Category "How It’s Made"

new lesson image: Drafting an Asymmetric knit top

Announcing Our Newest Lesson: Drafting an Asymmetric Neckline for Knits

Francesca Sterlacci - August 22, 2026 - cut & sew knits, How It's Made, Knits, New University of Fashion Lessons, Pattern Making

UoF’s newest lesson: Drafting an Asymmetric Neckline for Knits—Part of our cut & sew knit-drafting series. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Get ready to bring a little drama to your knits—because this lesson is all about drafting an asymmetric neckline that says, “I woke up fabulous.” You’ll learn how to create that glamorous one-shoulder moment that’s been stealing the spotlight on every runway (and possibly your next Zoom meeting).

Reading the Sketch

Reading the sketch and planning the top’s proportions. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

We’ll decode the fashion sketch like true design detectives—figuring out shoulder width, that tricky neckline drop, and how far your drama (ahem, your neckline) should go.

Using ¼” clear flat elastic cut ½” smaller than the neckline to stabilize the neckline. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Oh, and because nobody likes a droopy neckline, we’ll share a pro tip to keep yours from stretching out while sewing. Think of it as a little elasticity therapy for your top.

But There’s More

University of Fashion’s 3-part knit sewing series. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Become a knit whisperer with our lessons on picking the perfect seam allowances, plus hem and neckline finishes that make your stretchy designs behave like they actually want to be sewn.

Be sure to check out our other cut & sew knit drafting lessons:

Drafting a Women’s Fitted Stable Knit T-Shirt from Measurements

Drafting A Knit Camisole

Drafting an Off-Shoulder Knit Top

Drafting An Off-Shoulder Knit Top with Cuff – 2 Variations

Drafting a Built-up Neckline for Knits

Drafting a Cowl Neckline for Knits

Drafting a Knit Halter Tank with a Racerback

Drafting a Boat Neckline for Knits

Drafting a Collared Neckline for Knits

Drafting a Hoodie Knit Top

Announcing Our Newest Lesson: Drafting a V-Neck Knit Top – 2 variations

Francesca Sterlacci - July 25, 2026 - cut & sew knits, How It's Made, Knits, New University of Fashion Lessons, Pattern Making

The newest lesson in our Cut & Sew knit drafting series, Drafting a V-neck Knit Top – 2 Variations. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

A V neckline creates a bold, angular break at the top of the garment, bossily redirecting the eye straight down the center front and tricking it into seeing a longer neck and torso than higher necklines like crew, scoop, or square ever will—basically the visual equivalent of standing a little taller without having to enter tense diplomatic talks with your shoe collection.

This lesson new lesson is your backstage pass to drafting a V‑neck knit top in two flavors: one sleek, clean-finished V, and one snazzy mitered V-neckband for when you’re feeling extra sporty.

Reading the V-Neck Sketch

Planning the V-neckline: neck drop and distance away from the neck. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

You’ll use the fashion sketches like a GPS, zeroing in on details such as how deep the front V drops and exactly how far the neckline scoots in from the shoulder/neck intersection.

Reading the V-Neck with Band Sketch

Planning the V-neckline with neck & armhole band finish. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

When you graduate to the V-neckline with a neck and armhole band finish, you’re basically signing up for a tiny knit-fabric science experiment. You still have to plot your neck drop and the distance from the base of the neck like a responsible pattern engineer, but now there’s extra drama: how wide should those neck and armhole bands be, and are they going to behave nicely or stretch out like overcooked spaghetti the minute you stitch them down?

Stretching the neckband a bit as it is guided along the neckline draft. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

To create the pattern neck & armhole band you must cut a trial band whose length equals the total of your front and back neckline, measured on the cross grain, and whose height is double your desired finished neckband width, cut on the length grain. Then fold the band in half and stretch that brave little test band along the drafted neckline, and reduce the band so that the band is a wee bit smaller than the paper draft. You’ll do the same for the armhole band. This helps stabilize the neckline and armhole and provides a clean finish.

Finale

Drafting a V‑neck knit top in two irresistible flavors—one smooth and sophisticated, the other boasting a snazzy mitered neckband—is basically your VIP all-access pass to the secret world of cut & sew knits. Think of it as fashion’s version of discovering the magician’s trick… but with fabric, not rabbits.

Announcing Our Newest Lesson: Drafting a Turtleneck Knit Top – 2 Variations

Francesca Sterlacci - June 27, 2026 - cut & sew knits, How It's Made, Knits, New Lessons, New University of Fashion Lessons, Pattern Making

UoF’s latest lesson, Drafting a Turtleneck Knit Top – 2 Variations, part of a cut & sew knit-drafting series. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Today’s lesson is all about the mighty turtleneck — the fashion world’s version of a warm neck hug. We’ll be drafting not one, but two variations: one with a neckline seam (for those who like a bit of drama) and one that’s all-in-one (for the no-fuss minimalists). By the end, you’ll know exactly how to decode a turtleneck sketch like a pro.

Reading the Seamed Turtleneck Knit Top Sketch

First things first. Start by analyzing the sketch, in this case, the turtleneck with the neckline seam. Determine crucial details such as the front neck drop, how far that neckline runs from shoulder to neck, the center back drop, and of course, the turtleneck height. Because yes, in fashion, a few millimeters can mean the difference between “chic Audrey Hepburn” and “help, I can’t breathe!”

Reading the All-in-One Turtleneck Knit Top Sketch

Analyze the all-in-one turtleneck sketch for proportion and measurements. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

When planning your all-in-one turtleneck knit top, it’s time for some big decisions. First up: How tall will your turtleneck stand? Are you going for elegant-and-refined or full-on “I’m hiding from humanity” height? Next, check if your fabric stretches enough to slip over your head—without ripping seams or your pride. If your fabric’s on the stubborn side, congratulations: you’ve just earned yourself a zipper at the back! Just know that with a zipper, the turtleneck won’t slouch dreamily—it’ll stand more like a soldier on duty. Finally, measure how far that neckline travels from shoulder to neck and how much the center back dips—because even turtlenecks like to keep their proportions in check.

Do You Have Your Stretch Degree?

If you haven’t already mastered the mysterious math of stretch ratios, check out our lessons Introduction to Knit Fabrics and Knit Fabric Principles. Because when your fabric bounces back like an overcaffeinated bungee cord, you’d better plan your design details accordingly.

Finale

In the end, designing your turtleneck is all about balance—between comfort and drama, structure and ease. Whether you choose a sleek, stand-up collar or a cozy, fold-over style, remember that every decision shapes both the look and the feel of your finished piece. After all, a well-planned turtleneck doesn’t just frame your face—it tells the world exactly how you’d like to be seen.

Announcing Our Newest Lesson: Drafting a Surplice Under Bust Knit Top

Francesca Sterlacci - May 23, 2026 - cut & sew knits, How It's Made, New Lessons, New University of Fashion Lessons, Pattern Making, Sewing

UoF’s newest lesson, Drafting a Surplice Under Bust Knit Top is part of a cut & sew knit drafting series. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Our latest cut & sew knit lesson has officially entered the chat — drum roll, please! It’s time to draft a Surplice Under Bust Knit Top. Equal parts sexy and sophisticated, this design wraps, flatters, and might just make Diane von Furstenberg’s iconic wrap dress a little nervous.

Reading the Sketch

Learning how to read a sketch— design details & proportions. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Once you’ve nailed drafting your knit sloper in our lesson Drafting a Women’s Fitted Stable Knit Sloper from Measurements, you’ve basically unlocked “boss level” in cut & sew knits. You are now officially cleared for takeoff into drafting land.

First stop: reading the surplice knit top sketch like the fashion detective you are. Study those proportions—the front neck drop, how far that neckline is from the neck in both front and back, where the wrap point hits on the body, and how much shirring is partying at the side seam.

Sewing Knits

University of Fashion’s 3-part knit sewing series. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

When it comes to sewing and taming cut & sew knits, consider us your personal knit wranglers. Our 3-part series walks you through choosing just-right seam allowances, plus hem and neckline finishes that help your stretchy creations behave like they actually asked to be sewn.

Be sure to check out our other cut & sew knit drafting lessons for more techniques and practice with knit drafting:

Drafting a Knit Halter Tank with a Racerback

Drafting A Knit Camisole

Drafting an Off-Shoulder Knit Top

Drafting a Built-up Neckline for Knits

Drafting a Cowl Neckline for Knits

Drafting a Boat Neckline for Knits

Drafting a Collared Neckline for Knits

Drafting a Hoodie Knit Top

Drafting An Off-Shoulder Knit Top with Cuff – 2 Variations

Announcing Our Newest Lesson: Drafting a Square Neckline for Knits

Francesca Sterlacci - April 25, 2026 - cut & sew knits, How It's Made, Knits, New Lessons, New Lessons, New University of Fashion Lessons, Pattern Making, Sewing

UoF’s newest lesson in our cut & sew knit series: Drafting a Square Neckline for Knits (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Our latest lesson continues our journey into the wild world of cut & sew knit pattern drafting — where fabric stretches, stitches dance, and woven rules simply don’t apply. Drafting for a square neckline for wovens is one thing, but working with knits? That’s a whole different animal.

It All Starts with a Knit Sloper

UoF’s knit sloper lesson: Drafting a Women’s Fitted Stable Knit T-shirt from Measurements from which a camisole & racerback tank top is drafted. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Attention all knit newbies! One of the biggest rookie moves in fashion history? Thinking you can just grab your woven sloper and call it a day for a knit project. Nope. Nada. Big, stretchy mistake!

Our lesson, Drafting a Women’s Fitted Stable Knit T-shirt Sloper from Measurements – is your golden ticket to the magical realm of cut & sew knits. Once you’ve drafted this powerhouse sloper, you’ll unlock a whole wardrobe of possibilities: racerback tanks, camis, body-skimming tees—basically, your dream closet waiting to happen. Oh, and did we mention it’s also the foundation for chic knit dresses and jumpsuits? You’ll be unstoppable (and fabulously comfy) in no time.

UoF’s other knit neckline lessons (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Not only will you master the art of drafting a square neckline knit top (hello, elegant minimalism!), but you’ll also unlock a whole neckline buffet of options. Feeling nautical? Try the boat neck. Want some drama? Go for a cowl. Prefer a sleek, built-up look or a little off-the-shoulder sass? We’ve got you covered—all using the same trusty knit sloper. It’s basically neckline mix-and-match magic!

Reading a Sketch

Reading the sketch to plan the neck drop, the width of square neck and the distance from the neck. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Once you’ve nailed your knit sloper, you’re officially ready to dive into drafting the square neck knit top—cue the dramatic runway music! Step one: channel your inner designer and read the sketch (yes, like it’s the latest plot twist in your favorite book). Study those proportions—the neck drop, the width across the front neck drop, and how far that neckline sits from the neck.

Sewing Tips

Sewing tip on how to keep the square neckline and armhole from stretching (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Knits have a mind of their own when it comes to necklines and armholes, so think of this as your “behavior management” strategy. Cut a piece of ¼” wide clear flat elastic just ½” shorter than the neckline and armhole circumferences and stitch it in as you sew—like a tiny backstage bouncer keeping everything from stretching out of control.

More About Knits

UoF’s knit lecture lessons: Introduction to Knit Fabrics and Knit Fabric Principles (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Thirsty for more knit know-how? Pull up a chair, because the stretch saga continues.

If you haven’t already untangled the mysterious math of stretch ratios, check out our lessons Introduction to Knit Fabrics and Knit Fabric Principles—they’re like subtitles for what your fabric is trying to tell you. When your knit bounces back like an overcaffeinated bungee cord, you’ll want to plan those design details accordingly, not just cross your fingers and hope for the best.

Finale

And there you have it—your very own square-neck masterpiece, drafted with precision and just the right dose of fashion flair! Remember, every great designer started with a sloper and a little creative courage (plus maybe a few choice words at their ruler). Keep experimenting with shape, proportion, and personality, because once you’ve conquered knits, the world of stretch becomes your oyster—or should we say, your spandex runway.

The Art & Anatomy of Handsewn Buttonholes

Francesca Sterlacci - April 11, 2026 - Bespoke Tailoring, Couture Techniques, How It's Made, Sewing, Tailoring

University of Fashion’s 3-part series on creating handsewn buttonholes. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Fashion has its own language—and nowhere is that more delightfully apparent than in the art of handsewn buttonholes. If you’ve ever felt that couture insiders are speaking in code when they discuss their sewing tools, consider this your glossary moment. Better yet, Andrew Curwen’s handsewn buttonhole video series serves as your guide, translating each term into a skill you can master with confidence.

Creating a truly refined handsewn buttonhole begins with a carefully selected toolkit: polyester thread for basting, silk buttonhole twist, gimp, hymo, a #7 sharps needle, and an open-top thimble. Each element plays a distinct role in achieving that crisp, elevated finish.

Buttonhole Twist
This is the star of the process—the thread used to form the dense blanket stitches that define the buttonhole’s edge. Strong, smooth, and slightly lustrous, silk buttonhole twist is the couture standard. Whether you choose a matching shade for subtlety or a contrasting color for emphasis, this thread carries both the structure and the visual impact.

Gimp
Gimp is a thicker thread that sits beneath the buttonhole stitches, giving them dimension and a beautifully raised profile. While finding an exact color match can be challenging, Andrew Curwen offers an ingenious solution in his three-part series: a method for creating perfectly matched gimp, ensuring both precision and polish.

Hymo
Hymo is a hair canvas interfacing that provides essential internal support. Available in various weights and in both fusible and non-fusible options, it reinforces the fabric layers, helping the buttonhole maintain its shape and durability over time.

#7 Sharps Needle
Sharps are versatile hand-sewing needles with a sharp point and a round eye, available in sizes 1 through 12. For buttonholes, a size 7 strikes the ideal balance—fine enough for precise, tight stitches, yet sturdy enough to handle multiple layers.

Open-Top Thimble
An open-top metal thimble protects your finger while allowing greater sensitivity and control. It helps push the needle cleanly through the fabric, making it an essential tool for the repetitive, controlled motions required in buttonhole work.

The Process

images of the handsewn buttonhole-making process

The steps for making a Straight Handsewn Buttonhole: 1) baste & mark the buttonhole before slitting the buttonhole opening, 2) Twist silk buttonhole thread to create gimp, 3) baste gimp to slit, 4) blanket-stitching the buttonhole, 5) bar tacking one edge, 6) finished buttonhole.

Mastering handsewn buttonholes is as much about understanding your tools as it is about technique. With the right materials—and expert guidance from Andrew Curwen—you can transform what seems like a meticulous detail into a signature mark of craftsmanship. In the end, these small, deliberate stitches speak volumes, elevating a garment from simply made to truly exceptional.

Not a UoF Subscriber? Watch our Video Previews

Click on the link to view our video previews: Handsewn Straight Buttonholes, Handsewn Rounded Buttonholesand Handsewn Keyhole Buttonhole.

Announcing Our Newest Lesson: Draping a Princess Panel Sundress with Handkerchief Hem

Francesca Sterlacci - March 20, 2026 - Draping, How It's Made, New Lessons

UoF’s newest advanced draping lesson: Draping a Princess Panel Sundress with Handkerchief Hem (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Get ready for some pint-sized fashion magic! Our newest lesson, “Draping a Princess Panel Sundress with Handkerchief Hem,” is full of surprises—starting with the fact that we’re working on a half-scale dress form. We’ll be turning our mini masterpiece into a lively black-and-white check fabric that practically screams “picnic chic.” Perfect for a sunny day—or just for showing off your draping skills.

Working Half Scale

Full scale and half scale dress forms. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

In this lesson, you’ll get acquainted with the delightful world of half-scale draping—meaning your dress form is literally half the size of the real deal. Think of it as your fashion lab’s fun-sized version: less fabric, faster results, and zero guilt about creative experiments gone wild.

Madeleine Vionnet draping on a half scale dress form. (Image credit: Sewing: Beginner Techniques, University of Fashion, Laurence King Publishing).

And you’ll be in good company! The legendary Madeleine Vionnet—queen of the bias cut and all things drape—was known to perfect her genius designs on half-scale forms before committing to the full-size masterpiece.

Princess Panel Sundress with Handkerchief Hem illustration (Image credit: Miguel Angel Reyes for University of Fashion).

Before you even touch a dress form, you’ve got to crack the designer’s code — that mysterious sketch full of promise and proportions. Think of it as fashion detective work: studying how wide the sweep should be, where those flirty handkerchief points should drop, and making sure the sundress doesn’t end up a sundisaster. All this sleuthing happens before a single piece of muslin meets the mannequin.

Style Taping Design Lines

Style-taping the dress’s style lines. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Next up… style tape time! This is where you play fashion cartographer — mapping out the landscape of your design. You’ll mark out where those straps and that neckline will actually live (because guessing never ends well), pinpoint the princess seams like royal boundaries, and stake your claim at hip level. Only once your tape lines are perfect can the draping magic officially begin.

Front and back sundress: draped and notches marked on all pattern parts. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Once the dress has been draped, marked, and trued, and key notches added to all the sundress parts and panels, it’s time to place it back on the dress form to check the fit, before cutting it out in the fabric of your choice. In this case we chose a black and white check.

Front & Back of Princess Panel Sundress with Handkerchief Hem. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Now it’s showtime! As that checkered fabric comes to life on your half-scale form, you’ll see how every princess seam, playful hemline, and clever bias cut turns theory into pure design magic. By mastering draping at half scale, you’re not just saving fabric—you’re sharpening your creative instincts, building confidence, and learning to think like a true couturier. So, step back, admire your miniature masterpiece, and get ready to scale up your newfound skills to full-size glamour. After all, every great designer starts small—literally.

The Fine Art of Lace: From Alençon to Battenberg

Francesca Sterlacci - February 14, 2026 - Fashion History, How It's Made, Lacemaking, Sewing

Image background is an example of “whitework” lace. (Image credit: University if Fashion).

At the University of Fashion, we believe lace shouldn’t be terrifyingly mysterious — it should be fabulously mysterious.

In UoF’s lesson, Lacis — Lace Museum learn about types of laces, lace history and lacemaking tools. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Our lace lesson takes you on a little field trip (virtually, of course) to the enchanting Lacis Museum in Berkeley, California. There, Museum Director Erin Algeo will help lift the veil (pun absolutely intended) on the delicate art of lacemaking.

Erin Algeo- Lacis Lace Museum curator & UoF instructor. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

In our lesson, Lacis — Lace Museum, you’ll get up close and personal with lace history and the tools that look like they belong in both a sewing kit and a medieval torture chamber — because, well, lace is serious business.

Examples of 17th Century Men’s & Women’s lace collars.

By the end, you’ll be able to tell your Alençon from your Chantilly, your Battenberg from your Cluny, and maybe even drop “Point de Gaze” into conversation just to sound fancy.

The True Laces

Let’s start with the “real deal” of the lace world — the equivalent of haute couture. There are two types considered the true laces: bobbin lace and needle lace.

Bobbin Lace

Example of how Bobbin lace is made. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Bobbin lace is made on a pillow using bobbins that hold threads, which are then woven and knotted into mesmerizing patterns. Think “spider weaving after three espressos.”

Needle Lace

Example of how Needle lace is made. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Needle lace, on the other hand, is made entirely with — you guessed it — a needle and thread, using endless variations of the humble buttonhole stitch. Bobbin lace came second in history, but honestly, both techniques are so breathtaking you’ll forgive them for sometimes impersonating each other.

Wannabe Laces (But Still Fabulous)

Example of a Battenberg lace using tape lace technique. (Image credit: shannonbassano.substack.com)

Then we have the “wannabe” laces — not true by historical definition, but every bit as gorgeous. Case in point: Battenberg lace. You’ve seen it on vintage tablecloths, maybe even your great aunt’s Sunday best. These laces use tape lace techniques, with a pattern laid out in tape (once made by hand, now machine-stitched) and joined together with — you guessed it again — needle lace stitches. The result? A looping, romantic masterpiece that doesn’t mind being called a “wannabe.” After all, if imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, Battenberg deserves a standing ovation.

Our Lace-Sewing Lessons

UoF’s 3-part lace-sewing series: Lace Appliqué Blanket Stitch & Overcast Stitch and Lace Overlap Seam. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

University of Fashion also has a lace-sewing series. We’ll take you beyond simply stitching lace fabric—you’ll learn the couture-level sorcery behind sewing with lace. First, you’ll discover how to extract a motif from lace yardage (no magic wand required) and appliqué it onto silk organza or another fabric of your choice, using either a blanket hand stitch or an overcast technique—depending on the temperament of your lace.

Next, we’ll unveil the secret to creating a seamless lace seam—the kind that separates couture craftsmanship from the “craft fair” look. You’ll also master how to apply this technique to darts and other tricky areas to reduce bulk and preserve your lace motifs in all their delicate glory. These methods are the backbone of your bridal, evening, and lingerie designs that whisper couture elegance rather than shout assembly line.

Final Thoughts

So, whether you’re a lace novice or a seasoned stitch whisperer, by the end of this University of Fashion journey, you’ll see lace in a whole new light — not just as trim for collars and cuffs, but as an intricate language woven from history, patience, and a touch of magic. After all, behind every loop and twist is a story hundreds of years in the making — and now, it’s one you’ll recognize the next time you spot a bit of Alençon peeking out from a vintage gown or a whisper of Chantilly on the runway. Lace, mysterious? Absolutely. But now, fabulously so.

How’d They Make That?

Francesca Sterlacci - March 8, 2025 - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Events, Fashion Shows, How It's Made, New York Fashion Week, Trends

New York Fashion Week Fall 2025 – Christopher John Rodgers (Image credit: Fashionista.com)

If you’re a fashionista like me, watching runway shows during fashion week always gets me thinking, “how’d they make that”? Then I ask myself, “let me see whether we have a lesson at University of Fashion for that particular design detail, technique or silhouette”?

During New York Fashion Week Fall 2025, I was not only impressed with the work of designer Christopher John Rodgers, but saw many design details, techniques and silhouettes that we can teach you how to create.

SHAWL COLLAR

Shawl Collar by Christopher John Rodgers’ (Image credit: Fashionista.com)

Shawl collars are always a gorgeous design detail when used on blouses, dresses, jackets and coats. We have the perfect lesson to teach you how: Drafting a Shawl Collar & Variations.

REIMAGINED BALLOON SKIRTS

Image of Christopher John Rogers’ balloon skirt silhouette

The balloon, bubble or puffball skirt is defined by its voluminous silhouette and has appeared in different fashion eras especially during the 80s. This time it’s back with an amorphous, more creative edge. Learn how to drape this look in our lesson: Creative Draping- Strapless Taffeta Dress.

RUCHING & WAIST GATHERS

image of Christopher John Rodgers' ruched bodice & hip waist gathers

Christopher John Rodgers’ ruched bodice & waist gathers (Image credit: Fashionista.com)

Ruching is a design technique that involves gathering fabric along a seam to create texture or dimension. Learning what the appropriate gathering or shirring ratio for a particular fabric is key to the outcome. These UoF lessons will show you how ruching is done on a bodice and how to plan for gathers at the waistline: Creative Draping – The Art of Ruching and Gathered Skirt with Waistband.

BIAS COWL & HIP WAIST GATHERS

Image of Christopher John Rogers’ bias cowl neckline & hip waist gathers (Image credit: Fashionista.com)

Mastering the bias cut is an art form. Understanding which fabrics, when cut on ‘true bias’, create one effect, while ‘garment bias’ creates another. These are topics covered in our lesson, Bias Cowl Blouse. The principles of creating a gathered hip waist look involve shirring ratio and gathering techniques. These skills are covered in our lesson, Yoke Dirndl Skirt.

Hopefully these images and lesson suggestions will not only demystify various techniques, but will inspire you to create your own variations based on Christopher John Rodgers’ brilliance.

Fashion As Sculpture, Engineering & Architecture

Francesca Sterlacci - February 3, 2025 - Fashion Events, Fashion History, Fashion Innovation, How It's Made, Paris Couture Week, Women in Fashion

Did you watch the recent haute couture shows? Did it make you think, wow, how did they make that? This couture season especially reminded me of just how much engineering goes into garment design and construction. Want proof? Check out Daniel Roseberry’s collection for Schiaparelli, it was a brilliant combination of both engineering & architecture as he created wearable fashion sculpture.

I couldn’t help but think that Elsa was looking down on Roseberry’s show from fashion heaven and smiling. After all, in her day, Elsa Schiaparelli was a risk taker (watch this YouTube on her life). Think surrealist sleeves, lobster dress, exposed zippers in couture, the shoe hat, and her Shocking perfume bottle inspired by Mae West’s figure.

Italian fashion designer, Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) creator of the surreal sleeve, the shoe hat, and her Shocking perfume bottle inspired by Mae West’s figure. (Image credits: Pinterest.com)

Fashion Engineering & Architecture

Support Materials

Daniel Roseberry’s Spring 2025 Haute Couture Collection and his use of underlinings & support materials. (Image credit: Vogue.com)

If you’ve been designing for a while, as I have, and are a lover of the garment construction process, then you were probably in awe of Daniel Roseberry’s latest couture collection and his use of support materials to create stiff flares and invisible padding that shaped the hips of his dresses.

There are many different of types of materials from which to choose to create these looks. In our lesson entitled, Interfacings, Underlinings, Interlinings & Linings, we teach the difference between an interlining and an underlining, when and where to use them and the various types available.

Wire & Boning

Daniel Roseberry’s Spring 2025 Haute Couture Collection and his use of structure to create half dome-like structures. (Image Credit: Vogue.com)

I just loved Roseberry’s combination of structure and softness in his dresses. He made great use of wire and boning to create half dome-like dresses with tulle skirts. The airiness of a tulle skirt paired with the structure of a bustier resulted in a very dramatic Red Carpet effect.

To learn more about bustier design & construction, view our lessons, Bustier Bodice, and Foundation Bustier Construction Techniques. In addition to learning how to drape a bustier, you will also learn about the various tools & supplies used to construct a bustier, such as how to stabilize the edges and how to bone, press and line a bustier.

Fabric Sculpture

Daniel Roseberry’s Spring 2025 Haute Couture Collection and his mastery at creating fabric sculpture dresses. (Image credit: Vogue.com)

If you are a technical skills nerd like me, then your jaw dropped when you saw Roseberry turn fabric into sculpture. For example, look at the far left image above, he combined a sculpted jacket foundation with a carefully engineered bias-fluted yoke with pleats. Looking to learn how to create those bias-fluted pleats? Watch our lesson, Creative Draping: The Art of Fluting, to learn how to mold bias into just about any shape.

Our Creative Draping: The Art of Ruching lesson teaches how to create the look of the dress second from left above. And for the asymmetric ruffle dress to its right, watch our lesson, Draping a Cascade Ruffle Dress, which teaches how to draft circular fabric pieces and then how to drape them to cascade onto a dress foundation. And, to learn techniques on how to draft & drape ruffles, as pictured in the dress on the far right, view our lesson, Draping & Drafting a Multi-Tiered Dress.

Congratulations to Daniel Roseberry for a masterful haute couture collection for Schiaparelli!

University of Fashion Blog

Category "How It’s Made"

Announcing Our Newest Lesson: Drafting an Asymmetric Neckline for Knits

Announcing Our Newest Lesson: Drafting a V-Neck Knit Top – 2 variations

Announcing Our Newest Lesson: Drafting a Turtleneck Knit Top – 2 Variations

Announcing Our Newest Lesson: Drafting a Surplice Under Bust Knit Top

Announcing Our Newest Lesson: Drafting a Square Neckline for Knits

The Art & Anatomy of Handsewn Buttonholes

Announcing Our Newest Lesson: Draping a Princess Panel Sundress with Handkerchief Hem

The Fine Art of Lace: From Alençon to Battenberg

How’d They Make That?

Fashion As Sculpture, Engineering & Architecture

Fashion Engineering & Architecture

Support Materials

There are many different of types of materials from which to choose to create these looks. In our lesson entitled, Interfacings, Underlinings, Interlinings & Linings, we teach the difference between an interlining and an underlining, when and where to use them and the various types available.

Wire & Boning

Fabric Sculpture

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