Category "Bespoke Tailoring"

Back to school sale image $55 off a yearly subscription

UoF’s Back to School Sale: Get Your Own Private Tutor

Think of us as every student’s best-kept secret: your own private fashion tutor, available on demand.

Our mission is your success. Whether you’re a student or teacher at a high school or college—anywhere in the world—and you need support with curriculum development, class projects, or building your portfolio, we’re here for YOU.

Our 13 Different Lesson Disciplines: Beginner, Intermediate & Advanced

Access 550+ on-demand video tutorials across 13 fashion disciplines, all taught by experienced fashion professors and industry professionals:

Draping: daywear, athleisure, evening & bridal, swimwear, intimate apparel
Pattern Making: daywear, athleisure, evening & bridal, swimwear, intimate apparel
Sewing: machine & hand stitching, seam and hem finishes, zippers, couture techniques, tailoring, embroidery, leatherwork, and more
Fashion Drawing: figure drawing for men, women, and children; fabric rendering; design details; watercolor, pastels, and more
Knits: knitting, crocheting, and cut-and-sew knits
Menswear: measuring the male body and drafting bespoke patterns from measurements
CAD Art: Illustrator, Photoshop, Procreate, 3D design, AI fashion design, textile design
CAD Pattern Making: Tukatech pattern drafting and marker-making software
Accessories: handbags, small leather goods, shoe design
Product Development: starting a brand, adaptive fashion, tech design, flats, specs, tech packs, 3D design, AI fashion design
Childrenswear: global sizing and free kids’ pattern slopers for boys’ and girls’ wear
Fashion Business: start-up, retail, branding, fashion law, licensing, visual merchandising, and more
Lecture Series: adaptive design, costume history, sustainable design, color theory, trend forecasting, textiles, visual merchandising, and more

Special back-to-school offer

We typically run this promotion only once a year (during the holidays), but to help teachers and students get a head start, we’re offering $55 off our annual subscription:

Regular price: $220
Now: $165 with code TUTOR
Offer expires: October 1, 2026

Ready to elevate your fashion education? Use code TUTOR at checkout and start learning today.

If you are a school or group, we offer a free trial so that you can sample our content before taking advantage of our reduced rates for schools & groups.

Hurry, our offers expire October 1, 2026. Please note that the student discount promo code can only be used by teachers for their own personal use and not for use in the classroom. For our group subscription rates (5+ people) and to learn more about our free trials, scan the Group QR code above.

And just because we love every single fashionista out there, you don’t need to be a student or teacher to take advantage of our back to school promo, our sale is open to everyone!

University of Fashion Promo code - TUTOR. $55 off a yearly subscription Was $220 now $165. Off expires 10.1.2026

School’s back in session—and so are we!

Think of us as every student’s best-kept secret: your own private fashion tutor, available on demand.

What you get

Access 550+ on-demand video tutorials across 13 fashion disciplines, all taught by experienced fashion professors and industry professionals:

Draping: daywear, athleisure, evening & bridal, swimwear, intimate apparel
Pattern Making: daywear, athleisure, evening & bridal, swimwear, intimate apparel
Sewing: machine & hand stitching, seam and hem finishes, zippers, couture techniques, tailoring, embroidery, leatherwork, and more
Fashion Drawing: figure drawing for men, women, and children; fabric rendering; design details; watercolor, pastels, and more
Knits: knitting, crocheting, and cut-and-sew knits
Menswear: measuring the male body and drafting bespoke patterns from measurements
CAD Art: Illustrator, Photoshop, Procreate, 3D design, AI fashion design, textile design
CAD Pattern Making: Tukatech pattern drafting and marker-making software
Accessories: handbags, small leather goods, shoe design
Product Development: starting a brand, adaptive fashion, tech design, flats, specs, tech packs, 3D design, AI fashion design
Childrenswear: global sizing and free kids’ pattern slopers for boys’ and girls’ wear
Fashion Business: start-up, retail, branding, fashion law, licensing, visual merchandising, and more
Lecture Series: adaptive design, costume history, sustainable design, color theory, trend forecasting, textiles, visual merchandising, and more

Special back-to-school offer

We typically run this promotion only once a year (during the holidays), but to help teachers and students get a head start, we’re offering $55 off our annual subscription:

Regular price: $220
Now: $165 with code TUTOR
Offer expires: October 1, 2026

Ready to elevate your fashion education? Use code TUTOR at checkout and start learning today.

If you are a school or group, we offer a free trial so that you can sample our content before taking advantage of our reduced rates for schools & groups.

And just because we love every single fashionista out there, you don’t need to be a student or teacher to take advantage of our back to school promo, our sale is open to everyone!

The New Fashion Essential: Sewing Skills Are Reshaping Fashion Careers

Francesca Sterlacci - June 6, 2026 - Bespoke Tailoring, Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Business, Fashion Events, Fashion Innovation

University of Fashion offers 92 different sewing lessons from beginner to advanced. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

In an era dominated by fast fashion and disposable clothing, an unexpected shift is underway: sewing is back in style. Once considered a fading skill, the art of stitching, mending, and tailoring garments is experiencing a meaningful revival—both as a creative pursuit and as a viable, in-demand career path.

A June 7 article in The Wall Street Journal, “Vanishing Trade of Tailoring Revives,” highlights just how significant this resurgence has become. Tailors are now in such short supply that Nordstrom has partnered with the Fashion Institute of Technology to support a training program in custom alterations and tailoring. The demand is striking, the program received 190 applications for just 15 spots when it launched last fall.

The Data

Bureau of Labor Statistics Chart by State 2023

According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, there were approximately 18,500 tailors in the United States in 2024, representing nearly a 30 percent decline over the past decade. This shortage has hindered efforts to revive domestic apparel manufacturing and made it increasingly difficult for retailers such as Nordstrom, Men’s Wearhouse, and Jos. A. Bank to fill alterations roles. Dry cleaners are also struggling to find skilled professionals to meet customer demand.

Federal data shows that the annual wage for a dressmaker/tailor/custom sewer is between $22,000 – $60,000 based on skill level and location. However, with demand outpacing supply, skilled professionals are increasingly able to command higher wages and steady work in a growing market.

At the heart of this trend is a growing awareness of sustainability. Consumers are increasingly questioning the environmental cost of mass-produced clothing and are turning toward more responsible practices. Learning how to sew empowers individuals to extend the life of their garments, reduce waste, and make thoughtful choices about what they wear. Instead of discarding a beloved piece, people are choosing to repair, alter, or reinvent it—skills that lie at the core of sewing expertise.

AI Job Displacement leads to Sewing Careers

An excerpt from University of Fashion’s lesson, Pressing Tools & Techniques. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

As artificial intelligence reshapes the workforce and displaces certain jobs, new opportunities are beginning to surface. One notable shift is in the growing demand for tailoring services, fueled in part by the rise of GLP-1 weight loss medications and the resulting need for garment alterations. At the same time, more consumers are embracing resale fashion and choosing to modify existing pieces rather than replace them—creating fresh momentum and relevance for skilled tailors.

University of Fashion’s 9-part menswear tailoring series. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Where to Find Training?

Once a staple of high school education, home economics often served as a gateway to careers in tailoring, dressmaking, and fashion design. As these programs disappeared from school curricula and more women entered the corporate workforce, opportunities to learn sewing and garment construction in traditional classrooms declined significantly.

In response, a number of organizations have stepped in to fill this educational gap. The University of Fashion, founded in 2008, is the first and largest online fashion education platform with 550 video lessons, taught by industry professionals. Of the 500 lessons, 92 of the lessons are sewing specific and nine focus exclusively on menswear. Their lessons equip students with practical skills, enabling them to earn certificates, confidently enter the workforce and/or start their own fashion brand or bespoke/alterations business.

American Tailors & Sewing Association (ATSA) is based in Columbia, South Carolina, and focuses on establishing industry standards and providing professional development for tailors, alterations specialists, and garment construction professionals.

Association of Sewing & Design Professionals (ASDP) is based in Grandville, Michigan and supports people who sew or design professionally, offering education, certification, and networking for sewing and fashion-related careers.

American Sewing Guild (ASG) is a national nonprofit organization for people who enjoy sewing, with local chapters, online classes, and events focused on advancing sewing as both an art and a life skill.

Time to Put Out Your Shingle?

Available on Etsy: a personalized tailor shop hanging sign. (Image credit: Etsy)

Once seen as niche or old-fashioned professions, these roles are now essential in a fashion landscape that values customization and longevity. From hemming trousers to reshaping vintage finds, skilled professionals are in high demand. Bridal wear, in particular, continues to rely heavily on expert alteration specialists, while everyday consumers increasingly seek personalized fits that off-the-rack clothing simply cannot provide.

Ultimately, the return of sewing is more than a trend—it is a reflection of changing values. As consumers prioritize sustainability, individuality, and quality, the demand for skilled sewing professionals will only continue to grow. Whether pursued as a hobby or a career, learning to sew is no longer just a practical skill—it is a powerful statement about the future of fashion.

The Art & Anatomy of Handsewn Buttonholes

Francesca Sterlacci - April 11, 2026 - Bespoke Tailoring, Couture Techniques, How It's Made, Sewing, Tailoring

University of Fashion’s 3-part series on creating handsewn buttonholes. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Fashion has its own language—and nowhere is that more delightfully apparent than in the art of handsewn buttonholes. If you’ve ever felt that couture insiders are speaking in code when they discuss their sewing tools, consider this your glossary moment. Better yet, Andrew Curwen’s handsewn buttonhole video series serves as your guide, translating each term into a skill you can master with confidence.

Creating a truly refined handsewn buttonhole begins with a carefully selected toolkit: polyester thread for basting, silk buttonhole twist, gimp, hymo, a #7 sharps needle, and an open-top thimble. Each element plays a distinct role in achieving that crisp, elevated finish.

Buttonhole Twist
This is the star of the process—the thread used to form the dense blanket stitches that define the buttonhole’s edge. Strong, smooth, and slightly lustrous, silk buttonhole twist is the couture standard. Whether you choose a matching shade for subtlety or a contrasting color for emphasis, this thread carries both the structure and the visual impact.

Gimp
Gimp is a thicker thread that sits beneath the buttonhole stitches, giving them dimension and a beautifully raised profile. While finding an exact color match can be challenging, Andrew Curwen offers an ingenious solution in his three-part series: a method for creating perfectly matched gimp, ensuring both precision and polish.

Hymo
Hymo is a hair canvas interfacing that provides essential internal support. Available in various weights and in both fusible and non-fusible options, it reinforces the fabric layers, helping the buttonhole maintain its shape and durability over time.

#7 Sharps Needle
Sharps are versatile hand-sewing needles with a sharp point and a round eye, available in sizes 1 through 12. For buttonholes, a size 7 strikes the ideal balance—fine enough for precise, tight stitches, yet sturdy enough to handle multiple layers.

Open-Top Thimble
An open-top metal thimble protects your finger while allowing greater sensitivity and control. It helps push the needle cleanly through the fabric, making it an essential tool for the repetitive, controlled motions required in buttonhole work.

The Process

images of the handsewn buttonhole-making process

The steps for making a Straight Handsewn Buttonhole: 1) baste & mark the buttonhole before slitting the buttonhole opening, 2) Twist silk buttonhole thread to create gimp, 3) baste gimp to slit, 4) blanket-stitching the buttonhole, 5) bar tacking one edge, 6) finished buttonhole.

Mastering handsewn buttonholes is as much about understanding your tools as it is about technique. With the right materials—and expert guidance from Andrew Curwen—you can transform what seems like a meticulous detail into a signature mark of craftsmanship. In the end, these small, deliberate stitches speak volumes, elevating a garment from simply made to truly exceptional.

Not a UoF Subscriber? Watch our Video Previews

Click on the link to view our video previews: Handsewn Straight Buttonholes, Handsewn Rounded Buttonholesand Handsewn Keyhole Buttonhole.

A Master Class in Measuring the Female Body

Francesca Sterlacci - March 7, 2026 - Bespoke Tailoring, Draping, fashion Terminology, Pattern Making, Tailoring

UoF’s lesson on measuring 104 points of the female body. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

One of the greatest challenges our students confess to is mastering the art (and science!) of measuring the female body. Take one wrong measurement, and it’s fashion’s version of a domino effect—suddenly your pattern fits like it was made for a completely different species. Accurate measuring isn’t just important; it’s the difference between runway-ready and “what on earth happened here?”

Measuring Points Diagrams

UoF’s measuring points diagrams. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Our master class on how to measure an actual, living, breathing female body—the kind that moves, sighs, and occasionally checks her phone mid-measurement, comes with free downloadable diagrams to help with the process.

UoF’s measuring points diagrams. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

You’ll master the fine art of extracting every vital dimension needed for draping and pattern making (without losing your tape measure halfway through). No more guess work.

UoF’s measuring points diagrams. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Along the way, we’ll decode all those fancy anatomical terms the fashion industry loves, such as, front neck base, bust arc, apex and bust span.

Measuring Points Chart

An example of UoF’s 7-page body measuring points chart — a color-coded companion to the diagrams. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Think of our downloadable, color‑coded chart as the VIP pass to your measuring marathon, perfectly in step with the diagrams and packed with clear explanations for the placement of all 104 official points of measure. Yes, 104—because in fashion, precision is everything and your tape measure is basically training for its own endurance sport.

But There’s More

UoF’s Women’s Global Size Range Chart Sizes 2-18 and their European equivalents. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Our Women’s Global Size Chart is the extra perk you didn’t know you needed. It not only breaks down points of measure for US sizes 2–18, but also gives you the European size equivalents, so your patterns can country-hop as effortlessly as your wardrobe.

Finale

By the time you are done with this lesson, you will not only speak the fluent geometry of the female form, you will move through spec sheets and tech packs with the quiet confidence of someone who knows exactly where every millimeter goes—and why it matters.

The Quiet Elegance of Love

Francesca Sterlacci - February 7, 2026 - Bespoke Tailoring, Fashion Shows, Menswear, Milan Fashion Week, Tailoring

With Men’s Fall/Winter 2026/27 fashion week behind us, the season’s prevailing message was clear: softness is strength. Designers embraced unstructured tailoring, featherlight jackets, relaxed trousers, and oversized shirts and knits with fluid, rounded shoulders — silhouettes that favored ease over rigidity. One couldn’t help but see these trends as an unspoken tribute to Giorgio Armani, who passed away on September 4, 2025, at the age of 91.

Sergio Galeotti and Giorgio Armani co-founders of the Armani brand in 1975 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

When Armani died, the world mourned the loss of more than a designer — it lost a man who built an empire on subtlety, restraint, and human warmth. Yet those who knew him best understood that behind the measured confidence and quiet brilliance of his craft stood a constant, steady love: First with his co-founder Sergio Galeotti (1945-1985) and then with Leo Dell’Orco, his “right‑hand man” and now creative director of Armani menswear.

Leo Dell’Orco and Giorgio Armani (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

For over half a century, Leo was not only Armani’s partner but also his closest collaborator, the man who understood that Giorgio’s minimalist perfection was never cold — it was intimate. Their relationship was private, even quiet, yet it informed everything the Armani brand became. Together, they cultivated a vision rooted in emotional intelligence — clothes that whispered, never shouted; tailoring that respected the body, not the ego.

Leo, who began working with Armani in the 1970s, became the silent architect of the designer’s most enduring codes. Where Giorgio articulated purity and proportion, Leo safeguarded the soul of the brand. Their dialogue — both personal and creative — was one of continuous refinement. Every softened shoulder, every whisper of silk, every measured tone of taupe felt like a conversation between them, an unspoken understanding turned tangible.

Armani Fall/Winter 2026/27 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

Now, as the world looks toward the Spring 2026–2027 menswear collection — the first conceived entirely under Leo’s direction since Armani’s passing — the clothes themselves feel like a eulogy written in fabric. Reviewers have called it a “silent ode” to Armani, but perhaps it is better understood as a love letter — one from Leo to the man who taught the world that elegance is not about attention, but about affection.

Armani Fall/Winter 2026/27 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

The collection avoids spectacle. Instead, it returns to Armani’s earliest language: clean linen blazers, sculpted trousers, muted desert tones, and that unmistakable sense of ease. There are hints of mourning — a softness in the cut, a delicacy in the color gradients, as if the garments are woven with memory. Yet amid the restraint, there is light: glimpses of hope, renewal, and simple devotion.

Giorgio Armani 2025 (Image credit: giorgioarmani Instagram)

In the end, Armani’s greatest creation may not have been a jacket or a silhouette, but a life lived alongside two people who shared his understanding of beauty — that quiet confidence and serenity born not from fame, but from love. The Spring 2026–2027 season stands as an eloquent testament to that belief: that love, like great design, endures through form, line, and time.

BUTTONED UP: The Surprisingly Wild World of Buttons

Francesca Sterlacci - January 17, 2026 - Bespoke Tailoring, Sewing, Tailoring

Buttons come in all kinds of shapes: flat, rimmed, dome, half ball, full ball, tubular, triangular, even square. Other types of buttons go by the names: French bevel, shank, fisheye, slotted well, English rim and double dome. (Image credit: University of Fashion)

Buttons: Tiny Heroes of Fashion

Let’s be honest—most of us never give buttons a second thought. They’re just… there, doing their tiny, thankless job of keeping our clothes from falling off. But behind every crisp shirt and snug waistband lies a world of button drama you probably never knew existed! From their materials and sizes to the mysterious art of sewing them on, buttons are more complex than you’d expect.

In fact, they are SEW important that we decided that buttons deserve their moment in the spotlight. Yep, we went there—an entire 7-part series dedicated to the unsung heroes of fashion: buttons and buttonholes. This blog is a teaser for what you’ll learn at UoF about these Mighty Midgets.

There are two basic types of buttons: Holed and Shank. A holed button may have two, three or four holes. A Shank button has one loop on the back. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Button Materials – Buyer Beware

Buttons can be made from just about anything the imagination can dream up, however, you must remember that clothes containing buttons will need to be either laundered or dry cleaned and therefore buttons should be tested. Sometimes button color can bleed onto fabric, or buttons crack during the drycleaning process or even melt when hit with a hot iron. Therefore, always test your button choice.

Examples of natural material buttons (Image credit: Sewing: Beginner Techniques book by Francesca Sterlacci, Laurence King Publishing).

Buttons are made from natural or synthetic materials — seashells, coconut shells — or synthetics like your grandma’s old bingo chips if inspiration strikes — but I repeat… your garment will eventually need to face the horrors of a washing machine or dry cleaner. That’s when untested buttons start to rebel. Colors bleed, plastics melt faster than an ice cream cone in Palm Springs, and cracks appear where creative genius once shone. Moral of the story? Don’t trust a button until it’s passed the laundry test.

Examples of synthetic material buttons (Image credit: Sewing: Beginner Techniques book by Francesca Sterlacci, Laurence King Publishing).

Button Sewing Tools

When it comes to stitching buttons, a little planning goes a long way, unless you’re into the kind of chaos that has buttons flying off in public. You’ll need to decide whether to use standard sewing thread or the heavyweight champion of the thread world. The latter is perfect for those serious coats and jackets that don’t mess around, because nobody wants a button giving up mid-winter.

Examples of thread detangling tools (Image credit: University of Fashion).

To keep your thread from turning into a rebellious knot monster, give it a quick spa treatment first — run it across a little beeswax or Thread Magic to smooth and strengthen it. For bonus points, press it with a warm iron to melt away any sticky residue (and to remind it who’s boss).

Choose a #5 Quilting/Betweens needle for button-sewing, it is shorter and easier to use than a #5 Sharps needle. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

When it comes to sewing on buttons, reach for a #5 Quilting/Betweens needle, it’s the compact sports car of needles: shorter, zippier, and way easier to handle than the longer #5 Sharps when navigating those tiny stitches.

Button-Sewing Strategies

You’d think sewing on a button would be a five-minute job. Ha! Think again. A four-hole button is basically a choose-your-own-adventure story in miniature — do you go vertical, horizontal, zigzag, or full drama with an X?

4-Hole Button-sewing Patterns: Vertical, Horizontal, Zigzag and X (Image credit: University of Fashion).

And if you really want to show off, grab a contrast thread so everyone knows your button isn’t just functional… it’s a fashion statement.

Examples of contrast thread for buttonholes & button-stitching (Image credit: University of Fashion).

Button Sizing

Back in the eighteenth century, German button makers got fancy with their measurements and came up with the term for measuring buttons, “ligne”. The idea was simple — if you fold a round candle wick flat (because apparently, everyone was doing that in their spare time), voilà — that’s your unit of measurement! One ligne equals 1/40th of an inch, or roughly .025 of an inch (.635 mm) if you’re more of a math person than a candle-folding enthusiast. Today, buttons are measured using a gauge device or a chart.

Examples of button chart and gauge devices for measuring button sizes. (Image credit: University of Fashion).

University of Fashion’s 7-part Button Series

Ready to dive into the riveting world of buttons and buttonholes? Discover why size does matter, how to choose the perfect button, how to line them up like a pro, and the surprisingly dramatic difference between sewing them by hand and by machine—all in our unmissable series!

Click the links below to view our lesson previews on buttons & buttonholes or sign up to UoF and see the full video library of these and 545 other fashion how-to videos:

Intro to Buttons & Buttonholes

Sewing Buttons: Shank & 4-Hole Thread Shank

Handmade Bound Buttonhole

Machine-Made Buttonholes: Straight & Keyhole

Handsewn Straight Buttonhole

Handsewn Rounded Buttonhole

Handsewn Keyhole Buttonhole

Top 6 Must See Fashion Exhibitions in 2025

Annabella Lawlor - August 4, 2025 - Bespoke Tailoring, Costume Exhibitions, Current Topics in Fashion, Fashion Events, Fashion History, Field Trip

Paul Poiret: Fashion is a Feast at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, in Paris, France (Image credit: Christophe Dellière for the Musée des Arts décoratifs – www.madparis.fr)

As summer comes to a close, the seasons change, and so do global exhibitions. Museums around the world carry some of the most significant artifacts in textile history. Gallery exhibitions represent a moment in time, a reflection on the past that transports crowds into temporally defying spaces. Working to preserve pieces as time works against their construction, museums beautifully conserve garments as art pieces themselves, detailing the history of expression through their design and function. Here are some fashion exhibitions, current and upcoming, that are worth visiting this year, beginning with what’s on now:

Paul Poiret: Fashion is a Feast at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, in Paris, France – Until January 11, 2026

Home to one of the largest collections of Paul Poiret works, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris pays homage to the designer’s extensive history in the fashion world. Featuring a diverse range of his creations—clothing, accessories, and decorative art—the show showcases his boundless creativity, both in medium and form. Often regarded as a significant influence in popularizing the corset-less free silhouette, Poiret’s designs reflected the spirited, charismatic, and theatrical essence of the early twentieth century. With his disregard for constrictive clothing, the sumptuous drapery of his silky silhouettes remains resonant in today’s cultural sphere.

Superfine: Tailoring Black Style at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, in New York City – Until October 26, 2025

Superfine: Tailoring Black Style at The Metropolitan Museum of Art (Image credit: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, metmuseum.org)

On the first Monday of May, celebrities walked the Metropolitan steps in sleek tailoring while attending the annual fundraiser for the Costume Institute. Beneath the spectacle of flashing cameras and timed poses, the Met Gala also marked the opening of the Institute’s new exhibition, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style. One of the most finely curated shows to date.

The powerful exhibition chronicles the evolving image of dandyism as a reclamation of power following the systemic oppression of American enslavement. With a collection ranging from zoot suits to velvet overcoats to modern casualwear, Superfine draws attention to the unrecognized historical importance of black garmenting. Its thoughtful arrangement of historical garments beside their contemporaries wonderfully displays the sharp grandeur and overwhelming influence of black dandyism.

Leigh Bowery! at Tate Modern, in London, UK – Until August 31, 2025

Leigh Bowery! at Tate Modern, London ((Image credit: Temilade Adelaja for the guardian.com)

Outlandish. Psychedelic. Kitsch. Artist and designer Leigh Bowery was boundary-breaking. The Tate Modern’s recent retrospective chronicles the many works of the late Bowery. In exploring the mediums of performance art, music, and fashion, his status as a remarkable artist and Queer icon came from his defiance of normalcy and exuberant vitality. The show pairs his clothing designs with their accompanying mediums, allowing his creations to thus become extensions of performance themselves. The bold to the point of tacky, exaggerated to the point of gross, Leigh Bowery!remarkably captures the essence of these pieces: that life is a stage for the many characters in which our body takes form.

Later this year

Virgil Abloh: The Codes at the Grand Palais, in Paris, France. September 30th – October 10, 2025

Virgil Abloh: The Codes at the Grand Palais, Paris (Image credit: virgilabloh.com)

September 30th marks two dates: the opening of the design retrospective Virgil Abloh: The Codes, and the day that would have been Abloh’s 45th birthday. Drawing from the 20,000-object collection, The Virgil Abloh Archive chronicles his accomplishments as a multidisciplinary artist, creative director, and cultural figure. Located in Paris, the city where he carried out much of his work, the approaching Grand Palais exhibition highlights his unending impact on the zeitgeist of modern menswear. With over 1,000 sketches and prototypes of his clothing and shoe designs to be shown to the public, The Codes will soon tell the story of Virgil Abloh’s creative process and his vast legacy in contemporary design.

Dirty Looks: Desire and Decay in Fashion at Barbican Art Gallery in London, UK. September 25, 2025 – January 25, 2026

Robert Wun, Yellow Rose, Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024. (Image Credit: Ellen Sampson for Barbican.org.uk)

The average clothing consumer often thinks of dirt as an unwanted stain upon one’s purchases. But to some, it becomes the spirit of the garment. It certainly embodies the spirit of the Barbican Art Gallery’s upcoming show. Dirty Looks questions the perceived objectivity of “beauty” by platforming material decay and destruction. Featuring clothing from over sixty designers, the curators set out to explore the diverse interpretations of weathered objects. Some pieces incorporate raw materials as a return to the garments’ origin from Earth, while others explore the fallibility of meticulous construction through dishevelment. Dirty Looks navigates the relationship between body and Earth, grounding the viewer through textile deconstruction.

Hope you take time to visit a few of these exhibitions, the inspiration is boundless.

Bespoke Tailoring: A Lost Art?

Francesca Sterlacci - May 18, 2025 - Bespoke Tailoring, Current Topics in Fashion, Menswear, Tailoring

Last week’s social media explosion of images from the MET Gala, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style, raised the question, “what truly is the state of bespoke tailoring today?”

In this week’s blog, I’ll delve into the art of bespoke tailoring and explore how, thanks to events like the MET exhibition, and the passion of some very skilled craftspeople, it is far from becoming a relic of the past.

The world of bespoke menswear tailoring is rich with tradition, artistry, and innovation. Whether you’re seeking the timeless elegance of Savile Row, the soft tailoring of Naples, or the contemporary flair of modern ateliers, there are standout tailors across the globe who consistently deliver exceptional craftsmanship and personalized service. Here are some of the finest bespoke tailors for men (and women), each offering a unique approach to sartorial excellence.

Huntsman & Sons (Savile Row)

Co head cutter at Huntsman Dario Carnera

Dario Carnera, Co-Head Cutter at Huntsman London. (Image credit HuntsmanSavileRow.com)

Huntsman & Sons is one of Savile Row’s most storied houses, celebrated for its structured, clean lines and impeccable British tailoring. Their heritage dates back to 1849, and they have dressed royalty, celebrities, and discerning gentlemen worldwide. Huntsman’s signature one-button jacket and strong silhouette set it apart, making it a top choice for those seeking classic English refinement. According to Dario Carnera, Co-Head Cutter, “More than just experience, crafting a bespoke suit is also about having the cutters’ ‘rock of eye“, referring to a process of making clothes that relies on the eye — that is, feeling — more than measurements.

Oswald Boateng (Savile Row)

Oswald Boateng- Couture bespoke tailor (Image credit: OzwaldBoateng.com)

Since the early 1980s, Ozwald Boateng has championed the idea that tailoring is more than a craft. It is identity. It is power. It is heritage. From the streets of London to the ateliers of Savile Row, Boateng brought a fresh perspective to classic British tailoring. He introduced bold colours, intricate linings, and a modern silhouette that spoke to a new generation. For the first time, the suit became a symbol not only of style but also of personal and cultural pride. In 1995, he became the first Black tailor to open a store on Savile Row, breaking boundaries and setting a new standard for inclusion and creativity in British fashion. His work attracted a global clientele—from Hollywood icons to heads of state—each drawn to the idea that a suit could tell a story far beyond fabric and thread. On May 13th 2025, Angeline Jolie announced a designer residency for Boateng at her fashion studio, Atelier Jolie, in Manhattan.

Rubinacci (Naples)

Rubinacci is based in Naples (Image credit: Ribinacci.com)

Founded by Gennaro Rubinacci in 1932, Rubinacci is synonymous with Neapolitan tailoring, offering a softer, more relaxed fit that’s both comfortable and stylish. Their expertise in lightweight construction and vibrant styling appeals to those who want Italian flair without sacrificing sophistication. Rubinacci’s strength lies in its ability to blend tradition with personality, making each suit a true reflection of its wearer. By 1962, his son Mariano took the helm and today his grandson Luca Rubinacci is creative director.

Cifonelli (Paris)

Cifonelli bespoke suits are made entirely by hand in their Paris workshop overseen by Lorenzo and Massimo Cifonelli. (Image credit: Cifonelli.com)

Founded in 1880 by Guiseppe Cifonelli in Rome, the brand later established itself in Paris. Cifonelli is revered for its Parisian elegance, characterized by a unique shoulder construction and meticulous finishing. The brand combines French finesse with Italian softness resulting in garments that are both structured and supremely comfortable. Their bespoke suits can be priced up to $8,000.

B&Tailor (Seoul)

Chad Park of B&Tailor fitting a bespoke suit (Image credit” B&Tailor Instagram)

B&Tailor was founded in 1980 by Jung Yul Park and quickly made a name for himself for his blend of classic and contemporary bespoke tailoring, executed with precision by skilled Korean artisans. The house is known for its flattering cuts, superb craftsmanship, and now, under the direction of Park’s sons Chad and Chang, deliver bespoke quality to a younger, style-conscious clientele.

JB Clothiers (Los Angeles)

image if Jerry Bakhchyan of JB Clothiers

Jerry Bakhchyan owner/founder of JB Clothiers Los Angeles (Image credit: JBClothiers.com)

JB Clothiers was founded in 1997 by Jerry Bakhchyan, an immigrant who came to this country with a dream to build a lasting legacy-a family business that not only reflects his heritage but also his love for creating impeccably tailored clothing. JB Clothiers offers a highly personalized bespoke experience in Los Angeles, using high-end imported fabrics and meticulous tailoring. Their reputation for perfection and attentive service makes them a standout for those seeking custom suits in the U.S. Clients praise the fit and finish, and the shop’s modern approach is ideal for anyone wanting a blend of tradition and contemporary style.

Rishabh Manocha (New York)

NYC-based bespoke tailor & UoF instructor, Rishabh Manocha (Image credit: @kirktruman)

University of Fashion is proud and fortunate to have NYC-based bespoke tailor Rishabh Manocha, the creator of our 13-part menswear series, whose passion and respect for bespoke craftsmanship has made him one of UOF’s most popular instructors. Rishabh established his eponymous label in 2017. An alum of Parsons School of Design and Central Saint Martins, he credits his education with the tailors on Savile Row for the technical soundness that complements his conceptual designs. Rishabh is considered one of New York’s promising, new sustainable tailors.

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Category "Bespoke Tailoring"

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Top 6 Must See Fashion Exhibitions in 2025

Paul Poiret: Fashion is a Feast at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, in Paris, France – Until January 11, 2026

Superfine: Tailoring Black Style at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, in New York City – Until October 26, 2025

Leigh Bowery! at Tate Modern, in London, UK – Until August 31, 2025

Later this year

Virgil Abloh: The Codes at the Grand Palais, in Paris, France. September 30th – October 10, 2025

Dirty Looks: Desire and Decay in Fashion at Barbican Art Gallery in London, UK. September 25, 2025 – January 25, 2026

Hope you take time to visit a few of these exhibitions, the inspiration is boundless.

Bespoke Tailoring: A Lost Art?

There are many more bespoke establishments such as Anderson & Sheppard, Henry Poole, Gieves & Hawkes, can you name more?

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