I call myself a “bespokesman,” and am a protege of fifth-generation Savile Row master tailor, Rory Duffy. Together we create handcrafted menswear. I am also a contributing menswear instructor at University of Fashion. In this blog post, I would like to take the opportunity to share my passion for merging old-world techniques with modern day design.
The term “bespoke” means something that is ‘spoken for you.’ In fashion, the cloth, the cut, and the craftsmanship are cohesively tied together to create a garment that not only lasts a lifetime but also embodies the true character of the wearer.
A detailed measurement chart, followed by observations of the eye that neither the Perkins devices nor the inch tape can fully capture, are taken of every client to ensure optimal fit and comfort. After a few fittings in toile and then shell fabric, the garment is rendered complete.
A fully handcrafted suit takes anywhere from sixty to eighty hours to construct with at least 3,000 hand stitches.
OUR DESIGN PROCESS
What makes us singular is our approach to the design process. Think of walking into an Armani store and having Mr. Armani create something for you on the spot. The entire commission is both driven by craft and a sublime understanding of design, which afford garments freshness and timelessness.
In educator/author Joanne Endwistle’s words, “Manocha endeavours to deliver clothing as a situated bodily practice. And, it cannot be done without the marriage of age-old tailoring and contemporary design.”
The virtues of the method don’t stop there. Through the deployment of the process, we save on cloth, trims and sample runs. The carbon footprint of the garment is thus minimal. The close-knit supply chain ensures judicious usage of resources. And, the product, shaped and finished by hand, lasts exponentially longer than one off the rack.
Also, we offer our clients the option to use deadstock fabric from heritage mills to minimize wastage. This way, an entire supply chain thrives with a focus on craft, design and circular systems-based thinking.
For University of Fashion, I have created 12 menswear lessons (more to follow in the future) that range from learning about men’s body measuring points to drafting a full set of slopers, including upper body, sleeve and trousers, as well as how to draft a jacket, a shirt and a hoodie.