fabric Studies, Sustainable Design, and many more. We support hundreds of fashion students worldwide while also helping educators broaden their teaching scope.

Testimonials

Don’t just take our word for it—explore some of what our students and educators have to say.

Just a few of our many testimonials. (Image Credit: University of Fashion)

Complement not Replacement

It is important to note that University of Fashion was founded as a complement to, not a replacement for, fashion college education. Our mission was to inspire anyone interested in a career in the fashion industry and to preserve the art & craft of fashion for current and future generations. As we celebrate our 18th anniversary, we are proud that we have succeeded in being the first and largest online fashion education resource, not only for aspiring designers, current fashion school students and teachers, but as a resource for anyone who is curious about a fashion career.

 

The Anatomy of Style: Measuring the Modern Man

Measuring the Male Body Lesson poster frame

UoF’s lesson on measuring 93points of the male body. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Before you can jump into designing and pattern drafting menswear masterpieces, you’ll need to master the fine art of measuring the male form—accurately, that is. In our lesson Measuring the Male Body, our renowned bespoke menswear designer/instructor/tailor extraordinaire, Rishabh Manocha, demonstrates how to measure 93 key points on a real, live male body—from the very top of his head right down to his toes (yes, all 93).

Measuring Points Diagrams

 

Measuring points diagram

One of six downloadable color-coded diagrams to assist in the measurement-taking process (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Measuring Points Charts

Measuring Points ChartsOne of seven downloadable chart pages that correspond to our color-coded measuring point diagrams. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

You’ll discover the essential measurement points used in creating bespoke garments and professional tech packs, along with downloadable charts and diagrams to keep you on track. Mr. Manocha also reveals the tools of the trade, including the mysteriously scientific-looking goniometer (trust us, it’s cooler than it sounds).

Global Men’s Size Range Chart

mens's global size range chart

University of Fashion Global Men’s Size Range Chart. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

And just when you think you’ve seen it all, Mr. Manocha adds a comprehensive downloadable Global Men’s Size Range Chart covering U.S. sizes 34–54 and their European and Asian equivalents. Consider this your passport to understanding menswear and entering the wonderfully precise—and occasionally tape-measure-wielding—world of bespoke fashion.

But there’s More

By the time you’ve completed your study of male figure measurement, you won’t merely comprehend the fluent geometry of the male form—you’ll glide through spec sheets and tech packs with the practiced ease of a professional who understands precisely where every millimeter resides, and, with just a hint of satisfaction, exactly why it should. And ready to tackle our 11-part menswear drafting series.

UoF menswear drafting series

UoF’s men’s pattern-drafting series:

 Measuring The Male Body, Drafting A Men’s Upper Body Block, Drafting A Men’s Shirt Block, Drafting A Men’s Trouser Block, Drafting a Men’s Set-in Sleeve Sloper, Drafting A Men’s One-Piece Jacket Sleeve From Measurements, Drafting A Men’s Pleated Trouser, Drafting A Men’s Hoodie, Drafting A Men’s Upper Body Jacket Block, Drafting A Men’s Classic 2-Button Single-Breasted Jacket, and  Drafting A Men’s Jacket Lining, Facing & Interfacings.

The Quiet Elegance of Love

With Men’s Fall/Winter 2026/27 fashion week behind us, the season’s prevailing message was clear: softness is strength. Designers embraced unstructured tailoring, featherlight jackets, relaxed trousers, and oversized shirts and knits with fluid, rounded shoulders — silhouettes that favored ease over rigidity. One couldn’t help but see these trends as an unspoken tribute to Giorgio Armani, who passed away on September 4, 2025, at the age of 91.

1-Sergio Galleotti & Armani

Sergio Galeotti and Giorgio Armani co-founders of the Armani brand in 1975 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

When Armani died, the world mourned the loss of more than a designer — it lost a man who built an empire on subtlety, restraint, and human warmth. Yet those who knew him best understood that behind the measured confidence and quiet brilliance of his craft stood a constant, steady love: First with his co-founder Sergio Galeotti (1945-1985) and then with Leo Dell’Orco, his “right‑hand man” and now creative director of Armani menswear.

Leo Dell’Orco and Giorgio Armani

Leo Dell’Orco and Giorgio Armani (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

For over half a century, Leo was not only Armani’s partner but also his closest collaborator, the man who understood that Giorgio’s minimalist perfection was never cold — it was intimate. Their relationship was private, even quiet, yet it informed everything the Armani brand became. Together, they cultivated a vision rooted in emotional intelligence — clothes that whispered, never shouted; tailoring that respected the body, not the ego.

Leo, who began working with Armani in the 1970s, became the silent architect of the designer’s most enduring codes. Where Giorgio articulated purity and proportion, Leo safeguarded the soul of the brand. Their dialogue — both personal and creative — was one of continuous refinement. Every softened shoulder, every whisper of silk, every measured tone of taupe felt like a conversation between them, an unspoken understanding turned tangible.

Armani collection FW 2026/27

Armani Fall/Winter 2026/27 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

Now, as the world looks toward the Spring 2026–2027 menswear collection — the first conceived entirely under Leo’s direction since Armani’s passing — the clothes themselves feel like a eulogy written in fabric. Reviewers have called it a “silent ode” to Armani, but perhaps it is better understood as a love letter — one from Leo to the man who taught the world that elegance is not about attention, but about affection.

Armani collection f/W 2026/27Armani Fall/Winter 2026/27 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

The collection avoids spectacle. Instead, it returns to Armani’s earliest language: clean linen blazers, sculpted trousers, muted desert tones, and that unmistakable sense of ease. There are hints of mourning — a softness in the cut, a delicacy in the color gradients, as if the garments are woven with memory. Yet amid the restraint, there is light: glimpses of hope, renewal, and simple devotion.

Armani 2025

Giorgio Armani 2025 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

In the end, Armani’s greatest creation may not have been a jacket or a silhouette, but a life lived alongside two people who shared his understanding of beauty — that quiet confidence and serenity born not from fame, but from love. The Spring 2026–2027 season stands as an eloquent testament to that belief: that love, like great design, endures through form, line, and time.

Bespoke Tailoring: A Lost Art?

 Tailoring a suit & tools

Last week’s social media explosion of images from the MET Gala, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style, raised the question, “what truly is the state of bespoke tailoring today?”

In this week’s blog, I’ll delve into the art of bespoke tailoring and explore how, thanks to events like the MET exhibition, and the passion of some very skilled craftspeople, it is far from becoming a relic of the past.

The world of bespoke menswear tailoring is rich with tradition, artistry, and innovation. Whether you’re seeking the timeless elegance of Savile Row, the soft tailoring of Naples, or the contemporary flair of modern ateliers, there are standout tailors across the globe who consistently deliver exceptional craftsmanship and personalized service. Here are some of the finest bespoke tailors for men (and women), each offering a unique approach to sartorial excellence.

Huntsman & Sons (Savile Row)
Co head cutter at Huntsman Dario Carnera
Dario Carnera, Co-Head Cutter at Huntsman London. (Image credit HuntsmanSavileRow.com)

 

Huntsman & Sons is one of Savile Row’s most storied houses, celebrated for its structured, clean lines and impeccable British tailoring. Their heritage dates back to 1849, and they have dressed royalty, celebrities, and discerning gentlemen worldwide. Huntsman’s signature one-button jacket and strong silhouette set it apart, making it a top choice for those seeking classic English refinement. According to Dario Carnera, Co-Head Cutter, “More than just experience, crafting a bespoke suit is also about having the cutters’ ‘rock of eye“, referring to a process of making clothes that relies on the eye — that is, feeling — more than measurements.

Oswald Boateng (Savile Row) 

Oswald Boateng- Couture bespoke tailor (Image credit: OzwaldBoateng.com)

Since the early 1980s, Ozwald Boateng has championed the idea that tailoring is more than a craft. It is identity. It is power. It is heritage. From the streets of London to the ateliers of Savile Row, Boateng brought a fresh perspective to classic British tailoring. He introduced bold colours, intricate linings, and a modern silhouette that spoke to a new generation. For the first time, the suit became a symbol not only of style but also of personal and cultural pride. In 1995, he became the first Black tailor to open a store on Savile Row, breaking boundaries and setting a new standard for inclusion and creativity in British fashion. His work attracted a global clientele—from Hollywood icons to heads of state—each drawn to the idea that a suit could tell a story far beyond fabric and thread. On May 13th 2025, Angeline Jolie announced a designer residency for Boateng at her fashion studio, Atelier Jolie, in Manhattan.

Rubinacci (Naples)
tailor at Rubinacci Naples

Rubinacci is based in Naples (Image credit: Ribinacci.com)

Founded by Gennaro Rubinacci in 1932, Rubinacci is synonymous with Neapolitan tailoring, offering a softer, more relaxed fit that’s both comfortable and stylish. Their expertise in lightweight construction and vibrant styling appeals to those who want Italian flair without sacrificing sophistication. Rubinacci’s strength lies in its ability to blend tradition with personality, making each suit a true reflection of its wearer. By 1962, his son Mariano took the helm and today his grandson Luca Rubinacci is creative director.

Cifonelli (Paris)

Image ofLorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli
Cifonelli bespoke suits are made entirely by hand in their Paris workshop overseen by Lorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli. (Image credit: Cifonelli.com)
Founded in 1880 by Guiseppe Cifonelli in Rome, the brand later established itself in Paris. Cifonelli is revered for its Parisian elegance, characterized by a unique shoulder construction and meticulous finishing. The brand combines French finesse with Italian softness resulting in garments that are both structured and supremely comfortable. Their bespoke suits can be priced up to $8,000.
B&Tailor (Seoul)
Chad Park of B&Tailor
Chad Park of B&Tailor fitting a bespoke suit (Image credit” B&Tailor Instagram)
B&Tailor was founded in 1980 by Jung Yul Park and quickly made a name for himself for his blend of classic and contemporary bespoke tailoring, executed with precision by skilled Korean artisans. The house is known for its flattering cuts, superb craftsmanship, and now, under the direction of Park’s sons Chad and Chang, deliver bespoke quality to a younger, style-conscious clientele.
JB Clothiers (Los Angeles) 
image if Jerry Bakhchyan of JB ClothiersJerry Bakhchyan owner/founder of JB Clothiers Los Angeles (Image credit: JBClothiers.com)
JB Clothiers was founded in 1997 by Jerry Bakhchyan, an immigrant who came to this country with a dream to build a lasting legacy-a family business that not only reflects his heritage but also his love for creating impeccably tailored clothing. JB Clothiers offers a highly personalized bespoke experience in Los Angeles, using high-end imported fabrics and meticulous tailoring. Their reputation for perfection and attentive service makes them a standout for those seeking custom suits in the U.S. Clients praise the fit and finish, and the shop’s modern approach is ideal for anyone wanting a blend of tradition and contemporary style.
Rishabh Manocha (New York) 
Rishabh Manocha buttoning suit jacket

NYC-based bespoke tailor & UoF instructor, Rishabh Manocha (Image credit: @kirktruman)

University of Fashion is proud and fortunate to have NYC-based bespoke tailor Rishabh Manocha, the creator of our 13-part menswear series, whose passion and respect for bespoke craftsmanship has made him one of UOF’s most popular instructors. Rishabh established his eponymous label in 2017. An alum of Parsons School of Design and Central Saint Martins, he credits his education with the tailors on Savile Row for the technical soundness that complements his conceptual designs. Rishabh is considered one of New York’s promising, new sustainable tailors.

View Rishabh’s UOF menswear lessons: Measuring the Male Body, Drafting a Men’s Upper Body Block, Drafting a Men’s Shirt Block, Drafting a Men’s Trouser Block, Drafting a Men’s Set-in Sleeve Sloper, Drafting a Men’s One-piece Jacket Sleeve from Measurements, Drafting a Men’s Pleated Trouser, Drafting a Men’s Upper Body Jacket Block, Drafting a Men’s Hoodie, Drafting a Men’s Classic 2-Button Single-Breasted Jacket, Besom/Jetted Flap Pocket, Drafting a Men’s Jacket Lining, Facing & Interfacings, Drafting a Men’s Two-Piece Jacket Sleeve.

There are many more bespoke establishments such as Anderson & Sheppard, Henry Poole, Gieves & Hawkes, can you name more? 

Fashion Portfolio Series: Menswear

image of UoF's menswear art lessonsUniversity of Fashion’s menswear drawing lessons  taught by Professor Steven Broadway (FIT & Parsons). (Image credit: UniversityofFashion.com)

If you are a current fashion student preparing your menswear portfolio for the job market, or an aspiring designer getting your portfolio ready for a fashion college application, or a current fashion designer looking to update your existing portfolio, do we have the right lessons for YOU! Professor Steven Broadway has been teaching at Parsons and at Fashion Institute of Technology for more than 15 years. He has helped students create some of the most amazing portfolios that speak to today’s fashion industry. His men’s fashion figures are edgy and contemporary. There is no doubt that your portfolio will benefit from watching his lessons.

UoF lessons on portfolio for college application and job

Ask any job recruiter in the fashion industry or any fashion college admissions director and they will say the same thing…your portfolio speaks volumes. A great portfolio will get you an interview, with a lackluster portfolio you will probably be passed over). And, what you include in your portfolio is much more than pretty pictures. Hear from our experts by viewing our Portfolio Tips for Fashion College Admissions lesson by Professor Lauren Zodel (FIT) and Creating a Professional Fashion Portfolio by Michi Raab (former Ralph Lauren recruiter). (Image credit: Universiutyoffashion.com)

 

Getting Started

If you are brand new to drawing the male fashion figure, we have several lessons that cover various male fashion poses, such as the Drawing the Male Contapposto Pose. In this lesson we teach you how to map the male figure with what is known in the industry as a 10-head proportion. You will learn body proportion, how to draw the ‘S’ curve of the body in motion and all about muscle placement.

 

how to draw a male contrapposto pose image

University of Fashion’s lesson, Drawing the Male Contapposto Pose. by Fan Wu (former Parsons instructor). (Image credit UniversityofFashion.com)

 

 

MILAN S/S 2025 RUNWAY SECRETS DEMYSTFIED

 

Collars by Luke & Lucie Meier’s Spring/Summer 2025 Collection for Jil Sander in Milan (Image credit: Vogue.com)

Collars by Luke & Lucie Meier’s Spring/Summer 2025 Collection for Jil Sander in Milan (Image credit: Vogue.com)

Most designers that watch runway shows during fashion month (NYC, London, Milan and Paris) often get inspired. When they see a particular look or design detail, it can also spark the question, “I wonder how they made that?”

This blogpost is a continuation of our coverage of fashion month and this time, we’re covering Milan Fashion Week, specifically the Spring Summer 2025 collection of the design duo, Luke & Lucie Meier, the brains behind the Jil Sander label. In our new series called “How Did They Make That?” we point to specific lessons in the University of Fashion video library where you can learn how a particular look or design detail is either draped, drafted or sewn.

Jil Sander
Collars

Luke & Lucie Meier’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Jil Sander was a study in collars, blazers & trouser and faux a& genuine leather. Their collars included the shirt collar, the banded collar and the classic Peter Pan. Check out our lessons on how to draft these and other collar variations. For example, our Peter Pan collar lesson features three different types of collar stand: a one-inch roll, a half inch roll, and a flat version (as pictured in the Jil Sander look top right above). To see a lesson preview of each lesson, click on the lesson links below.

University of Fashions collar lessons: Shirt collar, Banded collar and Peter Pan collar University of Fashions collar lessons: Shirt collar, Banded collar and Peter Pan collar

Blazers, Trousers, Patent Leather & Genuine Leather

Men’s and women’s blazers & trousers plus faux & genuine leather looks by Luke & Lucie Meier for Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2025 collection in Milan (Image credit: Vogue.com)

Oversized blazers have been a ‘thing’ for several seasons, for both women’s and men’s. And nobody does it better than the team at Jil Sander. Classic, roomy and chic as can be.

Their genuine leather and patent leather pieces are very hot, hot, hot! Learn how to draft these looks and work with these materials by viewing the lesson links below.

UoF lessons: Drafting a Women’s Jacket, Drafting a Women’s Pleated Trouser, Drafting a Men’s Classic 2-Button Single Breasted Blazer, Drafting a Men’s Pleated Trouser, Leather Sewing Techniques and Faux Leather, Suede, Patent Leather Sewing Tips.

UoF lessons: Drafting a Women’s Jacket, Drafting a Women’s Pleated Trouser, Drafting a Men’s Classic 2-Button Single Breasted Blazer, Drafting a Men’s Pleated Trouser, Leather Sewing Techniques and Faux Leather, Suede, Patent Leather Sewing Tips.

Do you have a fav look from Milan Fashion Week?

London Fashion Week How’d They Make That?

JW Anderson's collection of half circle skirts and bodices

JW Anderson’s London Spring/Summer 2025 Collection – minimal mini-silhouettes (Image credit: Vogue.com)

Do you ever watch a runway show and ask yourself “I wonder how they made that?”

This blogpost is a continuation of our fashion month coverage, this time London! In this post, I single out the work of two London designers, JW Anderson and Erdem and then point to specific lessons on the University of Fashion website where you can learn how a particular look or design detail was either draped, drafted or sewn.

JW ANDERSON

 Half Circle Mini Skirt & Tank Top

JW Anderson’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection was an homage to his sister. In his post-show debrief, Anderson talked about “girly independence”. His clothes clearly focused on young people’s attitudes and how the young  generation want to dress. His collection is a study in shape, simplicity, minimal mini-silhouettes and sexual fluidity. (see above and below images).JW Anderson's mini-half circle skirt looks
JW Anderson’s crewneck tank and half circle mini-skirt look (Image credit: Vogue.com)

To learn how to draft the above crewneck tank and half circle mini-skirt look, check out these UoF lessons:UoF lessons on drafting a hard circle skirt and crew neckline UoF lessons: Drafting a Crew Neckline for Knits and Drafting a Half Circle Skirt

Quarter Circle Dresses, Dirndl Sundresses, Bustier Bodices & Spaghetti Straps

JW Anderson designs for London Fashion Week 2025

JW Anderson’s quarter circle dresses, drop waist dirndl bustier sundresses with spaghetti straps (Image credit: Vogue.com)

JW Anderson continued to play with shape and circles by designing flirty dropped waist quarter-circle dresses and pretty dropped waist dirndl bustier sundresses with spaghetti straps.

To learn how to draft the above looks check out these UoF lessons:UoF JW Anderson - Quarter Circle Bustier dirndl spaghetti straps

UoF lessons: Drafting a Quarter Circle Skirt, Draping a Bustier Bodice, Draping a Yoke Dirndl Skirt and Sewing Spaghetti Straps

Minimal Min-dress ShiftsJW Anderson fashions for London Fashion WeekJW Anderson’s minimalist shift dresses (Image credit: Vogue.com)

Learn how to drape a classic shift dress. Then feel free to cinch it at the waist, shorten it or even add a hood!UoF lesson on Draoing a Shift Dress  UoF lesson: Draping a Shift Dress

ERDEM

Erdem designs for London Fashion Week

Erdem ‘s London Spring/Summer 2025-Spring Summer 2025 collection of beaded looks (Image credit: Vogue.com)

Designer Erdem Moralioglu was inspired by novelist Radclyffe Hall, whose book The Well of Loneliness (a kind LGBTQIA+ bible) was banned by the British government in 1928 for its portrayal of a female character called Stephen and her lover Mary. In fact, the title page of the book was sewn onto the cuff of every suit as badge of honor (see image top right).

Erdem’s extraordinarily bedazzling and sparkling crystal embroideries appeared throughout the collection on dresses, tunics, the bottom of capes, and strategically placed on coat shoulders and sleeves (see above images).

Whether you choose hand-beading or the use of a Tambour frame, we have several lessons that will inspire you to add embellishments to your designs:UoF lessons on beading and embroideryUoF lessons: Beading Needle Embroidery, Tambour Beading and Tambour Embroidery 

 

So, tell us, is there a look that you are going to want to try your hand at? Draping, drafting, sewing or beading?

 

Celebrating Hispanic & Latino Fashion Designers – The Newbies

Images of Hispanic Designers Hispanic Heritage Month (September 15-October 15) is a celebration of the Hispanic and Latino community’s contributions to the United States. Now in its 36th year, then-President Ronald Reagan signed into law the 30-day celebration in 1988 after it was originally established as Hispanic Week in 1968. In this blog post, we’ll recognize several of the newest Hispanic designers and how this new cadre of Latinos are slowly making a name for themselves. Many do so through clothes that honor their roots.

DID YOU KNOW?

‘Hispanic’ and ‘Latino’ are often used interchangeably. To some, they mean two different things, i.e. ‘Hispanic’ referring to people who speak Spanish or who are descended from Spanish-speaking populations, while ‘Latino’ refers to people who are from or descended from people from Cuba, Mexico, Puerto Rico, South or Central America. However, in the U.S. Hispanic Heritage Month includes both Hispanics and Latino.

By celebrating Hispanic Heritage Month, we recognize and appreciate the significant role that Hispanics and Latinos have played in shaping the cultural, educational, economic, and social fabric of not just the U.S. but of the world at-large. Their design traditions are a constant source of inspiration, often incorporating vibrant colors, intricate patterns and bold shapes. These traditions tell stories of resilience, history, sustainability and cultural identity.

Brenda Equihua – Mexican-American

Brenda Equihua’s Mexican-inspired cobija blanket coats & jackets (Image Credit: Brenda Equihua.com)

Brenda Equihua grew up in a working-class Mexican household in Santa Barbara. After graduating from Parsons School of Design, she spent years working as a luxury women’s wear designer for brands like Monique Lhuillier, Tadashi Shoji, Juan Carlos Obando before opening her own label where she turned Mexican cobijas, (San Marcos blankets often thought of as tacky with images of Aztec warriors, Virgin Marys, lions, pandas and unicorns) into luxury-priced coats and jackets. For Equihua, these repurposed blankets felt fresh and old, new and nostalgic and their over-the-top flashiness caught the attention of celebs like Lil Nas X and Young Thug. Her work is considered artifacts of culture.

Jonathan Cohen- Mexican-Americanimage of Johnathan Cohen's tulle embroidered coat

Jonathan Cohen’s embroidered tulle coat Spring 2024 (Image Credit: JonathanCohen.com)

Born in San Diego to Mexican-Jewish parents, Jonathan Cohen grew up “straddling” both sides of the border. His collections are often inspired by his Mexican heritage, other times, it happens subconsciously. For his Spring 2024 collection, he did an embroidered tulle coat in collaboration with Indian ready-to-wear label Péro. Cohen noted that “When the coat came back, everyone commented that it would be something that Frida Kahlo would wear. I wasn’t thinking of Frida or Mexico when making the coat, but she (and my heritage) are so embedded in me, that it just naturally comes out”. Cohen is among the new generation of designers that offer both creativity and innovation through upcycled products. Cohen’s ensembles have been worn by actors Lupita Nyong’o, Kate Hudson and Former First Lady Michelle Obama.

Isabel Perez – Quito, EcuadorIsabel-Perez-Hera-Image-Brooklyn Jacket Isabel Perez, Hera- patchwork ‘Brooklyn Jacket’ inspired by Patti Smith’s book, Just Kids (Image Credit: harpersbazaar.com)

Isabel Perez is the founder of Hera Studio, an Ecuadorian brand that is designed and manufactured in Quinto, Ecuador using natural fibers, deadstock fabrics and vintage textiles from the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s. Originally trained as an architect, Perez pivoted to fashion choosing sustainable design in bright colors that reflect her Ecuadorian culture. She believes that to be a successful fashion brand, you don’t need to be in a major fashion capital. Perez is also part of Semiya, a fashion marketplace that proudly represents Latin American talent.

Johanna Ortiz – Cali, ColombiaJohanna Ortiz dress images Johanna Ortiz Columbia-inspired collection 2024 (Image Credit: JohannaOrtiz.com)

Johanna Ortiz is a Columbian-born designer who studied fashion design in Florida before rounding out her formal fashion design education in New York and Paris. She returned to Colombia with a thirst for creating her signature ruffles and off-the-shoulder silhouettes that capture the spirit of Latin America. Ortiz boasts that 90% of her collection is made in house, thus fulfilling her mission to produce ethically and locally. To give back to the community, her label places high priority on working with indigenous communities and women in Colombia. In 2016, she launched Escuela Johanna Ortiz, an onsite training program to develop professional-level seamstress and high-end embroidery skills to enhance talent and promote the inclusion of vulnerable communities to improve their quality of life and create personal empowerment.

Annaiss Yucra – Lima, PeruAnnaiss Yucra Peruvian -inspired collection 2024

Annaiss Yucra’s Peruvian -inspired collection (Image Credit: AnnaissYucra.com)

Isabel Annaiss Yucra Mancilla was born and raised in Lima, Peru, studied at Central Saint Martins and graduated with honors from Nottingham Trent University. Annaiss made a name for herself globally thanks to her international recognition in various competitions and the social programs in Peru that she became involved in, such as creative workshops with indigenous communities, men in prison and aspiring students. She is a third-generation indigenous woman which has made an impact on her as a young child.  Her respect to the Pachamama (Mother Earth in Quechua) and her love of Peruvian textile work is a constant source of inspiration. In collaboration with a small community in the highlands of Peru, whose livelihood is being negatively affected by the growth of fast fashion, her brand, Isabel Annaiss, creates up-cycled textiles woven from a wide range of textile waste collected from her family-owned factory.

Willy Chavarria – Irish & Mexican-AmericanWilly Chavarria collection 2024

Willy Chavarria SS 2024 (Image Credit: Selwyn Tungol for Hypebeast.com)

Chavarria was born to an Irish-American mother and a Mexican-American father in Fresno, California. He studied graphic design at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco, and through an internship in the shipping department at Joe Boxer, worked his way up to a design position. He later assumed the designer role for Voler, a cycling and multi-sport apparel company and then for RLX, Ralph Lauren’s diffusion cycling brand. Chavarria often mixes his own cultural influences with street influences and combines them with elegant tailoring references of the ’30s and ’40s. His designs often comment on the American dream and reference the Pachuco style (the name given to Mexican Americans who wore zoot suits — baggy dress pants and long-tailed coats during the 1940s while facing violence in Los Angeles and San Antonio). Chavarria’s fame has netted him clients like Bad Bunny and his current role as Senior Vice President of Design at Calvin Klein. 

Patricio Campillo – Mexico City, MexicoPatricio Campillo collection 2024

Patricio Campillo collection 2024 (Image Credit: PatricioCampillo.com)

Patricio Campillo was born and raised in Mexico City, Mexico. With degrees in communication and marketing he worked in the Parisian luxury market before founding his menswear brand in 2017. Campillo’s designs are influenced by childhood experiences, the contemporary Mexican artistic wave and traditional Charro culture (iconic Mexican cowboys). His collections recontextualize Mexican cultural heritage with a focus on sustainable practices. Campillo was a semi-finalist for the 2024 LVMH Prize and he will make his NYFW runway debut on Sept. 7, 2024.

Dayana Molina, Nalimo – BrazilDayana Molina Collection 2024

Dayana Molina is a descendant of the Fulni-ô tribe in Northeast Brazil and the Aymara ethnicities in Peru. Before her foray into fashion design, Dayana launched Brazil’s first indigenous culture magazine, Oka. In 2017, she launched her brand Nalimo, drawing inspiration from her Indigenous heritage, creating fashion pieces that challenge established norms, such as redefining gender roles and celebrating diverse body types, all from a decolonial perspective. In Dayana Molina’s words, “fashion is a potent political statement.” Through her activist brand, she exemplifies collaboration and inclusivity. Her mission is to empower women at every production stage, in fact, her entire team consists of women, including Indigenous women, single mothers, LGBTQI+ individuals, and more, all working together to shape a vision of a more equitable and sustainable future. Molina is also known for creating the #decolonizeamoda movement, inspiring structural changes in the global fashion marketplace.

So, tell us, have you ever used your heritage as inspiration in your designs?

 

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