Category "Current Topics in Fashion"

FASHION BRANDS UNITE FOR MAUI

Antonia Sardone - September 16, 2023 - Current Topics in Fashion

The hall of the historic Waiola Church is engulfed in flames in Lahaina on Aug. 8 (Photo Credit: Associated Press)

This past summer, Hawaii faced an unprecedented crisis as raging wildfires consumed its lush landscapes and threatened its communities. The picturesque landscapes that had long captured the world’s imagination became the backdrop of a nightmare that began on August 8, 2023. Raging wildfires, fueled by a confluence of unfortunate events, put the very essence of this tropical paradise to the test.

The story of Hawaii’s 2023 wildfires is one of tragedy, borne from a series of unfortunate events. Unusually hot and dry conditions, exacerbated by climate change, set the stage for an inferno. Strong winds fanned the flames, spreading the destruction far and wide. Hawaii’s unique ecosystems, teeming with life, were under siege as fires raged across multiple islands, leaving a trail of destruction in their wake. The Big Island, Maui, Oahu, and Kauai were all affected. In a cruel twist of fate, some of the most iconic and beloved spots, such as the Haleakalā National Park and the lush forests of the Hamakua Coast, bore the brunt of the blaze.

As the islands grappled with the devastating aftermath, a surprising source of support emerged – the fashion industry. In the face of Hawaii’s catastrophe, several prominent brands and designers stepped up to make a difference. They recognized that fashion isn’t just about clothes but also about the communities and environments that inspire their creativity.

PATAGONIA

The interior of a Patagonia Store. (Photo Credit: The New York Times)

Known for their commitment to environmental causes, Patagonia was among the first fashion brands to respond to the Maui wildfires. The company pledged a substantial donation to the relief efforts and encouraged their customers to contribute as well. Patagonia’s dedication to preserving our planet goes hand in hand with their commitment to aiding communities affected by natural disasters.

Kate Williams, CEO of 1% for the Planet, Patagonia’s global movement, issued a statement on August 11, urging the fashion industry to see the wildfires as a wakeup call. “This has been a summer full of signals that climate change is not a future threat, it’s now; it’s heart wrenching as we see the devastation of ecosystems and communities all around us. We are leaning into our community of action as a way to both support each other and keep working toward a healthier future.”

TOMMY BAHAMA

Tommy Bahama’s Hawaii Shirt. (Photo Credit: Tommy Bahama)

Tommy Bahama, a brand synonymous with island living, took a more commercial approach with their special “Aloha for Hawaii” collection and a percentage of the proceeds donated to wildfire relief organizations. This initiative raised funds and spread a message support, however, one can’t help but think that the brand was also capitalizing on the tragedy.

ALO YOGA

Alo Yoga classes in Hawaii. (Photo Credit: Alo Yoga)

Alo Yoga, a brand recognized for its stylish activewear, launched a unique campaign to contribute to the cause. They organized outdoor yoga events in Hawaii, with all proceeds from ticket sales and merchandise going directly to wildfire relief. This initiative blended fitness, mindfulness, and philanthropy.

PRANA

PrAna athlete-ambassador, Anna Ehrgott on the Big Island of Hawaii. (Photo Credit: PrAna)

PrAna, an eco-conscious fashion brand, partnered with local artisans in Hawaii to create a limited edition “Hawaii Strong” collection. The collection featured clothing and accessories inspired by Hawaiian culture, and like Tommy Bahama, a portion of the profits were donated to wildfire relief.

TORI RICHARD

Tori Richard is the leading brand for men’s and women’s resort and aloha apparel and is based in Honolulu Hawaii. (Photo Credit: Lahaia News)

Tori Richard, a brand known for its vibrant Hawaiian prints, designed a special collection titled “Island Vibes for Hawaii.” Proceeds from this collection were used to support local wildlife rescue and rehabilitation efforts in addition to wildfire relief. Tori Richard’s dedication to preserving Hawaii’s unique flora and fauna was evident in this thoughtful initiative.

BILLABONG

Billabong is part of the surf culture in Hawaii. (Photo Credit: Billabong)

Billabong, a brand deeply rooted in surf culture, organized “Surf for Hawaii” events at popular Hawaiian beaches. These events brought together surf enthusiasts and raised funds for wildfire relief through sponsorships and donations. Billabong’s dedication to their oceanic roots resonated with the Hawaiian community.

PLAE

Ryan Ringholz, founder and CEO of Honolulu-based footwear brand Plae, received personal requests for help in providing slippers or shoes to survivors of the Maui fires. Through a neighbor he was told that “busloads of people are coming in with nothing on their feet,” at Maui hospitals and shelters. Not only did Plae provide shoes for survivors who lost everything, but on Aug. 11, the brand announced in Footwear News that it would match any customer donations of Plae Rewards points with all proceeds going directly to the Hawaiian Community Foundation’s Maui Strong Fund.

Plae’s commitment to Hawaii. (Photo Credit: Plae)

OLUKAI

Olukai gives back to Hawaii. (Photo Credit: Olukai)

Footwear brand OluKai also focused on the crisis by donating 100 percent of their August 9th website and store sales to emergency and relief efforts. The brand’s charity, the Ama OluKai Foundation, is now focusing its donations on Maui (OluKai matched the first $200,000 in gifts to the foundation).

SKECHERS

Sketcher’s store located in Ohana helped donate shoes and clothing to survivors. (Photo Credit: Sketchers)

Skechers lost their Maui store due to the wildfires. On August 12th, the brand announced that it donated $250,000 to the Maui Strong Fund to support the recovery of affected communities. They also distributed approximately 20,000 pairs of footwear and 20,000 pieces of apparel, in addition to backpacks and socks.

As part of the global fashion community, UoF is proud to announce their donation to Hawaii Community Foundation’s Maui Strong Fund . If you haven’t done so already, please consider making a donation. Other organizations to consider donating to include: Americares, Maui United Way, ‘Āina Momona and/or visit redcross.org, call 1-800-RED-CROSS (800-733-2767), or text the word REDCROSS to 90999 to make a $10 donation.

VIBRANT THREADS OF CULTURE

Antonia Sardone - August 26, 2023 - Current Topics in Fashion

Looks from the African Fashion exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum. (Photo Credit; The New York Times)

In the heart of one of New York City’s bustling boroughs, a kaleidoscope of colors, patterns, and history is unfurling at the renowned Brooklyn Museum in an exhibition entitled, Africa Fashion. The show is the largest-ever presentation on the subject, with more than 180 works, including standout pieces from the Museum’s collections.

The exhibition is a breathtaking celebration of style and heritage and has captured the attention of art enthusiasts, fashionistas, and cultural explorers alike. As you step into this immersive journey through time and tradition, you are transported to the vibrant tapestry of Africa’s diverse fashion narrative. The exhibit will run until October 22, 2023, so if you’re planning to attend New York Fashion Week, the Brooklyn Museum is only a quick train ride away.

Why the Brooklyn Museum’s African Fashion Exhibit is Important

We all know that fashion inspiration comes from many different sources. Designers are inspired by things like music, architecture, books, history and/or from the design and textiles of other countries and cultures. However, when cultural appreciation turns into cultural appropriation, that’s a no-no; like when Ralph Lauren got into hot water for selling copies of designs from Indigenous communities in Contla and Saltillo, Mexico. And, when Anthropologie and Flaherty were also called out for their culturally appropriative fashion from Mexico. And, that is why this exhibit on African fashion is so important. By learning about African textiles and fashion, from the source, it helps to educate designers and hopefully will keep them from directly stealing from that culture.

The Evolution of African Fashion

The Africa Fashion exhibition was curated with meticulous attention to detail, and offers a sartorial time machine that whisks you through centuries of Africa’s fashion evolution. From the rich textiles of ancient civilizations to the contemporary haute couture donned by African designers today, each piece unveils a chapter in the narrative of African identity and self-expression.

Looks from the African Fashion exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum. (Photo Credit: The New York Times)

One of the exhibit’s most captivating sections is “Threads of Identity,” where garments and accessories are displayed as living testaments to the power of fashion, in shaping individual and communal identity. It invites visitors to explore the symbolism behind each thread, bead, and stitch, discovering how clothing has long served as a canvas for expressing one’s tribe, status, and beliefs.

The Brooklyn Museum’s exhibition goes beyond mere aesthetics, embracing the rich cultural diversity that has woven the fabric of Africa. Traditional garments from different regions highlight the nuances of style that have evolved over time, while modern interpretations showcase how today’s designers are reimagining and reinvigorating these age-old traditions.

Strolling through the exhibit, it becomes evident that African fashion is more than just a visual spectacle – it’s a cultural ambassador that transcends borders and preconceptions. The exhibit’s organizers have ingeniously juxtaposed historical pieces with contemporary ones, illustrating how cultural heritage remains a wellspring of inspiration for modern designers seeking to blend tradition with innovation, without making cultural appropation mistakes.

Looks from the African Fashion exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum. (Photo Credit: The Cut)

A focal point of the exhibit is the spotlight on the rise of African designers onto the global fashion stage. Names that were once whispered are now being heralded as trailblazers, with their creations gracing international runways and red carpets. The exhibit showcases a curated selection of garments and accessories that reflect the ingenious fusion of traditional craftsmanship with modern aesthetics.

Beyond the visual feast, the Brooklyn Museum has curated a series of interactive workshops and events that invite visitors to experience African fashion in a hands-on way. From beadwork and fabric dyeing workshops to talks by contemporary designers, the exhibit fosters a dynamic dialogue about the past, present, and future of African fashion.

Lagos’s Acclaimed Concept Store Alára Pops Up at the Brooklyn Museum. (Photo Credit; Vogue)

As the final room of the exhibit comes into view, you are met with a stunning visual tableau that encapsulates the essence of the journey they’ve embarked upon. The room presents a dynamic collage of photographs, sketches, and quotes, revealing the profound impact of African fashion on global culture and consciousness.

The African Fashion exhibit stands as a triumph, weaving together threads of history, identity, and innovation into a rich tapestry that captures the essence of Africa’s diverse fashion landscape. This celebration of style and culture not only dazzles the eyes but also touches the heart, reminding us that fashion is an art form that transcends time, borders, and expectations.

Be sure to catch our video lecture series to learn more about the history of West African textiles:

poster frame of lesson West African Textiles_ Manjak Cloth of Senegal

UoF lesson- West African Textiles: Senegal-Manjak Cloth

So, tell us, which fashion exhibits have you visited this summer?

A CULTURAL EXTRAVAGANZA: INDIA COUTURE FASHION 2023

Antonia Sardone - August 19, 2023 - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Shows

India Couture Fashion Week 2023 Looks from Left to Right: Gaurav Gupta, Rimzin Dady, Isha J’s, and Rahul Mishra. (Photo Credit: Euronews)

The spotlight has once again turned toward the enchanting world of fashion, as the India Couture Fashion Week (ICFW) 2023, unfolded in a resplendent celebration of creativity, luxury, and cultural heritage. A fusion of tradition and innovation, the event left fashion aficionados and industry insiders awestruck with its breathtaking displays of opulence and craftsmanship.

Held at predominantly at the prestigious Taj Palace Hotel in in New Delhi, from July 25^th to August 2, 2023, India Couture Fashion Week transported attendees into a realm where imagination met reality. As the curtains rose, the runway was set ablaze with designs that spoke volumes about India’s rich history and contemporary flair. A harmonious amalgamation of hand-woven textiles, intricate embroideries, and innovative silhouettes took center stage, demonstrating the seamless fusion of traditional Indian craftsmanship and modern design sensibilities.

One of the standout features of ICFW 2023 was its emphasis on celebrating India’s cultural diversity. Designers drew inspiration from various regions and states, giving rise to a myriad of collections that showcased the vibrant tapestry of Indian heritage.

A look from Isha J’s India Couture Week 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Xinhua)

The runway itself became a canvas where designers painted their dreams. Extravagant sets, innovative lighting, and carefully curated music elevated each showcase into a mesmerizing spectacle. Models glided down the runway like ethereal beings, breathing life into the designs they adorned. The fusion of music, movement, and couture left the audience spellbound, creating an immersive experience that transcended the mere presentation of clothing.

India Couture Fashion Week 2023 proved that innovation and tradition need not be at odds. Designers seamlessly integrated cutting-edge techniques, sustainable practices, and futuristic fabrics into their creations, while still paying homage to age-old crafts. From 3D-printed embellishments to upcycled textiles, the event showcased a commitment to pushing the boundaries of creativity without compromising on authenticity.

A look from Rahul Mishra’s India Couture Week 2023 Collection. (Photo Credit: Euronews)

The fashion extravaganza was graced by the presence of renowned celebrities, fashion icons, and industry moguls. The front rows were adorned with A-listers, showcasing their support for the Indian fashion scene. Many stars also walked the runways, such as, actress Kiara Advani For Falguni Shane Peacock, actress Aditi Rao Hydari For Ritu Kumar, and actors Sara Ali Khan and Aditya Roy Kapur For Shantnu & Nikhil, to name a few. Their presence not only added to the glitz and glamour of the event but also demonstrated the cultural significance of fashion in India.

In a world where fashion is constantly evolving, India Couture Fashion Week 2023 16^th annual edition, served as a reminder that tradition can be a wellspring of innovation, and that the spirit of creativity knows no bounds. As the lights dimmed and the applause echoed, one thing was certain: the India Couture Fashion Week had once again etched its mark on the global fashion landscape, leaving us eagerly anticipating the next chapter in this mesmerizing saga of style and substance.

Here are a few highlights from ICFW 2023 that proudly showcased India’s craftsmanship:

RAHUL MISHRA

Shraddha Kapoor Steals the Show in Rahul Mishra’s Show at India Couture Week 2023. (Photo Credit: Tribune India)

Rahul Mishra is a popular designer in India. This season he created plenty of buzz as he had the stunning actress Shraddha Kapoor walk the runway. His Couture 2023 collection included an array of contemporary silhouettes with traditional craftsmanship, perfectly blending the countries customary embroideries with a modern twist.

FALGUNI SHANE PEACOCK

Actress Kiara Advani walks for Falguni Shane Peacock’s Couture 2023 Show. (Photo Credit: Republic World)

It’s a Barbie world and Barbiecore continues to permeate the fashion industry. So, it’s no surprise that renowned fashion brand Falguni Shane Peacock was inspired by the famous doll and blockbuster movie (as of writing, the movie has earned over $1.18 billion). The design duo featured plenty of showstopping pink creations, most notably the closing look that was worn by actress Kiara Advani, a pink embellished bra top and skirt, that was Barbie to the core.

RITU KUMAR

Aditi Rao Hydari walks the runway at Ritu Kumar’s India Couture Week 2023. (Photo Credit: ANI News)

Ritu Kumar is known for her regal weddingwear creations, most notably her articulate hand embroideries, as well as the remarkable attention to detail that is incorporated in every piece she creates. Kumar also had a notable celebrity in her show, actress Aditi Rao Hydari who wore a show-stopping look that was absolutely royal in a white and gold two piece that was created out of zardosi (a type of heavy and elaborate metal embroidery) and hints of Kashmiri embroidery.

VARUN BAHL

Bhumi Pednekar walks Varun Bahl’s Couture 2023 show. (Photo Credit: Tribune India)

Actress Bhumi Pednekar looked stunning in an intricate, floral look made of hand embroidered flowers. Varun Bahl’s collection titled Inner Bloom 2023, was a whimsical dream.

RIMZIM DADU

Ananya Panday walks Rimzin Dadu’s India Couture 2023 Show. (Photo Credit: India TV News)

Rimzim Dadu’s 2023 masterpiece captures the meaning of life through the concept of ebb and flow, showcased through abstract designs. Actress Ananya Panday shines bright in a gold bra and skirt look.

SHANTNU & NIKHIL

Actors Sara Ali Khan and Aditya Roy Kapur walk for Shantnu & Nikhil’s Couture 2023 Show. (Photo Credit: India Today)

Shantnu & Nikhil create the perfect blend of Italian heritage and Indian craft. Shantanu and Nikhil’s Etheria drew inspiration from the West, yet they embraced their cultural roots. The designers stated in their show notes, “A timeless journey through the opulence where Italian allure meets Indian splendor, indulging in the magic of the Gatsby Era and the grandeur of Roman palaces.”

So tell us, which designers from India Couture Fashion Week have inspired you?

The Vital Role of Back-to-School Fashion in the Ever-Evolving Fashion Industry

Antonia Sardone - August 12, 2023 - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Business

Gen Z is embracing the Y2K trend. (Photo Credit: Getty Images for the NY Post)

As the sun-kissed days of summer begin to fade, a palpable excitement fills the air. It’s that time of year again – the season of fresh starts, eager minds and boundless possibilities. Back-to-school, a tradition as old as academia itself, has transformed into a runway for the fashion industry, a crucial showcase of innovation, style, and adaptability. In this era of constant change, where trends emerge and dissipate at the speed of a mouse click, back-to-school fashion stands as a testament to the fashion industry’s vitality and enduring relevance.

Back-to-school fashion acts as a playground where designers, retailers, and consumers alike come to play. It’s a symphony of colors, fabrics, and silhouettes, a canvas where creativity knows no bounds. The industry seizes this opportunity to flex its design muscles, concocting garments that mirror the hopes and aspirations of a new academic year. And has traditionally been a major marketing season for the industry. This year is no exception.

Olivia Rodrigo is a punk rock cutie. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

For the 2023/24 back-to-school season, designers have reimagined classic staples – from plaid skirts and varsity jackets to crisp button-down shirts – infusing them with a modern twist that reflects the evolving tastes of Generation Z (1995 to 2009) and Generation Alpha (2010 to 2024). These reimagined classics become more than just clothing; they become statements of individuality and belonging. This fusion of timelessness and innovation is a reminder that fashion is, at its core, a celebration of the present, while embracing echoes of the past.

Bella Hadid’s preppy with a twist vibe will surely be a back-to-school hit. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

The back-to-school rush serves as a microcosm of the industry’s intricate dance with trends. It’s not merely about forecasting the next big thing; it’s about deciphering the intricate tapestry of consumer preferences. As students head back to their classrooms, they’re not just armed with textbooks – they’re equipped with an arsenal of trends, ready to express themselves in the ever-evolving language of style.

Industry leaders meticulously study the back-to-school market to identify patterns that offer insights into the future. The colors that capture attention, the fabrics that evoke emotion, and the styles that foster confidence all act as signposts, guiding the fashion world towards the next chapter of its narrative.

NUTURING BRAND LOYALTY AND IDENTITY

Nike back-to-school promotional looks. (Photo Credit: Nike)

Back-to-school fashion transcends the realm of aesthetics; it’s an exercise in identity formation. As students walk through the school gates clad in their carefully curated ensembles, they’re broadcasting more than just fashion choices – they’re showcasing their identities, their aspirations, and their stories. This emotional connection fosters brand loyalty that can last a lifetime.

For the industry, this loyalty isn’t just a fleeting affair; it’s an investment in a lifelong relationship. The brands that succeed in capturing the hearts of back-to-school shoppers often become woven into their stories, becoming trusted companions on their journey through life.

SUSTAINABILTY AND ETHICAL CONSIDERATIONS

Levi’s sustainable denim looks. (Photo Credit: Levi’s)

In recent years, the fashion industry has faced increasing scrutiny over its environmental and ethical practices. Back-to-school fashion serves as an opportunity for the industry to demonstrate its commitment to sustainability and responsible production. Brands that prioritize eco-friendly materials, ethical labor practices, and conscious consumption are not only shaping their own narratives but also contributing to a broader movement of positive change.

THE ECONOMIC BOOST OF BACK-TO-SCHOOL SHOPPING

Back-to-school fashion is an important sales and marketing tool for industry. (Photo Credit: SmartAsset)

The impact of back-to-school shopping on the economy is profound. In 2022, the back-to-school shopping season injected a surge of vitality into various sectors. From retail giants to local boutiques, the cash registers chimed in unison, contributing billions to the GDP. The ripple effect extends beyond traditional school supplies; it’s a time when electronics, clothing, accessories, and even home furnishing experience a surge in demand. The financial heartbeat of countless businesses races as they gear up to cater to the influx of eager shoppers.

According to the National Retail Federation and Prosper Insights & Analytics, “back-to-school spending is expected to reach an unparalleled $41.5 billion, up from $36.9 billion last year and the previous high of $37.1 billion in 2021. Back-to-college spending is expected to hit $94 billion, about $20 billion more than last year’s record.”

Air Jordan’s and straight leg denim is a back-to-school favorite. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

“Back-to-class shopping is one of the most important consumer shopping occasions of the year. Our research for 2023 shows American consumers are eager to jumpstart their back-to-school and college purchases early,” NRF President and CEO Matthew Shay said. “Retailers have been preparing for months to ensure they are well stocked with essential items that families and students need for the school year.”

Since 2003, the National Retail Federation has conducted a thorough survey on back-to-class shopping trends. This year’s research included 7,843 consumers and was fielded June 30-July 6 with a margin of error of plus or minus 1.1 percentage points.

Back-to-school shopping is well underway. According to the National Retail Federation, “as of early July, more than half (55%) of consumers who are buying for back-to-class said they have already started shopping. This is on par with last year, but is up from 44% in 2019, and is in line with the trend of consumers shopping earlier for major spending events. While consumers have started shopping early, as of early July, 85% said they still have at least half of their shopping left to do.”

Planned back to school Source NRF’s Annual 2023 Back to School Survey, conducted by Prosper Insights & Analytics

Families with children in elementary through high school plan to spend an average of $890.07 on back-to-school items this year, approximately $25 more than last year’s record of $864.35, and a new high. College students and their families are expected to spend an average of $1,366.95 per person, up from $1,199.43 last year, and a new record from the previous record of $1,200.32 in 2021. Since 2019, back-to-college spending has nearly doubled.

Kendeall Jenner’s chill Ninties Vibe. (Photo Credit: Getty Images)

For many back-to-school consumers, the leading destinations are online, department stores and discount stores with the more creative and sustainably-minded, hitting up resale clothing shops or are making or upcycling their own clothes. “Even though consumers plan to spend more on school and college-related items this year, they are still looking to find the best value and deals,” Prosper Executive Vice President of Strategy Phil Rist said. “Consumers are stretching their dollars by comparing prices, considering off-brand or store-brand items, and are more likely to shop at discount stores than last year.”

So tell us, what are your back-to-school wardrobe plans? Will you be making or upcycling your own clothes? Thrift shop hunting? Or going traditional: online, department store or mass merchant store?

Announcing UoF’s Newest Lessons: Drafting Cut & Sew Knits – Part 1

Francesca Sterlacci - July 30, 2023 - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Business, Knits, Pattern Making, Retail Math, Sewing

Drafting a Women’s Stable Knit T-shirt from Measurements lesson preview

Since launching the University of Fashion in 2008 the mission of the company has always been to preserve the art and craft of fashion design. Now, as we enter our 16th year in business, I am proud to say that we are not only holding to that mission, but have expanded into other areas of fashion education, including fashion retailing and merchandising, visual merchandising, fashion law, influencer marketing and the newest fashion industry area; 3D digital design.

We now have over 500 lessons in 13 different disciplines and we continue to add additional content to our library monthly. In fact, we recently filmed an entire cut & sew knit lesson series in response to student suggestions. From learning about knit fabrics and stretch ratios to drafting knit slopers – you asked & we delivered.

Your Knit Journey Starts Here

Introduction to Knit Fabrics preview Knit Fabric Principles preview

The first step when designing a cut and sew knit garment is to learn about knit fabric. In our lesson entitled, Introduction to Knit Fabrics, we demonstrate the difference between woven and knit fabrics and how knit fabric is structured. You will learn the meaning of terms like knit and purl, wale and course and how a weft knit differs from a warp knit. We will teach you about different types of yarns and how knits are made so that you will make the best knit fabric choice for each of your designs.

In our lesson, Knit Fabric Principles, you will learn more about designing with knits. We’ll teach you all about the four characteristics of knit fabrics, what it means when a knit fabric has 1-way, 2-way or 4-way stretch, as well as the six categories of stretch ratio percentages, so that you will be able to draft your knit design for your knit fabric choice.

How to Draft Your Knit Slopers

Drafting a Women’s Relaxed Fit Knit T-shirt from Measurements

Drafting a pattern from body measurements can be challenging, but not at University of Fashion. When you draft your T-shirt slopers from our lessons, Fitted Stable Knit T-shirt and the Relaxed Fit T-shirt from Measurements, we provide downloadable charts and diagrams to help you locate all of the key measurement-taking points. We also provide downloadable worksheets so that you can easily record your measurements. The women’s fitted stable knit T-shirt sloper will become the basis for all of your knit designs for 1-way and 2 way stretch fabric.

Drafting a 4-Way Knit Stretch Sloper

Converting a Stable Knit T-shirt & Sleeve Sloper to 4-way Stretch Knit Sloper preview

Once you’ve drafted your Fitted Stable Knit T-shirt sloper, you’re ready to learn how to convert that sloper to a 4-way knit stretch sloper. Our lesson, Converting a Stable Knit T-shirt & Sleeve Sloper to a 4-way Stretch Knit Sloper, results in a sloper that can be used for all of your activewear, shapewear and swimwear garment designs.

Designing & Drafting a Cut & Sew Knit Legging & Unitard

Drafting a Women’s Knit Unitard preview Drafting a Legging preview

By combining the 4-way Stretch Knit Sloper, drafted in our lesson Converting a Stable Knit T-shirt & Sleeve Sloper to 4-way Stretch Knit, with the legging drafted in our lesson Drafting a Legging, you’ll learn how to combine the two slopers to draft a unitard from our lesson, Drafting a Women’s Knit Unitard.

Designing a Cut & Sew Knit Hoodie

Drafting a Hooded Knit Top preview

Using the sleeveless stable knit T-shirt sloper drafted in our lesson, Drafting a Women’s Fitted Stable Knit T-shirt from Measurements you will learn how to draft a hooded knit top made of a cotton/Lycra single knit jersey. We’ll teach you how to interpret a sketch to so that you can ascertain key measurements, such as the neck drop, the neck opening and the height and width of the hood.

Stay tuned for more cut & sew knit lessons: Drafting a Camisole with a Shelf Bra, a Racerback Halter Tank; and a knit neckline series that includes: how to draft an Asymmetric, Built-up, Boatneck, Collared, Cowl, Crewneck, Off Shoulder, Scoop, Square, Surplice, Turtleneck and a V-Neckline.

Fashion Industry’s Top Recruiter: Sue Lamoreaux

Francesca Sterlacci - July 24, 2023 - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Education, Fashion Tips, New York Garment District

Sue Lamoreaux – Managing Director at Solomon Page (Image credit: Solomon Page)

If you have been working in the fashion industry for a while, then you probably already know that the best executive recruiting firm is Solomon Page. And, if you’re lucky, you may have already met Sue Lamoreaux, one of the founding members of Solomon Page.

This week’s blog is dedicated to Sue, who is celebrating her 32^nd year with SP. She has been placing candidates in roles ranging from Presidents, VP’s, Directors, Chief Commercial officers, Supply Chain, Marketing leads, Global Sourcing, ECommerce, Chief Digital, General Managers (GM’s), Product Development, Creative Directors, in addition to strategic mid-level positions across all disciplines in the fashion industry.

In 2022, and for the sixth year in a row, Forbes named Solomon Page as one of America’s Best Professional Recruiting firms.

I have personally known Sue for years, ever since I was chair of the Fashion Dept. at FIT. Sue regularly gave of her time critiquing, advising and guiding graduating students on their portfolios, resumes and interview preparation (she has been doing the same for Parsons for the past 10 years).

Recently, I had a chance to sit down with Sue to talk about the job market, current and future hiring trends in the fashion industry, and how the industry is utilizing University of Fashion for upskilling its personnel. Sue is a treasure trove of information, and I am thrilled and honored that she has agreed to share her knowledge with us. Here goes:

Francesca: What are the main jobs you recruit for in the fashion industry?

Sue: I recruit Design Directors, VP of Design, Creative Directors, Merchandising, Planning, Digital Marketing, Brand Marketing, Ecommerce, Technical Design, Sales, Global Sourcing /Production, Supply Chain/Operation. These would be the most frequent, but there are plenty of other titles and categories in Fashion that I place.

Francesca: Can you give salary ranges for each job?

Sue: This is a tricky question since the salaries vary from city/state, companies, associated benefits packages, a job’s specific responsibilities, if it’s hybrid or on site (salary adjustments post Covid). The hot topic right now is salary equity for those who are back in office versus those who are permitted to remain remote or hybrid (as commuting and tax situations can result in cost differences). I have found that many candidates are assuming that they will still have the option to be hybrid or remote when seeking a new job, but the majority of New York area companies have a return to office directive and new employees will especially have even less flexibility than most. It’s always best to ask upfront about specific related policies, since this is not a negotiating point for most companies.

Francesca: How important is going to a fashion school for someone looking for a job as a designer, a product developer, etc.?

Sue: Very important… Some companies even have a baseline requirement for a bachelor’s degree, or at least an associate’s degree, and there are many competing candidates who have master’s degrees that you will be competing with for candidate selection. But the relevant skills are still critical in your application.

I know many graduates of design schools who needed supplementary technical construction training, since many of the schools don’t spend enough time in the semester honing the craft. I always recommend taking that needed course with University of Fashion so you can be confident in your skills. Prospective employers expect you to know garment construction and specs before you start working and not to be learning/teaching on the job.

Francesca: Are there certain fashion schools that employers value most? And why?

Sue: There’s a wide variety… FIT, Parsons, CSM, SCAD, Otis, RISD, Kent, Marist College, University of Cincinnati, among others. Sometimes it’s the knowledge and endorsement of the faculty, or the hiring manager is an alumnus, or sometimes it has to do with the way the programs are structured, and they know the students have worked substantive internships all 4 years. Companies like when they can hire a graduate who has had work experience at a brand they know. Or even stay on part time during the school year, post working in the summer of junior year work experience. Brand experience matters much more than a study abroad program your junior year of college, if you are weighing out whether or not it’s worth it or will make a difference in your application.

Francesca: For product development positions, do companies require hands on knowledge of on-the-table skills such as pattern making, sewing, and draping?

Sue: Yes, it’s very important for product development people to have foundational knowledge of garment construction. Many times, they are involved in the fit sessions and it’s important when they are looking at cost, fabric capabilities, what will work, and offering options/alternatives for better pricing etc. Sometimes companies forgo the designer and just have a product developer who could be creating private label for their accounts and are adapting and modifying garments for the client. They don’t always need to sketch, and many times have a great overseas partner to work with.

Francesca: How important is a portfolio in a job search?

Sue: A designer must have a portfolio; a pdf of work that is ready to go (and can be edited easily) and/or a website that is easy to access. Remember, many may be looking at your website from their phone, so be sure it’s easy to view from a mobile device.

Francesca: Can you provide insight into what should be included in a portfolio for a design position?

Sue: It should be comprised of several components: Trend/aspirational boards showing images, color, fabric and details. Illustrations are important, flats and something technical to show you can execute a tech pack. Additionally, computer work, Photoshop, illustrator is a baseline requirement for everyone! As soon as your work is being viewed, it takes an experienced hiring manager seconds to determine if he/she connects with your style, your brand messaging, and your technical accuracy. If they don’t connect, you probably won’t be asked to interview.

View UoF’s 9-part series on how to plan a stellar portfolio:

Francesca: How in demand is 3D design education in the industry?

Sue: Some companies have invested heavily in it and will only interview candidates who have been trained on it, since it’s expensive for them to train you and you will have a transition of time before you are proficient. So, if you have the opportunity to learn it, it’s in your best interest to learn it!

Francesca: Is agism a ’thing’ in the fashion industry?

Sue: Age and experience are not something to hide! Experienced people are the managers and leaders of companies. VP level, SVP, Chief, President, CEO’s all need experience in order to have earned that position. With that said, it is critical to stay up to date on key technology skills and things like industry trends and purchasing habits. Continuing to educate yourself ensures and protects your longevity in the industry.

Francesca: How hard is it for someone right out of school to get a job?

Sue: Right now, the hiring market is soft, but people who have work experience during college and have standout work in their portfolios, the right skills companies are in need of, and are seeking work in the growing disciplines, they are still getting jobs. If you don’t get hired full-time, see if you can get an entry level freelance job so you can earn some work experience and brand to document.

Francesca: What advice would you give someone who is thinking about a design job in the fashion industry?

Sue: Get your education at the best place you can, be sure you work during school and set your expectations realistically. You may not ultimately be a runway designer, but you could just as valuable as a technical design/patternmaker, who is the right hand to the Design Director. (i.e.: if the garment doesn’t fit, the customer isn’t buying it!).

University of Fashion’s lesson: Creating a Swim Bottom Tech Pack in Illustrator

Francesca: How can working with a recruiter help me in my job search and where can I go about making those contacts?

Sue: Working with an experienced recruiter is a huge plus, but not every company will pay for the service. Many companies post jobs on their own website and LinkedIn. Entry level jobs are infrequently listed with recruiters and are addressed internally, generally. Sometimes I will get an entry level assignment because the internal recruiting has been unsuccessful, so always ask.

If you are able to work with a recruiter for a particular search the benefit will be that you will have guidance for interview preparation, portfolio recommendations, resume tips, salary negotiation assistance, etc. Honesty, it is very important in this partnership. Please know that if you have already submitted your resume to a company on your own, your recruiter will be blocked from representing you for that role.

Francesca: What are some things I should be sure to highlight in my resume, cover letter, and portfolio that employers look out for? And how can I make myself stand out to an employer when I am one of so many candidates applying for a role?

Sue: They look for relevant experience to their brand identity and the specific position they are recruiting for. Research the company and say something about them. Look at their job post. For example, if they want 3D experience and you don’t have it, you probably won’t get flagged to interview. Or if your portfolio work is so different than their aesthetic, you may not be selected.

Francesca: What advice would you give to someone going on an initial interview?

Sue: Remember, first interviews are still predominantly video. Be prepared for that. Make sure that you can upload everything smoothly and quickly while you are speaking. Be sure to load whatever video format the company is using to your computer well before the interview, so it’s ready to go (I have 5 different brands loaded on my computer, so don’t assume that everyone uses, Zoom) And of course the obvious, research the company!

Be sure to subscribe to the Solomon Page Blog, where you’ll find lots of free tips:

Francesca: What is your outlook for the future of employment within the fashion industry? Which sectors do you predict will grow and which do you think may decline?

Sue: Marketing is still the biggest department for fashion companies. Looking for work in this area and all of the subsets (i.e., brand marketing, digital marketing, performance marketing, social, ecommerce, communication, etc.) gives you a better chance of finding work. Some departments, such as sales, have shrunk (but not gone away) as more companies are direct-to-consumer (DTC), although there still is a need for good salespeople to be represented in a brick & mortar setting.

Many thanks to Sue for sharing her expertise with our UoF subscribers and followers. Here is Sue’s contact info should you want to thank her yourself:

Susan Lamoreaux

Solomon Page

P (212) 824-1580 x2582

C (908) 451-5537
in Connect with me

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BARBIE’S WORLD: A COSTUME DESIGNER’S DREAM COME TRUE

Antonia Sardone - July 16, 2023 - Current Topics in Fashion

Barbie movie’s main trailer.( Video Courtesy of YouTube·Warner Bros. Pictures)

If you asked some of today’s fashion designers what inspired them to pursue a career in fashion, odds are that they would tell you it was their Barbie doll. UoF’s founder, Francesca Sterlacci, is definitely one of them. Many young girls (and boys) often started out playing with baby dolls (or, if you grew up in the 1950s a Patty Play Pal), but once they got a look at Barbie, with her 11.5 inch human figure, 39″ bust, nipped-in waist, waterfall blonde ponytail, zebra-print swimsuit and kitten heels (known to collectors as “Ponytail Number One”)…they never went back! Launched by Mattel in 1959, Barbie took the world by storm with sales of 300,000 dolls in its first year of production. According to Mattel, there are in excess of 100,000 collectors of Barbie dolls worldwide today, with Düsseldorf collector, Bettina Dorfman (age 61) the Guinness Book of Records record-holder for her 18,500-strong Barbie collection that is currently worth $307,500.

Kissy Dolls and a Patty Play Pal doll by Ideal (Image credit: Etsy.com)

Barbie dolls circa 1960s (Image credit: Etsy.com)

As the highly anticipated Barbie movie hits the big screen on July 21, 2023, it’s impossible not to reflect back at the doll that captured the imagination of so many. To learn more about Barbie’s evolution, representing 150 careers and more than 40 nationalities in the 64 years of her existence, read our blog post from July 2022 entitled, Barbiecore & Why Barbie is Not Just Some Dumb Blonde.

Today, over 90 percent of American girls between the ages of 3 to 12 have owned a Barbie doll. And even though, throughout the years, Barbie has assumed many professions, from doctor and archeologist, to rock star and computer engineer, for many she remains a stereotype. It therefore took incredible guts and vision for Margot Robbie to accept the iconic role of Barbie and for Greta Gerwig to direct it, especially in the #MeToo era. Thier decision carried a profound significance, as Robbie’s portrayal breaks stereotypes and challenges traditional gender norms.

The plot hinges on Margot Robbie Barbie (apparently there are other characters also named Barbie and Ken), being expelled from Barbie Land for being a less-than-perfect-looking doll. She somehow snaps out of her dollhouse mentality, suddenly gets flat feet and starts thinking about dying. She then embarks on a journey to the human world “to find true happiness” where she meets a range of differently abled and raced Barbies along the way, thereby conveying an empowering message.

Barbie’s fashion choices play a pivotal role in showcasing diversity and inclusivity through the work of a very talented costume designer (Jacqueline Durran) and her selective network of fashion industry designers that include, Stella McCartney, Christian Siriano and Iris van Herpen. Let’s dive into the fashion-forward world of Barbie and explore how these incredible designers brought Barbie’s glamorous big screen looks to life.

JACQUELINE DURRAN CREATES FASHION MAGIC

Margot Robbie as Barbie in the new Barbie film. (Photo Credit: Warner Bros. Pictures)

Barbie has always been renowned for her impeccable fashion sense, setting trends and inspiring millions of fans worldwide. In the movie, Barbie’s wardrobe undergoes a remarkable evolution, reflecting the diverse and ever-changing world we live in. The fashion choices presented on-screen celebrate body positivity, inclusivity and the importance of self-expression. Summer 2022, when the movie was being filmed, became the summer of Barbiecore, as every celebrity, It-Girl, and social-media darling dressed in head-to-toe pink in anticipation of the Barbie movie. The trend continued into 2023.

Fun Fact: Barbie’s home was inspired by the midcentury modernism designs found in Palm Springs, California and the iconic Barbie Dreamhouses. And, that the making of Barbie Land caused an international shortage of pink paint?

Barbie’s disco look. (Photo Credit: Warner Bros. Pictures)

Barbie and Ken’s western looks. (Photo Credit: Warner Bros. Pictures)

Before delving into the collaborative efforts, it is important to acknowledge Jacqueline Durran’s incredible talent as a costume designer. With a portfolio that includes award-winning work in films like “Anna Karenina” and “Little Women,” Durran has established herself as a visionary in the industry. Her keen eye for detail, historical accuracy, and her ability to craft characters through costume, make her a sought-after collaborator for directors and fashion houses alike.

Speaking of costume designers, we’d like to take this opportunity to give a shout-out to costume designer Ruth E. Carter and the launch of her new book “The Art of Ruth E. Carter: Costuming Black History and the Afrofuture, from Do the Right Thing to Black Panther.” Carter is the first Black woman to win an Oscar for costume design, the first Black woman to win two Oscars in any category and the second costume designer to get a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. It’s time for Hollywood and the fashion industry to pay attention to pay inequity, specifically between costume designers and their peers; production designers and fashion designers.

COLLABORATING WITH FASHION DESIGNERS

Barbie’s classic swimsuit look. (Photo Credit: Warner Bros. Pictures)

For the 2023 Barbie movie, Jacqueline Durran decided to collaborate with fashion industry designers, recognizing the significance of Barbie as a style icon. Together, they created a seamless fusion of high fashion and cinematic storytelling. Here are a few designers who brought Barbie’s looks to life.

Renowned for her commitment to sustainable fashion, Stella McCartney joined forces with Jacqueline Durran to bring eco-conscious design to the Barbie movie. McCartney’s signature elegance and ethical sensibilities perfectly complement Barbie’s message of empowerment and environmental responsibility. Expect to see stunning ensembles crafted from innovative sustainable fabrics and adorned with McCartney’s distinctive touch.

Known for his bold and inclusive designs, Christian Siriano’s collaboration with Jacqueline Durran injects a vibrant and diverse energy into the Barbie movie. Siriano’s mastery of draping, impeccable craftsmanship, and his celebration of different body types make him an ideal partner for dressing Barbie and her friends. Anticipate a range of show-stopping couture gowns and fierce yet playful ensembles that showcase Siriano’s unique flair.

Pushing the boundaries of fashion and technology, Iris van Herpen brings her avant-garde sensibilities to the Barbie movie in collaboration with Jacqueline Durran. Van Herpen’s mesmerizing designs, often inspired by nature and science, add a touch of otherworldly magic to the film. Expect breathtakingly intricate and ethereal costumes, blending traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge techniques, such as 3D printing and laser cutting.

The collaborative efforts between Jacqueline Durran and her chosen team of renowned fashion designers, promises a fashion spectacle like no other. Through their unique creative vision, Stella McCartney, Christian Siriano, and Iris van Herpen contribute their artistry and distinct design perspectives to Barbie’s world. As audiences await the release of the Barbie movie, they can look forward to a dazzling display of fashion magic borne from the synergy between Jacqueline Durran and these esteemed designers.

Barbie (Margot Robbie) and Ken (Ryan Gosling) rollerblade looks. (Photo Credit: Warner Bros. Pictures)

So, tell us, how excited are you to see the Barbie Movie?

Spotlight on Sustainable Designer: Eudora Tucker

Francesca Sterlacci - July 2, 2023 - Current Topics in Fashion, Designer FashionSpeak, Fashion Business, Fashion Innovation, Student Spotlight, Sustainability, Women in Fashion

Eudora Tucker – New York City sustainable fashion designer (Image credit: Eudora Tucker)

This week’s blogpost is dedicated to Custom Collaborative’s latest success story, NYC-based sustainable fashion designer, Eudora Tucker. But first, a bit about Custom Collaborative (CC).

Custom Collaborative is a Harlem-based non-profit 501(c)(3) founded in 2015 by Executive Director Ngozi Okaro. The organization provides free training and ongoing support for women from low-income and immigrant communities through their entrepreneurship and workforce-development programs. Their Training Institute teaches the art, craft and techniques used in sustainable garment-making, as well as ethical business practices in the fashion industry.

CC’s mission is to help women professionalize their sewing and design skills, overcome barriers to employment, and, ultimately, bring greater equity and inclusivity to the business of fashion.

University of Fashion partnered with Custom Collaborative in 2020, gifting full access to our fashion education content library. Since then, Custom Collaborative has graduated 10 cohorts of ‘fashion-preneurs’ who are making their mark by starting their own sustainable fashion brand.

Last week, I had the chance to interview Eudora and learned about her studies at CC, her design philosophy and her career aspirations. Here goes:

Eudora Tucker’s Graffiti dress (Image credit: Camila Falquez)

Francesca: Tell me about your journey into fashion. Are you NYC born and raised?

Eudora: I was born and raised in Brooklyn. As a Native New Yorker, fashion has always been on my radar. I knew I wanted to be a fashion designer early on and attended The High School of Art and Design to study fashion illustration and then went on to study at FIT. Unfortunately, life happened, forcing me to pivot, but fashion has always been a huge interest. I started seriously getting back into fashion when my idol, Prince, died in 2016. As a lifelong fan, I was devastated when he passed away and I started making Prince themed jean jackets and outfits as a tribute to him. I wore them to different Prince related events that I attended. People seemed to love and admire my designs and complimented me on my creativity. That reignited my passion and pushed me to seriously pursue my dreams of being a fashion designer again. I was hand sewing and using adhesives to create my designs, which meant there were constant repairs and maintenance needed. I knew finding sewing classes would be the next step if I wanted to seriously start making custom designs for others.

Eudora Tucker’s Embellished Purple Vineyard Jacket (Image credit: Eudora Tucker)

Francesca: Can you tell me about the program at Custom Collaborative? How rigorous was it and what types of things did you learn?

Eudora: The program is a 15-week course that meets Monday through Friday from 9am to 3pm. It was a serious commitment, and it was truly intense. I had never used a sewing machine before so when our instructor, Delia Alleyne, showed us how to thread the needle on the first day, my head nearly exploded. I didn’t think I would ever be able to thread the machine, let alone sew something together. Fear and self-doubt overcame me, and I was questioning why I ever signed up. Delia encouraged and helped us overcome our fears and by the end of the day, I was able to successfully thread my machine. I knew it was going to be a tough road ahead, but I was up for the challenge. During those 15 weeks there were many tears shed out of frustration, but also with happiness when I was able to get through another tough lesson. In the end I completed the course with the ability to design and sew; a portfolio of work including illustrations for two collections, which included inspiration, mood and fabric boards; an awesome business plan that I wrote, and most importantly, the knowledge and confidence to go forward in pursuit of my dream.

Eudora Tucker’s Rocket Man Jacket (Image credit: Eudora Tucker)

Francesca: How were the University of Fashion lessons utilized at CC?

Eudora: We constantly referred to the University of Fashion lessons while studying. We used them to reinforce lessons that Delia taught us and to complete projects on our own. I am a visual learner, so it was a tremendous help and resource for me. The videos that were the biggest help were the lessons on the invisible zipper, pattern making and layout, and draping. These were life saving for me. Due to time constraints, and the amount of projects we covered, it was impossible to learn and complete everything in class. The videos allowed us to review the task, step by step, on our own time to complete the projects correctly.

Eudora Tucker’s Incomparable Lady Day Shirt Dress (Image credit: Eudora Tucker)

Francesca: Can you tell me about your capstone project at CC?

Eudora: My capstone project was a hand painted, full length gown with a train. My design was inspired by the feelings of fear, uncertainty and sense of lawlessness in NYC post Covid-19. With the closing of so many businesses, the graffiti artists had once again transformed our city’s landscape with their artwork, reminiscent of the late 1970s and 80s. Using donated fabric that I treated to create the Ombre effect, the design ascends from darkness to light, reflecting the transitioning of Oppression and Anarchy, rising out of Out Rage and Despair, through Faith and Unity, to ultimately arrive at Love and Peace. My design was chosen as the finale of Cohort 9’s graduation runway show and was also featured in both Vogue Business and Harper’s Bazaar articles. Not only were these very proud moments for me, but they also serve as a testament that my perseverance and hard work are truly paying off.

Eudora Tucker’s Queen Bee Jacket (Image credit: Eudora Tucker)

Francesca: What made you want to focus on upcycling and sustainable design?

Eudora: Custom Collaborative is an organization that is built on the principles of fashion sustainability. I never heard of fashion sustainability and, to be honest, I was a consumer of fast fashion without even knowing it. I had never heard of the term “fast fashion” until I came to Custom Collaborative. Once I found out what it was and how it affects the planet; coupled with the unfair labor practices that affect the seamstresses that work in the factories, I quickly got on board. I started changing my purchasing habits and decided to focus on upcycling and sustainable design. I truly enjoy taking a “pre-loved” garment and repurposing it into something new and creative. It allows me to create one of a kind, statement pieces that make my clientele feel special when they wear it.

Eudora Tucker’s Dear Mum Jacket (Image credit (Eudora Tucker)

Francesca: What is the hardest thing about being a sustainable fashion designer?

Eudora: The most challenging aspect of being a sustainable designer is figuring out how to alter an existing garment. When you are locked into a design it is sometimes hard to come up with creative ways to change the garment to fit your new design. You have to use your imagination and become an out-of-the box thinker and really think about the techniques to use in order to execute your new design with the least amount of complication and in a timely manner.

Eudora Tucker’s Ode to Jean-Michele Jacket (Image credit: Eudora Tucker)

Francesca: What is your ultimate goal, or goals, as a designer in the fashion industry?

Eurora: I would like to continue creating one-of-a kind statement pieces and growing my fashion sustainability brand, Princess Arabia’s Atelier. I also plan to partner with environmental agencies in NYC to offer fashion sustainability workshops to teach others what they can do to reduce their carbon footprint through more mindful fashion practices. My ultimate goal is to travel around NYC and neighboring states to educate as many people as possible and bring awareness on how the fast fashion industry continues to proliferate the amount of waste in our landfills and how it is fueling the profound negative effects of climate change. This is my small way of giving back to the planet and carrying out my duty as a good global citizen.

Follow Eudora on Instagram: @princessarabia9

Eudora Tucker’s The Rainbow of it All Vest (Image credit: Eudora Tucker)

Are you a woman from a low-income community interested in starting a career in fashion? Apply to our Training Institute.

If you are interested in providing paid internships for their students write to us at: CS@UniversityofFashion.com

Are you a small or start-up clothing business? Apply to their Business Incubator. They provide services including manufacturing, technical assistance, and consulting for those who need it.

Want to volunteer? Sign up here. They’re always looking for folks to help as teacher’s assistants, guest speakers, graphic designers, special event coordinators, or fabric inventory sorters.

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To support their work in supporting striving women. Donate today.

JUNETEENTH: Celebrating African American Quilters & Creatives

Francesca Sterlacci - June 18, 2023 - Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Events, Fashion History, Fashion Innovation, Festival Season

(Image Credit: Louisville Black Creatives – Facebook.com)

Juneteenth marks the day when General Gordon Granger of the Union Army strolled into Galveston, Texas on June 19, 1865, to announce that the last of the 250,000 remaining enslaved people in the Confederacy were freed from the shackles of slavery, two years after the Emancipation Proclamation.

To celebrate Juneteenth, this week’s blogpost is dedicated to African Americans artisans, both past and present, who use their creativity to tell stories through the art of quilting. We will also highlight African American quilters and artisans who, through textiles and handcraftsmanship, are modern-day griots, these creatives are continuing the tradition of African tribal storytelling to preserve the genealogies and oral traditions of their culture.

Fashion has always held an important role in the evolution of mankind, whether to express status or as a vehicle for social change. But the art and craft of fashion, specifically quilting, has held an even deeper meaning for the African American community and is as almost as old as the history of America.

One of the first enslaved African women to be officially recorded in the colony of Virginia in 1619 was Angela (likely born in present-day Angola). Angela is considered one the ‘First Africans” and like many Black women to follow, were charged with spinning, weaving, sewing, and quilting on plantations for their enslavers, while often weaving their own family’s clothing to keep warm and survive.

Over time, some African American household slaves became highly skilled in creating quilts and while very few examples of these early quilts survived due to the heavy wear they received, what was initially a tool of oppression became an expression of liberation.

Hidden in Plain View by Jacqueline L. Tobin and Raymond G. Dobard

UNDERGROUND RAILROAD QUILT CODES

The Underground Railroad (UCRR) was a network of people and places that assisted southern slaves escape to free states in the North and Canada prior to the start of the Civil War in 1861. According to legend, a safe house along the UCRR was often indicated by a quilt hanging from a clothesline or windowsill. These quilts were embedded with a kind of code, so that by reading the shapes and motifs sewn into the design, an enslaved person on the run could know the area’s immediate dangers or even where to head next.

In the book entitled, Hidden in Plain View: A Secret Story of Quilts and the Underground Railroad, the authors reveal how enslaved men and women made encoded quilts and then used them to navigate their escape on the Underground Railroad. Quilts with patterns named “the Charleston Code,” “wagon wheel,” “tumbling blocks,” and “bear’s paw”, contained secret messages that helped direct slaves to freedom.

Example of a Charleston Code Quilt – helped navigate slaves to freedom via the Underground Railroad

When slaves made their escape, they used their memory of the quilts as a mnemonic device to guide them safely along their journey. For example: a bow tie meant “dress in disguise to appear of a higher status; a bear paw was an instruction to “follow an animal trail through the mountains to find water and food; and a log cabin warned “seek shelter now, the people here are safe to speak with”.

Example of a Log Cabin quilt with an embedded code to help slaves to freedom.

At the end of the Civil War, African American women continued telling their stories through quilting, maintaining the long-standing cultural significance and its profound roots of ‘woven’ resistance. For more on the history of African American quilting as folk-art visit: http://www.womenfolk.com/quilting_history/afam.html

HARRIET POWERS

Harriet Powers 1837-1910 (Image credit: Museum of Fine Arts Boston)

Born into slavery in Athens, Georgia in 1837, Harriet Powers created quilts once she was emancipated. She used quilting as a catalyst for change and to inspire conversations about race. Her storytelling quilts made use of appliqué techniques and the textiles of Western Africa and are notable for her ability to transmit, through the fabric, her religious faith depicting biblical stories, local events, and celestial occurrences. Powers debuted her first exhibit in 1886 at the Cotton States and International Expo.

For much of the 20^th century Powers was erased from the art historical canon, but today she is deservedly considered one of the most accomplished quilt makers of the 19^th century.

Only two of Powers’ story quilts have survived: the Bible Quilt which hangs in the Smithsonian Institution and her Pictorial Quilt which is on display at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston.

Harriet Powers – Bible Quilt circa 1886 (Image credit: Smithsonian Institution)

Weaving scraps together became a metaphor for threads of resilience stitched together to preserve remnants of culture, faith, and hope in the African American community. Though often not attributed with bringing the tradition of quilting to the U.S., Black women are among the originators of today’s needle and thread technique.

From navigating the Underground Railroad to telling a family’s story, quilts are more than an heirloom to African American families—they are an act of woven resistance.

Close-up of African American ‘Pine Burr’ quilt circa 1920 found in Selma, Alabama. For sale on 1^st Dibs $7,500

One of the most beautiful quilt patterns is the Pine Cone or Pine Burr, which is a three dimensional quilt made of overlapping triangles. These triangles are put in a circular pattern starting at the center, giving the look of a pinecone. The quilt pictured above was made by an African American of unknown provenance. It took weeks to make and was found in Selma, Alabama circa 1920. It is for sale on 1^st Dibs for $7,500.

QUILTERS OF GEE’S BEND

Gee’s Bend Quilters Jennie Pettway and Jorena Pettway, 1937 (Photo credit: Arthur Rothstein).

Among the most important quilt contributions to the history of art were made by quilters in the isolated African American hamlet of Gee’s Bend, Alabama in the 1930s. Gee’s Bend quilters developed a distinctive style and are known for their lively improvisations and geometric simplicity.

In 2003, 50 quilt makers founded the Gee’s Bend Collective, which is owned and operated by the women of Gee’s Bend and their work has been exhibited in museums across the country, the most notable in 2004 at the Whitney Museum of American Art.

Gee’s Bend quilters working a quilt 2005 (Photo credit: Wikipedia.com)

In 2015, Gee’s Bend quilters Mary Lee Bendolph, Lucy Mingo, and Loretta Pettway were joint recipients of a National Heritage Fellowship awarded by the National Endowment for the Arts, which is the United States government’s highest honor in the folk and traditional arts.

And in 2023, the Gee’s Bend quilters collaborated with generative artist Anna Lucia to create digital works of art on the blockchain in a project called Generations.

Quilt by Anna Lucia of Gees Bend Quilted physical NFT on a clothesline in Alabama 2023 (Image credit: rightclicksave.com)

FAITH RINGGOLD

Faith Ringgold in front of her quilt Tar Beach 1993 (Image credit: Wikipedia.com)

Faith Ringgold is an artist, activist, quilter, educator and author of numerous award-winning children’s books. Tar Beach, her first children’s book, based on a quilt of the same title, has won over twenty awards including the Caldecott Honor and the Coretta Scott King award for the best-illustrated children’s book of 1991. Ringgold has made a career-spanning commitment to social justice and equity through a variety of media including oil paintings, tankas, soft sculptures, story quilts and prints. If you are in LA, be sure to catch her show at the Jeffrey Deitch Gallery from May 20-August 12.

BISA BUTLER

Artist/quilter Bisa Butler – Quilting for the Culture (Image credit & video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P3_61nh3xo)

Bisa Butler has been called a modern-day Griot, but instead of using words to tell stories, she uses stitches and cloth. Her quilts have graced the covers of magazines, have been the subject of numerous exhibitions and she created the striking illustration for the book “Unbound,” the memoir of activist and Me Too movement founder Tarana Burke. Her show entitled “Bisa Butler: The World is Yours“, is currently showing in NYC from May 6 to June 30, 2023 at 18 Wooster Street. You will be dazzled! Here’s a link to the show info: https://deitch.com/new-york/exhibitions/bisa-butler-the-world-is-yours

Artist/Quilter Bisa Butler (Image credit: YouTube)

“In my work, I am telling the story— this African American side— of the American life. History is the story of men and women, but the narrative is controlled by those who hold the pen. My community has been marginalized for hundreds of years. While we have been right beside our white counterparts experiencing and creating history, our contributions and perspectives have been ignored, unrecorded, and lost. It is only a few years ago that it was acknowledged that the White House was built by slaves. Right there in the seat of power of our country African Americans were creating and contributing while their names were lost to history. My subjects are African Americans from ordinary walks of life who may have sat for a formal family portrait or may have been documented by a passing photographer. Like the builders of the White House, they have no names or captions to tell us who they were.” ~ Bisa Butler

AFRICAN AMERICAN CRAFT INITIATIVE

The African American Craft Initiative – a division of the Smithsonian Artisan Initiative (Photo credit folklife.si.edu)

The African American Craft (AACI) Initiative works to expand the visibility of African American artisans and ensure equitable access to resources. Established through a consultative dialogue process with African American makers and organizations, and the mainstream craft sector in the United States, AACI outlines concrete actions for sustainable change.

Through collaborative research, documentation, and public programming, the initiative builds upon the relationship between craft and community by amplifying and supporting the efforts of African American makers to sustain their craft practice.

QUILTING & THE FASHION INDUSTRY

A$AP Rocky and Rihanna at the Met Gala 2021 (Image credit: GraziaMagazine.com)

Quilting continues to provoke conversations and contemplations around identity, heritage, and healing within the African American Community. African textiles are often central to quilters and fashion designers at large.

To learn more about African textiles check out these UoF lessons:

UoF-West African Textiles Lessons

To learn more about quilting and various quilt patterns visit Quilt Index https://quiltindex.org

To find out where to purchase African fabrics visit: https://www.quiltafricafabrics.com/collections

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Celebrating LGBTQ+ Inclusivity: Fashion’s Everlasting Ally

Antonia Sardone - June 4, 2023 - Current Topics in Fashion, Trends

Jean Paul Gaultier’s fragrance in limited-edition Pride bottles. (Photo Credit: WWD)

June is Gay Pride month, a time to celebrate the diverse tapestry of sexual orientations and gender identities that make our world more beautiful. And, when it comes to embodying acceptance, self-expression, and the breaking of societal barriers, few industries have championed the cause as fervently as the fashion industry. This week’s blog post is dedicated to how fashion has been an unwavering ally to the LGBTQ+ community. We will shed light on some of the remarkable fashion designers who are activists for the gay and transgender community and how, through their efforts, are changing the world.

FASHION: A PLATFORM FOR INCLUSIVITY

American Eagle collaborates with Olivia Ponton for its 2023 Pride collection. (Photo Credit: WWD)

Fashion has long been a powerful vehicle for self-expression, acting as a mirror reflecting the collective spirit of society. Throughout history, fashion has played a pivotal role in dismantling gender norms and challenging societal conventions. From the legendary queer icons of the past, to the contemporary LGBTQ+ trailblazers, fashion has provided a canvas for diverse identities to express themselves boldly.

Many fashion designers have embraced their own LGBTQ+ identities and utilized their platforms to foster inclusivity. They do this by designing gender-neutral collections, featuring diverse models, and advocating for LGBTQ+ rights. Collectively, these designers have transformed the runway into a sanctuary of self-acceptance and celebration as well as in the media.

FASHION DESIGNERS LEADING THE WAY

LGBTQ+ Quotes for Pride Month. (Photo Credit: Hallmark Ideas)

As we honor the progress made during Gay Pride Month and beyond, we would like to celebrate these fashion warriors who have fearlessly used their art to uplift marginalized communities. Their efforts remind us that fashion is not just about clothing; it is a medium through which we can challenge social norms, spark conversations, and advocate for a world where everyone is embraced for who they are. Together, we can create a future where love and acceptance shine through every stitch and every design.

The world of fashion is renowned for its ability to push boundaries, challenge norms, and celebrate individuality. Within this vibrant landscape, there is a group of talented individuals who not only bring their innovative designs to life but also break barriers of gender and identity. Let’s delve into the fascinating world of LGBTQ+ fashion designers, whose creativity and resilience inspire us all. Here are a handful of designers that are bringing social change and activism the runway and beyond.

Marc Jacobs

Portrait of Marc Jacobs. (Photo Credit: Oyster Magazine)

Recognized for his distinctive style and unwavering commitment to inclusivity, Marc Jacobs stands as a prominent figure in the fashion industry. As a gay designer, he has continuously advocated for LGBTQ+ rights and used his platform to uplift queer voices. Jacobs’ designs exude an unapologetic individuality and celebrate the diversity of human experiences, breaking down barriers with each stitch.

Gogo Graham

Portrait of Gogo Graham. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

Gogo Graham is a rising transgender fashion designer who has been instrumental in challenging the fashion industry’s gender norms. Through her label, she creates stunning garments that embrace trans bodies and explore the beauty of gender identity. Graham’s designs serve as a visual manifesto, proving that fashion has the power to empower and uplift marginalized communities.

Palomo Spain

Portrait of Alejandro Palomo. (Photo Credit: Ssense Magazine)

Palomo Spain, helmed by Alejandro Gómez Palomo, is celebrated for its extravagant and gender-defying creations. With a focus on fluidity, Palomo Spain’s designs blur the lines between masculine and feminine, giving birth to a new era of androgynous fashion. As a gay designer, Palomo breaks free from societal expectations, embracing the limitless possibilities of self-expression.

Christian Siriano

Portrait of Christian Siriano. (Photo Credit: Elle)

Christian Siriano, widely recognized for his exquisite designs and his time on Project Runway, has consistently championed inclusivity in the fashion industry. He defies size, gender, and racial norms by featuring a diverse range of models in his runway shows. Siriano has also been an outspoken advocate for LGBTQ+ rights, using his influence to support organizations like the Human Rights Campaign. By actively engaging in social issues, he has proven that fashion can be a powerful force for positive change.

Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung makes a statement during his Fall 2017 runway show. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

Prabal Gurung is not only known for his stunning creations, but also for his unwavering commitment to social justice and inclusivity. As a proud member of the LGBTQ+ community, Gurung has used his brand to amplify the voices of marginalized groups. He launched a collection titled “Love Is Love” to support the LGBTQ+ community and has collaborated with organizations like The Trevor Project. Gurung’s advocacy extends beyond the runway, making him a true ally for equality.

Jeremy Scott

Portrait of Jeremy Scott. (Photo Credit: Vogue)

Jeremy Scott, the former creative director of Moschino, is celebrated for his bold, unconventional designs. He fearlessly challenges societal boundaries and norms through his work. Scott, who identifies as gay, has been a vocal advocate for LGBTQ+ rights, leveraging his platform to promote inclusivity. His designs often incorporate LGBTQ+ symbols and messages, sending a powerful message of acceptance and love. Scott’s unapologetic approach to self-expression has made him an inspiration for queer individuals around the world.

Ashish Gupta

Portrait of Ashish Gupta. (Photo Credit: British Vogue)

Ashish Gupta, an Indian-born British designer, is renowned for his glittering, vibrant creations. Gupta, who identifies as gay, uses fashion as a medium to celebrate diversity and challenge stereotypes. His collections often showcase LGBTQ+ affirming messages and promote acceptance and love. Gupta’s designs remind us that fashion can be a vehicle for change, one that sparks conversations and encourages us to embrace our authentic selves.

Harris Reed

Portrait of Harris Reed. (Photo Credit: Telegraph)

Harris Reed, a British-American designer who is the creative director for Nina Ricci, has become a trailblazer in the fashion industry, challenging conventional notions of gender and beauty. Reed’s designs often feature elaborate and gender-fluid creations, blending elements of traditional menswear and womenswear. Their work has gained recognition on international runways and has been embraced by celebrities like Harry Styles. Reed’s daring and imaginative designs reflect a vision of fashion that transcends boundaries.

FASHION IS HELPING TO CREATE A MORE ACCEPTING SOCIETY

During Pride month, Reebok is introducing its first genderless line of footwear and apparel. (Photo Credit: WWD)

Fashion designers have a unique platform that can influence cultural conversations and promote inclusivity. Through their creativity and unwavering commitment to LGBTQ+ rights, designers like Christian Siriano, Prabal Gurung, Jeremy Scott, and Ashish Gupta have become powerful advocates for change. Their voices resonate beyond the runways, inspiring a more accepting and equal society.

As we celebrate Gay Pride Month 2023, let us remember that fashion is not just about clothes; it’s a medium through which we can express our true selves and challenge societal norms. By continuing to support LGBTQ+ designers and embracing diversity on and off the runway, we can foster an environment of acceptance and love that transcends borders, colors, and identities.

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