Category "Fashion Shows"

What’s the Real Meaning Behind the Met’s Costume Art Exhibition?

Francesca Sterlacci - May 10, 2026 - Costume Exhibitions, Fashion Exhibitions, Fashion Shows

images of Costume Art at the Met and Devil Wears Prada 2 poster

The Met’s exhibition Costume Art (Image credit: MetMuseum.org) and Devil Wear’s Prada 2 (Image credit: HarpersBazaar.com)

Timing is everything. I recently saw The Devil Wears Prada 2, which opens with Runway (a thinly veiled Vogue) under fire for publishing a glossy puff piece that conveniently overlooks a brand’s sweatshop labor practices. The backlash threatens the magazine’s credibility, forcing a scramble to restore integrity. It’s hard not to see a parallel. The Met and Vogue’s new exhibition, Costume Art, feels less like a celebration of fashion and more like an exercise in reputational repair.

According to the Met, the exhibition “examines the centrality of the dressed body,” pairing garments with artworks to explore the relationship between clothing, the body, and fashion as an embodied art form. It’s an elegant premise—but one that sidesteps the more urgent realities shaping fashion today.

Like Runway in the film, Vogue—and by extension, the Met—feels increasingly out of step with both the industry and its audience. Years of overlooking body diversity and prioritizing mega-brands with massive advertising budgets over emerging designers cannot be erased by staging an exhibition featuring diverse mannequins and a nod to streetwear. Representation, when deployed selectively, risks reading as strategy rather than substance.

image of Mat exhibit showing body diverse mannequins

The Met’s Costume Art exhibition with body diversity on display (Image credit MetMuseum.org).

Insult to Injury

A bit of context matters. Diana Vreeland, Vogue’s editor-in-chief from 1963 to 1971, helped shape the modern Met Gala during her tenure at the Costume Institute from 1973 to 1986. She introduced themed exhibitions and cultivated a glamorous guest list, but she also championed young, emerging designers—myself included—and actively supported the New York fashion community. Her vision was expansive, not exclusionary.

Today’s Gala, by contrast, has taken on a distinctly transactional edge. Under Anna Wintour, it has evolved into what many see as a “pay-to-play” spectacle, where influence can be bought as readily as it is earned. The widely publicized $10 million donation from Lauren and Jeff Bezos only underscores the point. Against this backdrop, Costume Art begins to feel less like a thoughtful inquiry into whether fashion is art, and more like a carefully orchestrated PR moment.

More Damage Control?

image of the Ball Without Billionaire's show in the Meatpacking

Ball Without Billionaires runway show in the Meatpacking (Image credit HarpersBazaar.com)

The Fix?

If The Devil Wears Prada 2 gets anything right, it’s this: credibility can’t be curated – it has to be earned. Vogue and the Met may be trying to recalibrate their image, but true relevance will require more than a well-staged exhibition. It will demand a genuine shift in values, priorities, and who gets a seat at the table.

Chloé Malle, the new head of editorial content at Vogue U.S., may want to take a cue from Anne Hathaway’s character, Andy Sachs, in Devil Wears Prada 2, and learn how to navigate the changing world of fashion publishing and the fashion industry.

The Quiet Elegance of Love

Francesca Sterlacci - February 7, 2026 - Bespoke Tailoring, Fashion Shows, Menswear, Milan Fashion Week, Tailoring

With Men’s Fall/Winter 2026/27 fashion week behind us, the season’s prevailing message was clear: softness is strength. Designers embraced unstructured tailoring, featherlight jackets, relaxed trousers, and oversized shirts and knits with fluid, rounded shoulders — silhouettes that favored ease over rigidity. One couldn’t help but see these trends as an unspoken tribute to Giorgio Armani, who passed away on September 4, 2025, at the age of 91.

Sergio Galeotti and Giorgio Armani co-founders of the Armani brand in 1975 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

When Armani died, the world mourned the loss of more than a designer — it lost a man who built an empire on subtlety, restraint, and human warmth. Yet those who knew him best understood that behind the measured confidence and quiet brilliance of his craft stood a constant, steady love: First with his co-founder Sergio Galeotti (1945-1985) and then with Leo Dell’Orco, his “right‑hand man” and now creative director of Armani menswear.

Leo Dell’Orco and Giorgio Armani (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

For over half a century, Leo was not only Armani’s partner but also his closest collaborator, the man who understood that Giorgio’s minimalist perfection was never cold — it was intimate. Their relationship was private, even quiet, yet it informed everything the Armani brand became. Together, they cultivated a vision rooted in emotional intelligence — clothes that whispered, never shouted; tailoring that respected the body, not the ego.

Leo, who began working with Armani in the 1970s, became the silent architect of the designer’s most enduring codes. Where Giorgio articulated purity and proportion, Leo safeguarded the soul of the brand. Their dialogue — both personal and creative — was one of continuous refinement. Every softened shoulder, every whisper of silk, every measured tone of taupe felt like a conversation between them, an unspoken understanding turned tangible.

Armani Fall/Winter 2026/27 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

Now, as the world looks toward the Spring 2026–2027 menswear collection — the first conceived entirely under Leo’s direction since Armani’s passing — the clothes themselves feel like a eulogy written in fabric. Reviewers have called it a “silent ode” to Armani, but perhaps it is better understood as a love letter — one from Leo to the man who taught the world that elegance is not about attention, but about affection.

Armani Fall/Winter 2026/27 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

The collection avoids spectacle. Instead, it returns to Armani’s earliest language: clean linen blazers, sculpted trousers, muted desert tones, and that unmistakable sense of ease. There are hints of mourning — a softness in the cut, a delicacy in the color gradients, as if the garments are woven with memory. Yet amid the restraint, there is light: glimpses of hope, renewal, and simple devotion.

Giorgio Armani 2025 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

In the end, Armani’s greatest creation may not have been a jacket or a silhouette, but a life lived alongside two people who shared his understanding of beauty — that quiet confidence and serenity born not from fame, but from love. The Spring 2026–2027 season stands as an eloquent testament to that belief: that love, like great design, endures through form, line, and time.

Patriotic Fashion- Happy July 4th

Francesca Sterlacci - July 5, 2025 - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Events, Fashion History, Fashion Shows, Trends

To The Red, White & Blue: The American Flag in Fashion

American Flag in Fashion (Courtesy of Quora.Com)

Happy Independence Day 2025! What better way to show national pride than by wearing iconic red, white and blue?

The first official flag of the United States was introduced on June 14, 1777 and represented our founding 13 colonies with thirteen stripes in red and white and thirteen stars.

Did you know that the American flag as we know it today has only been around since 1960?

It was introduced shortly after Hawaii became the nation’s fiftieth state, and in its long and tricolored history, there have been a grand total of 27 official, government approved versions. As states were added, so were the stars. What has remained consistent is the flags thirteen red and white alternating stripes, representing our original thirteen colonies.

America was seen as the land of economic prosperity and enabling dreams – “The American Dream”. This slogan was made popular through intense marketing. The goal was singular: to project America to be the best place in the world to be living in. And it paid off. America became an attractive destination for some of the world’s smartest immigrants and global investment. Is that now in jeopardy?

Through the years, the American flag has become a fixture in the fashion world all across the United States and even overseas. The fashion world’s homage to the flag has been a little more abstract. It’s most definitely a popular motif, but the banner’s many variations run the gamut from straight-up remodeled – case in point, Givenchy’s spring 2014 men’s techy colored jumpers – to Catherine Malandrino’s gauzy iconic flag dress (which featured heavily in FIT’s 2009 “Fashion & Politics” exhibition).

Catherine Malandrino
2001 (Courtesy of Pintrest)

Givenchy Men’s Spring 2014 (Courtesy of Vogue.Com)

Most often it’s a bankable commodity – look at Ralph Lauren. The designer has been printing the American flag image on variations on his t-shirts for years. You cannot attend a 4^th of July party without someone in the crowd wearing a Ralph Lauren iconic flag tee. Tommy Hilfiger is another sportswear giant who has consistently incorporated the iconic American symbol as a logo for his collection.

Tommy Hilfiger X Gigi Hadid spring 2017 (Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger)

Denim & Supply by Ralph Lauren (Courtesy of Lyst.Com)

Thom Browne became famous for his signature red, white, and-blue grosgrain trims, that blend country-strong iconoclasm with theatricality and excitement. Meanwhile, Chanel’s pre-fall 2014 Dallas rodeo extravaganza at the hands of Karl Lagerfeld, embraced the motto “Everything is bigger in Texas.” The show was a star-spangled barn-burner.

Thom Browne Spring 2017 (Courtesy of ssense.com)

Chanel pre-fall2014 (Courtesy of Vogue.Com)

So, in honor of Independence Day, wear your flag motif proudly. No matter your political party, we should all be patriots!

How’d They Make That?

Francesca Sterlacci - March 8, 2025 - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Events, Fashion Shows, How It's Made, New York Fashion Week, Trends

New York Fashion Week Fall 2025 – Christopher John Rodgers (Image credit: Fashionista.com)

If you’re a fashionista like me, watching runway shows during fashion week always gets me thinking, “how’d they make that”? Then I ask myself, “let me see whether we have a lesson at University of Fashion for that particular design detail, technique or silhouette”?

During New York Fashion Week Fall 2025, I was not only impressed with the work of designer Christopher John Rodgers, but saw many design details, techniques and silhouettes that we can teach you how to create.

SHAWL COLLAR

Shawl Collar by Christopher John Rodgers’ (Image credit: Fashionista.com)

Shawl collars are always a gorgeous design detail when used on blouses, dresses, jackets and coats. We have the perfect lesson to teach you how: Drafting a Shawl Collar & Variations.

REIMAGINED BALLOON SKIRTS

Image of Christopher John Rogers’ balloon skirt silhouette

The balloon, bubble or puffball skirt is defined by its voluminous silhouette and has appeared in different fashion eras especially during the 80s. This time it’s back with an amorphous, more creative edge. Learn how to drape this look in our lesson: Creative Draping- Strapless Taffeta Dress.

RUCHING & WAIST GATHERS

image of Christopher John Rodgers' ruched bodice & hip waist gathers

Christopher John Rodgers’ ruched bodice & waist gathers (Image credit: Fashionista.com)

Ruching is a design technique that involves gathering fabric along a seam to create texture or dimension. Learning what the appropriate gathering or shirring ratio for a particular fabric is key to the outcome. These UoF lessons will show you how ruching is done on a bodice and how to plan for gathers at the waistline: Creative Draping – The Art of Ruching and Gathered Skirt with Waistband.

BIAS COWL & HIP WAIST GATHERS

Image of Christopher John Rogers’ bias cowl neckline & hip waist gathers (Image credit: Fashionista.com)

Mastering the bias cut is an art form. Understanding which fabrics, when cut on ‘true bias’, create one effect, while ‘garment bias’ creates another. These are topics covered in our lesson, Bias Cowl Blouse. The principles of creating a gathered hip waist look involve shirring ratio and gathering techniques. These skills are covered in our lesson, Yoke Dirndl Skirt.

Hopefully these images and lesson suggestions will not only demystify various techniques, but will inspire you to create your own variations based on Christopher John Rodgers’ brilliance.

MILAN S/S 2025 RUNWAY SECRETS DEMYSTFIED

Francesca Sterlacci - October 19, 2024 - Current Topics in Fashion, Draping, Fashion Events, Fashion Shows, Fashion Tips, How It's Made, Menswear, Milan Fashion Week, Pattern Making, Sewing, Trends, Womenswear

Collars by Luke & Lucie Meier’s Spring/Summer 2025 Collection for Jil Sander in Milan (Image credit: Vogue.com)

Most designers that watch runway shows during fashion month (NYC, London, Milan and Paris) often get inspired. When they see a particular look or design detail, it can also spark the question, “I wonder how they made that?”

This blogpost is a continuation of our coverage of fashion month and this time, we’re covering Milan Fashion Week, specifically the Spring Summer 2025 collection of the design duo, Luke & Lucie Meier, the brains behind the Jil Sander label. In our new series called “How Did They Make That?” we point to specific lessons in the University of Fashion video library where you can learn how a particular look or design detail is either draped, drafted or sewn.

Jil Sander

Collars

Luke & Lucie Meier’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Jil Sander was a study in collars, blazers & trouser and faux a& genuine leather. Their collars included the shirt collar, the banded collar and the classic Peter Pan. Check out our lessons on how to draft these and other collar variations. For example, our Peter Pan collar lesson features three different types of collar stand: a one-inch roll, a half inch roll, and a flat version (as pictured in the Jil Sander look top right above). To see a lesson preview of each lesson, click on the lesson links below.

University of Fashions collar lessons: Shirt collar, Banded collar and Peter Pan collar

Blazers, Trousers, Patent Leather & Genuine Leather

Men’s and women’s blazers & trousers plus faux & genuine leather looks by Luke & Lucie Meier for Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2025 collection in Milan (Image credit: Vogue.com)

Oversized blazers have been a ‘thing’ for several seasons, for both women’s and men’s. And nobody does it better than the team at Jil Sander. Classic, roomy and chic as can be.

Their genuine leather and patent leather pieces are very hot, hot, hot! Learn how to draft these looks and work with these materials by viewing the lesson links below.

UoF lessons: Drafting a Women’s Jacket, Drafting a Women’s Pleated Trouser, Drafting a Men’s Classic 2-Button Single Breasted Blazer, Drafting a Men’s Pleated Trouser, Leather Sewing Techniques and Faux Leather, Suede, Patent Leather Sewing Tips.

Do you have a fav look from Milan Fashion Week?

Hispanic Heritage Month- Celebrating Hispanic Fashion Icons

Francesca Sterlacci - October 12, 2024 - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion History, Fashion Shows

We hope you caught our blogpost, Celebrating Hispanic & Latino Contributions to Fashion – The Newbies, where we showcased the new crop of Hispanic fashion designers that rely upon their native heritage for inspiration. This week, we continue our celebration of Hispanic Heritage Month, but this time the focus will be on those iconic Hispanic-American brands that have already secured their place in the global fashion community.

Hispanic Heritage Month (September 15-October 15) is a celebration of the Hispanic and Latino community’s contributions to the United States and to the world at large.

In contrast to the Hispanic newbie designers, the Hispanic Icon designers seem to rely less on their native heritage and more on Western sources of inspiration. Could they fear ‘appropriation backlash’, or have they just moved on from their roots? Whatever the reason, the newbies are definitely tapping into a new surge of patriotism. Either way, Hispanic designers continue to be an important part of the global world of fashion.

Oscar de la Renta – Santo Domingo, Dominica Republic

Oscar de la Renta used influences from his tenure at European houses Balenciaga, Lanvin & Balmain. (Image Credit: 303magazine.com – Oscar de la Renta’s last collection 2014)

For example, Oscar de la Renta relied heavily on his European couture background and less from his native home, Santa Domingo, to create his American luxury brand. Though he claimed to have been inspired by Spain, bullfighting, nature, art history and diverse cultures, he was most inspired by the women who wore his clothes.

Carolina Herrera – Caracas, Venezuela

Examples of the “Herrera silhouette” by Carolina Herrera (Image Credit Beautykiss.com)

With the exception of the “Herrera silhouette” (a fitted bodice with a full skirt often cinched at the waist with a belt inspired by the traditional dresses of South America), Carolina Herrera is most known for elegant, timeless, feminine clothes and less about her native Caracas.

Maria Cornejo – Chile

Zero + Maria Cornejo (Image Credit: ZeroMariaCornejo.com)

Chilean-born Maria Cornejo moved to England as a political refugee with her family in 1973. Having spent years in England and Paris, she moved to New York City in 1996. Her work is guided, not by her Chilean roots, but with a focus on creating sustainable, wearable luxury for real women.

Narcisco Rodriquez – first generation Cuban-AmericanNarcisco Rodriquez- (Image Credit: NarciscoRodriquez.com)

Born and raised in Newark, New Jersey to first generation Cuban immigrants, Narcisco Rodriquez claims that his Latin heritage has always informed the ethos of his work with a celebration of a strong feminine spirit and the inherent beauty of the female body.

Manolo Blahnik – Santa Cruz de la Palma, in the Canary Islands (Spain)Assorted Manolo Blahnik footwear (Image Credit: ManoloBlahnik.com)

Blahnik was born in Santa Cruz de la Palma, in the Canary Islands (Spain), to a Czech father and Spanish mother. He is most known for his signature line of high-end women’s footwear, using luxurious, decorative and opulent additions such as chains, feathers, furs, fringe, grommets, ribbons, rings, silk brocade, lace and his famous buckle shoe the Hangisi.

Gabriela Hearst – Santa Isabel in Paysandu, Uruguay

Gabriela Hearst’s collection 2024 (Image Credit: TheCut.com)

Growing up on her family’s 17,000-acre ranch in Paysandu, Paraguay, Gabriela Hearst took over the operations of the ranch in 2015 and created a brand that reflects “luxury with a conscience”. For example, she created jackets and coats lined with special silver fabric that prevent cell phone radiation from reaching women’s reproductive organs. Hearst was Creative Director at Chloé from 2020 – 2023 and the first female Latin American designer to take the helm of a Paris fashion house. She is a true champion of using low-impact textiles, sustainable production and recycled packaging.

Victor Glemaud – Haiti

Victor Glemaud Collection 2023 (Image Credit: VictorGlemaud.com)

Victor Glemaud was born in Haiti but moved to the US when he was three. In 2006, he launched his eponymous designer collection of statement knitwear, designed for all people, genders, races, sizes, and personalities. His career took several detours, but in 2016 he launched his eponymous collection and eventually found his way back to fashion. He won the CFDA new-comer award in 2017 and in 2020 established IN THE BLK, a collective of Black creatives who work together to promote Black-owned fashion brands.

Tell us, do you have a favorite Hispanic or Latino designer?

Alaïa – New York Fashion Week SS 2025 How Did They Make That?

Francesca Sterlacci - September 14, 2024 - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Shows, Fashion Tips, How It's Made, Pattern Making, Trends

Alaïa – New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025. Left to right: circular ruffle peplum harem pant, cascade ruffle asymmetric skirt hanging by spaghetti strap, and layered circular ruffled flouncy miniskirts. (Image Credit: Vogue.com)

When you watch runway shows during fashion week and you see a certain design or design detail that you love, do you ever say to yourself, “I wonder how they made that”?

Welcome to our new series on how to execute certain runway looks. Whether they are draped, drafted and/or sewn, we’ll point you to the University of Fashion lesson where you can learn how it’s done.

Cascade Circular Ruffles

At the Alaïa show, staged at New York’s Guggenheim Museum on September 6^th, one of the themes in the collection was the cascade circular ruffle. Creative Director Pieter Mulier used the cascade circular ruffle, as a flouncy peplum on top of a harem pant, as an asymmetric skirt hanging from the body by a spaghetti strap and layered circular ruffles to create the cutest flouncy miniskirts.

UoF Lessons that cover cascade circular ruffles:

https://www.universityoffashion.com/lessons/draping-a-cascade-ruffle-skirt/

https://www.universityoffashion.com/lessons/draping-a-cascade-ruffle-dress/

https://www.universityoffashion.com/lessons/princess-ruffle-sundress/

Spaghetti Straps lesson:

https://www.universityoffashion.com/lessons/spaghetti-straps/

Sheer Fabric Seam & Hem Finishes

Alaïa – New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025. Sheer pieces fabric seam and hem finishes (Image Credit: Vogue.com)

Alaïa’s Creative Director, Pieter Mulier, designed some of the most seductively sheer pieces that were a cross between lingerie and daywear. When working with sheer fabrics you must choose your seam and hem finishes carefully. The following are an assortment of seam and hem finish lessons to choose from when working with your particular type of sheer fabric, whether it’s chiffon, georgette, voile, mesh, net, or other diaphanous material.

UoF Lessons that cover sheer seam & hem finishes:

As we continue to get inspired watching the global Spring/Summer 2025 fashion weeks unfold, we will be sure to blog about how some of the best looks are created.

Stay tuned…

REMINDER:

Don’t forget to take advantage of our UoF Back-to-School promo

Learn from 13 learning disciplines – 550 videos

Get $40 off a yearly subscription – was $220/now $180

Offer EXPIRES 10.1.2024

Use Promo Code: SCHOOL

Scan takes you to UoF Sign-up page

Meet Anna Leighton – AI Fashion Design Pioneer

Francesca Sterlacci - July 20, 2024 - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Innovation, Fashion Shows, New University of Fashion Lessons, Technology, Uncategorized

Anna Leighton –AI fashion design winner from AI Fashion Week – Season 1 & 2 (Image Credit: Anna Leighton)

If you’re an ardent follower of artificial intelligence and what this technology means for fashion designers, then you might already be ‘in the know’ about AI Fashion Week. Especially if you have been reading our blog for the past two years. AI Fashion Week was spearheaded by visionary minds at Maison Meta, the world’s first AI generative agency founded in New York City in 2022 by Cyril Foiret, in partnership with next-generation online retailer Revolve Group.

The UoF blog covered the First AI Fashion Week (AIFW-April 2023) and the Second AI Fashion Week, November 30 – December 1, 2023, which is where you would have learned about Anna Leighton, one of 10 fashion design winners from that show. I recently had an opportunity to interview Anna about how foray into AI fashion design and, I’m happy to announce, that Anna will be creating an AI Fashion Design lesson series for UoF. Meet Anna:

The Interview

Francesca: Are you a formally trained fashion designer?

Anna: Yes, I went to Otis College of Art & Design in LA and graduated in 1996. I worked for a variety of companies and then in 2001, I started my own collection, making one-of-a-kind “eco-effective”dresses, called Annatarian. Then, in 2004 I started doing jewelry. With family in the jewelry business for 40 years, they helped me launch my jewelry collection called, Peace, Love, Earth by Annatarian. In 2012, I started working with my husband who is a fine artist,and took a break from making one-of-a-kind pieces. I also realized that I needed business education and began taking business classes in sales and marketing. Soon I got my jewelry line in 75 stores, including Nordstroms.

Francesca: What computer skills are necessary to become an AI Fashion Designer?

Anna: In 1996, I took a Photoshop class at Otis then hired a one-on-one Photoshop expert to teach me and that is what got my foot in the door at a lot of the fashion companies after graduation, since I had really good technical skills. Then in 2015, I got a VR headset because I wanted to start a VR fashion project. I then learned 3D design using Browzwear and got connected in 2020 (I discovered them in 2018 or 2019) with Amsterdam-based The Fabricant, a digital fashion house using CLO 3D, where I did some of their community events, and was asked to become their community manager in 2021. This is where I became more involved in the 3D art world. My husband is a tech genius, artist and filmmaker who created an app whereby through augmented reality, you can see his paintings come to life. Since I started working with him in 2012, I started to see the potential of augmented reality for fashion. I started working in Tilt Brush (an open-source VR painting app) with VR headgear and dabbled in Gravity Sketch (a free 3D sketching and design software), which I think is going to be huge for the fashion industry soon. You can design using your headgear or you can do it online too, you don’t have to be in virtual space.

Anna Leighton and her husband created a public art project for the City of LA which is up indefinitely at Angels Flight in Downtown LA, called Angels in LA. (Image Credit: https://downtownla.com/explore/grand-ave-augmented)

Francesca: What other programs do you use to create AI-inspired fashion?

Anna: Through another community, based out of Amsterdam called LoveKraft, I started working with an AI product called GauGAN and that was my first experience in AI, three years ago. It blew my mind because you could draw a crude little house and get something really magical. A few months later GauGAN got really good. Then along came Midjourney AI (a tool that allows you to create high-quality images from simple text prompts from the browser of your computer or phone, no special software needed), which at the time was invitation only and I was one of the first to use it. Then came DALL-E, an AI system that can create realistic images and art from a description in natural language. I was able to get myself and my community passes to DALL-E. Using DALL-E, my husband and I created a public art project for the City of LA, which is up indefinitely at Angels Flight in Downtown LA, called Angels in LA. We initially generated the imagery using Dall-E. However, as Midjourney AI surpassed Dall-E, we switched to Midjourney.

Anna Leighton is Top 10 winner with her Magical Mystery Core Collection – AI Fashion Week Season 1 (Image Credit: Anna Leighton)

Francesca: How did you become involved in AI Fashion Week?

Anna: Through The Fabricant,I learned about the first AI Fashion Week (April 2023). I had to give them some ideas, get approved, build my collection and then get people to vote on my collection. I did that for both AIFW Season 1 and 2. For AI Fashion Week Season 1, the designs from my Magical Mystery Core Collection made the Top 10.

Anna Leighton’ s Annatarian Harmonia Collection – Makes Top 20 at AI Fashion Week Season 2 (Image Credit: Anna Leighton)

Anna: And then for AI FW Season 2- they changed the ranking to Top 20, from Top 10, and my Annatarian Harmonia Collection made it again.

Inspired by the strength and grace of female athletes, Anna blended couture fashion with the spirit of women’s basketball. (Image Credit: Anna Leighton)

Francesca: Can you discuss how important having ‘hands-on’ design skills is when creating AI fashion?

Anna: While it’s very appealing to do sci-fi and things that can’t exist, because where else can you do that but in AI? However, I really wanted to see these collections come to life. Therefore, my fashion design skills and knowledge are very important to the process. I’d love to have a chance to being the next designer at Chanel. I am also inspired by my mom who was a big vintage person in the 80s, and my grandmother, who is 99 and once worked for Mr. Blackwell and Travilla as a sample maker and is a stickler for sewing properly. I love draping and I love textiles and hand sewing. All of that is important to me. When working with 3D designers on various projects where they were using CLO 3D and were good at putting it together but didn’t know the drape and construction often it would be a bit “off”. I wasn’t as expert on that software, but I was able to say, “I think you need to curve that line right there on the pattern to get it to drape this way,” and it would work out.

Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things- a book by by Michael Braungart & William McDonough

Francesca:Can you describe your inspiration for creating AI fashion?

Anna: I contemplated how I had started my Annatarian dress collection in 2001, when 911 happened, and my jewelry line Peace, Love Earth in 2004. I reflected on my time working in the fashion industry, which had its highs and lows. I got to travel quite a bit, but I also got to see how things were manufactured and wasn’t very comfortable it. What we do to countries, how things get recycled, and how polluting the fashion industry really is. I am more focused on artistic design than traditional career paths. Once I read Cradle to Cradle by Michael Braungart and William McDonough and met William McDonough, I realized that I wanted to create that kind of fashion – using the ideology that raw materials are not thrown away [from cradle to grave] but are reused indefinitely or serve as “food” for new products. Incorporating eco-effective design principles, I often use textiles and jewelry collected from my travels to Egypt, Armenia, Europe, China and Thailand as the story behind my design concepts.

A look from Annatarian’s AI Fashion Week Season 2 Harmonia Collection using DALL-E. (Photo Credit: AI Fashion Week)

Francesca: Can you describe the design concept for your AI Fashion Week Season 2 collection?

I started with a concept. For example, I had just gone to Athens, Greece and saw graffiti everywhere, juxtaposed against ancient walls. It was so beautiful and fascinating to me. At the same time, the crisis in Ukraine and Israel-Gaza was taking place. When I started working on the Harmonia collection, it was about bringing in the textiles that I had collected in my travels and putting stories together and adding the runway with a background of Athens. And what I did with Annatarian was put stories together like making peace within a dress. I’d combine fabrics from combining cultures that were in conflict and make peace. So, the dress above had a story.

A look from Annatarian’s AI Fashion Week Season 2 Harmonia Collection

Francesca: Can you discuss the technical process for creating an AI fashion piece?

Anna: For the Annatarian dress collection, I started by manually inputting specific parameters into the AI, (DALL-E and Stable Diffusion for the face), such as color schemes, model types – what kind of model, my textiles, my Athens location images, lighting, camera angle and design styles. There are positive prompts, negative prompts, image inputs, and so much more. These parameters guide the AI in generating the initial design. And, like ChatGPT, I refine it.

For me, from the first day, I have really been able to speak to AI in a way that is very natural to me and reminds me of when I used to travel to different countries and they would say, “I really understand your English, but when so and so speaks, I can’t understand them.” So, maybe I understand how AI thinks or what it can understand and so maybe that’s it.

Annatarian- Blouse & Pant from AI Fashion Week Season 2 Harmonia Collection (Image Credit: Anna Leighton)

Francesca: Is there much tweaking in AI for a particular design project?

Anna: Yes, sometimes I’ll make a spreadsheet to keep track of what inputs worked and what didn’t. I go through multiple iterations to tweak and refine it. Yes, sometimes hundreds-to make sure the design aligns with my personal aesthetic. Often, the AI-generated designs don’t fit my style initially, so I spend a significant amount of time refining the prompts and making adjustments until the design truly reflects my vision and brand. I will also go into Photoshop to adjust colors, tweak the design, or even change the model’s face.

My alter ego – a woke cowboy named Dusty Trials, came to me in a dream. I created a song and it took me 160 tries. I made it using AI available on iTunes https://music.apple.com/us/album/boy-lost-in-queens/1749932341?i=1749932342 and Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/track/5hsxYJyeNykLPvMDHHakNl?si=dc13868fa9c6493d. I am currently making a Dusty Trials music video.

Francesca: Are these AI generator tools expensive and are they Mac and PC compatible?

Anna: I use both my PC and my Mac to create AI content. Stable Diffusion is free, and I use it and my VR headset on my PC. I use Midjourney on my Mac and it’s approximately $30 a month. I also use DALL-E on my Mac, which is now within ChatGPT, and I pay $20 per month .

Anna Leighton’s Annatarian Magical Mystery Core – AI Fashion Week Season 1 (Image Credit: Anna Leighton)

Francesca: What kind of knowledge base do you need to create AI-inspired fashion?

Anna: You need be computer savvy and have patience. Knowing programs like Adobe Photoshop, have a background in fashion design & costume history, and possess talent & a taste level help a lot.

Francesca: Will you be creating more content for AI Fashion Week – Season 3?

Anna: Yes. I want to create designs that can be easily produced and sold. This next time I will do something that is not as complex and therefore not so expensive to produce.

Francesca: Will AI-generated patterns be next?

Anna: Yes, it’s only a matter of time.

Francesca: What is next on your horizon?

Anna: I’m interested in designing for a major fashion house. Additionally, I’m excited to be creating an AI fashion design lesson series for the University of Fashion. I’m passionate about exploring the intersection of technology and creativity, and these projects allow me to push the boundaries of what’s possible in fashion design. Sustainability is a key focus for me, and I integrate eco-effective design principles into my work, creating fashion that not only sustains but also gives back, makes a difference, and transforms the industry.

So tell us, how excited are you to learn how to create AI fashion?

A NEW CROP OF NIGERIAN DESIGNERS

Francesca Sterlacci - April 27, 2024 - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Shows

Looks from Mai Atafo. (Photo Credit: Mai Atafo)

Nigeria, the vibrant heartbeat of Africa, is a kaleidoscope of cultures, colors, and creativity. It is home to the second largest film industry on the globe while also being the fashion, technological and creative hub of Africa, according to Nigeria’s tourism site. In recent years, a new wave of fashion designers have emerged, infusing traditional Nigerian aesthetics with contemporary flair and global appeal. There have been plenty of rising fashion designers coming out of Africa, here we will highlight a few from the new crop of fashion darlings – Mai Atafo, Banke Kuku, Cute-Saint, Dye Lab by Rukky Ladoja, and Eki Kere – all of whom are redefining Nigerian fashion and captivating the world with their unique styles.

A display from Brooklyn Museum’s Africa Fashion exhibition in 2023. (Photo Credit: The New York Times)

“Currently the global fashion community is looking to the African continent for more than inspiration,” said Ernestine White-Mifetu, the Sills Foundation curator of African art at the Brooklyn Museum, in an interview with NYT. “The fashion world at large is finally ready to pay attention.”

MAI ATAFO

A look from Mai Atafo. (Photo Credit: Ebuka Mordi)

With a penchant for luxury and sophistication, Mai Atafo stands as a beacon of haute couture in Nigeria. His designs are a seamless blend of classic elegance and modern glamour, appealing to fashionistas both locally and internationally. From meticulously tailored suits to breathtaking bridal gowns, Atafo’s creations exude timeless charm and impeccable craftsmanship.

Atafo’s influence extends beyond the runway; he is also a mentor and advocate for emerging designers, nurturing talent and promoting excellence within the Nigerian fashion industry. With his eponymous label, Mai Atafo continues to elevate Nigerian fashion to new heights, one exquisite ensemble at a time.

BANKE KUKU

A look from Banke Kuku. (Photo Credit: Bella Naija)

For Banke Kuku, fabric is her canvas, and she paints with an eclectic palette of colors and patterns. Drawing inspiration from Nigeria’s rich cultural heritage and her Yoruba roots, Kuku’s designs celebrate traditional Nigerian textiles while infusing them with a contemporary twist.

Each piece by Banke Kuku tells a story, weaving together intricate motifs and bold prints to create wearable works of art. From silky pajama-inspired looks to statement accessories, her collections exude a sense of joy and individuality, inspiring women to embrace their heritage with pride and style.

CUTE-SAINT

Looks from Cute-Saint. (Photo Credit: Cute-Saint)

In the fast-paced world of streetwear, Femi Ajose, the designer behind the label Cute-Saint is making waves with his bold, edgy designs that push boundaries and defy conventions with his genderless collections. He has a finger on the pulse of urban culture, Ajose’s aesthetic is raw, rebellious, and unapologetically Nigerian.

From graphic tees adorned with Afrocentric motifs to oversized jackets, Ajose’s creations for Cute-Saint resonate with a younger audience seeking authenticity and self-expression. His brand reflects the dynamism of Nigerian youth culture, celebrating diversity and individuality in all its forms. The designer also has sustainability on his mind as all his creations are made in Nigeria with dead stock fabric that comes from prior collections or has been found at the city’s famous Yaba market.

DYE LAB BY RUKKY LADOJA

Rukky Ladoja on Building a Socially Responsible Nigerian Fashion Brand Dye Lab. (Photo Credit: Okay Africa)

In an era of eco-consciousness, Rukky Ladoja is leading the charge for sustainable fashion in Nigeria with her brand, Dye Lab. Using traditional dyeing techniques and natural materials, Ladoja creates vibrant, one-of-a-kind garments that are as kind to the planet as they are stylish.

From tie-dye dresses to hand-painted skirts, every piece from Dye Lab is a testament to Ladoja’s commitment to ethical fashion. By championing sustainable practices and supporting local artisans, she is paving the way for a more environmentally friendly future for Nigerian fashion.

EKI KERE

Nigerian Actress Nancy Isime Stuns in Eki Kere. (Photo Credit: Fashion Ghana)

With her free-spirited designs and bohemian aesthetic, Abasiekeme Ukanireh, the designer behind the label Eki Kere, captures the essence of wanderlust and adventure. Drawing inspiration from her travels across Africa and beyond, Ukanireh ‘s collections are a tapestry of cultures, textures, and colors.

From flowing kaftans to embellished headpieces, Ukanireh’s designs for Eki Kere’s evoke a sense of wanderlust and whimsy, transporting wearers to far-flung destinations with each piece. Her brand embodies the spirit of exploration and self-discovery, inviting fashion lovers to embrace their inner nomad and journey beyond the ordinary.

Remember to view UoF’s lessons on West African textiles.

So, tell us, do you think Africa can become the next fashion destination?

MOVE OVER HERITAGE BRANDS- THERE’S SOME NEW KIDS IN TOWN PART 2

Francesca Sterlacci - March 2, 2024 - Fashion Shows

Looks from Feben’s Fall 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

In the vibrant world of fashion, Milan and Paris stand as bastions of innovation, creativity, and timeless elegance. With their rich cultural heritage, a plethora of heritage brands and unwavering dedication to craftsmanship, these fashion capitals have finally opened their arms to new design talent. This week’s blog is part two in our coverage of fashion’s newest darlings.

Initiatives such as fashion incubators, mentorship programs, and grants are gaining momentum, providing invaluable support to emerging designers as they embark on their creative journeys. Through these initiatives, Milan and Paris are reaffirming their commitment to fostering the next generation of fashion visionaries and ensuring that their legacies endure for years to come.

By embracing and nurturing young talent, they are not only preserving their rich sartorial heritage, but are also pushing the boundaries of creativity and innovation. As emerging designers continue to make their mark on the global stage, one thing is certain: the future of fashion shines bright in the hands of those who dare to dream in the shadow of Milan and Paris.

MILAN

Milan, Italy’s fashion capital, is synonymous with luxury and sophistication. It’s a city where tradition seamlessly intertwines with modernity, providing a fertile ground for emerging designers to thrive. One of the defining features of Milan’s fashion scene is its commitment to craftsmanship and attention to detail, traits that are instilled in aspiring designers from the outset.

Milan’s Fashion Week serves as a platform for emerging designers to showcase their collections alongside established fashion houses. This exposure not only catapults their careers but also solidifies Milan’s position as a nurturing hub for burgeoning talent.

Here are a few of Milan’s emerging designers:

FEBEN

A look from Feben’s Fall 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

This season, Feben was selected and sponsored by Dolce & Gabbana. Feben, is a London designer with Ethiopian roots who was born in North Korea and grew up in Sweden.

A Central Saint Martins 2020 graduate, Feben sells her designs to established retailers, Ssense and Browns. She is known for her colorful, form-fitting clothes and has developed a cult following with celebrities like Beyoncé, Lauryn Hill, Erykah Badu, and Janelle Monáe.

The designer often plays with texture in her work, and claims “Because if you can work with textures, you can create really cool things.” She went on in an interview with Vogue: “I want you to feel something, either with your eyes, heart, or your hands, and I find texture so fun.” This season Feben cut her signature puckered “Twist” dresses in velvet, which was oh so flattering.

MICHAELA STARK LAUNCHED HER NEW LINGERIE LINE PANTY

A look from Panty’s Fall 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: Michaela Stark)

Australian artist/designer Michaela Stark’s bold lingerie and ready-to-wear line, Panty, goes up to a size 5XL, which is truly size inclusive. The collection is a celebration of all body types with its transparent bloomers, corsets, garters and baby-doll dresses. Panty celebrates the body’s natural curves and does not conceal them with rigid shapewear. Stark showcased her debut collection in Milan at the Fondazione Sozzani via an exhibition and a performance called “Michaela Stark’s Panty Show.” “I put an obscene amount of time into making lingerie that makes fat desirable,” Stark told Kerry Olsen for The New York Times.

Stark launched her couture business in 2022, operating on a made-to-order basis. She has quickly become known for creating avant-garde pieces created from corsets and ribbons. The pieces are constructed with strategically placed holes to create bulges or cradle the curve of a breast or stomach, according to Vogue Business.

Stark’s creations has been featured in photoshoots for a number of publications, including Vogue Italia, Dazed and Perfect magazine. She has also collaborated with Jean Paul Gaultier and in September 2023, was selected to design a capsule for the Victoria’s Secret fashion show, as the brand’s aim is to be size inclusive.

SAGABOI

A look from Sagaboi’s Fall 2024 Show. (Photo Credit: Tagwalk)

Sagaboi was founded in 2015 by Geoff K. Cooper. The label is inspired by the Caribbean region’s culture, history, lifestyle, people and practices. So naturally for his Milan Fashion Week debut, Cooper brought Caribbean Flair to Milan with a calypso music-filled show for both his menswear and womenswear collections.

Cooper’s background was not in design, according to WWD, he was a menswear editor. Launching Sagaboi was very personal to him because he wanted to give a voice to the Caribbean culture he felt was underrepresented in the industry. Drawing its name from the West Indian word meaning “a playboy” or someone who dresses fashionably, the collection captures the essence of the Caribbean with vibrant colored skirts, tailored suits, fanciful furs, and a nod to safari.

PARIS

Across the border, Paris exudes an aura of romance and refinement that transcends generations. As the birthplace of haute couture, the city is revered for its unparalleled craftsmanship and visionary design. However, Parisian fashion isn’t just about adhering to tradition; it’s about pushing boundaries and challenging conventions. Young designers flock to Paris, drawn by its reputation as a melting pot of creativity and innovation.

During Paris Fashion Week, the world’s fashion elite converge to witness the unveiling of groundbreaking collections by both established and emerging designers. This global stage provides young talents with a rare opportunity to showcase their work on an international platform, attracting attention from buyers, influencers, and press alike.

Here are a few of Paris’ emerging designers:

MAXHOSA AFRICA

Looks from Maxhosa Africa’s Fall 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: WWD)

South African designer Laduma Ngxokolo launched his Maxhosa Africa label in 2011 at the age of 24. The designer studied textile and pattern design in school before pursuing a degree in textile design and technology at Nelson Mandela University in his hometown of Port Elizabeth, South Africa. He then received his 2-year master’s degree at London’s Central Saint Martins.

A Missoni fan, Ngxokolo viewed knitwear as the best medium to translate traditional beadwork. These techniques rely on networks of pixel-like units — a stitch or a bead — but the Italian brand’s artistic approach echoed the way he wanted to “apply our [Xhosa] art in an African-centric way,” he stated in a WWD interview.

While it’s important for Ngxokolo to preserve his cultural heritage, he is adamant that people approach the brand as a high-end fashion line, one that is “sacred on the celebration of culture.” He believes that “Culture is magnificent and therefore can be celebrated globally as much as people celebrate heritage. My culture is bold and extravagant but the point I wanted to prove is that culture can be fashionable, tasteful and worn on a daily basis — if done right.”

RENAISSANCE RENAISSANCE

Looks from Renaissance Renaissance’s fall 2024 collection. (Photo Credit: WWD)

For designer Cynthia Merhej, her label Renaissance Renaissance is the story of renewal and keeping hope alive in the direst of circumstances, as the name indicates.

Merhej grew up in the aftermath of Lebanon’s 30-year civil war, “everything was decimated and was just starting to be reconstructed,” the designer recalled to WWD. “A lot of what I learned about design, culture, art and so on came from a huge curiosity and desire to see what’s out there.”

Leaving Lebanon for London, the designer pursued visual communication and illustration courses at Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art. “But everything I was doing inevitably led back to fashion, my first love, [particularly] as the way I saw storytelling was always through clothes,” she said to WWD. After all, her mother, aunt, and great-grandmother all had ateliers of their own.

Merhej created her first collection in 2019, and in 2020 she was selected as part of Net-a-porter’s Vanguard program in 2020. The brand was on the way up when COVID-19 struck. To make matters worse, when she was back home in Beirut, the 2020 explosion at the city’s port happened, which left hundreds dead, thousands injured and scores without homes or livelihoods. “It was really like being stuck on a roller coaster and not knowing when it’s going to end,” she said to WWD. Yet she proceeded. Merhej opened an atelier for her brand Renaissance Renaissance in the Lebanese capital in 2022. The designer produces her collection in her homeland to foster creativity after all the trauma in her country.

Bringing her collections to Paris has already put Merhej’s work on fashionista radars. She was chosen to create the costumes for an upcoming adaptation of “Bonjour Tristesse,” the 1954 novel by French author Françoise Sagan, starring Chloë Sevigny.

JULIE KEGELS

A look from Julie Kegel’s Fall 2024 Collection. (Photo Credit: WWD)

“For me, it’s all about finding a balance between beauty and ugliness, seriousness and ridiculousness because while designing I just want to have fun,” Belgian designer Julie Kegels told WWD ahead of her debut collection. “I also want to feel a lot of emotions while also coming out of my comfort zone.”

Fashion design was a dream Kegels wanted since childhood, after all, her father worked in accessories and bags. She attended the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts’ prestigious fashion department, where she sharpened her skill under the wings of Walter Van Beirendonck and Dirk Van Saene. She’s also worked under Pieter Mulier at Alaïa.

Eventually, she launched her namesake brand Julie Kegels. “I always had in mind the desire to start something when the time was right, but I thought that if I waited too long, I’d be a bit afraid,” she said in an interview with WWD.

So, if you are an aspiring and/or an up-and-coming designer, we hope this blog post will give you some encouragement. Passion is everything. So are the right skills. That’s why the mission of the University of Fashion has always been “Learn fashion design, one step at a time”.

University of Fashion Blog