Announcing Our New Lesson: Drafting Bell Bottoms

image of drafting a bell bottom pant

To watch University of Fashion’s lesson preview click: Drafting a Women’s Bell Bottom Pant (Image credit: UniversityofFashion.com)

When I think of bell bottoms, I think of the 60s & early 70s, hippies and Cher. Distinguishing themselves from their close relative, flared pants, bell bottoms widen dramatically at the knee, creating a bell-like shape at the bottom. 
Sonny & Cher, Cher wearing striped bell bottom pants
Cher, of Sonny & Cher (circa 1960s), wearing striped bell bottom pants. (Image credit: Wix.com)

History of Bell Bottoms

Image of Cracker Jack icon: Sailor Jack

Cracker Jack’s mascots Sailor Jack and his dog Bingo (drawn by Andrew Loomis) were introduced in 1916 and helped popularize bell bottoms. (Pinterest.com)

Bell-bottoms have long been synonymous with sailors in the U.S. Navy, in fact, did you know that their service dress uniforms are still called “cracker jacks”, based off of the 1916 mascot of the caramel-colored popcorn called Cracker Jacks?

Other references to bell bottoms are Frank Sinatra and Gene Kelly dancing and singing in the 1945 musical Anchors Aweigh. During World War II, songwriter Moe Jaffe even reworked the lyrics of a bawdy 19th-century English sea shanty into “Bell Bottom Trousers,” a song about a woman’s love for her sailor, who wore “bell bottom trousers, coat of navy blue.”

Flower power bell bottom pants by Badinka1970s Flower Power bell bottom pants (Badinka.com)

Bell bottoms went right from the 60s hippies right into the disco 70s. There seemed no limit as to how wide the bell would go, especially when princess seams were added to the pant legs.  The last significant resurgence of bell bottom pants occurred during the Spring/Summer 2023 fashion season, as evidenced by their prominent presence on the runways of New York Fashion Week (NYFW) in September 2022. Overall, bell bottoms have cycled in and out of fashion over the decades, but their latest return to prominence reflects a broader trend that embraces retro styles, particularly influenced by the Y2K revival that began around 2019. And to quote a 60s Sonny & Cher song, The Beat Goes On.

 

 

 

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Headshot of Francesca Sterlacci

Francesca Sterlacci is the CEO of University of Fashion (UoF) which she founded in 2008 as the first on-demand online fashion video library bringing the art and craft of fashion design and business to schools, libraries, organizations and the general public. As owner of her eponymous label for ten years, her collection sold in fine stores such as Bergdorf Goodman, Saks, Barneys and Nordstrom. As a professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology for 11 years, she became Chair of the Fashion Design Department where she initiated the complete revision of their AAS and BFA degree programs, as well as wrote three certificate programs: Leather Fashion Design, Outerwear and Haute Couture. Francesca has also taught graduate level fashion design at the Academy of Art University San Francisco for six years, both on site and online. Her publishing accomplishments include: Leather Apparel Design, the Historical Dictionary of the Fashion Industry (First and Second Editions), the A-Z of the Fashion Industry, Leather Fashion Design and a 3-volume beginner series on Draping, Pattern Making and Sewing designed to complement the UoF lessons. She has also made literary contributions to both the Encyclopedia of Clothing & Fashion and You Can Do It! The Merit Badge Handbook for Women. Francesca holds an AAS, BA and an MSEd (master’s degree in higher education).