Back to bodice basics

- - Draping, Pattern Making

Are you curious how bridal designers get such a spot-on fit in the bodice of a gown? Take a look at the recent Bridal Fall 2016 offerings from Carolina Herrera, Anne Barge and Lela Rose in the header above. Then, wonder no more.

This week’s two new videos not only go hand-in-hand, but have been deemed by U of F founder, Francesca Sterlacci as, “instructional sloper videos that will be used for tons of designs.” She goes on to say,  “These slopers are CRITICAL to anyone’s fashion sloper library.” With an endorsement like that, we have deemed these basic building blocks as blog worthy.

Introducing Side Bust Dart Bodice with Back Neck Dart and Transfer Side Bust Bodice Drape to Paper-Oaktag – two videos that will take you back to basics and serve as either a primer in draping and transferring a drape to paper OR a wonderful refresher of the attention to detail necessary when creating slopers that will be the basis of many designs to come.

First things first. Learn how to prepare your dress form and your muslin blocks when draping the front and back of a bodice sloper with a back neck and waist dart.

Then, learn how to transfer your draped side bust bodice muslin to paper and then to oaktag, so that you will be able to use this block for your pattern making projects or to create blouses, dresses or any other styles that you can imagine. You will learn how to properly true the bodice on paper and then how to transfer it to oaktag block or sloper.

The beauty of these two bodice lessons used in conjunction with each other is that once mastered, you will not only have a foundation block for many other pattern making lessons, but you will be ready to tackle various ways of manipulating your front bust and waist darts to create a multitude of designs.

For a sneak peak into just several of the possibilities when transferring darts, take a look at Center Front Waist Dart w/Scoop Neckline, Pivot Front Shoulder Dart to One Waist Dart, or Pivot Front Shoulder Dart to Side Seam.

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Kara Laricks is a regular contributor to the University of Fashion. She’s also a New York based women's wear and accessories designer. As the first winner of NBC's Fashion Star, Kara has designed collections for H&M, Macy's and Saks Fifth Avenue. Her masculine meets feminine line, Kara Laricks, debuted at New York Fashion Week in 2012 and her S/S 2013 collection sold exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue. Kara's designs have been featured on the Today Show and HBO's True Blood as well as covered in Women's Wear Daily and on Kara holds Master's degrees in both Curriculum and Instruction from the University of Kansas and in Fashion Design from the Academy of Art in San Francisco. An educator turned designer, Kara is dedicated to supporting emerging designers and inspiring others to follow where dreams lead.