Leather Sewing Techniques - Part 4 - University of Fashion

Leather Sewing Techniques – Part 4

Leather Sewing Techniques – Part 4

Leather Sewing Techniques Part 4 is the last lesson in our series on how to sew a leather jacket designed by New York manufacturer Andrew Marc.

In this lesson you will learn how to sew the collar belt and attach the lining to the jacket. You will also learn how set a leather sleeve with a sleeve header and shoulder pad, as well as how to use a snap setter tool to set the jacket’s snaps.

All of the techniques that you will earn in this lesson can be applied to all kinds of leather garments.

Module Description Step
1 Leather Sewing Tools & Tips 1-2
2 Collar Belt 1-6
3 Sleeve Lining & Zipper Prep 1-3
4 Sleeve Topstitch, Zipper & Lining 1-8
5 Sleeve Cap Decorative Stitch 1-4
6 Joining the Sleeve Seam & Lining 1-4
7 Sleeve Setting 1-4
8 Tacking the Facing 1-3
9 Sleeve Header & Shoulder Pad 1-3
10 Jacket Lining 1-5
11 Joining Lining to Hem 1-4
12 Snap Setting 1-3
13 Pressing the Jacket 1-9
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MODULE 1 • Leather Sewing Tools & Tips

Step Description
1 Leather Sewing Techniques Part 4 is the last in our series on how to sew this Andrew Marc leather jacket. Our leather series started with How to Sort and Cut Leather, and then how to Interface and Stabilize Seams, followed by Leather Sewing Techniques, 1-3.
2 When sewing leather there are several tips to consider:

——-Tools & Tips When Sewing Leather———

  1. Sewing Machine
    • For this lesson we are using an industrial walking foot machine to assemble the leather jacket pieces.
    • Another option is an industrial bottom-feed lockstitch machine, though it may not be able to handle thicker leather layers.
    • If you are using a home sewing machine be sure that it can handle the weight and thickness of your leather layers otherwise you could seriously damage your machine.
  2. Thread
    • Use either a polyester core spun or a bonded nylon thread when sewing leather and suede. Recommended brands include Coats & Clark, Gütermann, Gunzetal and A & E.
    • Seams: a fine, yet strong thread is used on the top and in the bobbin of the machine when assembling a leather or suede garment. The recommended size is a Tex40/TKT 80 thread.
    • Topstitching: A strong and thicker thread is used on top of the machine only. The recommended size is a Tex105/TKT 30 thread.

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