Leather Sewing Techniques - Part 3 - University of Fashion

Leather Sewing Techniques – Part 3

Leather Sewing Techniques – Part 3

Leather Sewing Techniques Part 3 is the continuation of our leather series where we demonstrate the process of sewing a stylish leather jacket designed by New York manufacturer Andrew Marc.

Some of the things you will learn in this lesson are how to sew a placket front, how to set a collar and a separating zipper and how to make belt loops. Techniques learned in this lessons can be applied to any leather garment.

Once you master these techniques, you will want to move on to Leather Sewing Techniques Part 4.

Module Description Step
1 Leather Sewing Tools & Tips 1-2
2 Setting Waistband 1-6
3 Front Zipper 1-6
4 Belt Loops & Collar 1-6
5 Attach Right Front Facing 1-2
6 Join Collar & Waistband 1-8
7 Attach Left Front Zipper 1-3
8 Back Neck & Left Side Facing 1-8
9 Pressing the Jacket Edges 1-8
10 Topstitching the Jacket Edges 1-4
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MODULE 1 • Leather Sewing Tools & Tips

Step Description
1 This lesson is a continuation of our series of how to construct this Andrew Marc leather jacket. The series started with our lesson on How to Sort and Cut Leather followed by our lesson on how to Interface and Stabilize the seams of the jacket before sewing. In Leather Sewing Techniques Part 3, we will demonstrate how to sew the waistband, zipper, and collar of the jacket.
2 When sewing leather there are several tips to consider:

——-Tools & Tips When Sewing Leather—–

  1. Sewing Machine
    • For this lesson we are using an industrial walking foot machine to assemble the leather jacket pieces.
    • Another option is an industrial bottom-feed lockstitch machine, though it may not be able to handle thicker leather layers.
    • If you are using a home sewing machine be sure that it can handle the weight and thickness of your leather layers otherwise you could seriously damage your machine.
  2. Thread
    • Use either a polyester core spun or a bonded nylon thread when sewing leather and suede. Recommended brands include Coats & Clark, Gütermann, Gunzetal and A & E.
    • Seams: a fine, yet strong thread is used on the top and in the bobbin of the machine when assembling a leather or suede garment. The recommended size is a Tex40/TKT 80 thread.
    • Topstitching: A strong and thicker thread is used on top of the machine only. The recommended size is a Tex105/TKT 30 thread.
  3. Stitch Length
    • Seams – set your sewing machine’s stitch length for 7 stitches per inch. If you make more stitches per inch that 7, you will run the risk of tearing the leather at the stitching line.
    • Topstitching – you can keep you stitch length at 7 stitches per inch, the same as for your seam stitching, or you can go for 5 stitches per inch, for a more dramatic effect.

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